Soilless PH 5.8 or 6.5

keysareme

Well-Known Member
Only problem is the cuttings i took are in 100% peat. Water PH is 5.8. Every one of them rooted then i put into fresh peat/perlite and fed a low nute feed ph'd to 6 and they are stunted with the tops showing some mossiac pattern on them. WTF!! This is driving me nuts
Possibly fed nutrients too soon after rooting/transplant.
 

wes2wright

Member
50% peat 30% perlite and 20% vermiculite. The peat says its PH'd to 5.5 to 6.5 so i did a slurry test and it is 6.3. The first plants i added dolomite which made my ph stick at 7 the clones have no added dolomite and have watered with a ph of 6 and now same problems are showing which leads me to believe it might be this TMV i read about last night. The leaves are twisted, stunted growth and then a mossiac pattern appears on leaves. They just sit like this. not growing but not dying. Really weird. I do use ciggarettes in my joints so maybe i could of transfered it. I never heard of this TMV and thought it was all BS
 

Torch1

Well-Known Member
Clones r fukt cause you cloned fukt plants... not your first time? Then u should know to clone only healthy plants... check your nutes for precipitation-- maybe you aren't feeding what you think you're feeding...
TMV?!? Just, no...no & not!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Rollitup mobile app
 

wes2wright

Member
When i took the clones at week 3 the mothers were healthy and showed no signs of anything. They didnt start to getting "fukt" until week 5. I think even a non grower could figure out taking clones from an unhealthy plant would lead to unhealthy clones. As for the nutes im using scotts and always have for about the last few years. All of my growing are the conditions are the same except the fact i left out the "soil" in my medium. If it was such an obvious thing as that i wouldnt be on here
 
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keysareme

Well-Known Member
The moss is pH'd 5.5-6.5, your slurry test resulted with 6.3, and your watering in at 6. Your target pH is 5.8? Have you checked any of the runoff, it will give you some insight to what the moss is doing to the pH 6 water. Possibly you need to water in at an even lower pH?
 

wes2wright

Member
sorry i meant the peat says on the packet its ph'd between 5.5-6.5 so i did a slurry test fresh from bag and it was 6.3.

The first plants i had added lime and treated them like "soil" and watered with 6.5 runoff was 6.9

The clones i took i had added more perllite and no dolomite and have been treating them like "soilless" watered with PH 6 runoff is 6.1 (but with added 40% perlite runs through quick)

The clones have only been fed once with 1/3 nutes 30-10-10 and are showing problems. I had just finished a previous grow with no problems with pretty much the same conditions which is why this is doing my head in. Leading me to believe there is something more nefarious going on.

I guess the first question has been answered now and keeping peat around 6 seems to be the way. I will post some pics later if anyone has any ideas as to why this could be.
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
Mj needs good drainage and airation in the root zone. Peat moss in itself doesn't offer this. Peat moss is an organic inert dried out moss that acts like a sponge.
I at one time operated a peatmoss picker. The peat fields are like driving over a giant sponge:)
The peat you purchase in a bail is already pre-ph'ed at the peat moss plant. Peat is often used to beef up soils that cannot hold moisture for extended periods of time where irrigation is limited..
The only thing that grows in natural peat is more peat, cranberries, etc, but only peat in the middle of the bog.
Adding dolomite lime to peat moss would take a while to react with the peat. When using purchased soils or spagnum it is already amended so whatever is done to further ammend the ph without counter balance would only put the medium out of balance.
Peat moss by itself, even properly ammended lacks the nessesary drainage to support healthy mj plants.
If I had to grow in moss I'd make/purchase the plantpots no more than 6" deep and expand the root zone area of the plant pot horizontally. By not having the plantpot(s) deeper would allow better airation for the rootzone. I would add a layer of gravel in the bottom of the plantpot before adding the peat for added drainage/airation of the root zone.
 
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wes2wright

Member
I am living in Asia so difficult to find decent products to work with (Due to language barrier etc). I bought a bale of Klassman peat and mixed it with 30% perlite and 20% vermiculite. The latest batch i put even more coarse perlite in for drainage. I guess in straight peat would be watering once a year and guaranteed root rot on the cards
 

hogbud

Well-Known Member
Been growing in peat for years and even reuse it, been on the same bale for 30 grows LOL I add dolomite every time and have never had a problem. Is so funny to read that peat is not a good medium. IMO you have something else going on
 

wes2wright

Member
What is confusing is i had 1 experiment plant that is in organic soil and has only been fed EWC tea and it is grower much better than others but is still showing the same signs but to much less of a degree
 
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