Side by Side of Organibliss

So I met the organibliss guy at the Grand Rapids show a few weeks ago and they were also at the roostertail. When I talked to them at the GR conference they said they would be interested in doing a trail package for me if I did a field test. The stuff came today and I will be taking a bunch of cuts for the comparison run in the next few days to a week. Here is all the stuff they sent me, pretty nice package and protocol with a free pump applicator.
I'll get some pictures of the pump and the juice a little later. I am thinking I will roll with qrazy train on this one for the first. By this friday I will have made my cuts. I expect to have 2 of each total of 4 on the trial run and I will take 6-8 cuts to make that happen. My usual MO is to take the cuts, leave them in the aeroponic cloner for 2 weeks roughly then into small pint/quart size pots for a month. This is the point I will pick them and start the journaling when I pick them and transplant into my 3.5 gallon pots. bout 2-4 weeks veg and we're off for a total of 12 weeks. Ironlabs will doing the testing. I think I will do the potency and the pestacide testing at the end and count the total dry product for all 4 of them.

very interesting

Increase yield up to 82%. fuck.
I've been waiting hard core for you to start doing some experimenting.
You have the lab rat gene, can't wait to see this one.
Best of luck to you brother.

I am going to say I'm WAY pessimistic on that one. If one percent of what they say is true then it's a no brainer to add it in but there are some bold claims in there. OH-the soil! I mixed it last week, fuck I'll take a picture of that too but its an organic mix I'm going to do this run without nutrients. no fox farms at all; I've bee weening myself off them lately, slowly adding more to my base soil and cooking it longer. So the mix is this:
1 part vermiculite
1 part perlite
1 part peat moss
4 parts top soil from home depot-organic planters pride
for every 30 gallon trash can there is:
5 lbs to 10 lbs wiggle worm worm casting
1 cup Jamaican bat guano sun leaves brand
1 cup Mexican bat guano also sun leaves
1 cup bone meal
1 cup blood meal
1 cup dolomite lime
I did a comparison with acids that is finishing up now I didn't journal but its showing that re-use of this soil needs lots of peat moss added back in but viable as well as almost no supplements necessary to survive. dry weight comparison not done yet so I can't say it's as good as with fox farms but no deficiency showed on them so it'll work for this perfectly. leaves room for the product to improve yield if it truely does.

that's the product. tiny amount in the bottle goes a LONG way. that's a 1 oz bottle.

michigan made

Why add peat back in??

The peat breaks down super fast. the soil is like concrete without it. That's how this re-use is doesn't hold together well or hold water for any mount of time. Even if it breaks down I like it better than coco.

I had to google oganibliss just to find out what this stuff was, their site sounds like the Advanced Nutrients marketing time wrote it. "Average increase yield of 55.61%" lol! There are dozens of products like this that i immediately write off as total bullshit but i'm glad you're actually doing a controlled test on this Corey.

Are you going to be watering with it too or just foliar feeding?

Water. no nutes. organic soil. we shall see....

Gonna sub this beeotch.

Maybe because you don't have worms? My no till is nice and fluffy a week or so after I pull a plant. Maybe bc my mix is peat based to begin with though. i will post pics maybe journal a reused bucket here real soon.

I have worked with the company and I do like the product but did not find it to be of worth for regular usage .. It worked on some old houseplants and gave them missing vigor slightly but I did not find any conclusive results to make me want to purchase this product ..

When I was a moderator at GreenPassion the company became a regular advertiser and they passed out a lot of samples for testing there , I dont recommend using it as a pesticide though as others did following the companies advice but none the less there is plenty of info there to read on it . Michigan Made and I like this so I keep a bottle for the rare plant ...PotSnob

It's been decided, chernobyl will be the cultivar. I took 6, I hope for 4 in cups looking nice and uniform and when I move them to the 3.5 gallon I will have picked 2 for the study. I reserve the right to pick 4 if there are 4 uniform nice samples but hopes are 2 very close matches.

Cory and trevor said:

I am going to say I'm WAY pessimistic on that one. If one percent of what they say is true then it's a no brainer to add it in but there are some bold claims in there. OH-the soil! I mixed it last week, fuck I'll take a picture of that too but its an organic mix I'm going to do this run without nutrients. no fox farms at all; I've bee weening myself off them lately, slowly adding more to my base soil and cooking it longer. So the mix is this:
1 part vermiculite
1 part perlite
1 part peat moss
4 parts top soil from home depot-organic planters pride
for every 30 gallon trash can there is:
5 lbs to 10 lbs wiggle worm worm casting
1 cup Jamaican bat guano sun leaves brand
1 cup Mexican bat guano also sun leaves
1 cup bone meal
1 cup blood meal
1 cup dolomite lime
I did a comparison with acids that is finishing up now I didn't journal but its showing that re-use of this soil needs lots of peat moss added back in but viable as well as almost no supplements necessary to survive. dry weight comparison not done yet so I can't say it's as good as with fox farms but no deficiency showed on them so it'll work for this perfectly. leaves room for the product to improve yield if it truely does.

Click to expand...

Cory, a little off topic but I'll toss it out there anyway. I've been doing a ton of reading on organic soil mixes lately, and the consensus from the old-heads seems to be that dolomite lime is not needed for your soil, and can in fact cause problems (too much magnesium). It is very slow release, and it's main benefit to the soil would be adding cal-mag (chances are you don't need it anyway) and to be a ph buffer for your peat based soil. The problem is that the magnesium in DL is initially magnesium carbonate. You want magnesium sulfate (epsom salts), and the calcium you are looking for is already there in abundance with the earth worm castings you have added.

A rock dust mix (glacial rock dust, bentonite, oyster shell, basalt) seems to be the preferred ingredient(s).

C&T--

where are the micronutrients in your mix? not tryin to bust ur balls-

i don't see any rock dusts.....??

micro nutrients are important t for the finish-

Rrog is a Buddha and very concious.....his organic thread is full of gold....

--->we want to see your yung self succeed here since you have been here thru most of the shit-
and your enthusiasm is inspiring for us old timers

have you ran this mix before?
how did it go?

this is your first run with organic soil?

myself I would have ran a little stronger ammendments in a 30 gl mix....
and more perlite for the fluff (25% minimal)
maybe 2cups instead of one to keep a strong feed with just good water...

that is why I always add up my "macro" numbers to see if I may have a deficiency before I start--

20-15-8 ...not good enough for me
20-8-15....not
20-15-15 good!

and then the micros....
home depot has a product called ironite that is organic and has all the micros
you can scratch it in and top dress if need be
and if you have any deficiencies with an organic mix you can always scratch a top dressing in to help
thats the nice forgiving thing about soil

I always use pro mix to fluff it up

i call it the "pussy test"
....your finger should penetrate the soil nice and easy like your girlfriend ...
then you know you will have a nice medium for roots to expand...it should never harden

its all about the fade in organic mixes..
.go read subcools thread about the fade...
I know folks don't like him but-
you want the fade to happen just when the finish starts.....the yellowing

when you do an organic mix of soil you want to allow the plants enough amount of food to go thru the whole cycle with just water

if the deficiencies happen it will usually be in your middle game...
that will affect your end game and finnish

i have rarely used bottled mixes for much--some fish emulsions when I want more N-

i did run botanicare products for quite awhile because I worked for some of them and saw how organic most of their stuff was at the time..
until they had that rift that created "organicare"---lol

keep us posted on your lab-

i never trust anything in a bottle tho that makes claims I am not sure of....

like that fix your motor stuff they sell you when you blow a head gasket?

comon ....?....fix your motor in a bottle ?
or increase yield 82.6%...??

its all about the magician.....not the wand-

st0wandgrow said:

Cory, a little off topic but I'll toss it out there anyway. I've been doing a ton of reading on organic soil mixes lately, and the consensus from the old-heads seems to be that dolomite lime is not needed for your soil, and can in fact cause problems (too much magnesium). It is very slow release, and it's main benefit to the soil would be adding cal-mag (chances are you don't need it anyway) and to be a ph buffer for your peat based soil. The problem is that the magnesium in DL is initially magnesium carbonate. You want magnesium sulfate (epsom salts), and the calcium you are looking for is already there in abundance with the earth worm castings you have added.

A rock dust mix (glacial rock dust, bentonite, oyster shell, basalt) seems to be the preferred ingredient(s).

Click to expand...

ha funy stow- read my post^^^^
we were close to the same page...


oyster shell will stavbalize your soil for PH along with some of the rock dusts too-
and give you the calcium the plants crave....egg shells from the kitchen too-

the dolomite AG lime is to sweeten your soil and break down the food to make it soluble and available for the gurls

dolomite breaks stuff down.....

ever see the nazi movies where they are sprinkling that white shit on the bodies....?

that is lime-

and it actually depends if you use the flour grade or the slow release pellet type
the flour grade breaks down quickly and dissipates quickly....,

i always use the flour grade and let it cook along time...your right about the slow release pellets

Throw in some crab or shrimp shell meal with what buck and stow added and you will be really rocking I'll bet. And maybe some biochar?

I've run it (the soil) many times before. without anything but water I get about 2-2.75 ounce per plant (.5 grams/watt) with fox farms full line it's closer to 4 per plant and almost 1g/watt with my high yielder. With water only it's got the best chance to showcase anything the product actually does. At least that was my thinking. Been doing this base soil since I ripped it off Ed back in the day. little changes here and there but KISS to the maximum. Read TLO stocking up on pieces and parts but now is not the time to do anything but what I know well in a side by side test. constructive criticisms always welcome

Oh I got ya...so you are gonna do a full on run w nematodes and char etc here soon. didn't wanna come off like I was busting balls either bud I know you got those crunchy nugs over there