Sick dawg please help ph/nute lockout?

PLANT IS DYING AFTER SLEDGEHAMMER FLUSH.
Growing Chemdawg from clone indoor using Fox Farms nutes in indoor soil mix (not FF) in 7 gal pots. also using Great White mycorrhizae powder.
water every 3-4 days when topsoil dry feed every other watering.
i was feeding at 1/2 strength and upped to full strength a couple weeks ago.
flushed 4 days ago with Fox Farms sledgehammer (2tsp/gal) and thats when it got REALLY bad.
i lowered the water to a PH of 6 before adding the sledgehammer.. dunno if that was good.
leaves withered up (looked like over watering) and then blackened on the tips, the bottom of one of my plants is pretty much completely dead. leaves withered up and pretty much blackened to mush while others just fell off. remaining stems are weak. ive read MULTIPLE bad experiences with sledgehammer flushes, i didnt flush with any water after the sledgehammer the first day i flushed.
flushed again today with 5+ more gal of water only (PH7) today till runoff was clear. seem to be doing a little "better"...
plants have been in veg for about 4 months
i had bugs, some flying and some not, which i thought were aphids that i have been treating with heavy neem sprays. usually when i spray i will see very few if any, maybe 2 or 3 of them. topsoil looks healthy but i did see them in it and sprayed the topsoil with neem as well.
any advise or input is very much appreciated.

fucking root aphids... are these even worth wasting power to flower or are they going to just die? is there anything i can do? too late for aphid predators to save um?

unfortunatly, she looks to have had it.

I really cant say what happened, but could your plant have root rot from over watering? and why are you flushing in veg- or, are you in flower?

yo man if i was you i would just repot your plant its showing that you are have some kind of nute burn i would just repot but before rise my roots to see the condition then saok with some super thrive then then use a rooting solution like root n grow then you should be fine these plants can take a lickin a keep on ticking that if you want to save your hard work on this one.

they are in veg, flushing before moving to flower as per FF sched.

I believe the is a RIU user by the name of Hiesenberg; he has a recipe for a beneficial-brew that will help with root-rot.
Also, maybe looking into the use of H2O2 will help

just to update.. this problem ended up being fucking root aphids, which i am still battling. they killed 4/6 of those plants to the point of no return. flower room didnt get infested. new veg plants which i transplanted with a bag of (infested?)dirt i had left over from my last run are now starting the same shit. i just finally positively identified them and unfortunately there doesnt appear to be a sure cure out there. i have sprayed my top soil with pyrethrum conc/mix and neem oil not knowing what i was killing, it is apparent i have to do a full soil drench to get them which i did today with Spinosad . hopefully i didnt dose too heavy.. which i do believe i may have. i mixed at the recommended "spray mix" dilution of 2oz/gal and watered until significant runoff. i have also switched to Soul Synthetics after the Sledgehammer flush i blamed or the initial root aphid destruction.

so far the Spinosad drench appears to atleast have made an impact with no visible negative side effects, plants actually perked up. hundreds of DEAD "Phylloxera" aka - Root Aphids (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phylloxera) of all stages (larva-fliers) poured ran out of the drain holes. (they were swimming and crawling through the neem and pyrethrin spray i applied previously) Spinosad causes paralysis before killing so they were immediately immobilized and stopped feeding atleast. i have been researching and reading about these bugs for over a month and finally found some usable info i would like to pass on to anyone reading this with this problem... https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503 and https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=159960 are both VERY informative VERY long threads on this issue. it appears Imidacloprid (Bayer Tree&Shrub etc) is the choice effective chemical approach when no organic solution works. i will be purchasing some IMID tomorrow and applying as i would rather take my chance with a bit of chemicals than hope for the best.

Stop using neem its not helping bro , maybe this article could help- https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=159960
You just MAY have root-aphids, the best kept worst secret of indoor growing.

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Discussion of my experience - unaware of the problem (I thought mag-deficiency) not knowing about aphids]:
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My experience lately has been the same with my last 6+ grows in two different rooms in my house with multiple different strains and in a number of different mediums (coco, soil, hydro in hydroton, hydro in coco croutons) and with different nutrient lines (Cutting Edge, GH, Canna Coco A&B, Humbolt Master Bloom).

In every case, in each location and with every medium/nutrient line I have the SAME problems either in late veg or early bloom, not long (1-3 weeks) after I put them under HPS light. After they look extremely healthy throughout VEG, I start to see a leaf here and there with random "blotches," generally at or near the leaf edges, then at the tips - patches where the leaf is papery, tan and obviously dead. Then the patches grow larger, progress to all tips of the leaf which often curl (when dead). Then many other leaves start taking on a bit of a sickly look, getting intervenal chlorosis and becoming more translucent and turning a lighter, more sickly green. Then most of the well-established, healthy fan leaves (middle-aged) all start to "get it" and die of progressively, while the plant continues to grow and put out new shoots on the main growth points. When it is really bad, most of the leaves die off before I can even bloom and last time it happened I scrapped the ENTIRE round.

The dead leaves imo are from too much neem coating both sides suffocating them.

*BUDS said:

The dead leaves imo are from too much neem coating both sides suffocating them.

Click to expand...

*first of all neem applied to one side of the leaf would be ineffective as it does not work systematically.
that may be a problem in some cases. (ive never heard of that problem and i personally have HEAVILY applied WAY more neem that the "recommended" dose as other i know have with no ill side effects.) not this one. there was a thread (https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/439341-dish-soap-spinosad.html) where someone sprayed with Spinosad and dishsoap and they were trying to blame the bleach content in the soap for the decaying leaves. everyone who has actually identified the problem as root aphids appears to be experiencing the same symptoms including all stages of the leaf death. the plants at the beginning of this thread were the only ones i have heavily applied neem to, i had one before that this happened to, never pinpointed the problem and never knew why it just rotted away 2-3 weeks into flower. France's solution to them after it killed 9/10 grape vineyards in 1889 involved grafting a Vitis vinifera scion onto the roots of a resistant Vitis aestivalis or other American native species, unfortunately apparently alot of Californian vineyard planters thought they were immune to the plagues of the rest of the word and decided to use a PROVEN FAILED rootstock called AxR1. i personally believe this "new" plague is a result of such mutation and FURTHER resistance.. "Use of a resistant, or tolerant, rootstock, developed by Charles Valentine Riley in collaboration with J. E. Planchon and promoted by T. V. Munson, involved grafting a Vitis vinifera scion onto the roots of a resistant Vitis aestivalis or other American native species. This is the preferred method today, because the rootstock does not interfere with the development of the wine grapes, and it furthermore allows the customization of the rootstock to soil and weather conditions, as well as desired vigor. Unfortunately not all rootstocks are equally resistant. Between the 1960s and the 1980s in California, many growers used a rootstock called AxR1. Even though it had already failed in many parts of the world by the early twentieth century, it was thought to be resistant by growers in California. Although phylloxera initially did not feed heavily on AxR1 roots, within twenty years, mutation and selective pressures within the phylloxera population began to overcome this rootstock, resulting in the eventual failure of most vineyards planted on AxR1. The replanting of afflicted vineyards continues today." I hope i am wrong.

Spinosad did not work. applying Imidacloprid 1.47% in the form of Bayer Tree and Shrub protect and feed. according to the phylloxera pesticide effectiveness chart (which i did not see before: http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/grapeipm/Pesticide.htm) it looks like if the Imidacloprid does not work then cyflutherin, or endosulfan (which it says is highly toxic and being phased out globally) appear to be the only pesticides avail without a license that is effective in controlling phylloxera, there are no known organic alternatives that have been proven effective.