Spider mites 3 weeks into flower please help

greasemonkeymann · May 22, 2015

jcdws602 said:
Actually once you battle them enough and learn how they reproduce you will find that spider mites actually are not that hard to get rid of.It's hard work but not rocket science.Obviously using weekly preventatives like neem and lavender oil will keep them away but once you have them it is simply a matter of being diligent with your routine.Neem doesn't kill on contact so it is not a good idea to use on an outbreak.Now lavender oil kills them and their eggs almost immediately.I've helped many folks in their grow ops eradicate full infestations with lavender alone.

I have tried a lot of different products but they tend to either not work or just too expensive to keep applying.I had been told about lavender oil but was very skeptical of using it as I thought it just couldn't do what they claimed.I wish I would of listened a lot earlier,it would of saved me a lot of money and a lot headaches.

I appreciate the advice, albeit a tad more condescending than i'd prefer..
I have tried lavender, peppermint, habanero, neem, miticides (like five types), mighty wash, clean leaf, citrus sprays, garlic sprays, onion, basil, organic tobacco, silica and compost teas (surprisingly effective) any and every pyrethrin/azhiradactrin on the damn market..(sure i'm misspelling that), it's not killing the mites or their eggs that is the problem, it's the fact that I grow in a forest, in a shed, that is impossible to makes sealed (not sure i'd want it do be, the forest is damp..)
so I get two spot, these weird black ones, brown mites (the smaller ones that almost look like a fuzzy brown mold) and now this last year, russet mites.
It's KEEPING them away that is a bitch.
I can't constantly spray them because of the aforementioned damp forest I grow in, coan't run a dehumidifier because of the amperage draw.
So yea... it's not rocket science...but

jcdws602 · May 22, 2015

greasemonkeymann said:
I appreciate the advice, albeit a tad more condescending than i'd prefer..
I have tried lavender, peppermint, habanero, neem, miticides (like five types), mighty wash, clean leaf, citrus sprays, garlic sprays, onion, basil, organic tobacco, silica and compost teas (surprisingly effective) any and every pyrethrin/azhiradactrin on the damn market..(sure i'm misspelling that), it's not killing the mites or their eggs that is the problem, it's the fact that I grow in a forest, in a shed, that is impossible to makes sealed (not sure i'd want it do be, the forest is damp..)
so I get two spot, these weird black ones, brown mites (the smaller ones that almost look like a fuzzy brown mold) and now this last year, russet mites.
It's KEEPING them away that is a bitch.
I can't constantly spray them because of the aforementioned damp forest I grow in, coan't run a dehumidifier because of the amperage draw.
So yea... it's not rocket science...but

Didn't mean to sound condescending bro sorry if it sounded that way, anyway the two spotted mite is the most common so that is the one I am referring too.I live in the desert, the total opposite of your environment so I don't have to deal with those challenges.I actually have to have a humidifier to keep to my humidity up so spraying weekly preventatives doesn't pose any problems.

What if you sprayed outdoors around the shed ?? Maybe that would deter some of those bastards??

greasemonkeymann · May 22, 2015

jcdws602 said:
Didn't mean to sound condescending bro sorry if it sounded that way, anyway the two spotted mite is the most common so that is the one I am referring too.I live in the desert, the total opposite of your environment so I don't have to deal with those challenges.I actually have to have a humidifier to keep to my humidity up so spraying weekly preventatives doesn't pose any problems.

What if you sprayed outdoors around the shed ?? Maybe that would deter some of those bastards??

my bad for taking it wrong... the beauty of typed dialect as opposed to voice tone.. I apologize.

I probably could spray around the circumference, but it's in two sheds, and it's smack-dab in the middle of the redwoods, so literally one of the sheds is built on a redwood stump. I'm sorta ok with doing my mite "maintenance" also gives me a chance to foliar feed them silica and compost teas (those work great on powder mold by the way)
They aren't too bad, but if I get lazy, they web...
the key for me is make sure I spra at least five times, every two days for ten days prior to flowering, cuz well... after they flower, ya can't spray.. At least I refuse to do so.
Lots of air flow, and a good sticky tar to wrap around the bases of each plant (smeared onto plastic tape wrapped around the base)

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

chuck estevez said:
are you using r/o or distilled water? If not, you may be over doing the cal/mag causing lock out of other nutes.

I am using tap water that sits out for about 4 days and the Ppm starts at 370 before I add anything after it will be a Ppm of 670 I was thinking something like a secondary nutes lock out or something

chuck estevez · May 22, 2015

newguy1 said:
I am using tap water that sits out for about 4 days and the Ppm starts at 370 before I add anything after it will be a Ppm of 670 I was thinking something like a secondary nutes lock out or something

tap has plenty of cal/mag already, I bet adding it is causing a lockout. try not using it for a few and see if it improves(new growth)

jcdws602 · May 22, 2015

Kinda looks like iron def. to me......usually mag issues start towards the bottom.I think you might have to increase your base nutes a little.You only have 300 ppm of base nutes which is pretty low this far along for most strains.I would increase the ppms by 200 and wait to see if things improve.

unwine99 · May 22, 2015

jcdws602 said:
Didn't mean to sound condescending bro sorry if it sounded that way, anyway the two spotted mite is the most common so that is the one I am referring too.I live in the desert, the total opposite of your environment so I don't have to deal with those challenges.I actually have to have a humidifier to keep to my humidity up so spraying weekly preventatives doesn't pose any problems.

What if you sprayed outdoors around the shed ?? Maybe that would deter some of those bastards??

greasemonkeymann said:
my bad for taking it wrong... the beauty of typed dialect as opposed to voice tone.. I apologize.

I probably could spray around the circumference, but it's in two sheds, and it's smack-dab in the middle of the redwoods, so literally one of the sheds is built on a redwood stump. I'm sorta ok with doing my mite "maintenance" also gives me a chance to foliar feed them silica and compost teas (those work great on powder mold by the way)
They aren't too bad, but if I get lazy, they web...
the key for me is make sure I spra at least five times, every two days for ten days prior to flowering, cuz well... after they flower, ya can't spray.. At least I refuse to do so.
Lots of air flow, and a good sticky tar to wrap around the bases of each plant (smeared onto plastic tape wrapped around the base)

Lol

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

jcdws602 said:
Kinda looks like iron def. to me......usually mag issues start towards the bottom.I think you might have to increase your base nutes a little.You only have 300 ppm of base nutes which is pretty low this far along for most strains.I would increase the ppms by 200 and wait to see if things improve.

I will give it a shot thanks for the help

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

chuck estevez said:
tap has plenty of cal/mag already, I bet adding it is causing a lockout. try not using it for a few and see if it improves(new growth)

Yeah I was wondering about that I will stop using it I only plan on giving nutes for another 2 weeks than flushing for 2 and a half

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

I have them in 5 gallon buckets how much water should I run through per watering When flushing?

jcdws602 · May 22, 2015

I only flush when my plants have nutrient lock out problems usually caused by over feeding.Flushing plants that don't need it will only starve them.

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

jcdws602 said:
I only flush when my plants have nutrient lock out problems usually caused by over feeding.Flushing plants that don't need it will only starve them.

Yeah but why does everyone flush for the last to weeks than to flush all that stuff out I thought

hyroot · May 22, 2015

flushing is so you can get all the salts out of the root zone.. Flushing only rids the plants of salts not nutrients. Salt build up is what causes nute lock. Salts are accumulated from using chemical and / or synthetic fertz

another way to get rid of pests is find a plant that is resistant to those pests. pull it and maker a botanical tea with it. The bacteria in that plant that deters pest will be in that tea. You can water and foliar feed with it

chitin in worm castings and crab meal and azadirachtin in neem meal. sort of do the same thing. they are pest inhibitirs. They also trigger the plants auto immune system

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

hyroot said:
flushing is so you can get all the salts out of the root zone.. Flushing only rids the plants of salts not nutrients. Salt build up is what causes nute lock. Salts are accumulated from using chemical and / or synthetic fertz

another way to get rid of pests is find a plant that is resistant to those pests. pull it and maker a botanical tea with it. The bacteria in that plant that deters pest will be in that tea. You can water and foliar feed with it

chitin in worm castings and crab meal and azadirachtin in neem meal. sort of do the same thing. they are pest inhibitirs. They also trigger the plants auto immune system

I no that but why do they say it is important to flush for the last two weeks if balls it does is get the salts out. This is my first grow so trying to learn and understand and thanks

hyroot · May 22, 2015

newguy1 said:
I no that but why do they say it is important to flush for the last two weeks if balls it does is get the salts out. This is my first grow so trying to learn and understand and thanks

the salt build up will make for some very harsh and crackling smoke. so flush the salts.

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

hyroot said:
the salt build up will make for some very harsh and crackling smoke. so flush the salts.

I just wanted to make sure i was understanding correctly thanks

jcdws602 · May 22, 2015

A lot of people mistake watering with plain water pre harvest and flushing.....flushing is adding large volumes of water to a medium to rid of salt build up and watering with plain water is simply that watering with plain water to not add unwanted salts before harvest.

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

jcdws602 said:
A lot of people mistake watering with plain water pre harvest and flushing.....flushing is adding large volumes of water to a medium to rid of salt build up and watering with plain water is simply that watering with plain water to not add unwanted salts before harvest.

Ok so what should I do add lots of water like every 3 day's until harvest like two weeks before or should I just stop giving nutes like two weeks before and water normal?

MarWan · May 22, 2015

newguy1 said:
just stop giving nutes like two weeks before and water normal?

^^ that

newguy1 · May 22, 2015

This is one of my other babies she is doing so good. Blue magoo cross with a landrace whatever that it. Lol

Spider mites 3 weeks into flower please help

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