LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
While 6.5 isn't optimal it's not a huge variant and depending on nutrients and plant genetics is probably not awful. Now if you were in the 7-8+ range, I bet there's a whole lot more chance of a problem.
Sooo do you PH water with Pro Mix or not?
- Thread starter RuggedWombat
- Start date
StareCase
Well-Known Member
I am going to see if I can find some of two different Pro Mix grows. One of the crops was grown with source water just left as is after adding the nutes. ( A stoner translation - the crop I grew before I bought the pH pen! ) The other was the crop grown with the source water pH'd down to the recommended range. ( Another stoner translation - the crop I grew AFTER I found out what the recommended pH range for Pro Mix was and purchased the pH pen. )
It might take me a while to find them with so many folders to peruse.
Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit proper disk space management!!
It might take me a while to find them with so many folders to peruse.
Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit proper disk space management!!
chuckeye
Well-Known Member
A member on another forum talked to a ProMix rep and was told emphatically that you do not need to ph down input water.
I took him at his word and quit using acid !
No issues at all, green right to the end. Roughly the same yields as phing down.
Cheers
chuckeye
Well-Known Member
I would say it is definitely worth the piece of mind if you don't mind messing with acid
Cheers
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
This is why I won't touch an orange or a lemon.I would say it is definitely worth the piece of mind if you don't mind messing with acid
Cheers
RuggedWombat
Well-Known Member
Time for an update! I tried to last as long as I could before feeding them nutrients to give them time to dry out after the transplant. This will be the second feeding and this time I'm trying half strength from the week 1 feeding chart at
1/2tsp FP per gallon. I gave all 3 plants about 250 PPM at 5.9 PH with 1/8th tsp of protekt mixed in for good measure. Normally I would do 1/4 tsp of FP through most of veg, but since we are dealing with an inert medium I decided to make sure solid nutrient availability will now be present through the entire medium.
The plant with the chlorosis between the veins was the plant with the crumbled root ball during transplant (could just be correlation but worth noting). I will add another pic in a couple of hours once they don't look so sad! May need to consider a minor wetting agent as well as I can tell some parts on the surface atleast didn't soak.
1/2tsp FP per gallon. I gave all 3 plants about 250 PPM at 5.9 PH with 1/8th tsp of protekt mixed in for good measure. Normally I would do 1/4 tsp of FP through most of veg, but since we are dealing with an inert medium I decided to make sure solid nutrient availability will now be present through the entire medium.
The plant with the chlorosis between the veins was the plant with the crumbled root ball during transplant (could just be correlation but worth noting). I will add another pic in a couple of hours once they don't look so sad! May need to consider a minor wetting agent as well as I can tell some parts on the surface atleast didn't soak.
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LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Water slowly and evenly and you should be ok without a wetting agent. Once you start feeding regularly and they have a bit of time to catch up, I think you'll be fine.
Derbud420
Well-Known Member
Everybody's water is different. If you're lucky, your water and nute mix lands you where you need to be. If not, adjust accordingly. My water is 190 ppm well water and is 7 pH. I am currently running gh maxibloom, kiss method, and loving it. I like the pro mix ultimate organic blend. Get it at local Menards. I don't ph shit.
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HippieFarmer420
Well-Known Member
I don't ph anything.. I water from the well, straight to the plants..
When you run full organic there is no need for adjusting ph
When you run full organic there is no need for adjusting ph
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
Maxi drops 7 down to around 6 or upper 5's. You just happen to be lucky in hitting where you want to be. I use filtered water that falls below 6, then after Maxi is in the mid 4's...so I pH up.
RuggedWombat
Well-Known Member
Plants are looking a bit better today after transplant. The plant furthest to the right is still looking a bit rough and is clearly behind on uptaking as the medium is still the wettest of the 3. Left one is looking a bit lime green which will hopefully improve once they've taken up their first solid feeding. I did 1/4 tsp of foliage pro but I may step it up to 1/2 tsp for this next feeding. Oddly 1/2 tsp of foliage pro is PPM testing almost the same as the 1/4 tsp was a couple of days ago. Minus the tap water, 1/2 tsp is still only 270 PPM going in. Feed schedule says 1 tsp through all of veg, so 1/2 tsp seems pretty safe. I usually run 1/4 tsp foliage pro through all of veg, but that's with happy frog soil. The purpling is from it getting cold as shit here at night.
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Dreaming1
Well-Known Member
When I grow in the earth, I get whatever the Ph is wherever the plant is. Organics require no Ph adjustments, but many many other things. When I grow inside, I use soilless mix and GH nutes, and I Ph down to 6.0, or my nutes come out too high Ph, and I get problems.
Now the rep from Promix can say what he says and I believe him. But, I do what makes my garden better, not what the scriptures say. And in my case the water + nutes equation = Ph too high. so, I adjust it. I Ph my plain water to 6 too. I have better results when I do. It matters in my case. Your water will be different and it may not need it.
When you want to know for yourself, try something different on 1 single plant in the group and keep notes. You will find out what works and what doesn't.
Now the rep from Promix can say what he says and I believe him. But, I do what makes my garden better, not what the scriptures say. And in my case the water + nutes equation = Ph too high. so, I adjust it. I Ph my plain water to 6 too. I have better results when I do. It matters in my case. Your water will be different and it may not need it.
When you want to know for yourself, try something different on 1 single plant in the group and keep notes. You will find out what works and what doesn't.
RuggedWombat
Well-Known Member
Time for an update! The plants are finally starting to perk up after the transplant. The one with the curled leaves is the plant that got shock from the root ball crumbling. You can see some interveinal chlorosis. Though the rest of the medium is drying out, the main roots are still a tad moist about 4 inches down or so. I'll probably feed them nutrients again tomorrow; I may even up it a bit until they start to get picky and show a bit of burn. Hopefully once they go through this dry out period they will get into a better cycle.
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RuggedWombat
Well-Known Member
I watered them yesterday with 1/2 tsp per gallon of FP. It was 280 PPM at 6 PH. Still having some issues with them being lime green with some color lightening around the leaf rim. Praying leaves on the left one with the center looking very green. The one on the right is still curling a bit. All I can come up with is maybe still moisture stress? Everything else is within range except low RH of perhaps too many nutrients that hasn't manifested as burn yet.
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7CardBud
Well-Known Member
The plants may have been potted up a bit too much. A gallon of Promix will easily support plants three times that size.
They still look good and should really take off when they get more roots established.
I did Promix with Foliage Pro in seven gallon bags this season and grew some decent sized plants.
I don't usually use liquid ferts, but I went to an estate sale and they said I could have all the stuff in the orchid
greenhouse for free. They were gonna have to pay to have it all disposed of anyway.
I switched back to Jacks321 for flower.
They still look good and should really take off when they get more roots established.
I did Promix with Foliage Pro in seven gallon bags this season and grew some decent sized plants.
I don't usually use liquid ferts, but I went to an estate sale and they said I could have all the stuff in the orchid
greenhouse for free. They were gonna have to pay to have it all disposed of anyway.
I switched back to Jacks321 for flower.
RuggedWombat
Well-Known Member
What strength did you use for most of the grow? Obviously those are MUCH larger than mine, but I'm curious what it takes to support plants that size for comparison sake.The plants may have been potted up a bit too much. A gallon of Promix will easily support plants three times that size.
They still look good and should really take off when they get more roots established.
I did Promix with Foliage Pro in seven gallon bags this season and grew some decent sized plants.
I don't usually use liquid ferts, but I went to an estate sale and they said I could have all the stuff in the orchid
greenhouse for free. They were gonna have to pay to have it all disposed of anyway.
I switched back to Jacks321 for flower.
RuggedWombat
Well-Known Member
Here is an update. The plants are looking much better and are really taking off! I'm a little unsure if the nutrients are a bit too strong as I'm seeing some light tips. I will probably top at the next feeding. I'm also keeping a close eye on the medium porosity as I'm feeding nutrients at every feeding which has me a bit concerned for salt buildup.
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7CardBud
Well-Known Member
My res was about 1.2EC on average.
0.25EC start water (mix of rain and tap)
0.1EC Silica
0.8EC DG (5ML which is about 7g)
Acid to lower pH from silica and high pH tap water
When the heatwave hit I dropped to 3mL per gallon of DG since the plants where drinking almost double.
I never went over the 5mL per gallon of DG. 165ppm of total N is plenty to veg a plant.
RuggedWombat
Well-Known Member
Hmm so 3.5g or so for veg and maybe up to 7g for flower. I had only capped out at 3.5g for flower last time and it certainly seemed like the could have used more. Only issue I can see is salt or even silica build up from the protekt. I used to feed water feed water and it makes a lot more sense to just feed each time and flush when they start getting crusty.