Slow maturation of Buds under LED

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Explain DLI, I understand why you guys abreviate, but I am a forum newbie. Haven't had to ask for much help ...
Not sure why people are using DLI. It makes no sense when growing under a light. Just something new and cool I suppose.

It's easier to simply use PPFD and normally everybody does that. Or "did" until a few weeks ago.
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Can you read these two pictures?
They contain all the information you need to create a perfect environment.View attachment 4001249 View attachment 4001250
It's the same chart actually. Or rather the bottom one is a polished up version of the 25C line from the top one.

It's a chart for leaves in a growth chamber though. In practice it seems to work slightly different if you try to relate yield to PPFD. Actual grows seem to have a much more linear relation to light intensity. Especially between 500 and 1000 PPFD.

For maturation of buds it's said light spectrum might have some influence too. More red and especially far red would supposedly speed up flowering. Although I've seen other comparison grows where there was no to negligible difference between grows with a different spectrum. Personally I have seen hardly any difference in flowering duration using far red, but that was only applying end-of-day far red.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Far-red EOD accelerates ripening only if I remain strictly at 12/12. If I go to 13/11 or 14/10 there is no acceleration anymore.
I got my best results at constant 79-83°F during the day with Ø 800-900μMol/s 3k/CRI80, night values are 68-72°F.
The additional far-red from CRI90 seems to have better effects to acceletate ripening as only EOD treadment, especially if you extend the day length.
But is also depends on the used strain, not all plants profits from far-red in the same way. Lot's of comparision threads in the last few months here and I would say there is a 60:40 chance that the selected strain will react positively to CRI90/far-red.
Since I am strongly limited in height, I remain at ra80 and only ~ 2000-3000μMol DOD, to cause no additional stretching.
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Far-red EOD accelerates ripening only if I remain strictly at 12/12. If I go to 13/11 or 14/10 there is no acceleration anymore.
Ah that could be it. I made the days a bit longer too, hoping that would speed up the grow as well.

Since I am strongly limited in height, I remain at ra80 and only ~ 2000-3000μMol DOD, to cause no additional stretching.
Indeed. Plus I also see the 80 CRI harvesting slightly bigger yields especially when the grow is shortened on the 90 CRI side.
 

DrBlaze

Well-Known Member
I also see the 80 CRI harvesting slightly bigger yields especially when the grow is shortened on the 90 CRI side.

Indeed? Please elaborate. I'm putting together 1200w of 90cri bars atm. In a couple months I plan to order another 1200w worth, I will need to decide whether to continue with all 90cri or make my next purchase 80cri and redo everything with a mixture of both.
 

kristoffolese

Well-Known Member
yes because leds lack IR and leaf temp will be lower than you are used to

with that much light id say 80 degrees minimum air temp. 85 or more if running CO2

plant metabolism is highly related to temperature and if you look at the classic ppfd at different temps graph that goes around, all ppfds peak at about 30C (86F)
Wow, 85? Really? My ladies seem to start curling starting at ~82F
 

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
Check your ppfd lower lumens per meter reduces production. Lower lights if not too hot
What about flower humidity?: I had thought early flower was around 50 to 53% and tapering down later in flower to 40 to 45%/

GrowMau5 had a recent video testing Mammoth and another root jucie and he was running 60% RH during his grow?! 60% seems a bit high.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Ah that could be it. I made the days a bit longer too, hoping that would speed up the grow as well.

Indeed. Plus I also see the 80 CRI harvesting slightly bigger yields especially when the grow is shortened on the 90 CRI side.
+1
if shortened by a week there is a lot of time and light the plants can not use. They finished earlier but most of the time with less final weight. Maybe if we increase the DLI to equalize this we would get the same yield.
But for me, it's also strain depended, some strains profits from CRI90, some not...
For now I'm back to the eighties... Badabuhdatdatdada...

 

DrBlaze

Well-Known Member
. They finished earlier but most of the time with less final weight. Maybe if we increase the DLI to equalize this we would get the same yield.
I've been thinking a lot about this, and there hasn't been a lot of feedback on here about this. Since I first heard about (potential) earlier finishing times, I've been wondering how we could be getting something for nothing. It has always seemed to me that there would be a trade-off.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
My old Cree 3500°k/CRI80 with some additional Osram hyperreds... but currently summer break.

But plans for two 3000°k Nextlight Mini copycats with F-Series strips already exsists ..
16x 2ft strips, 8p2s circuit and a HLG-185H-48A to run all the strips @400mA.
192+lm/w and 181+lm/w system eff. according to Samsungs calculator.
864 diodes @ 44,44mA per lamp.
 

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FREEK1

Well-Known Member
yeah i like 80s, some people like 70s. 60s are bad news growth is slow and deficiencies seem to creep in from lack of transpiration/uptake
Just purchases a better fan controller to turn my exhaust fans lower... winter is coming and would like to be in the 78-83 range!
 

RandomHero8913

Well-Known Member
I don't know what a COB array is or what Cree 3070 is but I can tell you that 3000-4500k is not the spectrum you should be in. Unless I'm mistaken, optimal kelvin ratings should be 5000-6500k for plant growth & 2700-3000 for flowering. Your working with a kelvin rating that will produce growth but that growth will be slow and not efficient. That said, I have found that with LED's it takes a couple extra weeks for maturation, which is why I was reading this post. Frankly I'm confused as to why nobody else picked up on the fact that you have the wrong lights.
You're mistaken.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Could you please expand on that some?
k temps are just different gradients of white [full spectrum] light....some have a little more red, more blue, than others etc....all white light should work well...too much blue, too much red, can cause problems and cause smiles.....

photon delivery is more important or should say, imho should come first then spectrum....you can have the greatest spectrum in the world, but if its dim, its worthless...

Also
each plant is different, mixing light isn't a bad thing, might teach you a thing or two :joint:
 

DrBlaze

Well-Known Member
I don't know what a COB array is or what Cree 3070 is but I can tell you that 3000-4500k is not the spectrum you should be in. Unless I'm mistaken, optimal kelvin ratings should be 5000-6500k for plant growth & 2700-3000 for flowering. Your working with a kelvin rating that will produce growth but that growth will be slow and not efficient. That said, I have found that with LED's it takes a couple extra weeks for maturation, which is why I was reading this post. Frankly I'm confused as to why nobody else picked up on the fact that you have the wrong lights.
Gotta say that this is pretty much what I thought when I read the first post. He went from flowering under approx 2000K hps to flowering under 3750-4000K. I would expect them to take longer to finish than what he was used to.
 
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