Seedling Care

ok I will start this thread with my germination technique (which has been 100% successful so far) for newbies curious about germination, then end the thread with my newbie questions.

Germination-
I use a combination of the soaking technique, and the paper towel technique with a heat mat.

Step 1;
Place the seeds in jars filled with just enough water to soak the seedling, and just little enough water to make fishing them out easy. Make sure the water is Ph'd between 6.0 and 6.3, and with PPM no higher than 100. Less then 40 PPM is ideal. However very low PPM's make PH testing difficult.
The best strategy I have found to achieve this is to pick up a gallon of DISTILLED water. Make sure it is just distilled water and not filtered drinking water as filtered drinking water will have minerals added. Add a Calmg solution (doesn't matter what brand) to the distilled water till it is about 60 PPM, at this level there is enough conductive dissolved solids to check Ph. Go ahead and balance your Ph place the seeds in the labeled jars and leave them in a dark area with a temp somewhere around 75 degrees for about 16 hours. DO NOT LET THE SEEDS SOAK FOR MORE THEN 24 HOURS.

Step 2;
After about 16 hours find 2 plates that when place with one face up, and the other face down on top of it will seal together well enough to effectively trap a fair amount of humidity. On top of the first plate place 2 layers of paper towel and prepare another 2 layers of paper towel to place on top of the first layer later. Fish your seeds out of the jars and place them on the first layer of paper towel placed on the face up plate. I usually write down the arrangement, and names of the seeds on a notebook somewhere in order to effectively remember which is which (this is only necessary if you are doing multiple strains). Prepare a spray solution similar to how you prepared the water in the previous step. Except this time add about 3 drops of 29% oxidizer H202 to one liter of water. This helps prevent molding in your germination aperture which will be very vulnerable to disease at this point. If you can only get ahold of 3% drug store H2O2 use about 10 drops instead. After your spray is ready place the second layer of paper towel over the paper towel on top of the plate with the seeds on it. Spray the seeds and paper towel liberally with your spray solution till the paper towel becomes nearly clear and you can see the seeds through it. Place the second plate face down over the other plate. Place the aperture on a heat mat set to 80 degrees F. If you don't have a heat mat the top of your fridge will work. However I would recommend cleaning off the top of your fridge first. If you are using the hydrofarm heat mat and temperature monitor, make sure to place the little metal electrode INSIDE the two plates to make sure you are monitoring the temperature of the actual seeds. Make sure your little set up is somewhere dark. The plates hold in humidity fairly well so it should only need to be checked about once a day. If the paper towel looks like it is drying out spray it again. Don't worry at this stage it is next to impossible to overwater. However a puddle around your seeds doesn't help anything.

Step 3;

After a day or two (results may vary) the taproots of the seeds should be showing clearly. Don't let the taproots grow out too much otherwise they will lose their gravitational orientation (advanced growing term), and when finally planted will be a little be confused at first as to which way to grow its roots. This is a waste of the seeds energy, and should be avoided. Once the taproots are showing prepare a medium to plant the seeds into. Rockwool works fine however if you are going to grow in soil I do not recommend it. Sooner or later you will have to transplant and the change of medium from rockwool to soil will induce quite a bit of shock. I use happy frog foxfarm soil mixed with about 10% Vermiculite, and 10% Perlite. If you are using rockwool the guide ends here for you. If you are using soil grab yourself some containers to put your medium in. I highly recommend 2 inch coconut husk pots, these pots can actually be transplanted with the plants as the roots will eventually just go through it. Mix up your soil Verm, and Perlite, put them in your coconut husk containers dent the soil with the same kind of water you prepared for you spray in step 1 then put them either in the sun, under a light, or on top of a heat mat for about an hour to allow them to dry a little bit. After a little bit of moisture has been evaporated away use a pencil to poke a hole in the middle of the pots between 1/4 and 1/2 inch deep. Wash, and dry your hands then gently pick up the seeds and put them into the holes TAPROOT DOWN. Put a very thin layer of soil over the planted seeds then cover the entire pot with a CLEAR plastic party cup. I usually spray the inside of the cup with the water prepared from step one two or three times. Then place the seeds under some kind of light. In my seed/clone set up I use about 4 CFL's two with full spectrum (bluer lights) and two red/orange spectrum lights about 10-12 inches away from the seed containers.

Step 4;

In a few days your seedling should pop up above ground. Immediately remove the party cups from the top of the pots, and provide the seedling with indirect airflow. I use a 6 inch desk fan on the lowest setting possible blowing at the wall behind the seedlings. For the first week (at minimum) use NO FERTILIZER when watering the seedlings. However it is likely that you will not need to water at all for the first week. When you do need to water I recommend using the water from step 1.


Now my question;

When preparing the medium for planting the seedlings I forgot to water the soil. The soil has become fairly dry, and I am worried the plant wont receive enough water. The plants have just sprouted, so they are probably to sensitive to even handle a watering so I'm not sure what to do. Let them grow a little and hope for the best? Or somehow provide them with water.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Place the seeds in jars filled with just enough water to soak the seedling, and just little enough water to make fishing them out easy. Make sure the water is Ph'd between 6.0 and 6.3, and with PPM no higher than 100. Less then 40 PPM is ideal. However very low PPM's make PH testing difficult.
The best strategy I have found to achieve this is to pick up a gallon of DISTILLED water. Make sure it is just distilled water and not filtered drinking water as filtered drinking water will have minerals added. Add a Calmg solution (doesn't matter what brand) to the distilled water till it is about 60 PPM, at this level there is enough conductive dissolved solids to check Ph. Go ahead and balance your Ph place the seeds in the labeled jars and leave them in a dark area with a temp somewhere around 75 degrees for about 16 hours. DO NOT LET THE SEEDS SOAK FOR MORE THEN 24 HOURS.

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Seems complicated with the water, wouldnt normal tapwater be just as good?

Now my question;

When preparing the medium for planting the seedlings I forgot to water the soil. The soil has become fairly dry, and I am worried the plant wont receive enough water. The plants have just sprouted, so they are probably to sensitive to even handle a watering so I'm not sure what to do. Let them grow a little and hope for the best? Or somehow provide them with water.

Any suggestions are appreciated

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Just water them, no plants are really that sensitive to water, thats what they want but if worried find a small pouring jug and water the soil gently so as not to disturb roots and stem.

Peace

Kingrow1 said:

Seems complicated with the water, wouldnt normal tapwater be just as good?

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Just as good? Most would say no. Good enough? Probably.

Also depends a lot on your tap water. Large cities tend to have very basic water with a lot of Chlorine. While as coastal in Michigan have great tapwater for growing. I have never needed to invest in an R/O because I live right along Lake Michigan. The city water is PH 6.7, and only 100PPM straight out of the sink.

Yep it certainly dose depend on your tap water but seedlings will be fine in tap water with higher ppm readings and not really a concern to them so much especially in soil.

As for water supplies all the levels of chlorine and flouride in most first world countries are far below the recomended safe amounts for humans and plants. Marijuana actually uptakes heavy metals quite well and will be what you see planted round chenobyl right now helping in the clean up effort.

I am too lucky that my tap water is below 70ppm and normally 50ppm due to the very hard non dissolvable rock we have in my country and find i only need to top it up with a bit of cal/mag. I water at pH8.1 to 8.5 and dont subscribe to nor do i pH water and ferts and still i get no problems.

Chlorine comes in two flavours for tap water as well, chloramides which are solids and non evaporational, then theres chlorine gas pumped into the water under high pressure and will evaporate from the water within 24 to 48 hours. Still most growers dont bother and water straight from the tap and it makes little difference, depends what you wana believe really. Marijuana actually needs small amounts of chlorine for good growth too.

Water was just somthing simple before i hit this site, now it is certainly the most important element in my grow, even though all i do is switch on the tap and water with a touch of cal/mag now and again. I prefer the water to be 150 to 200ppm and find 100ppm to be a RO water figure. Peace

really just depends on how complicated you care to make it. Marijuana all in all is pretty easy to grow. However if you want a 1lb yield on a single plant with top quality bud there is a price to pay. Not that I have achieved this, however I do alright. Ph definitely effects the absorption of nutrients in a very real way.

View attachment 1838709

At 8.0 the deficiencies you would experience should be manageable. It seems that most of your trouble would reside with manganese.
However like I said, it all depends on how complicated you want to make it. I don't worry at all about chlorine however I keep nutrient additions to a bare minimum especially during flower. Often times I don't even add nutrients I just give special care to preparation of my soil. However this technique does care for special attention to Ph. If my PH is off on a nutrient free grow the available nutrients in the soil washed over the roots during watering can be ignored by the plant. Ultimately salt builds up in the soil, the plant locks out necessary nutrients and I have a huge pain in my ass that could have been easily avoided.

I've never done hydro so I'm not sure how important the Ph in that scenario.

Yer thats all well and good but simply put lime is the same as ph up and add acidic ferts to soil and the lime almost instantly pH adjusts it and that my friend is the simplicity of growing in soil!! Aeasy as it seems this is as technical as you need to and can get. Ph adjust your ferts and water all you want but basically i just know the water and ferts start pH and adjust my soil accordingly with lime for the grow from start to finish. Go ahead and make it as complicated as you want dude but it'll grow you no better plants unfortunatly.

When you show that pH chart you seem to forget that soil microbes and funghi make nutrients available outside of certain pH ranges and hence that chart is vastly flawed when talking soil cycle nutrients.

Give up the technical stuff dude, this is soil were talking not hydro. Add lime to your soil, know your water and ferts starting pH and ppm values and simply forget there was ever a problem, the lime will help with subsequent cal/mag problems as well.

I understand your concerns about water and pH but its not rocket science, i water with pH8 water and get better growth than watering at pH7! Why? because my soil appreciates the alkaline elements.

Please understand pH is to do with hydrogen ions in the soil and that is what your main focus should be on if you want to get into the technical side, ultimatly we are simply balancing of the hydrogen ions with the alkaline elements to 'buffer' our soil at the appropriate levels.

Should you wana know just how quick your soil can change the water and ferts you give it just make a note of the pH before you add to the soil and the pH of the runoff, should they be different well what i said just happened and in real quick time. Peace

Kingrow1 said:

I understand your concerns about water and pH but its not rocket science, i water with pH8 water and get better growth than watering at pH7! Why? because my soil appreciates the alkaline elements.

Please understand pH is to do with hydrogen ions in the soil and that is what your main focus should be on if you want to get into the technical side, ultimatly we are simply balancing of the hydrogen ions with the alkaline elements to 'buffer' our soil at the appropriate levels.

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Not sure your science holds water there (tehe). PH refers to the percent hydronium in a solution (H3O+) which in distilled water is almost perfectly neutralized by hydroxide (OH-). Although pH in an organic scenario is extremely ambiguous considering the huge variety of other ions involved in the chemical processes. However the concept is still useful as most pH up/down solutions designed for botany take into consideration the other available ions that may exist in the solution and and the dissociation coefficient of H3O and OH with the given ions used in the balancing solutions. The advantage to this is that when the pH is properly balanced within a solution the free OH or H30 molecules become associated with other ions with which they cannot be easily separated from. For this reason I think most botanists with a background in chemistry would probably recommend Ph balancing your water as apposed to battling soil PH as the likelihood of the acid/base conjugation becomes lower as the contact radius becomes lower (I'm assuming the radius in an aqueous solution is lower then a soil solution ) . This probably results in uneven acid/base conjugate distribution(hypothetically). Ultimately resulting in pockets of nutrients remaining inaccessible to the plant which will eventually degrade into organic salts. I can only speculate on the consequences of salt in your soil, and uneven acid/base conjugation, but I don't really know.

I'll explain it the easy way for you, hydrogen ions released by the plant roots (Botany 101) in exchange for nutrients and other hydrogen ions from ferts, break down of materials etc etc are the main cause for your soil being acidic. The cation exchange capacity determines the amount the soil material will hold and swap for alkaline ions.

Please dont assume in all my posts i havent already been down the same road you are on and come back with the answers cause thats exactly what ive been doing and until someone corrects me with actual growing science or info i dont see how your chemical analysis of soil, ph and water really fit into the already studied and practiced soil, ph and water stuff growers like me and others are currently doing and probably outgrowing you with!lol!

I dont really need to get into it but when you got the time go find out for yourself, try googling these key words-

'Hydrogen ions soil pH'

Please dont advise other growers on pH and water till you are a little more learned and done some googling, or possibly asked me some constructive questions instead of disputting the knowledge of countless growers that is passed on through this site and me. Surely i mean to be friendly but simply 'google hydrogen ions soil ph' and start with plenty of reading. Some would appreciate this info when speculating on the higher properties of soil pH, possibly check for previous threads i have had on this very subject, there will be lots trust me. Peace

Alpha492 said:

Not sure your science holds water there (tehe). PH refers to the percent hydronium in a solution (H3O+) which in distilled water is almost perfectly neutralized by hydroxide (OH-)..

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For an aqueous solution to have a higher pH, a base must be dissolved in it, which binds away many of these rare hydrogen ions. Hydrogen ions in water can be written simply as H+ or as hydronium (H3O+) or higher species (e.g., H9O4+) to account for solvation, but all describe the same entity

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH

Again someone who just didnt read the pH part on wiki futher enough! Hydronium-Hydrogen! Seriously dude read a little futher next time!lol! Peace

FYI-

An acid is the measure of the hydrogen ions and an alkali is the ability to neutralise these hydrogen ions! PH101! Peace

The easiest way I have tried is so easy it crazy simple stupid.
1. Take a clean glass. You can use R.O. water or EVEN tap water. (used both and never saw a difference, meaning both successful, and I have never ph'd for popping my seeds.)
2. Fill it about a third of the way with your desired water.
3. To help you can make a tube out of sand paper and shake your seeds in that tube for a 30-60 seconds. It will scratch the surface of the seeds , helping them obtain moisture. Take your seeds and drop them in the water. If your seed is still floating after 12-24hrs tap it and it will sink.
5. When the tap root is exposed. Use tweezers and CAREFULLY remove the seed from the cup of water and plant. (From a tip to about a centimeter they are good to extract and plant.)

This process can take up to a week or two for really old seeds. Usually by the 3rd day (at the latest) I will at least see the seed has cracked open. I am not an expert and have had, only 1 seed never pop! edit: so far

Yer i agree but not too sound a knob but seems too many get hung up on pH and water in soil, i mean its good to know where you stand but too much messing around with things is never good.

To be really technical seedlings prefer a slightly lower pH than veg plants and some seedling soils are of slightly lower pH to accomodate this, now wether this be for better nutrient absorbtion in the seedling stage i dont know but is this minor detail really worth worrying about when your growing great seedlings anyway, it certainly wont be the reason for failure.

Plus we need to get our facts right round here, too many pH myths and water problems, everyone hates on tap water without knowing wether theirs is good or bad in the first place, all guess work and no research. Peace

Kingrow1 said:

For an aqueous solution to have a higher pH, a base must be dissolved in it, which binds away many of these rare hydrogen ions. Hydrogen ions in water can be written simply as H+ or as hydronium (H3O+) or higher species (e.g., H9O4+) to account for solvation, but all describe the same entity

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH

Again someone who just didnt read the pH part on wiki futher enough! Hydronium-Hydrogen! Seriously dude read a little futher next time!lol! Peace

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Again I don't want to speculate as that is not my field of study. Chemical engineering is (2 yrs). Thank for the wikipedia definition which for hydronium begins with a disclaimer regarding it's lack of accurate citations. However you obviously misunderstand the relationship between pH and chemical bonds.

Chem 101-

Ionic Bond - Bond in which two or more elements or molecules share an electron based on electrostatic interaction in order to oxidize or reduce to closest available ground state by completing or eliminating valence layer.

Interesting fact, the hydrogen ion you referred to rarely exist on earth as H+ refers to a hydrogen atom with no electrons commonly called protium (since it is a single proton often with no neutrons). Therefore H+ and H3O+ are not interchangeable terms, in chemistry at least. Also Hydrogen ion would refer to a single Hydrogen ion which has either lost its single electron or gained any theoretical amount of electrons. Although any charge beyond H 3- would be extraordinarily rare due the property of shielding beyond the 1s orbital layer of hydrogen.

So back to hydronium now that we are on the same page. Classical pH only refers to the ratio of Hydronium to bases with less than four electrons (however this does not to apply to transition metals as their orbital layers begin at 3d, and as their 3d shell is removed before their 3d, making their reactions in solutions where pH is a concern complicated). Or to bases (in the rare situation) carrying an extra valence electron. Although base in all of the above mentions situations is highly ambiguous unless we are talking about OH-. As an ion is not considered basic unless it meets a few conditions, it must be aqueous, it must have 4 or less valence electrons, at least one of these valence electrons must be able to be readily shared with hydronium (the valence orbital is far enough away from the nucleus so that hydronium's nucleus is not simultaneously repelled during the interaction). Now that we have established what a base is, we can talk about how a base "binds" (a word you used) with hydronium. No binding ever actually takes place. When hydronium comes within the effective electromagnetic field of the base (technically the electromagnetic fields of both hydronium and the base extend to infinity). The nucleases within the base and hydronium are repulsed far before any effective "bonding" can take place. However their proximity is such that their electrostatic fields cancel each other out. Making the effective charge of the solution at equilibrium zero. This is part of the definition of an acid/base relationship.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_ion

Hydrogen ion is recommended by IUPAC as a general term for all ions of hydrogen and its isotopes.

Ion - Charged particle meaning there are either more or less electrons in relation to the number of protons contained in the nucleus.

Isotope - Refers to elements with the same number of protons but different amounts of electrons.

What hydrogen ion does not refer to;

Hydronium, Why not? - If you had red your wikipedia article more closely, and maybe with some knowledge of chemistry the second sentence mentioning hydrogen ions contained WITHIN H3O does not refer to H3O as a hydrogen ion. When chemist refer to hydrogen ions in a solution what they are talking about is hydrogen ion very loosely bonded to hydronium (debatable if at all). This is possible because of H2O's geometry. H20 is polar with a triangle shape, but the geometric charge distribution is incomplete. Meaning that although conventional chemistry would predict that H2O is stable its geometry allows for one more protium to enter the structure and force the two other hydrogens to shift there geometric orientation by only a few degrees. The protium is severely repulsed by the nucleases of the other atoms in the structure however is attracted by the electrons that are shared near the center of the trigonal structure. Making an effective but extraordinarily weak bond.


Hope that helps!

And still you have no comprehension of pH in soil!

Ionic bonds are generally disreguarded cause there can be too many so good luck with that useless peice of you know what! Ionic bonds, this is soil here and ionic bonds exist with many elements.

Simply put no were still not on the same page, call it hydronium if you want its still hydrogen to me and my soil and i quoted wiki because you obviously felt the need to omit this slight mis statement-

Interesting fact, the hydrogen ion you referred to rarely exist on earth as H+ refers to a hydrogen atom with no electrons commonly called protium (since it is a single proton often with no neutrons). Therefore H+ and H3O+ are not interchangeable terms,-

But it still equates for hydrogen, do not try and fool me with your simpleton science, soil has too many variables to try and discuss the conversation you seem to whant to have but unfortunatly were just not gona because at the molecular level stoners just say shutup and keep it simple. Still your ionic bonds was a good try, its implications really meaningless here unfortunatly.LOL!

Still no where near the same page as me but keep reciting and eventually you might learn how to put the two together! Peace

Its science tards like you who go too far into pH to understand that were simply not looking at hydronium and if you got a meter that reads hydronium well good luck to you because the rest of us just got simple pH meters at a reasonable price and seem to work of different principles of pH than your supposed lab where i guess you use hydronium meters that are set for the ionic bond of the substance your measuring ''wait a second there are too many ionic bonds to calibrate this so called meter'' better call another science tard to take individual readings of each element correctly callibrated to its own particular ionic bonds depending on what it wants to bond with!

Can you see where your no where near my page!

Anyone else wana discuss the application of protons in soil, hydronium or otherwise? Peace

Kingrow1 said:

And still you have no comprehension of pH in soil!

Ionic bonds are generally disreguarded cause there can be too many so good luck with that useless peice of you know what! Ionic bonds, this is soil here and ionic bonds exist with many elements.

Simply put no were still not on the same page, call it hydronium if you want its still hydrogen to me and my soil and i quoted wiki because you obviously felt the need to omit this slight mis statement-


But it still equates for hydrogen, do not try and fool me with your simpleton science, soil has too many variables to try and discuss the conversation you seem to whant to have but unfortunatly were just not gona because at the molecular level stoners just say shutup and keep it simple. Still your ionic bonds was a good try, its implications really meaningless here unfortunatly.LOL!

Still no where near the same page as me but keep reciting and eventually you might learn how to put the two together! Peace

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I think I missed your point, in your original statement you said the acids in water bonded to the bases. I assumed you meant ionically because covalent would be ridiculous. I made the point that no bonding at all took place in an acid/base conjugate. Then never mentioned ionic bonding again.

Then in your first paragraph alone you say that ionic bond are irrelevant, then conclude in the same paragraph to say that "ionic bonds exist and with many elements" despite the fact I never mentioned ionic bonding aside to rebuke your statement that acids and bases bonded.

Kingrow1 said:

Its science tards like you who go too far into pH to understand that were simply not looking at hydronium and if you got a meter that reads hydronium well good luck to you because the rest of us just got simple pH meters at a reasonable price and seem to work of different principles of pH than your supposed lab where i guess you use hydronium meters that are set for the ionic bond of the substance your measuring ''wait a second there are too many ionic bonds to calibrate this so called meter'' better call another science tard to take individual readings of each element correctly callibrated to its own particular ionic bonds depending on what it wants to bond with!

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Where do I start with this little mad-lib.

A pH meter is a hydronium meter? I guess...

pH = Percent Hydronium

"you use hydronium meters that are set for the ionic bond of the substance your measuring" Kingrow1

Are you selling clones of the dope your smoking right now? That sounded like a Bill Cosby quote!

PH is literally percent hydronium detectable through electrical conductivity. Any, and all methods of pH measure this including litmus strips, and aquarium test kits. PH is not a measure of "ionic bond of the substance your measuring" I'm not sure of any other way to measure the strength of an ionic bond other than hardcore math.

Yer so what exact temperature do you want this aqueaous solution to be for us to acuratly test our hydrogen ions that have solvated into hydronium because i understand your little science lesson but again it has no practical use compared to lime and hydrogen which by the way mr know it all is exactly what gardeners or biochemists (which you apparently are not!) have been calling hydronium for a very long time, even back before they knew about this little useless peice of information. Whatever you want to call hydrogen is cool with me but simply put hydronium is a product from certain changes and not eactly what it started out as i.e. hydrogen and like you stated before may never go back.

P.s. my Ph meter is just a simple voltmeter so good luck with your hydronium meter.

Hydronium has too many implications for you too recite when were talking soil and because of those many wonderfull ionic bonds that are yes ever present between the various soil elements meaning any certain testing of pH would undoubtedly be wrong, in fact there has never been an accurate way for us to precisely test pH unfortunatly but i guess you already know that being so learned.

So simply put now you seem to think you know about pH please place all your useless crap into some general growing theory that future growers can take away and use in practice??

Oh i forgot you were talking crap in the first place because there is no accurate way of measuring the hydronium levels in soil nor any general reguard to what temperature would give us the most accurate reason neither any consideration for the ionic bonds and there particular ones of which there are too many for the standard lab to sift out and get some kind of analysis even guess at the percentage and add to this the fact that my science is much more accurate for plants when you take into consideration the many different molecular variations that might exert different readings from one moment to the next, i mean just how do we determin when all our hydronium is formed and can we get completely pure enough water to actuall carry out accurate pH'ing of our water.

Grow guide coming to a website near you, your gona need a lab just to keep the variables right!"lololol!

Kingrow1 said:

Yer so what exact temperature do you want this aqueaous solution to be for us to acuratly test our hydrogen ions that have solvated into hydronium because i understand your little science lesson but again it has no practical use compared to lime and hydrogen which by the way mr know it all is exactly what gardeners or biochemists (which you apparently are not!) have been calling hydronium for a very long time, even back before they knew about this little useless peice of information. Whatever you want to call hydrogen is cool with me but simply put hydronium is a product from certain changes and not eactly what it started out as i.e. hydrogen and like you stated before may never go back.

P.s. my Ph meter is just a simple voltmeter so good luck with your hydronium meter.

Hydronium has too many implications for you too recite when were talking soil and because of those many wonderfull ionic bonds that are yes ever present between the various soil elements meaning any certain testing of pH would undoubtedly be wrong, in fact there has never been an accurate way for us to precisely test pH unfortunatly but i guess you already know that being so learned.

So simply put now you seem to think you know about pH please place all your useless crap into some general growing theory that future growers can take away and use in practice??

Oh i forgot you were talking crap in the first place because there is no accurate way of measuring the hydronium levels in soil nor any general reguard to what temperature would give us the most accurate reason neither any consideration for the ionic bonds and there particular ones of which there are too many for the standard lab to sift out and get some kind of analysis even guess at the percentage and add to this the fact that my science is much more accurate for plants when you take into consideration the many different molecular variations that might exert different readings from one moment to the next, i mean just how do we determin when all our hydronium is formed and can we get completely pure enough water to actuall carry out accurate pH'ing of our water.

Grow guide coming to a website near you, your gona need a lab just to keep the variables right!"lololol!

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This is getting exhausting

1.) Botany pH meters are adjusted for the usual temperatures in which plants are grown at. Any difference in conductivity reading between these temperatures is negligible.
2.) Protium (H+) is not dissolved (I think you meant by solvated) into hydronium, it is part of it.
3.) Since when has any biochemist called hydronium lime? That is such a misnomer its almost psychotic.
3.) Voltmeter = Ph meter (hydronium) I'll explain in a later piece.
4.) Pure water pH cannot bet measured. Your voltmeter along with just about every other pH meter in the world relies on the conductivity of the solution you are testing. Without some level of dissolved conductive solids pH cannot be tested, as pure water is non-conductive.
5.) pH of soil can be very accurately measured, especially in a lab through a process called titration. Take a chemical engineering technology class and you can learn about it. However soil pH testing at home is difficult without some know how, and a lot of healthy math. Most of the time it is easier to just estimate. The best method would be to measure the pH of water you intend on watering with pour it in the pot, collect the runoff and measure the pH of the runoff. Take the average of the two pH readings, your soil pH is likely within -+.4 of this average.