Legen
Member
I think I have a perfect breeze going over her right now. room staying around 80 degrees
Seems like every time I get new set of leaves the old ones die.
- Thread starter Legen
- Start date
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
Don't worry until you need to. It's a pretty resilient plant. I grow a lot of stuff besides MJ and I can tell you I wish some of my veggies were as tough. What kind of soil mix did you start with? It does seem like something was wrong from the start, not so much with the feeding. Starting them in small pots is fine, as long as you get them into bigger pots when they need it. I wait 2-3 weeks, before I transplant into 3 gallons, then after another few weeks, before flower, into their flowering 7 gallon or whatever.
DonAlejandroVega
Well-Known Member
I'm diggin' it. a rich medium, plus even the friendliest feeds, before its the right time, can cause problems just like the synthetics.
DonAlejandroVega
Well-Known Member
yup. fill'er up, let'er drain. nice breeze. see what new growth looks like in a week. and if there is vertical growth.
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
Here's my start. I mix the soil and put into pots 2 weeks before the seed/plant goes in. My soil is established cuz of my garden but, you want the organic soil to have some prep time so all the little good stuff living in it, makes it fertile. When I finish germ and seed goes in little pots (which have been prepped for a few weeks) I prep the 3 gallons. When I transplant into 3 gallons, I'll prep the 7's. The little pots have my soil mix and a little bone meal to help early growth. The 3 gallons have a tiny bit of bone meal and all-purpose (again, very little, very low like 3-2-2, but loaded with good bacteria). The 7 gallons will have the same. I will start feeding with Alaska when I transplant into 3 gallons and the plants r settled. I very rarely have any trouble early, and my plants are usually very healthy. 
That's one at 3 weeks. I haven't fed it anything yet except a sprinkle of bone meal in the hole, and a sprinkle top dress of bone meal a week after she came up. Sorry for the photo bomb on the thread, just wanna show you how little it needs early.
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
Why? Did you test the PH?
Legen
Member
Yes. I use tap water so it differs sometimes so I bought a kit. This time I actually didn't have to add anything. Water was about 7.2
Legen
Member
Damn. I started out just kind of winging it and doing as I go. Those plants look awesome for so young. Are they topped?
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
K, make sure you test the runoff (the water that comes out when you water it. That's the ph # you want to work with.
Thanks. Yes. That was like a week *and a few days after topping.
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
Don't worry. It takes time. Keep it simple for yourself, get through a grow. See what it does. You'll learn a lot from experience. Grow other plants that aren't quite as valuable, lol. Practice on those.
Legen
Member
It just seems like Legit every time I get new growth the old dies. I haven't been able to maintain more than 4 leaves at a time.
Legen
Member
Okay! What am I looking for in the run off ph?
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
I mean, anywhere from 6.0-7.0 is safe. Optimal is the 6.5 range depending on the plant. To be honest though, I never have PH problems because I water with rain and well water. When I set up my gardens I did Ph testing and everything was in the 6.5 to 7.0 rang so, unless I specifically have a prob I think is being caused by PH, I don't stress it.
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
What was your original soil mix?
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
You might want to go look up super soils, too. How to make them, whats in them...good way to learn about soils and how they work.
Legen
Member
Yeah I was interested in that but like I said before I just kinda winged it and went with a generic soil.
The brand soil I used was Jiffy natural and organic seed starting mix with some miricle grow perlite.
TONOTE: the seedling started in a mg soil and moved over about a week or two in.
When I started this grow it was inteded to be as cost efficient as I could possibly keep her. wanted to actually do free. But I ran across some money and decided to invest a little.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Sparty,,,I thought you knew better then that!
The pH of the run off is just that, the pH of the run off.......NOT the pH of your soil!!!!
Soil self pH's...When you water the pH of the soil swings UP and as it dries back out it swings DOWN.....To get a REAL soil pH you should get a soil testing kit.....but why? If you start with good amended soil and care for it (as opposed to take care of the plant) the soil will care for your plant!.......Unless your soil is bad.....(WHAT IS IT?)....it will not be to hard to fix this up.......
Again,,,what soil did you start with?
FLUSH???? WTF for? He sure doesn't have a salt build up!!!! A flush will do more harm then good in organic...be nice to your Myco's.....simply water with straight water....
Add some sort of zyme.......You want to inoculate the soil with some nice fresh alive bio's.
What soil is the real question....
Sparkticus
Well-Known Member
I stand corrected. I actually use soil test kits, though. I have never tested run off so that's my error. I thought he had a water PH test kit because he said his water was 7.2.
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