Seedlings in 2 different mediums and drying at different rates, What to do?

I started my seedlings in Jiffy Peat Pellets. After a week or so i placed the peat pellets in Red Solo Cups that was filed with a cheap ass organic soil called MojoGro from Krogers ( Its supposed to have perlite but i hate it). NPK values for the soil is like .35, .15,.15. Anyways my problem is that the soil usually gets really dry ontop while the peat pellets stay relatively moist. This confuses me on when to water. I want to leave it to dry good so that the roots can grow but if i wait for the pellets to dry, then by that time the soil is really bone dry for the first like 2-3 inches.
After i transplanted into the solo cups i have noticed more of a slowing down in growth and some seedlings have some yellowing. Now these seedlings have been stressed a bit before the transplanting, but the issues began after the transplanting. They are about 2 weeks old

So when should i water? What should i do? Will it be ok or are there signs of a problem i need to take care of quick?
 

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*BUDS

Well-Known Member
You are overwatering, giving you the stunted yellow sick things in the pics. You must let the jiffy dry and the cup should be much lighter to lift compared to just watered before watering again, also always use 30% min perlite to reduce chances of this happening.
 

allen bud

Active Member
To much watering. And you should have waited till atleast 2 weeks to transplant to such a strongly ferted soil.water only when your cup gets quit light .And feel how heavy just after watering so you can get used to watering time. If it has not been more then 2 weeks yet the most of the roots are still in the peat pellet so check thepellet to make sure its dry. I have special cups to put over seedling to keep moister at the plant for at least the first 3 weeks.
 

timbeallnd

Member
The Organic Mojo is stronger than advertised also (acts different than peat though because the nutrients are all organically derived). It is comprised of compost, and because of soil/label restrictions we decided to under advertise the content just to make sure that the government doesn't ever fine us for being slightly too low. Your problem is definitely overwatering, because usually retains moisture about 30% longer than peat/perlite in growing trials. The problem we have is that the texture of our soil is different - so to human touch it feels differently. Also it naturally develops a dry top part - which seals in moisture. Basically Mojo should primarily only be used for transplanted/rooted plugs - because of the higher fertility. To make growing easier - mix mojo at 30% rate with normal peat/perlite. Then you don't have to worry about the higher fertility or moisture holding difference - also the feel/touch will be similar to what you are used to. Here's an example of 100% grown plant 3 1/2 weeks after transplanting from a solo cup size transplant. Liquid Organic fertilizer at 125ppm N. #3 size Nursery container.View attachment 2755100View attachment 2755101 In order to give an example of how the chemical/organic fertilizers work differently for nutrient burn. Using EC as the measurement. Mojo at 3.5 EC to 4.0 EC won't delay tomato plant growth (trials). Whereas Peat/Perlite at 3.0-3.5 EC (using chemical fertilizer) will slow down growth rates - assuming normal watering practices. This trial was done using 100% mojo vs. peat/perlite (hort grade) with macro/micro and chemical wetting agent. Please note - It is possible to get higher growth rates in tomato plants (hydroponically) using a 3.5-4.5 EC chemical fertilization rate - but this is because you don't have to worry about dry down affecting things (also controlling heat and humidity). Under normal soilless media growing, most commercial growers try to stay under 2.0 EC - so that dry down doesn't create problems. If you have Mojo added to your soil in a 25%-30% ratio ..... 2.5 EC should be safe, because some of the nutrients are organic (organic has both available and unavailable nutrients - and why it acts differently).
 
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