Spots on leaves?

Garlic Jam auto. Been feeding masterblend 5gal formula (12MB, 6 Epsom, 12calnit) running sterile (pool shock).

Been feeding full strength for several weeks now. Rez changes once a week or when Rez gets down to 1ish gallons. Always keep ph 5.8-6.5 usually around 6. Ec is always less each reading. Today for example, I changed the reservoir at 11:00 a.m. *I did half strength today* and phd to 5.8. Starting EC was 1691. Checked around 6:00 p.m. tonight And pH was up at 6.5 and EC was 1630.

First thing that's coming to mind is magnesium deficiency. Maybe I should raise the epsom levels?

The leaves are dark green but I don't see any burning. Thanks!
 

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Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
Garlic Jam auto. Been feeding masterblend 5gal formula (12MB, 6 Epsom, 12calnit) running sterile (pool shock).

Been feeding full strength for several weeks now. Rez changes once a week or when Rez gets down to 1ish gallons. Always keep ph 5.8-6.5 usually around 6. Ec is always less each reading. Today for example, I changed the reservoir at 11:00 a.m. *I did half strength today* and phd to 5.8. Starting EC was 1691. Checked around 6:00 p.m. tonight And pH was up at 6.5 and EC was 1630.

First thing that's coming to mind is magnesium deficiency. Maybe I should raise the epsom levels?

The leaves are dark green but I don't see any burning. Thanks!
An Mg deficiency will look lighter green between the leaf veins, i.e. interveinal chlorosis.

Rust spots are indicative of a Ca deficiency.
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
You're at EC 3.2 which is very high.

Per @Mr. Mohaskey, that could be the issue which is causing nutrient burn.

I ran my grows at 5.8 but saw a recent Bugbee video where he recommends 6.0.

[sees that VPD is 1.08]

That's a tiny bit higher than "optimal" so your plants are transpiring slightly more than at 1.0. My take is that they're just getting too many nutrients.

Have you run that high in the past?

Rising pH and dropping EC that quickly makes me think that you're in buckets or (from the pictures) totes? Is that the case?
 
Where do you get 3.2 from?

First time running full strength. I figured because I wasn't seeing any nute burn and that the ec kept dropping that it was still hungry and wanted more.

I am growing in 16 gallon totes using 5 gallon mixtures. I ph to 5.8 and let it rise. The next day it's like 6.3 and I then ph daily to 6.0. she's on an every 3 day res change now. I let it go down to about 2 gallons.

I grown in an unfinished basement. The only thing I can control (somewhat) is the humidity.
 

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
Your VPD is in range, but I would shoot for higher Temps in the low 80s if using a LED. Then adjust your humidity to get your VPD where you want it.
 

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
Where do you get 3.2 from?

First time running full strength. I figured because I wasn't seeing any nute burn and that the ec kept dropping that it was still hungry and wanted more.

I am growing in 16 gallon totes using 5 gallon mixtures. I ph to 5.8 and let it rise. The next day it's like 6.3 and I then ph daily to 6.0. she's on an every 3 day res change now. I let it go down to about 2 gallons.

I grown in an unfinished basement. The only thing I can control (somewhat) is the humidity.
I too grow in a basement. Had to invest in oil filled heater, dehumidifier for summer, and humidifier for winter to help dial everything in.
 
I too grow in a basement. Had to invest in oil filled heater, dehumidifier for summer, and humidifier for winter to help dial everything in.
I'm not quite sure those VPD numbers are accurate anyway since I am not measuring leaf temperature.

I looked into ways to climate control the basement but it just seems impractical. It's about 1800 square feet. Any type of conditioning that I create inside the two tents is just going to get sucked out by the exhaust fan. Essentially everything will be running Non-Stop trying to condition the entire basement space. This is how I see it anyway. The final product ends up being satisfactory anyway.

This is my second dwc grow. The first one was vidamints by 2020 Mendocino and that I ran half strength the entire time. The only time I had spotting was when I wasn't changing the Rez and just topped off for a few weeks.. that grow was in 5 gallon buckets with 3 gal mixtures.

This grow currently was started with the same 5 gallon bucket (3 gal mix) but I switched to this larger tote with the front flap (5 gal mix) 2 weeks ago, pretty much when these problems started. As I'm typing this I'm wondering if it's a coincidence or not.
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
I'm not quite sure those VPD numbers are accurate anyway since I am not measuring leaf temperature.
A healthy transpiring leaf will be ~ 3-5 °F below ambient temp under LED lighting. That's from actual measurements and not speculation.
Use that value for calculating your VPD. Lower VPD for seedlings and veg, higher VPD during flowering is the general rule.

For the curious, using the simplified Tentens formula for VPD:

vpsat = .61078 * 10**((7.5*leaftemp)/(237.3+leaftemp))
vpair = .61078 * 10**((7.5*airtemp)/(237.3+airtemp)) * (humidity/100)
vpd = vpsat - vpair
 
I'd be into VPD but since I'm not able to control the temperature it seems futile so I don't bother. I can adjust my dehumidifier (in the open basement) in the summer by 5ish % (or else it runs 24/7) and I can manipulate the tent/exhaust fans for another 5% humidity but that's it. In the winter I raise the plants all the way up toward the lights and lower them as they grow.
 

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
Do you have a tent? Keep heater in tent along with humidifier and dehumidifier. Run both at preset levels the do not counteract each other or based on relative humidity levels of time of year. Run heater and exhaust fan through a temp controller. Wallah, you have a controlled environment in a tent without controlling the whole basement.
 
Do you have a tent? Keep heater in tent along with humidifier and dehumidifier. Run both at preset levels the do not counteract each other or based on relative humidity levels of time of year. Run heater and exhaust fan through a temp controller. Wallah, you have a controlled environment in a tent without controlling the whole basement.
But what happens when my exhaust fan blows out the conditioned air into the basement? And it's going to pull in the unconditioned air....
 

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
But what happens when my exhaust fan blows out the conditioned air into the basement? And it's going to pull in the unconditioned air....
Your fan shuts off more than it is on, and the environment inside the tent stabilizes. The exhaust acts as a cooling function and only turns on when Temps get too hot. The rest of the basement acts as a lung room, and should be kept cooler than the tent.
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
Where do you get 3.2 from?

First time running full strength. I figured because I wasn't seeing any nute burn and that the ec kept dropping that it was still hungry and wanted more.

I am growing in 16 gallon totes using 5 gallon mixtures. I ph to 5.8 and let it rise. The next day it's like 6.3 and I then ph daily to 6.0. she's on an every 3 day res change now. I let it go down to about 2 gallons.

I grown in an unfinished basement. The only thing I can control (somewhat) is the humidity.
PPM of 1600 (500 scale) is EC 3.2

Plants don't get "hungry". Some nurtients are brought in because to balance the electrical charge of what the plant is exuding but the other 50% of nutrients are taken up due to transpiration. If you keep adding more nutrients, those chemicals will be taken up and will, eventually, damage your plant.

EC is not an indicator of nutrient strength - it's a measure of electrical conductivity and changes when only a small number of nutrients are removed from solution.

If water is being taken up, chemicals are being taken up. N, P, and K are taken up very quickly (hours) and have little/no impact on EC when they're removed from solution. If you keep adding more chemicals, the plant has to take them up because of transpiration and the best you can hope for is to have a plant that's staggering along, just this side of toxicity.

The reason to put nutrients in the root zone is to allow the plant to take up nutrients at the sufficiency level. Once you've done that, that's all the plant needs to reach its genetic potential. Adding more nutrients simply puts more chemicals in your plants, costs more money, does not help the plant grow faster or bigger, and will, eventually, lead to toxicity resulting in a nutrient burn or imbalance.

Nutrient Sufficiency.png


The rise in pH is completely normal and it just a function of nutrients being absorbed. Conventional wisdom is that "optimal" pH is 5.8. but, in a recent video, Bugbee recommended 6.0. One fun fact is that, if you search for pictures of charts that show how nutrients are taken up at different pH ranges, there's a lot of different opinions on what is taken up at what pH. It's surprising how much variance there is.

I got a good price on a Bluelab doser so I set it at 6 and don't muck with it but, as I continue to learn more about growing, the picture I'm getting is that, as long as you stay above 5.5, it's really OK to have pH varying up to, say, 6.5 (hydro).

16 gallon totes is a good size but you're replacing 2 gallons in 3 days? That's a lot.

Re, swapping the res - that's a lot of work and there are a couple of different methods of topping off which will save you labor and $$. I'll post some papers and notes, if you're interested.

"I grown in an unfinished basement. The only thing I can control (somewhat) is the humidity."
I'm in an unfinished garage but it's in Southern California, about 10 miles from the ocean and in a tiny little area of a few square miles of the Mediterranean Warm Summer climate. That gives me temps of 70-80'ish but RH is 80-40 so it takes some hardware to "influence" the grow environment.
 
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Your fan shuts off more than it is on, and the environment inside the tent stabilizes. The exhaust acts as a cooling function and only turns on when Temps get too hot. The rest of the basement acts as a lung room, and should be kept cooler than the tent.
If the exhaust fan shuts off then the basement (and upstairs) will start to smell.:(
 
PPM of 1600 (500 scale) is EC 3.2

Really appreciate the help here!
lol where did you get PPM of 1600 from? I use the EC option on my meter.


Plants don't get "hungry". Some nurtients are brought in because to balance the electrical charge of what the plant is exuding but the other 50% of nutrients are taken up due to transpiration. If you keep adding more nutrients, those chemicals will be taken up and will, eventually, damage your plant.
By "hungry" I meant - the plant can "take" more nutrients without becoming toxic.***

EC is not an indicator of nutrient strength - it's a measure of electrical conductivity and changes when only a small number of nutrients are removed from solution.
:)Not sure I understand. My understanding is that the EC of a solution will measure how much "stuff" is in it. My tap water has an EC of .2. After adding my nutes, let's say the EC is now 2.0. After 1 day in the reservoir I will measure and the probe says the EC is now 1.5. This tells me the plant is consuming more nutes than water (and I should make my nutrient mixes stronger). If it goes up to 2.5 EC this would tell me the plant is drinking more water than nutrients (making the concentration stronger - which would tell me to make the mixture weaker). Is this the right way to think about this?

If water is being taken up, chemicals are being taken up. N, P, and K are taken up very quickly (hours) and have little/no impact on EC when they're removed from solution. If you keep adding more chemicals, the plant has to take them up because of transpiration and the best you can hope for is to have a plant that's staggering along, just this side of toxicity.

The reason to put nutrients in the root zone is to allow the plant to take up nutrients at the sufficiency level. Once you've done that, that's all the plant needs to reach its genetic potential. Adding more nutrients simply puts more chemicals in your plants, costs more money, does not help the plant grow faster or bigger, and will, eventually, lead to toxicity resulting in a nutrient burn or imbalance.

View attachment 5434154

I guess the big question here (which I haven't heard Bugbee answer yet) is whether plants will keep taking nutes to the point of toxicity or if they will "take what they need". What you're saying is that they can take too much and become toxic, which seems to be the case with my plants and is logical to me. But why doesn't this occur outdoors where the soil has much more nutrients than any one plant can consume?


16 gallon totes is a good size but you're replacing 2 gallons in 3 days? That's a lot.
My mixture is 5 gallons. I will replace the res once a week. However, in peak feeding where the plant can drink a gallon a day, I let the res get down to 1-2 gallons before swapping the res, which is about every 3 days.

Re, swapping the res - that's a lot of work and there are a couple of different methods of topping off which will save you labor and $$. I'll post some papers and notes, if you're interested.
INTERESTED! I am hesitant to top off because I'm afraid the nutes in the res will become imbalanced. That's one of the things I like about swapping - I know exactly what's in the res and I can start over every swap.

I don't actually swap these totes though. I suck out the remaining res with a shop vac and pour in the new mixture from a 5 gallon bucket.

REALLY appreciate the help here
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
"lol where did you get PPM of 1600 from? I use the EC option on my meter."
In the first posting, you wrote "Starting EC was 1691. Checked around 6:00 p.m. tonight And pH was up at 6.5 and EC was 1630."
EC cannot be that high. You can get a reading of 1600± from an EC meter because it's calculating the PPM and displaying the calculated value.

":)Not sure I understand. My understanding is that the EC of a solution will measure how much "stuff" is in it. My tap water has an EC of .2. After adding my nutes, let's say the EC is now 2.0. After 1 day in the reservoir I will measure and the probe says the EC is now 1.5. This tells me the plant is consuming more nutes than water (and I should make my nutrient mixes stronger). If it goes up to 2.5 EC this would tell me the plant is drinking more water than nutrients (making the concentration stronger - which would tell me to make the mixture weaker). Is this the right way to think about this?"
EC is an abbreviation for "electrical conductivity" and the unit of measure is microsiemens per whatchawhosit. All that EC tells you is how much current passes between two nodes in a give time (I haven't learned the details of the unit of measure).

An EC meter determines the EC and then converts that value to the equivalent concentration of NaCl or KCl that is needed to pass that same amount of electricity (500 and 700PPM) respectively. That's all the PPM is - a calculation based on the current being passed between two electrodes. It does not indicate what's in the nutrient solution and the concentration of the nutrient solution is reduced when nutrients are taken up even though the EC change is not measured by an EC meter. The reason for that is that N, P, and K are taken up very quickly but they don't cause much of a change in EC. Ca, taken up more slowly, has a greater impact on EC.

I understand the expression "consuming more nutes that water". It's very popular among cannabos growers and it's based on observation and inference but it's not correct. The underlying assumptions are, apparently, that nutrients are taken up at the same rate and, also, that the individual chemicals have the same impact on EC. Both of those assumptions are incorrect.

Plants require higher concentrations of nutrients at different stages of their growth but they don't require a consistently increasing concentration of nutrients. Nutrients are taken up as plans transpire and in response to chemicals that the plant exudes. As plants grow larger, they have more leaf surface area and, as a result, they will transpire more, assuming that the rest of the grow environment remains the same. As a result of increased transpiration, they will absorb more nutrients. They don't need a higher concentration of nutrients as a matter of course, they just need to have the nutrient solution replenished.

If EC is increasing, the plant is still exchanging nutrients with the root zone and the nutrients that are in the root zone have a high electrical conductivity than the nutrients that are being taken up. That does not mean that the plant needs a higher concentration of nutrients.

Again, I know that's conventional wisdom but that's because many growers think that EC tells you that your nutes are "strong". It just means that they have a high concentration of the chemicals in nutrient solutions that are highly conductive. It does not tell you what the mix of chemicals is. It just means that they carry more electricity.

The only way to know which chemicals are in the nutrient solution or the plant is to do a chemical anaylsis of the nutrient solution or the plant.

You can keep increasing the concentration of your nute mix and giving that to your plants and you will, eventually, move the plant into the toxicity range. Once you've done that, you'll have to flush out your soil and, hopefully, you'll reduce the EC of your new solution and the plants will recover. That practice is why industry consultants state that cannabis growers use to much fertilizer. It's a practice that's not uncommon at the commercial level and it's not uncommon at the personal grower level.

It's very rare to see a plant having issues because nutrient levels are too low. What's far more common is to see growers raising continuing to raise the EC of their nutrients or not keeping their temps+RH in range. Way down the list are making mistakes in mixing the nutes, followed by poor watering practices.

"I guess the big question here (which I haven't heard Bugbee answer yet) is whether plants will keep taking nutes to the point of toxicity or if they will "take what they need". What you're saying is that they can take too much and become toxic, which seems to be the case with my plants and is logical to me. But why doesn't this occur outdoors where the soil has much more nutrients than any one plant can consume?"
If you listen to Bugbee speak re. nutrients you will find that he recommends replenishing the reservoir with "balanced" nutrients by which he means the nutrient solution that your using for the grow.

He addresses the issue in this video:

and he discussed the law of electroequivalency, the concept of mass balance, and the speed of uptake of nutrients in the attached paper. He also talks about nutrient uptake speed in the above video but not in much detail.

My mixture is 5 gallons. I will replace the res once a week. However, in peak feeding where the plant can drink a gallon a day, I let the res get down to 1-2 gallons before swapping the res, which is about every 3 days.
In the Bugbee paper, he recommends replenishing with "⅓ strength Hoagland solution", Hoagland's being EC 1.8 but in the video he says to just replenish with a "balanced solution".

In the CannaStats paper, the author describes using just RO water and replacing the res when pH becomes unstable. I've used that approach for a few grows but, for my current grow, am switching to replenishing rather than topping off with RO.

Doing hydro with a 5 gallon bucket looks challenging. I went the opposite route, using a res that holds 28 gallons so I do three res changes during the course of a grow.

Re. changing concentration - my grow is at day 29 and my EC is 0.8. I'm getting some dark spots and I think it's because my EC is too low so I'm going to bump EC to 550-600 tomorrow. I'm growing two plants this time (I usually just grow one because my tent is only 2' x 4') but I can't quite fill a tent with one plant. The plants are undergoing a signficant growth spurt because PPM has dropped by 30 points (out of 500) in two days. If you grind your way through the Bugbee paper, you'll see which chemicals are being taken up that are causing EC/PPM to drop. Much of the N, P, K, and Mg are already in the plant but it's the "slow uptake" nutrients are are now being depleted that are causing EC to drop. Look for the section on speed of uptake and it will list out what's taken up when. That paper was an eye opener for me.
 

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