Setting Up CO2 for the First Time

Hey All,

I was looking to set up CO2 for the first time. After reading numerous posts and threads, and I see a lot of great advice. I plan to buy a good regulator, CO2 bottle and more than likely the Atlas 3 by Titan as a controller.

I see that by all the advice that has been posted by others that a lot of folks are running CO2 when the ambient temp in the room is at a Temp Range of 90-95 deg. for around 10-20 Minutes with the CO2 @1500 PPM. I undertand there is a controller made by C.A.P. which can regulate the CO2 further when used in conjunction with the ATLAS 3.

What I can't seem understand is how to get the temp in the room to stay at a constant 90-95 degrees for 10-20 Minutes while pumping in the CO2.

I have gotten this far
on the CAP box

I set the humidity for around 60%
Set the Temp between 90-95degrees
set "CO2 ON" time accordingly
Set the CO2 Timer to only allow a CO2 Injection every 2 Hrs @ 6 per 12 Hrs

On the ATLAS 3 set the CO2 PPM at 1500

HOW do I get it to trigger only for 10 MINS without my other cooling devices triggering

i.e. filter fan, independent A/C, light fans, fresh air intake fan.

I have my A/C ready to kick on at 85 degrees. PLS help

dude.........

you need to step back set the pipe down and simplify.

constant 90F at 50% RH and 1500ppm CO2 is what you want no ten min ten min that. i dont run fully sealed rooms but i can tell you all you really need to know.

fully sealed rooms come with issue my first recommendation is an exhaust fan and filter for night time, reduce worry bout mold increase trichs with dry air.


next is you want you regulator to run less than 10 min, if you run it at 10 min it will freeze and eventually break creating a major scare.

you lights should be cooled on a seperate circuit of air than the growand if you using a window AC you will need to take it apart to besure outside air does not mix with inside and seal with spray foam insulation accordingly. if your using a portable AC it needs to be a dual hose.

looks like you need to read more threads all of your questions will be answered if you search...

1mahdahpahkah4u said:

Hey All,

I was looking to set up CO2 for the first time. After reading numerous posts and threads, and I see a lot of great advice. I plan to buy a good regulator, CO2 bottle and more than likely the Atlas 3 by Titan as a controller.

I see that by all the advice that has been posted by others that a lot of folks are running CO2 when the ambient temp in the room is at a Temp Range of 90-95 deg. for around 10-20 Minutes with the CO2 @1500 PPM. I undertand there is a controller made by C.A.P. which can regulate the CO2 further when used in conjunction with the ATLAS 3.

What I can't seem understand is how to get the temp in the room to stay at a constant 90-95 degrees for 10-20 Minutes while pumping in the CO2.

I have gotten this far
on the CAP box

I set the humidity for around 60%
Set the Temp between 90-95degrees
set "CO2 ON" time accordingly
Set the CO2 Timer to only allow a CO2 Injection every 2 Hrs @ 6 per 12 Hrs

On the ATLAS 3 set the CO2 PPM at 1500

HOW do I get it to trigger only for 10 MINS without my other cooling devices triggering

i.e. filter fan, independent A/C, light fans, fresh air intake fan.

I have my A/C ready to kick on at 85 degrees. PLS help

Click to expand...

You're almost there.. just caught on a few things..

First off you're asking a little too much of the ATLAS 3.. What you're thinking of is something like the Saturn 2. The A3 only cares about three things. Are the lights on.. is the co2 high enough? is the co2 too low?.. But there maybe a way to piggy back that on to something else and use it's logic..

Don't take what you read so literally. Plants use co2 though out the warmer temps. It's just the peak might in the low 90's. So, at 80 it's working too just maybe not at its peak.

The general rule of thumb is to keep the room as close to 1500ppm while the lights are on.

What I think you want is the Saturn 3. This ties all those things together so it will work best for your situation. On that you'd set your high temps, your high humidity. Those will control your fresh air fan. They only turn on when it goes over what you've set. BUT it will know that you're running the fans and turn off the c02 so you don't waste it. Then once the temps or humidity get with bellow your settings it will turn off the fan and as long as the lights are on it will turn on the co2 and try to maintain 1500 ppm until the temps get too high or the humidity gets too high or the lights turn off. It's pretty simple when you lay it out.

The only problem is if your room has a large air gap someplace or someone leaves the door open it will keep trying to fill the room with co2 that is going out the leak or door. Sort of how your heater in your house tries to heat the world if you leave all the windows open on a cold day. Best is to seal it up the best you can.

polyarcturus said:

dude.........

you need to step back set the pipe down and simplify.

constant 90F at 50% RH and 1500ppm CO2 is what you want no ten min ten min that. i dont run fully sealed rooms but i can tell you all you really need to know.

fully sealed rooms come with issue my first recommendation is an exhaust fan and filter for night time, reduce worry bout mold increase trichs with dry air.


next is you want you regulator to run less than 10 min, if you run it at 10 min it will freeze and eventually break creating a major scare.

you lights should be cooled on a seperate circuit of air than the growand if you using a window AC you will need to take it apart to besure outside air does not mix with inside and seal with spray foam insulation accordingly. if your using a portable AC it needs to be a dual hose.

Click to expand...

I dont exhaust in my CEA ( Controlled Environment Agriculture ) stale air gets scrubbed by the scrubber on 24/7 and AC brings in new air along with the co2 and plants.. Plants make fresh oxygen for my room.

BeaverHuntr said:

I dont exhaust in my CEA ( Controlled Environment Agriculture ) stale air gets scrubbed by the scrubber on 24/7 and AC brings in new air along with the co2 and plants.. Plants make fresh oxygen for my room.

Click to expand...

they dont bring the RH down, AC does a little but id prefer not have to run my AC all night but to each tier own right?


also side note; my best results using CO2 temp wise was around 80-85.

I am also trying to run CO2 for the first time... I understand the day time conditions with temp/ppm/hum/etc... My question is a nighttime, do I resort back to typical intake/exhaust, or just leave the room sealed until the lights come on with a scrubber inside? I have heard both sides to this.

Thanks All,
rootine

rootine said:

I am also trying to run CO2 for the first time... I understand the day time conditions with temp/ppm/hum/etc... My question is a nighttime, do I resort back to typical intake/exhaust, or just leave the room sealed until the lights come on with a scrubber inside? I have heard both sides to this.

Thanks All,
rootine

Click to expand...

Most people just shut down the co2 and let the temp and humidity be controlled.

Thanks eDude, I have also heard to lay off of the CO2 for the first 2 weeks in bloom to avoid extra "stretching" in the plants, and then lay off the last week also. Is this accurate?

Thanks,
rootine

I guess I have more questions than I had anticipated.... I understand that we do not need CO2 in veg... but right now in veg I am using traditional intake/exhaust setup. my exhaust fan kicks on for a few mins to evacuate all of the old air also taking all of the cool air that my A/C had created with it causing the A/C to run more than it needs(i want to save power). I guess my question is can I seal the room in Veg and just set my CO2 to 300-400ppm which is typical atmosphere CO2 levels and stop using my intake/exhaust to save my A/C from having to constantly work to keep the room cool?

Thanks,
rootine

Thanks,
rootine

rootine said:

Thanks eDude, I have also heard to lay off of the CO2 for the first 2 weeks in bloom to avoid extra "stretching" in the plants, and then lay off the last week also. Is this accurate?

Thanks,
rootine

Click to expand...

Not sure about the first two weeks.. but I do know that you want to crank it down at then end and keep it ambient. Co2 is a ethylene inhibidor. This means that is can offset or stop ripening. When they pick tomatoes and put them in the clear sealed containers they fill it with co2 and it will stay like that (ripe) for much longer and not over ripen and rot. The other side of that is bananas. The load a whole shipping container with green bananas and treat it with ethylene.. When they open it up.. they are all yellow.. At the med clubs they are shooting the bags with nitrogen gas.. but that's something else.

This is also the gas that is causes one bad apple to ruin the whole bunch...

youll still have to cool the room proobably even more so if you seal up your veg.

as far as laying off the Co2 the first and last weeks there is no point, maybe the last week because if everything is going according to scschedule your buds should be bigger and take a little longer to ripen. this is why i recommend venting at night this eliminates these things as issues.

eDude said:

Not sure about the first two weeks.. but I do know that you want to crank it down at then end and keep it ambient. Co2 is a ethylene inhibidor. This means that is can offset or stop ripening. When they pick tomatoes and put them in the clear sealed containers they fill it with co2 and it will say like that (ripe) for much longer and not over ripen and rot. The other side of that is bananas. The load a whole shipping container with green bananas and treat it with ethylene.. When they open it up.. they are all yellow.. At the med clubs they are shooting the bags with nitrogen gas.. but that's something else.

This is also the gas that is causes one bad apple to ruin the whole bunch...

Click to expand...

correct except plants dont "ripen" during the day when co2 is on.

polyarcturus said:

correct except plants dont "ripen" during the day when co2 is on.

Click to expand...

yeah, I don't even know if flowers 'ripen' I think it's just one of many terms we've misused.. That is just one of a few reasons people lay off at end. The other is that generally your plant use of nutrients peaks at about week 5 on a 8 week schedule then it's bulking up. Most people mirror their co2 use with the nute strengths. It can't really hurt but it might be a waste. But, co2 is cheap.. Basically you can't lose. lol

exactly my stand point i run it till the end full strength, but if you setup is small like mine 20lb tank lasts 6 months

honestly thinking about ripen. it seems correct, in sense of fully devolped calyxes. all im saying is the THC production and bloom process occurs at night not day thus most of the aging(ripening) happens at that time, thus the need to exhaust out. thats why i use timers and monitors instead of a controller.