SOG growers wanted !!!

livesoul

Well-Known Member
For anyone whose already set up there grow ala Al B Fuct. How long did it take you to grow out your mothers where you were able to get 50+ clones every two weeks. Thanks.

I pull that much every two weeks using between 4-5 mothers. Depends how big they are, not really how old.
 

2stoge

Active Member
I pull that much every two weeks using between 4-5 mothers. Depends how big they are, not really how old.
Thanks livesoul.
What I meant was how long did it take from seed to grow out the plants big enough to get all those clones.
Just ask because my room is set up, and just popped 6 AK47 to get going. I figure 3 will be female but was just wondering what time frame am I looking at til its running full steam.
 

2stoge

Active Member
I anticipated it taking a month and a half to get the mothers to the size I want them but its been 3 weeks since I germed the seeds and they are only two inches. So it looks to me I am way behind schedule.
 

greenearth5

Well-Known Member
Check your ph and moisture level. When i done my first dirt grow my plant grew no more then 2 inches in 2 months because i had an uncontrobable ph and moisture level.

I anticipated it taking a month and a half to get the mothers to the size I want them but its been 3 weeks since I germed the seeds and they are only two inches. So it looks to me I am way behind schedule.
 

brucetree

Active Member
Also, all my lights are air cooled. I have a can fan on the two 1k's and an intake and an exhaust, AND the air conditioner has its own exhaust and intake. Temp in my area outside is like 85-90 at most.
im having the same problems around my area. i have a can filter 66 with a 6 inch can fan HO, and a 8 inch vortex with a big active air filter both pulling, air cooled 2 1k lights and the veg 600. temps outside last night were 80+ room got to 87. not much room for air conditioning, i told myself i wouldnt bother during these months but here i am.
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
a quote from Al...

Originally Posted by Al B. Fuct





no wuckin' furries. :smile:

If I had to offer general suggestions to a noob, these would be the most significant:

* Build your room so it presents consistently correct conditions; 24-26C @ 30-50%RH with frequent ventilation.

* All locations for grow rooms are different but proper ventilation and thus keeping temps down is the hardest thing to accomplish in the spaces folx usually have available to use as grow ops. Cooltubes are an amazing helpmeet toward that end. There's some light intensity loss through the tube glass but you lose more yield through overtemp than through the 3-5% reduction in light intensity through the Pyrex. Also, when the vast majority of heat from lights is removed by the constant operation of cooltube fans during lights-on, you can significantly derate how much fan power you need for the room's main exhaust blower. Before I used cooltubes, my ~500cu ft flowering room struggled to stay under 26-27C (in summer in particular) even with a monster 250mm, 200W 650CFM exhaust blower assisted by 2x 150mm intake blowers. Could probably get by these days with a single 150mm or 200mm on exhaust and a 150mm on the intake.

* Shoot nutrient strength low rather than high. You will probably find that you get by just fine on half or less of the mfr's recommendations. You lose less yield from slight underfert than you do from nute burning.

* More is not always (in fact, usually not) better with growing plants. There's a bell curve to this- there's 'not enough,' 'just right' and 'dead.' The only exception is lighting, where there's no such thing as too much light, as long as you can maintain room air temps in the 24-26C range.

* Avoid magic sauces. They're mostly water and rarely justify their cost. If there's no solid botanical evidence supporting the use of an additive, skip it. If the mfr doesn't tell you what's in a magic sauce (which is common), you can't establish the scientific evidence necessary to justify the use of any given magic sauce. If you do want to mess with these things, the only way to establish efficacy is to run comparison grows; that means (at least) two crops side by side under the same lighting in the same room. Most grow rooms' conditions are not totally and perfectly climate controlled year-round. They usually vary significantly from crop to crop. Comparisons based on serial crops can be coloured by variations in room conditions. Only side-by-side comparisons eliminate the variations in conditions and give you a clear indication of the merit of any additive. As a rule, find out what works for you and keep doing it the same way. Don't change anything without being strongly convinced that the change is helpful.

* 'Organic' doesn't mean 'good' or even 'better.' In the case of reliable, repeatable, constant rotating harvest ops, inorganic nutes are superior as you can use H2O2 with them. Can't count the number of new growers who get sucked into organics and then have root rot problems they can't solve with 'organic' enzyme-based pathogen controls. Organic nutrients are composed of complex biomatters (e.g. bat guano, worm castings, etc) which the plants can't assimilate directly. You depend upon organic nutrients to break down into N, P & K in the rootzone (at not always well-known rates) before the plants can eat them. May as well use inorganic nutes which are already in that state and also have a solid idea of nutrient strength and bioavailability, as well as have the ability to use (regularly applied) H2O2, which is a sure-fire, every single time solution to root probs.

rotsaruck. :smile:
 

trouble9039

Well-Known Member
How's everyone doing around here? Went to the flowering room to see how it was going and my A/C ran out of freon. It was 96f up there with the hood's being vented! So now I am trying to hold out until my buddy can recharge it for me! But here Are A few bud pic's taken at night!
 

Return of the Spork

Well-Known Member
I found it kind of funny how certain types of grow methods gain and lose popularity as time goes on.

I personally changed to once every month harvest, cycling the two cabs. Been having some mite issues but that should be done with here soon.

I guess I kinda feel like I learned everything I could from here and barely check these days. That seem to be the case with the rest of you?
 

dirtysteve

Well-Known Member
Yeah, a little TOO quiet. LOL. I just tossed some clones into the flower room to sex my plants. Keeping fingers crossed for at least 1 female out of 10. Been a week and still no sign.
They really looked bad when I put them in the hydro side. I have my mothers in soil for now. Don't know if that might make any difference. Probably not. I cloned 16 total. Had 100% success on cloning my first try at rockwool cloning. Just followed Al exactly and viola!!! I had 6 I suspected were female so I doubled up those and took just one of the 4 I thought might be males. Lost 2 on the transfer from the clone box to flower but they were the suspected females so no worries as I had 2 of each of those. Just going to be a sexing batch then I will take a full set of clones from the known females and fill the tray up with 23 babies. They are just some bag seed I was practicing on. Using GH Flora series nutes. pH at 5.6-6.2. At 6.2 I add back some water and adjust pH back down to 5.6. My tap water is a steady 400-500 so I am seriously considering an RO system. But my ppms are running 1400 total to start these clones on. So that would be about 950 on the nutes. Flooding 4 times a day. Once at lights on then every 4 hours and the last 30 minutes before lights out.
In the mean time I germed 4 White Widow seeds and they are looking pretty good so far. Need to get something out of this before I put too much more money into it.
Trouble I like your avatar. Looks like one of the robots from Mystery Science Theater 3000.
 

brucetree

Active Member
a little late this season but was wondering if any of you knew about strains that can deal with indoor temps of 83-88 degrees better than a regular strain. side note, what strains is everybody growing anyways. ive got the hog and heavy duty fruity.
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
imho, acclimation is the key.


i've had all different kinda strains (although more sativa) growing anywhere from 77-96F without problems, i just keep air moving and make sure its constant (or would that be consistent?). people claim 'optimal' temps but long as you have air moving and the bulb isnt burning anything... you should be fine with any strain 83-88.

i sometimes prefer a tad bit higher than the said 'optimal' 77-79 or whatever the people be saying around here. I see more water uptake

alpha diesel, white russian, super skunk, power plant
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
Hmmmm. Upon reading my post...it seems to imply that i encourage 96F or even 90F.... let me be clear before i get jumped on...the lower the better. Sometimes ya just have strikes in temp difference

(that 90 plus temps was when i was still dealing with superior heat outside with an inferior a/c unit)
 
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