Sealed room cooling question

WeedFreak78

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
mrblu said:
If you are running 3600 watts in a 12x8x8 room would a 16000 btu portable dual hose ac be able to keep Temps around 90 if the hoods are all opened and not being air cooled with a fan pushing air from another room. Trying to get co2 running but the air is coming in and dissipating my co2 too fast went through 40 lbs in 6 days. Besides that the room is sealed and I thought the lights where air tight but apparently not.

I'm using the big king cobra reflectors but they seem to leak air really bad when air is being pushed through them even when I tape around them they leak around the glass.

So tldr version can a 16000 btu ac keep 3600 watts of lighting at 85 to 90 degrees for co2 with the hoods open in a 12x8x8 room.
Click to expand...
I'm confused are they or aren't they air cooled? Asuming they ARE cooled, If you're pushing air through the hoods you shouldn't be losing CO2 through them. The hoods would end up being pressurized, so there would be no way for CO2 to get into them and get sucked out. You could put the lights on their own cooling circuit, pull air from outside the room and then exhaust it out of the room so it's not interacting with room air at all. Unless I'm misunderstanding everything....
 
chuck estevez

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
mrblu said:
And IL probably do just one room because my veg room is only 1800 watts
Click to expand...
just run that portable in veg, don't have to worry about smell to much.
I run a sealed room with 3000 watts open bulbs. and I go thru a 20lb tank@ 1200ppms over 45 days
@1500ppms, i get 30 days
 
M

mrblu

Well-Known Member
WeedFreak78 said:
I'm confused are they or aren't they air cooled? Asuming they ARE cooled, If you're pushing air through the hoods you shouldn't be losing CO2 through them. The hoods would end up being pressurized, so there would be no way for CO2 to get into them and get sucked out. You could put the lights on their own cooling circuit, pull air from outside the room and then exhaust it out of the room so it's not interacting with room air at all. Unless I'm misunderstanding everything....
Click to expand...
The air from the ducts cooling the hoods is comi g out all around each hood when they are closed and the hoods where 160 a pop. Air is being sucks in from another room and being exhausted out the roof in another room.


Unless pulling the air will close that much of the gaps..would it?
 
dbkick

dbkick

Well-Known Member
mrblu said:
The air from the ducts cooling the hoods is comi g out all around each hood when they are closed and the hoods where 160 a pop. Air is being sucks in from another room and being exhausted out the roof in another room.


Unless pulling the air will close that much of the gaps..would it?
Click to expand...
And if you were pulling air instead of pushing it there would be vacuum on the hoods pulling seals tighter instead of defeating the seals by pressurizing the hood.
Pull the air.
 
WeedFreak78

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
mrblu said:
The air from the ducts cooling the hoods is comi g out all around each hood when they are closed and the hoods where 160 a pop. Air is being sucks in from another room and being exhausted out the roof in another room.


Unless pulling the air will close that much of the gaps..would it?
Click to expand...
IDK, pulling the air will create negative pressure, closing up some gaps, but it will also pull room air out through any gaps that are left. I've seen where people use the adhesive backed metal insulation tape and tape EVERY seam in the hood, even around the glass and all duct connections. I've used smoke to trace leaks before, just light up and go blow smoke around the connections, the big ones will stand right out, not a bad idea if you can get a second set of eyes to help.
 
M

mrblu

Well-Known Member
I've just always put my fan on the can but I've never ran co2 till now since that's my current bottleneck.

IL try that first
 
M

mrblu

Well-Known Member
But I'd like to get away from that eventually to get more light but hopefully that's the quick fix I'm looking for
 
dbkick

dbkick

Well-Known Member
hey, I got a better idea , Take that coin you gonna throw on the mini split and buy 10 sun systems 315 lec, You'll need much less cooling then.
You'll be needing some more jars though.
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
To answer the question...

Yes 16k btu will cool it, but it is going to be working pretty hard. A 24k mini skirt would be much better and allow for expansion or running a co2 burner once you realize bottles are a huge PIA.

Air cooled hoods leak, ALL of them. Throw the ducting away and store the glass somewhere. Day good bye to cleaning hoods forever. :)

I would steer clear from super cheap import mini splits. Daikin is pretty bomb, so are Mitsi and pano
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Oh yeah.. pulling or pushing air... same net effect people In terms of air leakage.

It's simple fucking physics. Either your room is leaking from negative pressure (pulling) or positive pressure (pushing) it's still going to leak.
 
M

mrblu

Well-Known Member
chuck estevez

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
mrblu said:
its on the 2nd floor so i would probably need a 35 or 50 foot cord for it. that one comes with 16? if you get one without the kit what alld o you need? just the minisplit lineset?
Click to expand...
yeah, there is a wire that connects the outdoor and indoor unit, but you can use romex for that.
 
C

clayawesome

Well-Known Member
pulling the air sucks the glass tighter to the foam seal strip on the hood making less leaks. if that doesnt work well enough replace the foam seals with slightly thicker ones available at any hardware stroe. also keep in mind plants use a ton of CO2! my propane tank on my burner was empty for 5 hrs yesterday. co2 went from 1300ppm to 88ppm!
burning propane cost about 25% of running bottled CO2
 
C

clayawesome

Well-Known Member
also, leakage from pushing air enters your room as super heated air. leakage from pulling air removes air (including CO2) from ur room without adding heat u are trying to remove with ur hoods to begin with.
 
WeedFreak78

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
clayawesome said:
also, leakage from pushing air enters your room as super heated air. leakage from pulling air removes air (including CO2) from ur room without adding heat u are trying to remove with ur hoods to begin with.
Click to expand...
But if the lights are on their own, separate cooling circuit, outside intake>fan>ducting>lights> ducting>outside exhaust, sucking through can also pull smell from the room. I personally believe it's better to push through lights, allow it to leak into the room, and filter all room air being evacuated. I guess, in theory, you could add another carbon filter to the lights, but it's unneeded equipment when running like i describe, and carbon filters aren't designed to be blow through. outside intake>fan>ducting>lights>ducting>carbon filter>outside exhaust.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top