canadiankushman
Well-Known Member
If you are using tap water, is it city water?
Do you have an analysis of what is all in that water?
Do you have an analysis of what is all in that water?
Soiless medium considered hydro or soil?
- Thread starter selfmedicator462
- Start date
aunaturale208
New Member
Hydro is still relevant for substrates such as pittmoss (an alternative to peat moss), perilite, hydroton, coco coir, even glass as long as water is the main medium with which to provide nutrients and minerals.
I'm in pro mix bx..I don't ph at all....some stains can handle it,,,some not...I still get killer yields,bud.....jus sayin
selfmedicator462
Well-Known Member
selfmedicator462
Well-Known Member
Yeah it's city water I have an RO system on. Highly doubt my town even knows what's in it lol. Standard hard water
papa canna
Well-Known Member
I also grow in peat moss. Sunshine advanced #4. I feed every watering and ph to 6.4. Can anyone tell me how to ph test my medium? Or should I just be testing my runoff?
RM3
Well-Known Member
Been growin in Peat for many years and have NEVER done either
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
When I started into hydro there was no one there to explain any thing so I went with 6ph. Then one day out of no where someone said, "5.8 is the correct ph for hydro." 
bravedave
Well-Known Member
Promix HP for me also. After actually conversing with the guy who wrote the "Teaming with Microbes" book, Lowenfel, he suggested that anything over 80 (yes just 80) ppms of P inhibits beneficial fungus production and thus defeats the added myco in HP(I also add Xtreme mykos when transplanting) So I switched from a 20/20/20 to a 20/10/20 (Jack's citrus) and I go 1/2 tsp per gallon and feed every water. Having nice results. While I have other things at the ready...epson salt is the only other chem I add habitually during flower (and just before) at a 1/8 tsp. per gallon. Water to runoff and pouring off runoff has prevented salt build up for me. But yeah, go small.
Alienwidow
Well-Known Member
hearing about the feeding schedule youve been running i believe i may have your answer. I also used to see yellowing in bloom frequently. So i started experimenting with when i would swich from veg food to bloom food. I would always seem to see the yellowing start a couple weeks after the swich and id swich food at the lighting swich to 12/12. Well i ran veg food right until the end and they stayed green the whole damn time. Unfortunately the plants didn't finish right. They lacked smell and tricomb prodution, and the flavor just wasnt right either. Anyway, i kept on varying when i would change the feed and the best time ive found to do it is at week 3.5. The stretch is done and now ripening is starting so you dont need as much nitrogen. I slowly transition the food over a week to straight bloom. So were at week 4.5 now. Then at week 5.5 i run the pk boost for one week only. (Have a look at cannas feed chart as to when to run pk boost) So now were at week 6.5 and i just run bloom and im running like the max ill run. This is the point in the grow that shes starting to really bulk up. At week 7.5 feeding should be tapering right off to almost nothing by week 8.5 when ya chop. Try this. It works great for me. Green plants right till harvest. I mean youll have a little seasonal leaf drop, and theres some strains that will yellow slightly more than others, but theyll be green.
In conclusion, i think the yellowing is probably from switching to higher p and k foods right at flip while the plant is still using lots of nitrogen. And running too pk boost for too long in flower. One week only. Lots of old school growers will tell ya to run a "balanced" line. Like a 3-3-3. They say that the plant will take up what it wants too. Meh, theyre close to being right imo. Lots of those same growers also claim to be smarter than the reaserch scientists that work at canna labs, and i doubt they are. Straight balanced feed is how they used to grow in the 70s and 80s. Cannabis feeding research has come a long way since then. P and K impo are very important tools for budding plants to ripen and also the most overused by new growers
i hope the next round stays more green for ya.
In conclusion, i think the yellowing is probably from switching to higher p and k foods right at flip while the plant is still using lots of nitrogen. And running too pk boost for too long in flower. One week only. Lots of old school growers will tell ya to run a "balanced" line. Like a 3-3-3. They say that the plant will take up what it wants too. Meh, theyre close to being right imo. Lots of those same growers also claim to be smarter than the reaserch scientists that work at canna labs, and i doubt they are. Straight balanced feed is how they used to grow in the 70s and 80s. Cannabis feeding research has come a long way since then. P and K impo are very important tools for budding plants to ripen and also the most overused by new growers
i hope the next round stays more green for ya.
selfmedicator462
Well-Known Member
I use hydroponic research veg & bloom dry nutes. Also use their pk booster and a product called Life which is supposed to put beneficial bacteria/microbes into the soil. I also add calmag.
papa canna
Well-Known Member
canadiankushman
Well-Known Member
Distilled water+cup+sample
Let it sit for a bit then check ph of muddy water
papa canna
Well-Known Member
can I ask why distilled? Wouldn't RO be better? Also, wouldn't the ph of any water affect the ph of the medium?
GrowUrOwnDank
Well-Known Member
man that's pretty deep stuff bro. Kudos for taking the time to know all that.hearing about the feeding schedule youve been running i believe i may have your answer. I also used to see yellowing in bloom frequently. So i started experimenting with when i would swich from veg food to bloom food. I would always seem to see the yellowing start a couple weeks after the swich and id swich food at the lighting swich to 12/12. Well i ran veg food right until the end and they stayed green the whole damn time. Unfortunately the plants didn't finish right. They lacked smell and tricomb prodution, and the flavor just wasnt right either. Anyway, i kept on varying when i would change the feed and the best time ive found to do it is at week 3.5. The stretch is done and now ripening is starting so you dont need as much nitrogen. I slowly transition the food over a week to straight bloom. So were at week 4.5 now. Then at week 5.5 i run the pk boost for one week only. (Have a look at cannas feed chart as to when to run pk boost) So now were at week 6.5 and i just run bloom and im running like the max ill run. This is the point in the grow that shes starting to really bulk up. At week 7.5 feeding should be tapering right off to almost nothing by week 8.5 when ya chop. Try this. It works great for me. Green plants right till harvest. I mean youll have a little seasonal leaf drop, and theres some strains that will yellow slightly more than others, but theyll be green.
In conclusion, i think the yellowing is probably from switching to higher p and k foods right at flip while the plant is still using lots of nitrogen. And running too pk boost for too long in flower. One week only. Lots of old school growers will tell ya to run a "balanced" line. Like a 3-3-3. They say that the plant will take up what it wants too. Meh, theyre close to being right imo. Lots of those same growers also claim to be smarter than the reaserch scientists that work at canna labs, and i doubt they are. Straight balanced feed is how they used to grow in the 70s and 80s. Cannabis feeding research has come a long way since then. P and K impo are very important tools for budding plants to ripen and also the most overused by new growers
I have to be honest tho. Well. That was pretty good.
bravedave
Well-Known Member
I stay green. You don't like balanced. What are the ratios you are talking then ?hearing about the feeding schedule youve been running i believe i may have your answer. I also used to see yellowing in bloom frequently. So i started experimenting with when i would swich from veg food to bloom food. I would always seem to see the yellowing start a couple weeks after the swich and id swich food at the lighting swich to 12/12. Well i ran veg food right until the end and they stayed green the whole damn time. Unfortunately the plants didn't finish right. They lacked smell and tricomb prodution, and the flavor just wasnt right either. Anyway, i kept on varying when i would change the feed and the best time ive found to do it is at week 3.5. The stretch is done and now ripening is starting so you dont need as much nitrogen. I slowly transition the food over a week to straight bloom. So were at week 4.5 now. Then at week 5.5 i run the pk boost for one week only. (Have a look at cannas feed chart as to when to run pk boost) So now were at week 6.5 and i just run bloom and im running like the max ill run. This is the point in the grow that shes starting to really bulk up. At week 7.5 feeding should be tapering right off to almost nothing by week 8.5 when ya chop. Try this. It works great for me. Green plants right till harvest. I mean youll have a little seasonal leaf drop, and theres some strains that will yellow slightly more than others, but theyll be green.
In conclusion, i think the yellowing is probably from switching to higher p and k foods right at flip while the plant is still using lots of nitrogen. And running too pk boost for too long in flower. One week only. Lots of old school growers will tell ya to run a "balanced" line. Like a 3-3-3. They say that the plant will take up what it wants too. Meh, theyre close to being right imo. Lots of those same growers also claim to be smarter than the reaserch scientists that work at canna labs, and i doubt they are. Straight balanced feed is how they used to grow in the 70s and 80s. Cannabis feeding research has come a long way since then. P and K impo are very important tools for budding plants to ripen and also the most overused by new growers
canadiankushman
Well-Known Member
Figgy
Well-Known Member
Amend the mix with dolomite lime. It prevents ph swings.