Should I double up for mite eradication/control?

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Have you tried Method One?
https://growthefficiency.com/introducing-method-1-pps/


Growth Efficiency Technologies is proud to introduce Method 1-pps to the world. This initial offering is one of a series of products with ingredients that are generally considered harmless and non-toxic, targeted for use in Integrated Pest Management. By not incorporating any poisons into this product we are assuring that your plant products can be free of dangerous volatile chemical compounds for the protection of growers, processors and end users.

Method 1-pps is primarily intended to address the major pest and disease problems that are common, namely spider mites, thrips, whiteflies, aphids, mealy bugs, mold, and mildew. In coming articles we will discuss these specific issues and how they can be controlled without the use of dangerous chemicals.

In the US, each year close to five billion pounds of these dangerous compounds are dumped into our environment to control various pests. Yes, I said five billion. It has increased every year. Now, it stands to reason that if they actually worked then we wouldn’t need to increase that every year. While they do initially kill most of the pests in a specific location, there are always survivors and unhatched eggs. Beneficial insects and microbes are also destroyed at the same time. These pests develop resistance and without enemies will soon bloom into a bigger problem. This in turn necessitates new poisons and ever increasing frequency and quantity of applications, an undesirable spiral of events. At Growth Efficiency Technologies we are going in the other direction.

Method 1-pps is a plant protection system (pps) that is used via foliar application. It kills living spider mites on contact and will also kill some of the eggs. What’s that? you say. It only kills some of the eggs? Yes, that is the truth. The rest of the truth is that there is nothing that you would want to put on things humans consume that kills all of the eggs. So how does this work then? With a little knowledge of the pest you are dealing with it is not that hard. We can help.

Dangerous methods and materials don’t make any sense and present a clear danger to end consumers. In future articles we will address what can be done to deal with these problems in a way that is more safe and attuned to nature.

peace
MY only problem with things like this, is the oil's. I'm not a fan of using any "oil" on my plants.
Back when I had disp's. I had to turn some product's down by growers who used those oil's. They would use them close to harvest, and you could actually smell them on the product.

Proper use is key!
 

DirtDigginChick

Active Member
@Dr. Who I just want to start by saying that I'm sorry you had to witness that game in person. My condolences...Would've been a good week for Lions tickets. (That game was still a shit-show though)

Thank you all for your help so far, I can't say that enough. I've honestly never let my plants get this bad and am taking every step to prevent it again.

I'm not a fan of oils, I have to agree with the time/space-traveler here.

I am up-potting some and after the transplant stress I'm going to spray the forbid again, will that help if I do have thrips?

The room they are moving into is better protected and has been bombed recently. I'm treating the ladies before moving and keeping up on regular treatment until flower. I'm stubborn, these effing bugs are going to DIE.

Am I crazy thinking I can treat a thrip infestation? I've battled mites and have won, but thrips are a new monster to me. I'm still not seeing any of the little worms on the leaves? Does everyone agree this is thrips? Or could mites still be the bad guys?

You guys and all that knowledge you've got, rock btw. :cool: :peace: :bigjoint:
 

Odin*

Well-Known Member
That is definitely thrip damage. Monterey Garden Insect Spray (a weak spinosad insecticide) wipes out thrips easy. One application and they are done (spray both tops and bottoms of leaves, bottom first). Shit happens, clean it up and move on. :bigjoint:

@Dr. Who I just want to start by saying that I'm sorry you had to witness that game in person. My condolences...Would've been a good week for Lions tickets. (That game was still a shit-show though)

Thank you all for your help so far, I can't say that enough. I've honestly never let my plants get this bad and am taking every step to prevent it again.

I'm not a fan of oils, I have to agree with the time/space-traveler here.

I am up-potting some and after the transplant stress I'm going to spray the forbid again, will that help if I do have thrips?

The room they are moving into is better protected and has been bombed recently. I'm treating the ladies before moving and keeping up on regular treatment until flower. I'm stubborn, these effing bugs are going to DIE.

Am I crazy thinking I can treat a thrip infestation? I've battled mites and have won, but thrips are a new monster to me. I'm still not seeing any of the little worms on the leaves? Does everyone agree this is thrips? Or could mites still be the bad guys?

You guys and all that knowledge you've got, rock btw. :cool: :peace: :bigjoint:
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
@Dr. Who I just want to start by saying that I'm sorry you had to witness that game in person. My condolences...Would've been a good week for Lions tickets. (That game was still a shit-show though)

Thank you all for your help so far, I can't say that enough. I've honestly never let my plants get this bad and am taking every step to prevent it again.

I'm not a fan of oils, I have to agree with the time/space-traveler here.

I am up-potting some and after the transplant stress I'm going to spray the forbid again, will that help if I do have thrips?

The room they are moving into is better protected and has been bombed recently. I'm treating the ladies before moving and keeping up on regular treatment until flower. I'm stubborn, these effing bugs are going to DIE.

Am I crazy thinking I can treat a thrip infestation? I've battled mites and have won, but thrips are a new monster to me. I'm still not seeing any of the little worms on the leaves? Does everyone agree this is thrips? Or could mites still be the bad guys?

You guys and all that knowledge you've got, rock btw. :cool: :peace: :bigjoint:
They are, and @Odin* is giving rock solid advise. Follow his suggestion.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Yes that is true. It is systemic and has an effective half life of 15 -18 days in aerobic soils. That increases to > 30 days in the plant. On plant surface use. The half life is from 2 -12 days on leaf surfaces. This time is dependent on the type of plant. It is degraded mainly by light exposure.

Personally, I never treat a plant to "prevent." If I don't "need" it. I don't use it. But that's simply my choice.
In hydro, If I were into flower (say 4-5 weeks) and had thrips ,which would you consider a better spinosad application:
Low dose addition to res as a systemic - (longer half-life but less likely to damage/discolor flowers and leaves)
or a foliar application - (shorter half-life but will possibly brown out flowers and leaves).
Reason I ask is I have used it before in flower (foliar spray) with great results, but it browned out the pistols and burned the leaves up a bit. I was thinking a systemic application may be a little more "gentle" so to speak. And would a systemic be as effective as a foliar application?
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
In hydro, If I were into flower (say 4-5 weeks) and had thrips ,which would you consider a better spinosad application:
Low dose addition to res as a systemic - (longer half-life but less likely to damage/discolor flowers and leaves)
or a foliar application - (shorter half-life but will possibly brown out flowers and leaves).
Reason I ask is I have used it before in flower (foliar spray) with great results, but it browned out the pistols and burned the leaves up a bit. I was thinking a systemic application may be a little more "gentle" so to speak. And would a systemic be as effective as a foliar application?
I would be inclined to be sure my solution was in plant comfortable pH range before application.
That sounds exactly like a pH foliar burn......You have to be careful with things like GreenCure and Sodium Bicarb for PM, for the same exact reason.

"I" would use the foliar and pH my solution to be "safe"...

You might call the company and speak with someone about concentrations in a hydro res......I mean, I get the soil drench but, hydro is a "not sure" area to me on this application of systemic's and uptake anyway.


That help?
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Yeah those pics you posted is thrip leaf damage. The webbing sounds more like mites.

Friends garden I was gonna take clones from had thrips he thought were fungus gnats. Lets just say I didnt take the clones. But I got to see the damage it left and it was very similar.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
I would be inclined to be sure my solution was in plant comfortable pH range before application.
That sounds exactly like a pH foliar burn......You have to be careful with things like GreenCure and Sodium Bicarb for PM, for the same exact reason.

"I" would use the foliar and pH my solution to be "safe"...

You might call the company and speak with someone about concentrations in a hydro res......I mean, I get the soil drench but, hydro is a "not sure" area to me on this application of systemic's and uptake anyway.


That help?
It does. I had browning of pistols with Greencure before so i'm all too familiar with that, but again it worked beautifully on my PM issue. I was lucky to be in early flower when it happened before with the thrips so I was just thinking of ways to get around any discoloration or burning of leaves if/when it happens again. To be honest I dont believe I ph corrected the water from tap before application so you may be onto something with that. -Thanks Doc
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Yeah those pics you posted is thrip leaf damage. The webbing sounds more like mites.

Friends garden I was gonna take clones from had thrips he thought were fungus gnats. Lets just say I didnt take the clones. But I got to see the damage it left and it was very similar.
I get your reserve on accepting those clones. Yet, FG's are way to simple to get rid of... Not a lot of work to get'em in solo's....I like Microlift. A BT product...

Seriously depends on how bad I would want that strain though.
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
I get your reserve on accepting those clones. Yet, FG's are way to simple to get rid of... Not a lot of work to get'em in solo's....I like Microlift. A BT product...

Seriously depends on how bad I would want that strain though.
It was a want of plants I could jist throw right in flower. They were big already. Wasnt really a strain that I had to have.
 

DirtDigginChick

Active Member
Update: I used the Forbid every 14 days since I received it and on opposite 14 day schedules I'm using the spinosad. Was able to fog my veg room and have moved more plants in, still spraying alternate sprays every 7 days. My plants completely bounced back and will be going into flower in two weeks so I'm no longer spraying the Forbid. I'm not seeing anymore signs of bugs but will continue with preventative measures. Thanks again for everyone who chimed in, I pretty much did a little of what everyone offered up as advice and it worked. You guys saved my girls! :weed:
 

Norby Grown

Well-Known Member
If thrips aren't coming in from the outside you can eradicate them by just placing a towel or insect row cover over the top of the pots. The larvae feeding on the leaves have to drop back into the soil to pupate. If you keep them from being able to do that you cut the life cycle and tehy just die off.
 

DirtDigginChick

Active Member
If thrips aren't coming in from the outside you can eradicate them by just placing a towel or insect row cover over the top of the pots. The larvae feeding on the leaves have to drop back into the soil to pupate. If you keep them from being able to do that you cut the life cycle and tehy just die off.
Would a good coating of DE work the same?
 

Norby Grown

Well-Known Member
I think so as long as you bottom water so the DE doesn't get wet or it'll cake up and not be effective or as effective, I think.
 
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