Not sure why people are using DLI. It makes no sense when growing under a light. Just something new and cool I suppose.Explain DLI, I understand why you guys abreviate, but I am a forum newbie. Haven't had to ask for much help ...
It's the same chart actually. Or rather the bottom one is a polished up version of the 25C line from the top one.Can you read these two pictures?
They contain all the information you need to create a perfect environment.View attachment 4001249 View attachment 4001250
Ah that could be it. I made the days a bit longer too, hoping that would speed up the grow as well.Far-red EOD accelerates ripening only if I remain strictly at 12/12. If I go to 13/11 or 14/10 there is no acceleration anymore.
Indeed. Plus I also see the 80 CRI harvesting slightly bigger yields especially when the grow is shortened on the 90 CRI side.Since I am strongly limited in height, I remain at ra80 and only ~ 2000-3000μMol DOD, to cause no additional stretching.
I also see the 80 CRI harvesting slightly bigger yields especially when the grow is shortened on the 90 CRI side.
Wow, 85? Really? My ladies seem to start curling starting at ~82Fyes because leds lack IR and leaf temp will be lower than you are used to
with that much light id say 80 degrees minimum air temp. 85 or more if running CO2
plant metabolism is highly related to temperature and if you look at the classic ppfd at different temps graph that goes around, all ppfds peak at about 30C (86F)
What about flower humidity?: I had thought early flower was around 50 to 53% and tapering down later in flower to 40 to 45%/Check your ppfd lower lumens per meter reduces production. Lower lights if not too hot
Huh?you can also shorten your day period down to 8 or even 6 hours
+1Ah that could be it. I made the days a bit longer too, hoping that would speed up the grow as well.
Indeed. Plus I also see the 80 CRI harvesting slightly bigger yields especially when the grow is shortened on the 90 CRI side.
I've been thinking a lot about this, and there hasn't been a lot of feedback on here about this. Since I first heard about (potential) earlier finishing times, I've been wondering how we could be getting something for nothing. It has always seemed to me that there would be a trade-off.. They finished earlier but most of the time with less final weight. Maybe if we increase the DLI to equalize this we would get the same yield.
What is your setup btw? What type of leds are you running?Yeah, has something like a hype..., Lol!
Just purchases a better fan controller to turn my exhaust fans lower... winter is coming and would like to be in the 78-83 range!yeah i like 80s, some people like 70s. 60s are bad news growth is slow and deficiencies seem to creep in from lack of transpiration/uptake
You're mistaken.I don't know what a COB array is or what Cree 3070 is but I can tell you that 3000-4500k is not the spectrum you should be in. Unless I'm mistaken, optimal kelvin ratings should be 5000-6500k for plant growth & 2700-3000 for flowering. Your working with a kelvin rating that will produce growth but that growth will be slow and not efficient. That said, I have found that with LED's it takes a couple extra weeks for maturation, which is why I was reading this post. Frankly I'm confused as to why nobody else picked up on the fact that you have the wrong lights.
Should we start with what a COB is or what a 3070 is?Could you please expand on that some?
k temps are just different gradients of white [full spectrum] light....some have a little more red, more blue, than others etc....all white light should work well...too much blue, too much red, can cause problems and cause smiles.....Could you please expand on that some?
Gotta say that this is pretty much what I thought when I read the first post. He went from flowering under approx 2000K hps to flowering under 3750-4000K. I would expect them to take longer to finish than what he was used to.I don't know what a COB array is or what Cree 3070 is but I can tell you that 3000-4500k is not the spectrum you should be in. Unless I'm mistaken, optimal kelvin ratings should be 5000-6500k for plant growth & 2700-3000 for flowering. Your working with a kelvin rating that will produce growth but that growth will be slow and not efficient. That said, I have found that with LED's it takes a couple extra weeks for maturation, which is why I was reading this post. Frankly I'm confused as to why nobody else picked up on the fact that you have the wrong lights.