Soil Receipt Advice?!

cannakis

cannakis

Well-Known Member
I Am using Pro-Mix HP Mycorrhizae which has been used for years now--very depleted--but used Blue Mountain Organics line which is very good by the way, especially their Super Plant Tonic.

Adding per Cubic Foot of Pro-Mix:
1 Gallon Alfalfa Cubes,
3/4 cup Humic Acid,
1/4 cup Fulvic Acid,
1 Cup Bone Meal,
1 Cup Kelp Meal,
.5 Gallon Charcoal Ash,
1 cup Lime,
1 cup Gypsum,
1 Gallon Earthworm Castings,
2.5 (or 1?) Gallons Blue Granite (73% Silica),
1 Gallon Horse Manure,
.5 Gallon Crushed Oyster Shell,
2.5 (or 1?) Gallons of Rye Straw, Seed, and Hull,
1 Cup (or 3?) of Vermiculite,
Maybe add 1 Cup of Blood Meal?
And maybe 1 Gallon of Fresh Grass?

This will be For Mature Plants; seedlings and cuttings will be placed in Just Pro-Mix, and fed Kelp, Alfalfa, Willow Tea. Oh and I Am doing this tomorrow... Well i guess it is Today. But very soon, in the next twelve plus hours i will be making this mix so i can have it in 30 days or so, after turning it every other day.

i Want The Best of The Best Soil, so i can Have The Best of The Best Bud.!. Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated, and the Question Marks indicate such. Thanks again for everything all of your have done, and do.! Let's keep spreading The Truth and being Good Stewards of the Great Green Earth which THE LORD has given us.!
 
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SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
I got as far as the first ingredient and had to post a reply...

You want more like a cup of alfalfa per cubic foot, not a gallon (this is about 16 times too much alfalfa!!!).

Here's one of my old recipes. Shoot for similar proportions and you'll do well.

Base Mix:
- Equal parts Alaska Peat, Perlite (wide range of particle sizes), and worm castings (home made supplemented with some from a local worm farm). I also added some Alaskan Humus at about 5% or so for a little extra diversity.

Nitrogen Sources:
- Crab Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal
- Alfalfa Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal
- Neem Seed Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal

Phosphorus Source:
- Fish Bone Meal --2 TBSP/gal

Potassium, micronutrients, etc:
- Kelp Meal -- 1.5 TBSP/gal

Rock Dusts, Minerals, etc:
- Powdered Dolomite Lime -- 2 TBSP/gal
- Azomite -- 2 TBSP/gal
- Soft Rock Phosphate -- 1 TBSP/gal

This mix was created to be recycled and reused repeatedly. In fact I'm still working with that same soil over a year later...
 
cannakis

cannakis

Well-Known Member
SpicySativa said:
I got as far as the first ingredient and had to post a reply...

You want more like a cup of alfalfa per cubic foot, not a gallon (this is about 16 times too much alfalfa!!!).

Here's one of my old recipes. Shoot for similar proportions and you'll do well.

Base Mix:
- Equal parts Alaska Peat, Perlite (wide range of particle sizes), and worm castings (home made supplemented with some from a local worm farm). I also added some Alaskan Humus at about 5% or so for a little extra diversity.

Nitrogen Sources:
- Crab Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal
- Alfalfa Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal
- Neem Seed Meal -- 0.5 TBSP/gal

Phosphorus Source:
- Fish Bone Meal --2 TBSP/gal

Potassium, micronutrients, etc:
- Kelp Meal -- 1.5 TBSP/gal

Rock Dusts, Minerals, etc:
- Powdered Dolomite Lime -- 2 TBSP/gal
- Azomite -- 2 TBSP/gal
- Soft Rock Phosphate -- 1 TBSP/gal

This mix was created to be recycled and reused repeatedly. In fact I'm still working with that same soil over a year later...
Click to expand...
hahaha thanks so much for your help! Haha! Man are you Sure I shouldn't add More nutrients?! I want it to be optimal!
 
SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
Less is more with organics.

Also, be careful with those alfalfa cubes. Did you get them from a feed store? If so, they *may* have salt added to them. Animals (rabbits, etc) need a little salt in their diets, so it sometimes gets added to their alfalfa feed.

And.. The fact that it's alfalfa cubes not alfalfa meal may be an issue. Each of those cubes in the soil can form a "hot spot" that the roots won't be that happy to encounter (both in terms of temperature AND nutrient content). I have not experienced this first hand (I use alfalfa meal sold for gardening), but I do know that alfalfa is some seriously potent stuff. It'll get a compost pile steaming hot in no time.
 
cannakis

cannakis

Well-Known Member
hahaha thats how it used to be called. cooking receipts/recipes. like hundreds of years ago.

but i also want to note i am adding a Cup or Two of Dry amollases.
 
SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
I would avoid adding the dry molasses to your soil mix. There's plenty of healthy food in there for the microbiology; you want them to focus on breaking it down.

An analogy... Adding molasses to your soil mix is kindof like putting a candy bar and an apple in front of a kid... The kid will eat the candy bar and leave the apple alone. The soil microbes will exhaust their easy/favorite junk food (molasses) before moving on to the "healthy" foods that you REALLY want them to eat (alfalfa, kelp, etc).

It might not cause any problems at all; this is just what went through my head when I read that...
 
cannakis

cannakis

Well-Known Member
SpicySativa said:
I would avoid adding the dry molasses to your soil mix. There's plenty of healthy food in there for the microbiology; you want them to focus on breaking it down.

An analogy... Adding molasses to your soil mix is kindof like putting a candy bar and an apple in front of a kid... The kid will eat the candy bar and leave the apple alone. The soil microbes will exhaust their easy/favorite junk food (molasses) before moving on to the "healthy" foods that you REALLY want them to eat (alfalfa, kelp, etc).

It might not cause any problems at all; this is just what went through my head when I read that...
Click to expand...
haha yes i see what you are saying, but dont plants have different digestive systems and require different nutrients than human beings?
 
SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
It's an analogy; don't take it literally. The analogy is between soil microbes and humans, not plants and humans.

It's important to remember that we are not feeding plants, we are feeding soil microbes. The nitrogen in that alfalfa, for example, will first be taken in by bacteria, which will then be eaten by Protozoa, which will then crap them out as plant-available ("ionized") nutrients.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
cannakis said:
I Am using Pro-Mix HP Mycorrhizae which has been used for years now--very depleted--but used Blue Mountain Organics line which is very good by the way, especially their Super Plant Tonic.

Adding per Cubic Foot of Pro-Mix:
1 Gallon Alfalfa Cubes,
3/4 cup Humic Acid,
1/4 cup Fulvic Acid,
1 Cup Bone Meal,
1 Cup Kelp Meal,
.5 Gallon Charcoal Ash,
1 cup Lime,
1 cup Gypsum,
1 Gallon Earthworm Castings,
2.5 (or 1?) Gallons Blue Granite (73% Silica),
1 Gallon Horse Manure,
.5 Gallon Crushed Oyster Shell,
2.5 (or 1?) Gallons of Rye Straw, Seed, and Hull,
1 Cup (or 3?) of Vermiculite,
Maybe add 1 Cup of Blood Meal?
And maybe 1 Gallon of Fresh Grass?

This will be For Mature Plants; seedlings and cuttings will be placed in Just Pro-Mix, and fed Kelp, Alfalfa, Willow Tea. Oh and I Am doing this tomorrow... Well i guess it is Today. But very soon, in the next twelve plus hours i will be making this mix so i can have it in 30 days or so, after turning it every other day.

i Want The Best of The Best Soil, so i can Have The Best of The Best Bud.!. Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated, and the Question Marks indicate such. Thanks again for everything all of your have done, and do.! Let's keep spreading The Truth and being Good Stewards of the Great Green Earth which THE LORD has given us.!
Click to expand...
I just stumbled on this accidentally, is this the soil recipe that you are having problems with? Cuz that would explain a whole lot!
 
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