Some questions about DWC + orange/brown spot on old leaves

Valirev

Member
If you ask me, it doesn't look like cal mag deficiency anyway. I figured somebody else would have said that by now. I think it looks like a K deficiency. I'm not familiar with your nutes and I didn't see your EC but they may need a little more.
My tap water is 0.4 EC, I used to go to around 1.0-1.1 once nuts mixed, I pushed it to 1.4 in last mix
My first idea was that it wasn't calcium deficiency but excess cause according to Metrop, I add mixed too much calgreen (which has calcium in it) in my nutrient solution, the dosage ain't the same in soil and dwc (3 times less in dwc) and I wasn't aware of it.
I fixed it like a week ago or more, still newer growth are getting the same spots.
Calcium excess can lockout other nutrients like K.
I guess I'm probably just going to try things and see what happen lol.
Still thank you for your answer, any point of view is interesting =)
 

Valirev

Member
But if my 200ppm tap water really have 180 ppm of calcium and magnesium, wouldn't calcium excess make sense ? It would mean that huge part of my water ppm comes from calcium and magnesium, but I don't know if it's even possible that's why I'm not sure about this number I found on a report.
 

Geeked

Member
Here’s my experience and what I have noticed with any plant food rather it be liquid or disssolvable salts, I tend to notice that it’s really all gimmick ingredients claims. I really think all feeding plant food from big companies like foxfarm is all just pH up and down dissolvable salts. My advice is to use regular tap water that has high pH because when you start mixing your nutes, it’s going to lower the pH while raising the ppm. So even tho you mixed perfect ppm each feed, the pH might not be within the preferred ranges of 5.8 to 6.5 pH. So for those mixing food nutes with balanced pH of 7, you’re gonna end up having food that’s 3.0 pH.
 

Geeked

Member
I worry about pH when I’m feeding rather than ppm. No point in ppm if they can’t absorb the nutes. Also I think all these calmag and foxfarm big bloom products are all just pH up or Down products. I always mix my feed with regular tap water or really high pH water like 10+ pH cause once I achieve 900+ ppm, the ph is usually well below 4.0 pH for me.
 

Valirev

Member
Here’s my experience and what I have noticed with any plant food rather it be liquid or disssolvable salts, I tend to notice that it’s really all gimmick ingredients claims. I really think all feeding plant food from big companies like foxfarm is all just pH up and down dissolvable salts. My advice is to use regular tap water that has high pH because when you start mixing your nutes, it’s going to lower the pH while raising the ppm. So even tho you mixed perfect ppm each feed, the pH might not be within the preferred ranges of 5.8 to 6.5 pH. So for those mixing food nutes with balanced pH of 7, you’re gonna end up having food that’s 3.0 pH.
Hello, thank you for your answer, I'm not sure to understand what do you mean, once I make my nutrients solution, I test it with a ph meter, the ph in the nuts isn't the one displayed on my ph meter ?
From what I know my fertilizer doesn't even act on ph (I lower it myself with PH down) but I know some regulate it like advanced nutrients (at least I think so, "PH Perfect" thing).
I worry about pH when I’m feeding rather than ppm. No point in ppm if they can’t absorb the nutes. Also I think all these calmag and foxfarm big bloom products are all just pH up or Down products. I always mix my feed with regular tap water or really high pH water like 10+ pH cause once I achieve 900+ ppm, the ph is usually well below 4.0 pH for me.
Yea I agree to say that ph is the most important, obviously you do not care how much nuts there is in your solution if the plant cannot access it, but I I've never heard about fertilizers that would make your ph go down this much, it wouldn't make sense, not saying you're lying tho, I'm just confused and asking myself if there isn't something in your tap water that could potentialy create sort of chemical reaction that would lower the PH.
 
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VA804Hydro

Member
I was filtering my water and it came out to only 40 ppm and didn’t think about the minerals in the water that are good I just wanted the clorimates out but never thought(at first) that I was taking good and bad so I was talking to some people with tons of hydro experience and agreed with me I was taking the calcium and magnesium I needed out so added cal mag to my feeding and it helped a lot but also noticed that the grow tips with my light even say you may need to run more cal mag than normal so I started with 1 tsp a gal n says can run 1.5 per gallon so going to bump up at next feeding and see how it does thanks for the help and hope I helped out some
 

Valirev

Member
I was filtering my water and it came out to only 40 ppm and didn’t think about the minerals in the water that are good I just wanted the clorimates out but never thought(at first) that I was taking good and bad so I was talking to some people with tons of hydro experience and agreed with me I was taking the calcium and magnesium I needed out so added cal mag to my feeding and it helped a lot but also noticed that the grow tips with my light even say you may need to run more cal mag than normal so I started with 1 tsp a gal n says can run 1.5 per gallon so going to bump up at next feeding and see how it does thanks for the help and hope I helped out some
I think my case might be the exact opposite of yours, you start from filtered water and have to add calcium to help your plants not to have deficiency, I start from non filtered tap water and also add calcium supplements, I'm asking myself if my tap water doesn't have already enough (or even too much idk) calcium in it (180PPM of calcium and magnesium according to my local water source report), and my plant would suffer from an excess comming from the calcium supplements I add, potentialy locking out other nutrients like potassium.
I'll try not to add any calcium in my next mix and I'll see what happens, I'm sending this lady in the flower room soon anyway, I'd like to keep it "small" if I have to face any problem, I'll keep this post up to date until harvest or death of the plant.
 

Valirev

Member
I've got kind of a dumb question if anyone has the answer that would be cool.
I'm using a dehumidifier in my flower room, it has a small led display on it, should I cover it ? Is there a chance it could disturb light cycle or not at all ?

Little update pic on one of my Green Gelato (sry the lights are on but the pic is still cool imo)
 

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VA804Hydro

Member
I think my case might be the exact opposite of yours, you start from filtered water and have to add calcium to help your plants not to have deficiency, I start from non filtered tap water and also add calcium supplements, I'm asking myself if my tap water doesn't have already enough (or even too much idk) calcium in it (180PPM of calcium and magnesium according to my local water source report), and my plant would suffer from an excess comming from the calcium supplements I add, potentialy locking out other nutrients like potassium.
I'll try not to add any calcium in my next mix and I'll see what happens, I'm sending this lady in the flower room soon anyway, I'd like to keep it "small" if I have to face any problem, I'll keep this post up to date until harvest or death of the plant.
If the leaves that already started turning brown start to dry out and die I think it’s ok that’s what mine have done
 

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Valirev

Member
If the leaves that already started turning brown start to dry out and die I think it’s ok that’s what mine have done
Yeah that would be ok if my newer leaves weren't starting to have same symptoms, I'll put it to flower tomorrow anyway, with no more calcium fertilizer, and I'll see what happen
 

Valirev

Member
Quick "update" on my soil ladies, I recently posted pics of them but I think these girls are just like my first girlfriend, they look way better at night time ahah.
These are all 3 green gelato into week 6/7 since light schedule switch. Let me know what do you think about them =)

Also, when a seed bank tell "8 weeks of flower" we agree it's 8 weeks if you don't count the 1/2 weeks of stretch ? It's not 8 weeks from 12/12 but 8 weeks from the time where the plant really starts to flower right ?
 

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