Spider mites, how long to shut down a grow to get rid of them?

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
g/h & organic in coco
i do indoor led cob in winter spring

sprouted seed tea
you sprout seed & when the sprout is the length of the seed you liquify it in a blender , the idea is at that stage the seed is producing a huge amount of growth hormones & enzymes & by blending in distilled ,R/O water u extract them & immediately apply to the roots , even foliar some guys do IIRC
I strain it to get most of the solids , in your case I'd top feed/dress like i do
I use blue corn as corn is a fast start grower with powerful hormones, chia, barley, can be used these are the cheaper alternatives that get the lowest priced seed
Ya soak the seed for 12 hours shake everywhile & change water 1/2 way thru (the water has a emergence limiter hormone so discard water each time u shake & never use to extrac )
then place seed between wet paper towels in a dark tub
they be ready when when the sprout is the length of the seed
wash well as discussed
liquidfy with fresh R/O
I do 2 cups seed at a time every 2 days is what i'm gonna run
I got 10lbs of seed for this summer run
that was the 1st application
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Organic
Grd fish kelp,alfalfa, various flours,humid,fulvic,coconut milk, amnio acids,yucca,wood ash ,rock phosphate, seabird/bat shit high phosphorus
LAB inoculate to breakdown all these hard bubble all day
SST every 3 day blue corn sprouted
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Dude you should make your own nutes and bottle that shit. Crazy. Is this all polycarbonate and solar? How do you cool it in the summer.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
I hear ya man, but it's a fools errand, we have four types of mites out here, and they are EVERYWHERE.
i'm literally in a redwood rainforest (well, when it rains)
believe me, I've tried it all, for five yrs now, the previous 20 yrs or so of growing I never had problems past the occasional outbreak, but it was all controllable, the problem is the forest is CRAWLING with mites, so eradication is simply not plausible.
it's all about CONTROL, which is why I spend about 600 bucks a yr on predator mites.
150 bucks an ap, and get em when it's in vege.
and the predator mites only stick around if it's a happy-medium with the reg mites, in other words if the predator mites eat ALL of the reg mites, they leave...
so ya gotta keep some around for them
What is up monkeyman? Which predator mites do you like? Lacewings? Trying to build a ladybug house to keep them around. You have to get the adults to mate and they go from egg, larvae and pupae. The Pupae eat mites not adult lady bugs.

May I ask where you get them? Any way to build a house for them to stay? Thanks.
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
. The Pupae eat mites not adult lady bugs.
both , pupae , & adult Lady Bugs eat mites , mite larva , mite eggs seen that with my own eyes under a hand scope .
I put a pint a week into the G/H no mites , i see the start of flecking every once in awhile but come hours later there's a few LB scurrying around the spot then the flecking stops immediately .
 

thenotsoesoteric

Well-Known Member
I've always had good luck with neem oil for indoor mite problems. Typically I'd bomb the room with pyrethrum and then dip/spray plants with neem for several weeks and mites die off. Also cleaning and vacuuming any adjacent areas.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
both , pupae , & adult Lady Bugs eat mites , mite larva , mite eggs seen that with my own eyes under a hand scope .
I put a pint a week into the G/H no mites , i see the start of flecking every once in awhile but come hours later there's a few LB scurrying around the spot then the flecking stops immediately .
Thanks. I saw a good you video and the guy built a little home for them with a humidity dome, natural sponge for moisture and raisins for food. He said to put it in the shade. Release them in the humidity dome not on the plants. A pint a week is cheap insurance.
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Yeah 1st year i did weed it was a mite disaster in the g/h
pred mites don't work well on weed to far to travel to eat then they eat each other , imo
LB run pretty fast & then they can fly when they need to .
when I see them fucking all over the place , it's time to get a new crew lol
look into lacewings as well
 

onegreenthumb

Well-Known Member
I've always had good luck with neem oil for indoor mite problems. Typically I'd bomb the room with pyrethrum and then dip/spray plants with neem for several weeks and mites die off. Also cleaning and vacuuming any adjacent areas.
Yes neem oil plus rosemary oil plus peppermint oil
kill the mites instantly completely safe for human consumption
nature has the answer fuck chemicals
32 Oz spray bottle, half ounce neem oil, quarter Oz rosemary oil ,quarter oz peppermint oil, squirting dawn soap to emulsify oil into water spray on never have bug problems again
this info needs to get out to every grower
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Yes neem oil plus rosemary oil plus peppermint oil
kill the mites instantly completely safe for human consumption
nature has the answer fuck chemicals
32 Oz spray bottle, half ounce neem oil, quarter Oz rosemary oil ,quarter oz peppermint oil, squirting dawn soap to emulsify oil into water spray on never have bug problems again
this info needs to get out to every grower
U use that on flowers ?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
What is up monkeyman? Which predator mites do you like? Lacewings? Trying to build a ladybug house to keep them around. You have to get the adults to mate and they go from egg, larvae and pupae. The Pupae eat mites not adult lady bugs.

May I ask where you get them? Any way to build a house for them to stay? Thanks.
the mites I use are the fallacis, and californicus.
the DO NOT work in HIDS, or high temps, the spider mites simply out-procreate them.
however in vege, and lower temps they do great.
heres the kicker though, you need to balance them a lil, meaning if you dump like 10,000 predator mites on ten plants, yea, they'll annihilate the spider mites, but when they are done, there is nothing left, and they disappear.
so you want a balance.
at any temps above probably 75, they just can't keep up.
at 90 there is NO chance at all.

they are expensive as well, usually an application is around 150 dollars for 20 plants. (money well spent though, no repeat applications)

for vege there is NOTHING else I prefer, they are reaaally good at keeping the mites down, I just gotta figure out a way to do that in flower, my 1200 watts get the temps to high
predator mites hate the heat, while the spider mites love it, soooo yea..
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
greasemonkey is right about all he posted , i found the same thing as well preds are great if the infestation is small & constant temps
high summer forget about it , once u see webs
 
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