Sick plants-----Stumped Grower????

ynkessuck247

Active Member
If you are going to do a p.H runoff test make sure that you do it the right way.

Water in with a 7.0 p.h and let it runoff. Use the amount of water equivalent to your pots then wait till it stops leaching. Once it stops apply the same amount of water at a neutral p.H (7.0) collect the runoff from that and measure the p.h. this would allow for a proper p.h measurement of your soil.

I think the mites, have little to do with your situation, they can transmit virus but it doesn't seem like thats your problem.
 

mreeeee

Member
i could be wrong but i think its a combination of nitrogen abundance .slightly low humidity due to under watering . if you have a meter for testing nute strengths in ec or ppm check that as well as ph of runoff might be nute build up in soil .good flush should sort it .
 

Big leave

Member
Ok the Ph initial drainage was 5.8 to 6.0 between all 4 of the sick plants.

i fallowed the recommendations of ynkessuck247. i balanced the water up to 6.8-7.0 and ran 15-20 gal over the sickies. i kept testing the water till the drainage was right around 6.2. i made sure there was perfect drainage. i even shop vacuumed all excess water so the soil wouldn't sit in ANY stagnate water.

i didn't smell any odor in the drained water.

now that they are super wet and soaked, what do you think i should do from here? what would my next step be? we are still in wk 4 of flower. and temps are 77deg all day and 68 at night.
i really appreciate all the help!!
 

Big leave

Member
i could be wrong but i think its a combination of nitrogen abundance .slightly low humidity due to under watering . if you have a meter for testing nute strengths in ec or ppm check that as well as ph of runoff might be nute build up in soil .good flush should sort it .

I do not know of a Nute. tester.
that would be a handy tool!
 

Big leave

Member
If you are going to do a p.H runoff test make sure that you do it the right way.

Water in with a 7.0 p.h and let it runoff. Use the amount of water equivalent to your pots then wait till it stops leaching. Once it stops apply the same amount of water at a neutral p.H (7.0) collect the runoff from that and measure the p.h. this would allow for a proper p.h measurement of your soil.

I think the mites, have little to do with your situation, they can transmit virus but it doesn't seem like thats your problem.
so in total how much water do you run through each pot?
 

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
Hello every, and thanks advance!

so i am having some problems with just some of my flowering plants. 4 out of 10.

i am fairly new to growing,

i have 12x12x10 flower room. 4 1k watt Raptor XXXL lights. the room is painted with the reflective paint to give the best light i can. i have a wall AC unit but it is turned off due to the low temps around here. 30 to 40% perc. humidity. couple of wall fans and no Co2 because the Temp switches will kick on bringing in cool fresh air to regulate the high temps. temps did get low about 15 days ago. they were 55-65 deg. in the dark and 78-80deg in the light. the temps worried me so we installed a heater and more temp switches. now were good, around 78-80 in the day and 68 to 70 @ night.

Plants: all are in soil.
I have 4 plants in training rails with trellis netting and all trimmed and trained with 64 tops. these have been in the 15 gall pots for 4 months. they were beautiful. the rest (6) are in 5 gall pots and have been for 2 months. these are tall lollie popped and topped.

15 days ago i mixed up 25 gall as usually (this was week 2 in flower). all plants were perfect!! but this is when the temps dipped low.

I think my problems started here.
for this many plants in normal temps this would be normal so i fallowed my procedure.
mixed the House and garden nutrients in 25 gall of water. the 4 plants in training rails have lots of drainage. the rest sit in saucers on the floor. watered 10 plants with 25 gall evenly. i would water when plants are light and soil is dry.
the six non-trained plants would sit in water for a few hours after then it would be absorbed by the soil. the 4 would drain all excess immediately.

i then checked in 2 days later and the 4 plants looked sad and droopy. soil was dry and ready for water but i was concerned so i cut back on how much i soaked these ones. about 1.5 literes ea.


2 days later they looked worse, more droopy and leaves were pointing down...... all the others were perfect and Ragging. already had fist sized colas @ week 3 in flower. but the sickies have penny sized nuggs...

i waited to water the (4) Ill plants for 6 days till the soil was very light. i was trying to avoid root rot. now theres some yellowing going on with the big leaves. no more nugg growth. again all others are beautiful.
i watered 1.5 liters of water with nutes to the sick plants and i have seen nothing but deterioration.



i dont know whats going on... these 4 are not looking good. last harvest (same procedure) each plant made 1.6 lbs avg per plant. i dont think i will see half that ....


i was thinking hydrogen peroxide??? re pot??? did the cold temps piss them off???


here are some pics, not very good though. theres more yellowing than the cam would get as i used the flash in the dark.

any input would be much appreciated!
thanks


View attachment 2485011View attachment 2485012View attachment 2485013View attachment 2485014
My idea, I don't like the sound of letting the water sit and get drawn back in, but those are the good looking ones, right?
The other thing I keyed in on, was you mentioned was 25 gal/ 10 pots evenly.
That means a 15 gal. pot is getting 2.5 gal., and a 5 gal. pot is also getting 2.5 gal.?
All those leaves look really dark like a LOT of N though, and I've always noticed for me, too much N slows down the flowering.
Good explanation of your problem and great job on the plants though.:clap:
 

Big leave

Member
My idea, I don't like the sound of letting the water sit and get drawn back in, but those are the good looking ones, right?
The other thing I keyed in on, was you mentioned was 25 gal/ 10 pots evenly.
That means a 15 gal. pot is getting 2.5 gal., and a 5 gal. pot is also getting 2.5 gal.?
All those leaves look really dark like a LOT of N though, and I've always noticed for me, too much N slows down the flowering.
Good explanation of your problem and great job on the plants though.:clap:


Thanks!!
yea the healthy ones have been drawing water back in. the sick ones have good drainage....this added to my confusion.


i was giving the the plants in 15 gall pot more than the plants that are in 5 gall pots... sorry i could have explained that better.


is there away to test for nitrogen levels?
 

ynkessuck247

Active Member
so in total how much water do you run through each pot?
A fair amount, you do not want to flush the soil. 10 gal pots should receive enough gals of water until sufficient leaching has occured. Then wait until runoff stops, apply more water for the second leaching, and this is the runoff water you will use to measure ur p.H 4oz of collected runoff from the second leaching is a good amount to use for gaging ur soil p.H

make sure you use a neutral p.H
 

spandy

Well-Known Member
i could be wrong but i think its a combination of nitrogen abundance .
I was gonna say nitrogen too. Leaves look pretty dark green to me, maybe ph imbalance is causing lockout?

Flush it, start lower dose of nutes. And dont just let it suck all that crap back up from the tray, you should have ample run off each time you water. The trays are for after you water for the little bit of dripping that may go on, not to hold standing water.
 

ynkessuck247

Active Member
You could be suffering from minor Phosphorous Def.!!! rather than Nitrogen abundance. The temps before you got the heater would attribute to this. Do the leaves look more of a purplish green?
 

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
You could be suffering from minor Phosphorous Def.!!! rather than Nitrogen abundance. The temps before you got the heater would attribute to this. Do the leaves look more of a purplish green?
I was thinking that, but he'd have to have several consecutive nights in the low low 40's for that, at least that's what it took for me when I got P lockout.
 

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
Thanks!!
yea the healthy ones have been drawing water back in. the sick ones have good drainage....this added to my confusion.


i was giving the the plants in 15 gall pot more than the plants that are in 5 gall pots... sorry i could have explained that better.


is there away to test for nitrogen levels?
I'm not into all the testers and stuff, so IDK, sorry.
 

Big leave

Member
You dont want them sitting in trays of water. The runoff should run strait out of the pots. They look a little over watered. Give them a little hydrogen peroxide. They look reasonably healthy otherwise. Might want to drop the PH a little, maybe down to the high 5s.

Bugs? Go onto ebay and get some Forbid 4f. 1 ml makes a whole gallon and one spraying cures your problem. With Avid, they will come back because it doesn't kill the eggs. You only have to spray it once per crop and it kills for 6 weeks AND you only have to spray it on top of the leaves.

Get Forbid 4f Here

Forbid is strong stuff and you CANNOT USE IT DURING FLOWERING. You will have to wait til next crop is vegetating before you can use it, but I tell you this. It will save you months or years of pain and save many crops. Mites are a motherfucker to get rid of once you have them.


do you know the mix ratio of Hydrogen perox. to give the plants?

thanks for the info on the Forbid!
 

Big leave

Member
Plants are looking better, the yellowing has stopped and more green color is coming back. Although the leaves are not perking up to much. But there's a lot of growth in the Nuggs.

The local hydro salesman sold me on some nutrient called VerminT. He said best way to ease the plants back to nutes would be ph'd water and the Vermi-T.

Has anybody tried this product? Any input?http://www.vermicrop.com/products/vermitsolution.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
OK, what did you do to make them start getting better?
Did you change only one thing, or multiple things so now you have to guess which one solved the problem?:wink:
I've done that before, not with plants, but I've done that:-|
 

indikat

Well-Known Member
I had this problem when I used plastic pots and overwatered causing low O2 at the root zone, I now use smart pots with airlines running underneath and outside ventilation blowing on the root zone...I no longer see the effect illustrated in your photos, beautiful plants btw glad they is healin...peace :)
 
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