Some Questions i Have Help me Please>

Too late Sunshine, already accepted friend request

Scoob, yeah they do make them. The higher lumen cfls are a bit pricier though. I have a couple 68 true watt cfls I use in my veg room, I think they are 4200 lumens each and cost about $16ea at home depot. 3 of those in the 2700 light spectrum and one in 5-6k light spectrum would be good.

It looks like in your space you would need mount them horizontally (possibly without reflectors) somehow so you don't run out of room when you flower. They will also generate more heat so ventilation will be more important. Maybe add one or two and see what the temps do etc. even if you cant add 4 in there any extra light will make a huge difference.

I don't want to say your buddy is wrong/lying but 3 zips with that lighting seems unlikely, maybe wet but not dried and cured.

BTW, your plants are looking way better! Good job bringing them back.

Cascadian said:

Scoob, yeah they do make them. The higher lumen cfls are a bit pricier though. I have a couple 68 true watt cfls I use in my veg room, I think they are 4200 lumens each and cost about $16ea at home depot. 3 of those in the 2700 light spectrum and one in 5-6k light spectrum would be good.

It looks like in your space you would need mount them horizontally (possibly without reflectors) somehow so you don't run out of room when you flower. They will also generate more heat so ventilation will be more important. Maybe add one or two and see what the temps do etc. even if you cant add 4 in there any extra light will make a huge difference.

I don't want to say your buddy is wrong/lying but 3 zips with that lighting seems unlikely, maybe wet but not dried and cured.

BTW, your plants are looking way better! Good job bringing them back.

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Okay i have great new i got 4 1600 lumen bulbs so im guessing that would be great and i measured the box i could fit up to 5 lights in there with no prob one thing whats something goood o use to make a reflector i mean i already have the stuff on the walls of the box so i figured if i put them in that box mounted horizontally that would be good and i already have a small but i keep the door off with ventalation because when i put the fan in there it gets way to cold maybe after i get them lights in there it will stay at regular temperture. And could you tell me a bout sucker branches or a diagram that will explain them cause i dont know none of the diffrent name of branches and whats a sucker or not and popcorn buds....

Great job all helping him his plant looks so much better in just a few days. i love this site and all the great knowledge.

Those bulbs will work better, I would go without a reflector. Air movement is important, I would at least have a fan going in the general area near the box if the cover needs to be off.

Sucker branch is any branch not likely to receive enough light or that is going to take energy from the plant that is better used on other parts of the plant. A lot of it comes down to grower preference. Anything that will stay shaded in your case is a candidate IMO.

Do I have to add the Epsom salt through foliar spar or can I just water the plant with it regularly??? And can this cause nute burn if I use it every watering?

scOOb,
My opinion is foliar is for emergencies. Epsom salts absorb fine through roots and most people just add it to water/nutrients. It doesn't dissolve easily so use warm water.

Nutrient burn is from the total PPM being to high. Just remember that overfeeding is very common so be careful. If you don't have a deficiency, and are using the Epsom for maintenance I just use 1/4 tsp/gallon. But if you're plant shows actual signs of Mg deficiency, one tsp/gallon is about max IMO though some people go higher.
JD

Help help the yellowing is back but is a reddish yellow and the ltop top canopy is dry and curled up could the lights be too hot and im going to spray epsiom salt on the plant and just sit back and wait I can't post a pic im on my phone atm but help me fast...

hey bro this should help you. and i let the soil provide the basics right now and just add 1/4 tsp of bloom 10-52-10 to gallon of water. here is what to do.
[h=1]Cannabis Nutrient And Deficiency Table[/h] [h=5][/h]




NITROGEN (N) Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

PHOSPHORUS (P) Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

POTASSIUM (K) Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

CALCIUM (Ca) Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

SULFER (S) Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (Mg) Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

IRON (Fe) Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

MANGANESE (Mn) Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

BORON (B) Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

MOLYBDENUM (Mb) Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

ZINC (Zn) White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

OVER FERTILIZATION Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.

Nice chart, I haven't seen that one before. Not sure about the P value at 52 though? I have seen a few other threads with plant problems saying they used 10-52-10, I am curious what nute brand/product it is (I am guessing it is common). Maybe if you suspect a phosphorous issue. Though at 1/4 tsp/gal wouldn't cause too many problems for short term use.

Scoob, I think your lights may be heating up the space too much. Which is why in post#22 above I suggested to add just one or two and see what the temps do. Do you have an extra fan or the ability to increase the air exchange? I would remove a bulb or two until you can figure out the issue. try to get your thermometer close to the plant tops to see what the temps are at the canopy. The epsom foliar should start showing results in 2-4 days in my experience.

• 1/4 tsp of bloom 10-52-10 to gallon of water.​
  
  
  
  

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I am sorry... The advice given will probably not hurt your plant... however.... 10-52-10 has too much "P" value... for his not that well plant...
More like a nice 10-10-10 or 5-5-5 ...
High "P" usually is for Bloom... and he is no blooming no?

So my plant is starting to form kolas/bud sites should I get some tiger bloom and change to 12/12 or can I keep vegging the plant and also will my plant double in size do I lay off the FFGB.

Most use grow nutes from anywhere from 1-3 weeks into flower then switch to bloom nutes. During flower your plant will get 2-3 times bigger. Laying off the nutes won't help that much and will cause other problems. If you think you might run out of space flower now.

Cascadian said:

Most use grow nutes from anywhere from 1-3 weeks into flower then switch to bloom nutes. During flower your plant will get 2-3 times bigger. Laying off the nutes won't help that much and will cause other problems. If you think you might run out of space flower now.

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nahh man space is cooooool I'm good for now my plant is so lush green but I have a question is droppy leaves always bad? Cause I can see the uniformity of the kolas kick in like stated and the leaves have crystals on them so I think I'm doing good had some light probe but got fixed and now I'm good that late transplant I feel wasn't a bad thing I think I'm a newbie with a hemp thumb imma upload pics in the morning just thought I should kinda update and its okay to cut off the sucker branches still right.??

Btw I cut the reflectors off and me layering my box with the car reflection its way brighter in there it ain't bad cheap set up thats why im so happy for anyone who's judging .

It looks like you have been flowering for 10 or so days? Not too late to take the sucker branches off IMO, shouldn't see them stress too much just don't go crazy stripping her down lol. Droopy leaves are ok if they are getting dry and need water but can also be from heat stress or PH. The pics will help...

SC00

I scrog too. once I scrog I let the plants grow into the scrog. I put it right down on top of the plants. I take the branches and wind them all around in all different directions. every two days I take the tips and wrap them around the netting until it's all nice and even, totally filled in. I don't flip to flower until this has happened. it has to be even and full.
then, I can see which branches are reaching the scrog and which are never gonna make it. the bottom branch is almost never gonna make it so I prune them. I also remove everything that is not on the last half of each branch. I want main arteries going to the colas, not 50 million itty bitty branches that will produce only popcorn, esp when they don't get light cuz they are underneath. by the end of the third week in flower I have cleaned up the underside of my scrog and anything that hasn't reached the trellis is nipped off. periodically I nip off any new little tiny branch because these take energy away from the tips. I only want big nugs, not tiny little kibbles of bud.

Yea its been about 12 days now lol im still nervous about cutting some branches causeat first they where small but it seems as if they have stretched because they are at the top of the canopy so idk something tells me they still gon be popcorns Here are some pics for ya bud,

Yea dude mensa i have no clue what the hell is going on cause like ive already said im in 12 days of flowering no stopping now so could you explain your method a lil better cause i feel like you was stoned when you typed that you sure wasnt sober i hope XD but it does sound interesting just explain better.

Mensa isn't a dude lol. She is saying that by trimming the small branches and anything below the scrog net the plant will direct more energy to the more efficient bud sites up top.

Sounds like the small branches are at the top of the canopy now? Either trim everything on them off below the net/where they won't get light or trim them off if you think the buds won't develop much. The plant will have to use energy just to maintain those branches.

The pics didn't come through...