Soil Help

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between this 2 soils and what one would you go with? http://www.humboldtnutrients.com/blog/category/all-products/soil/ or any other organic soil? and how do you guys usually set it up trying to get this do this right way

soiless

This high-porosity mix is ideal for any pot-bedding-vegetable crops, nursery stock, propagation and various other applications. The Humboldt Mix is recommended for gardeners who like to keep their roots in a higher air capacity and faster drainage of water and nutrients. Begin your fertilizer program one week after planting. During the vegetative stage apply fertilizer then water, fertilizer then water, etc. During the blooming stage apply fertilizer more frequently.

Earth

Humboldt Earth is a ready to use soil created for fast growing, moderate to heavy feeding plants. Some plants may benefit from additional fertilizing. For exceptional results, feed with high quality nutrients such as the Humboldt Nutrients line of products. This natural & organically amended mix is ideal for any Pot-Bedding- Vegetable crops, Nursery Stock, propagation, and various other applications. The Humboldt Earth is ideal for indoor/outdoor potted plants, and can also be used as an amendment to existing beds or ground planted shrubs, trees, fruits, and vegetables

^^^^^ it's right there in your own link ???

Not sure what else you needed ??

just checking if one made a difference in growing organic or what other type of soil anyone can give me info on for organic grow lol just trying to get some tips in soil thats all i wanna get the seeds going and not worry about soil problems and just add the organic nutes with out worry about buying some shity soil and have to replant them in another pot

Use the soiless, that would be my choice for seedlings,
Note , there is enough nutes in that soil to last seedlings 4 weeks,
ignore that at your peril.

How about 1/3 Sphagnum, 1/3 pumice and 1/3 EWC? Makes a great starting point. Why buy bagged? Why use "soil" if you don't use trillions of microbes as labor?

lol thats why im asking for some advice on some soil i got some nice NL seeds that im waiting to plant and the vitamins im using is the basic organic line from Humboldt

Well, I'm more of a purist, and I've had inconsistency with bagged soil (Roots Organic). I would only recommend building your own. You know what you're getting and saving the cost.

I will say that going this route may require you to buy starting amendments in bulk. Like a 5 pound bag of crab shell meal, when your first soil mix might only require a cup.

I like NL#5 a lot

this my first grow i got a few delicious northern light blue and dont wanna mess it up since waiting for the seeds took awhile any advice if i need any lighting cause i plan in planting them straight out the package also when you make your own soil do you have to worry about bugs and stuff like that or is that with any soil

just get a good branded soil from a hydro store, try to get a light mix , nothing to heavy and something with perlite added is preferable,
first time why complicate , i agree, it's daunting enough and mixing worm shit is not for everyone including me.

Well, if you can't mix in worm castings...

Some people cook from scratch, and other people buy frozen dinners. You get a meal either way.

Rrog said:

Well, if you can't mix in worm castings...

Some people cook from scratch, and other people buy frozen dinners. You get a meal either way.

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Hardly the same thing , ppl growing indoors don't wanna mix , pre-mix is a better option , like me ,
And yet my Spag Boll and Strogonoff is legendary!!

Northwest, I would suggest that any soil route you take you amend the soil with the following to avoid most issues:

Crab Shell Meal
Neem Meal
Mosquito Dunks
Predatory Nematodes

Each of those does a different thing, but they all work to consume / starve / kill larvae. Sometimes bagged soils harbor eggs, but again, I'd do this even if you built soil from scratch.

The more I think about it, I'd agree with Clonex and try a bagged soil for your first run. Stick to amending the bag with the above. You'll have all you can do to focus on what's happening above the soil line.

However I would absolutely encourage you to get a bag of EWC... It's the heart of the soil, and will likely already have a starting supply in the bagged soil.

Rrog said:

Northwest, I would suggest that any soil route you take you amend the soil with the following to avoid most issues:

Crab Shell Meal
Neem Meal
Mosquito Dunks
Predatory Nematodes

Each of those does a different thing, but they all work to consume / starve / kill larvae. Sometimes bagged soils harbor eggs, but again, I'd do this even if you built soil from scratch.

The more I think about it, I'd agree with Clonex and try a bagged soil for your first run. Stick to amending the bag with the above. You'll have all you can do to focus on what's happening above the soil line.

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Yup agreed , i add guano and bio plus , kinda the same thing.....

That is totally groovy. Totally. I'm just more of a granola guy is all.

Personally, I try and use local fertilizers. I collect my own microbes (BIMs - Beneficial Indigenous Microbes) to get a soil started. I make Bokashi and feed it to my worms, which make me clean, fresh castings. It's what was meant to go in the soil. I also amend the worm bin with rock powders, silica, kelp, etc. They worms lock up the nutrients best and fastest.

I like coconut water, barley sprout tea, and aloe. Why? Because unlike any of the products that can be bought in a bottle or can, these simple, almost free items contain enormous quantities of plant hormones, secondary metabolites and plant enzymes. Most of these molecules degrade quickly, so they have to be made in the field and used soon. Great for foliar and soil drench. These molecules also trigger immune responses in the plant, keeping it switched on alert, so pathogens will not only be met with a fierce microbial response, but also countered by the plants own immune response.

To me these are the subtleties that you just can't buy. I like knowing I can produce something much better than can be bought. Maybe it's an obsession

cool that clears up some things cause im a smoker not quite the dr.green thumb as you guys can tell

If you have a good soil, you can maintain a good microbial herd. They'll feed and defend the plant.

Worm castings specifically has long ago been shown in labs to significantly reduce the incidence of soil borne pathogens of all types. Recently it's also been demonstrated that having good EWC (VermiCompost) in your soil will also significantly reduce the incidence of pathogens in the leaves and stems (Phyllosphere). And worms eat my garbage and they don't smell even a little.

Something terribly alluring about all of this.

""Worms Micheal ??!!"" "There Noodles"


Sorry loved that film as a kid ,
Well i never grew up but you know what i mean ....

lol lost boys so you saying mix a lil worm casting in with the soil also do water bottles or gallons have non-chlorinated water or is it true if you leave water for 24hrs that it makes the chloride or chlorine evaporate

You likely have Chloramine, which doesn't air out like Chlorine. You can add a Tablespoon of compost and / or molasses to a gallon of water to neutralize Chloramine

Rrog said:

You likely have Chloramine, which doesn't air out like Chlorine. You can add a Tablespoon of compost and / or molasses to a gallon of water to neutralize Chloramine

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I didn't know Molasses had that effect , thanks for that , i am already doing it unawares with Mollasses.