Should I just flush?

Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Using FFOF and Happy Frog as a medium mix CAN and WILL sustain a plant WITHOUT nutes up to week 5 . at preflower stage , I introduce a light VEG FEED until bloom officially has set after a week , then a Light Bloom feed until week 7 then flush. Water only for last weeks until harvest.

Let the soil exhaust itself BEFORE adding more feed. Much easier to judge what may be needed. Also many strains require different feeding requirements , what you feed one may not agree with the other. Adjust feed ONLY to the deficient plants not all of them.

You will more than likely feed them differently and separately as each strain may utilize each feeding differently. The yellowing plant is " pulling " nitrogen " from itself , and may need additional. Yellowing and drop off should happen later into the stage not this early. I would flush it , then use a bloom feed with some nitrogen ( not too much ) after a few days .

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hantastic1

hantastic1

Well-Known Member
im sure that soil used up all of its resources and the plant was hungry for more, but he gave it too little and the plant got hungry. end of story. time to feed heavy, and have a strong finish
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Weedenhanced, sorry you feel you need to cuss at me. I'm not a noob. It's true that lower leaves turn yellow when a plant is low on nitrogen, but in these photos we're seeing more than just lower leaves yellowing and the yellowing doesn't appear to be that of nitrogen deficiency. If you take a close look at the up close pics of the green leaves, you can see the leaf tips are turning yellow/brown. This is more common to over fert than under fert. Also, we're seeing some unusual light green coloring on some of the leaves that doesn't really look like under fert either. I stand by my assessment of over fert because of the leaf colors and because the grower states they have been adding fert to soil that already has fert in it from the factory. If you can't understand that, it is your problem. Why do you think the manufacturer's make and bag their own soil? It's because they make modifications by adding ferts and other things to essentially create their own product. It's not just bark bits and peat moss... the branding of these soils is being done because they are modified products. budzbuddah is the closest one to understanding this. I've seen nothing but foxfarm soil used for an entire grow that lasted weeks and the plants always showed a little leaf tip burn, but nothing else was needed and the plants finished great. But as I said earlier, it will be interesting to see what the grower does and its outcome. I suspect that the giving of more fert will cause the plants to get worse. And please don't cuss here; it's not smart.
 
weedenhanced

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
Weedenhanced, sorry you feel you need to cuss at me. I'm not a noob. It's true that lower leaves turn yellow when a plant is low on nitrogen, but in these photos we're seeing more than just lower leaves yellowing and the yellowing doesn't appear to be that of nitrogen deficiency. If you take a close look at the up close pics of the green leaves, you can see the leaf tips are turning yellow/brown. This is more common to over fert than under fert. Also, we're seeing some unusual light green coloring on some of the leaves that doesn't really look like under fert either. I stand by my assessment of over fert because of the leaf colors and because the grower states they have been adding fert to soil that already has fert in it from the factory. If you can't understand that, it is your problem. Why do you think the manufacturer's make and bag their own soil? It's because they make modifications by adding ferts and other things to essentially create their own product. It's not just bark bits and peat moss... the branding of these soils is being done because they are modified products. budzbuddah is the closest one to understanding this. I've seen nothing but foxfarm soil used for an entire grow that lasted weeks and the plants always showed a little leaf tip burn, but nothing else was needed and the plants finished great. But as I said earlier, it will be interesting to see what the grower does and its outcome. I suspect that the giving of more fert will cause the plants to get worse. And please don't cuss here; it's not smart.
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Dude cussin is part of my language we all big boys and if he does not get that plant nitrogen it will be fcked
Starving or not feeding a all rdy starving plant is not a good idea
I also agree with bud
And the use of cussing is not smart in what way do u think u r smart cause u don't use profanity and u wanna talk like u some type of intellectual
 
weedenhanced

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
Weedenhanced, sorry you feel you need to cuss at me. I'm not a noob. It's true that lower leaves turn yellow when a plant is low on nitrogen, but in these photos we're seeing more than just lower leaves yellowing and the yellowing doesn't appear to be that of nitrogen deficiency. If you take a close look at the up close pics of the green leaves, you can see the leaf tips are turning yellow/brown. This is more common to over fert than under fert. Also, we're seeing some unusual light green coloring on some of the leaves that doesn't really look like under fert either. I stand by my assessment of over fert because of the leaf colors and because the grower states they have been adding fert to soil that already has fert in it from the factory. If you can't understand that, it is your problem. Why do you think the manufacturer's make and bag their own soil? It's because they make modifications by adding ferts and other things to essentially create their own product. It's not just bark bits and peat moss... the branding of these soils is being done because they are modified products. budzbuddah is the closest one to understanding this. I've seen nothing but foxfarm soil used for an entire grow that lasted weeks and the plants always showed a little leaf tip burn, but nothing else was needed and the plants finished great. But as I said earlier, it will be interesting to see what the grower does and its outcome. I suspect that the giving of more fert will cause the plants to get worse. And please don't cuss here; it's not smart.
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Where is this nut burn wtf I see no sign of it at all there light green and the plant is eating it's self it's so plain man just admit u r wrong FFs stop being a dickwad
U know why leaves get yellow at end of flower ? Cause they suck all the remaining nuts out there leaves

So when u get a plant that is yellow at bottom and light green at top that should scream feed me
 
weedenhanced

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
Weedenhanced, sorry you feel you need to cuss at me. I'm not a noob. It's true that lower leaves turn yellow when a plant is low on nitrogen, but in these photos we're seeing more than just lower leaves yellowing and the yellowing doesn't appear to be that of nitrogen deficiency. If you take a close look at the up close pics of the green leaves, you can see the leaf tips are turning yellow/brown. This is more common to over fert than under fert. Also, we're seeing some unusual light green coloring on some of the leaves that doesn't really look like under fert either. I stand by my assessment of over fert because of the leaf colors and because the grower states they have been adding fert to soil that already has fert in it from the factory. If you can't understand that, it is your problem. Why do you think the manufacturer's make and bag their own soil? It's because they make modifications by adding ferts and other things to essentially create their own product. It's not just bark bits and peat moss... the branding of these soils is being done because they are modified products. budzbuddah is the closest one to understanding this. I've seen nothing but foxfarm soil used for an entire grow that lasted weeks and the plants always showed a little leaf tip burn, but nothing else was needed and the plants finished great. But as I said earlier, it will be interesting to see what the grower does and its outcome. I suspect that the giving of more fert will cause the plants to get worse. And please don't cuss here; it's not smart.
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Also since u so fucking pro show us some pics of ur grow
And I'll cuss where the fck I like u little cocksucking dumb fck
 
SamsonsRiddle

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
Whoever said it is a Nitrogen deficiency is right. Go back to your grow feed, but don't expect instant results. Nitrogen drop is a hard tail to chase. Try and keep your NPK at 3-1-2 roughly.

It's not called cussing, it's called strong language. If you don't like someone's strong language, then don't fucking read it!
 
tokalotapot

tokalotapot

Active Member
def nitrogen deficiency and maybe to much osmeotic pressure from the nutes and the plant cant pull nutes from a salt buildup. i woud wash the nutes out and reapply and balance your ph. the nute lock conclusion is the top green leaves in the pic #1 the tips all curl down. and you would have to be blind about the N bottom to top except new growth . so i suggest rinse your nutes out and rebalance them maybe you added to much on accident or not enough but this way it will be how it needs to be properly managed
 
tokalotapot

tokalotapot

Active Member
and foliar feed the leaves with nitrogen based nute to speed up that recovery because the rhyzosphere only utilizes up to 20% of the nutes and the foliar is near 95 % absortion rate then poof problem fixed in three days
 
tokalotapot

tokalotapot

Active Member
weedenhanced said:
Dude u can listen to these others but u need to feed ur plants I can see a massive nitrogen defiency and once u get one defiency it will block other nutrients from the plant cause u need certain nutrients for ur plant to uptake other nutrients
Seriously u only give ur plants nutrients every 3rd feed and u only feed once every 4 days that's 12 days between feeds fck
I feed my plants 100% recommend str not aggressive str but normal strength every feed in soil or perlite
U say u got some nuts in ur soil well i bet there all used up ur plant is eating it's self man do not flush and starve it more feed it
View attachment 3491464 They look healthy ?
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this looks over nuted based on the downward leaf curl at the tips and loss of leaf texture on the bottom. but a decent look, you must have a seperate flower tent based on there size right
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
This is entertaining!
You guys are bouncing all around the right answer and "flushing" is NOT one of the right things to do....
If you combined some of the answers, you would be just about right....

1: C99 is a Sativa, at least should be grown as one.
A: With that in mind there are 2 things to consider here.
B: One is that Sativa's can be fussy feeders.
C: Two is he started bloom nutes too soon for a Sativa. Week 4 (start of) would have been far better and maybe even a week later.
D: Result; The high P&K are restricting N uptake some.

2: The solution I would attempt (and your not going to get the damaged leaves to "recover". You will slow down or stop the progression - if it works) would be to.
A: Stop feeding for any P&K for 2 waterings. (bet you've done that)
B: Use (if I remember right) the B part 5-0-0 at 2/3 strength for those.
C: Return slowly to using the part with the P&K....and I mean 1/2 strength on those till week 6..

3: Feed less overall for the C99 or more depending on the plants "shown" need.....I suspect less will work with a bit more N.
(Taking another look at the pics)

Yup, I stand on my choice....
Your using a synthetic.....pH all in-going to 6.5 - 6.7 and do it every time....water or feed..

420mon had the best answers

Doc
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
everyone still fails to acknowledge the fact that the soils the grower used have ferts in them already. adding any nutrients is going to be a mistake. I'd just hit it with some water and see what happens. Leaves go yellow for different reasons, not just nitrogen deficiency. But again, it will be interesting to see what the grower does and what happens. Please come back and tell us this info so we know.
Weedenhanced, is that the best you can do? We've got some name calling now. Good job.
I think the high P and K are the problem. I've seen this pattern before. Phosphorus and Potassium toxicity.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
everyone still fails to acknowledge the fact that the soils the grower used have ferts in them already. adding any nutrients is going to be a mistake. I'd just hit it with some water and see what happens. Leaves go yellow for different reasons, not just nitrogen deficiency. But again, it will be interesting to see what the grower does and what happens. Please come back and tell us this info so we know.
Weedenhanced, is that the best you can do? We've got some name calling now. Good job.
I think the high P and K are the problem. I've seen this pattern before. Phosphorus and Potassium toxicity.
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Hey Pollack .... NO they don't any more. Not what they came with.....FFOF 30 - 40 days of nutrition then you need to feed.....He used that up in veg.....

So then the rest of it......did you actually read what I said? I don't think so,,,you said part of what I did.....the important part..


OP do what I said and be happy with the result...
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Dr.who, in an earlier post I explained that I've seen nothing but FF soil used for the duration of a grow and it worked by itself just fine. I don't know about the duration of soil is 30-40 days. Complicating this is the fact that the grower states they mixed Dr. Earth soil and happy frog as well, which may not mean much, or it might bring changes to the FF soil that could be too much. I understand you think the ferts are used up but what kind of proof do you have? Do the companies say their soils are only good for 30 days? I have to ask because I've seen FF last for more than 60 days, so I'm curious how you know. I haven't used happy frog soil, but have been told that it will last a very long time. I read your post, just disagree with some of it. I'm not sure that nitrogen is needed even though lower leaves are yellow. This plant's yellowing really doesn't follow the pattern of low nitrogen. Leaves go yellow when too much fert is given and can confuse people into thinking that nitrogen is needed when the truth is that leaves go yellow due to many different reasons - it just shows that they are dying, but no necessarily the cause. To jump to a conclusion that more fert is needed just based on yellowing may not be the best thing to do, especially if you know that the soil used already carries fert. And calling people cocksucking dumb fck in this forum isn't the best thing either. (not that you did this).
 
hellmutt bones

hellmutt bones

Well-Known Member
Op you have some kind of nute issue by the way the yellow leafs look and the main indicator is the way the tips look its a sight of too much nutes or ph imbalances thats causing lock out in one area and over compensating in another.
I would definetly suggest to check ph and then flush just a bit and see what is the exact cause.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
high nutrient amounts will create pH imbalance. Trying to correct the pH won't solve anything. You have to use ferts properly to prevent pH problems. When I say I've seen FFOF last for 60 days (more actually) it was because the grower used large containers for the soil, so there was a lot of it that the plant was grown in. That's why it worked.
 
tokalotapot

tokalotapot

Active Member
Dr. Who said:
This is entertaining!
You guys are bouncing all around the right answer and "flushing" is NOT one of the right things to do....
If you combined some of the answers, you would be just about right....

1: C99 is a Sativa, at least should be grown as one.
A: With that in mind there are 2 things to consider here.
B: One is that Sativa's can be fussy feeders.
C: Two is he started bloom nutes too soon for a Sativa. Week 4 (start of) would have been far better and maybe even a week later.
D: Result; The high P&K are restricting N uptake some.

2: The solution I would attempt (and your not going to get the damaged leaves to "recover". You will slow down or stop the progression - if it works) would be to.
A: Stop feeding for any P&K for 2 waterings. (bet you've done that)
B: Use (if I remember right) the B part 5-0-0 at 2/3 strength for those.
C: Return slowly to using the part with the P&K....and I mean 1/2 strength on those till week 6..

3: Feed less overall for the C99 or more depending on the plants "shown" need.....I suspect less will work with a bit more N.
(Taking another look at the pics)

Yup, I stand on my choice....
Your using a synthetic.....pH all in-going to 6.5 - 6.7 and do it every time....water or feed..

420mon had the best answers

Doc
Click to expand...
exactly which is over ferted and locked up in a dormented phase also with the wrong nutes as stated by the original user
 
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