Small Buds in week 6 (GDP)

KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
MtRainDog said:
I've seen a lot of GDP grows over the years on the forums. There's a lot of variety, and GDP isn't exactly a cover model compared to more contemporary hype strains. It is often kinda leafy, with a lot of variation in the yield department. I think yours looks in line with expectations.
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What would you say the top 5 "contemporary hype strains" would be?
 
weedstoner420

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
KAT-AL-LYST said:
I was under the impression that SCROGing was meant to improve yields, as it allows for even light capture. What is the idea behind smaller buds?
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I dunno if it's necessarily going to improve yield, but it does make for more uniformly-sized tops compared to not topping or training at all, or topping only once... Instead of one or a few very large tops and a bunch of smaller, less-developed "lowers," you get a whole bunch of smaller tops that are more uniform in size and development.
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
weedstoner420 said:
I dunno if it's necessarily going to improve yield, but it does make for more uniformly-sized tops compared to not topping or training at all, or topping only once... Instead of one or a few very large tops and a bunch of smaller, less-developed "lowers," you get a whole bunch of smaller tops that are more uniform in size and development.
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This makes sense. I chose the SCROG method to utilize my entire floorspace. next run I will be keeping my plants smaller.
 
V

VaSmile

Well-Known Member
KAT-AL-LYST said:
I was under the impression that SCROGing was meant to improve yields, as it allows for even light capture. What is the idea behind smaller buds?
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Everytime you top a branch 2 smaller ones grow back in its place. Both of the new branches will be noticably smaller then the original but combined will be more growth. More smaller, even buds=greater total yeild Your separating one bud into 2 providing more space for growth. You just are not gonna get the massive top colas after you supercrop but your total yeild should increase
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
Do any of you guys SCROG?
Also, what (if any) is your experience with C02 bags? with regards to yield. Was it much of a difference?
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
VaSmile said:
Everytime you top a branch 2 smaller ones grow back in its place. Both of the new branches will be noticably smaller then the original but combined will be more growth. More smaller, even buds=greater total yeild Your separating one bud into 2 providing more space for growth. You just are not gonna get the massive top colas after you supercrop but your total yeild should increase
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Thanks.
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
So, with regards to the current gro, I found a Nana today. Since it is around 2 weeks from harvest should I just push through??
As I went to get some pics, I found 5 more spread throughout.

I need to know why this has happened, so I don't keep making the mistake. This is the second time this has happened!
  • Could it be that I have 2x 315 CMH in a 4x4 tent? the lights are 600mm away from the canopy.
  • Is it because the girls are too tall (600mm)?
  • Or did I defoliate too heavily in week two of Flower?
Aformentioned, this is the second time this has happened, but on a different strain, so it is something I am doing..............:wall:
 

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weedstoner420

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
KAT-AL-LYST said:
So, with regards to the current gro, I found a Nana today. Since it is around 2 weeks from harvest should I just push through??
As I went to get some pics, I found 5 more spread throughout.

I need to know why this has happened, so I don't keep making the mistake. This is the second time this has happened!
  • Could it be that I have 2x 315 CMH in a 4x4 tent? the lights are 600mm away from the canopy.
  • Is it because the girls are too tall (600mm)?
  • Or did I defoliate too heavily in week two of Flower?
Aformentioned, this is the second time this has happened, but on a different strain, so it is something I am doing..............:wall:
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At this point I would keep going, pluck them off if you feel like it but it shouldn't be too big of a deal either way, however I feel like you are definitely more than 2 weeks away from harvesting.

Lots of strains are prone to throwing male flowers, and some require less stress than others to do so. Plus, guess where feminized seeds come from... Your plants look pretty healthy overall so I'd just chalk it up to genetics tbh.
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
weedstoner420 said:
At this point I would keep going, pluck them off if you feel like it but it shouldn't be too big of a deal either way, however I feel like you are definitely more than 2 weeks away from harvesting.

Lots of strains are prone to throwing male flowers, and some require less stress than others to do so. Plus, guess where feminized seeds come from... Your plants look pretty healthy overall so I'd just chalk it up to genetics tbh.
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Thanks for the input. What makes you say more than two weeks from harvest bro? Also, do you know how long the Nana takes to form?
 
weedstoner420

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
KAT-AL-LYST said:
Thanks for the input. What makes you say more than two weeks from harvest bro? Also, do you know how long the Nana takes to form?
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Still lots of white hairs, bracts not swollen, etc. Personally I don't know if I've ever seen a plant that was really ready to harvest at only 8 weeks, in person or on the internet. I think the idea of an 8-week flowering time comes from a combination of commercial growers who want to harvest their crop as early as the market will allow, and breeders trying to sell more seeds by claiming unrealistically short flower times. As a home grower, if you let them go an extra few weeks, you will not be disappointed.

How long it takes the nanners to form? No clue, maybe a couple days to a couple weeks? Seeds though, you'll notice the seeded bracts swell up faster and have a slightly different appearance than unseeded ones.
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
weedstoner420 said:
Still lots of white hairs, bracts not swollen, etc. Personally I don't know if I've ever seen a plant that was really ready to harvest at only 8 weeks, in person or on the internet. I think the idea of an 8-week flowering time comes from a combination of commercial growers who want to harvest their crop as early as the market will allow, and breeders trying to sell more seeds by claiming unrealistically short flower times. As a home grower, if you let them go an extra few weeks, you will not be disappointed.

How long it takes the nanners to form? No clue, maybe a couple days to a couple weeks? Seeds though, you'll notice the seeded bracts swell up faster and have a slightly different appearance than unseeded ones.
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Yeah, I can see how the 8 weeks could be hyped up by the commercial industry. I was just going off the ol "80% amber trichomes" guideline. However, I haven't noticed any part of the plant turning a shade of purple yet. By my read, that normally indicates two weeks to harvest. By Bracts, are you referring to the Ovuial?
 
weedstoner420

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
KAT-AL-LYST said:
Yeah, I can see how the 8 weeks could be hyped up by the commercial industry. I was just going off the ol "80% amber trichomes" guideline. However, I haven't noticed any part of the plant turning a shade of purple yet. By my read, that normally indicates two weeks to harvest. By Bracts, are you referring to the Ovuial?
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Yes, the things the seeds would grow inside of. Bracts/ovules/calyxes/not sure what the proper scientific term is...

80% amber trichomes would be quite ripe indeed, unless you mean 80% amber pistils which is probably not quite there yet. For a modern hybrid like that, I would wait for 100% of the original flush or two of pistils to turn brown, and the bracts to swell. It may still keep throwing fresh white pistils here and there, but you want the primary group of them to be fully brown and died off.
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
weedstoner420 said:
Yes, the things the seeds would grow inside of. Bracts/ovules/calyxes/not sure what the proper scientific term is...

80% amber trichomes would be quite ripe indeed, unless you mean 80% amber pistils which is probably not quite there yet. For a modern hybrid like that, I would wait for 100% of the original flush or two of pistils to turn brown, and the bracts to swell. It may still keep throwing fresh white pistils here and there, but you want the primary group of them to be fully brown and died off.
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Ovules are below the Pstles, Pstles are the mechanism that contains the Pollin tube. The pollen tube carries the pollen down (takes roughly 12 hours to travel 1 mm) The Caylex is the part of the flower below the petals, this houses the petals when the flower is closed, it is the green spindly part on a tomato between the tomato and the vine, (looks like a spider). So in order Pstles>Ovule>Caylex.
 
KAT-AL-LYST

KAT-AL-LYST

Member
weedstoner420 said:
Yes, the things the seeds would grow inside of. Bracts/ovules/calyxes/not sure what the proper scientific term is...

80% amber trichomes would be quite ripe indeed, unless you mean 80% amber pistils which is probably not quite there yet. For a modern hybrid like that, I would wait for 100% of the original flush or two of pistils to turn brown, and the bracts to swell. It may still keep throwing fresh white pistils here and there, but you want the primary group of them to be fully brown and died off.
Click to expand...
Also, what do you mean by "100% of the original flush"
 
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