SS went anaerobic, aerated and added mycos but no web?

Hey guys, as the subject says I had a batch of SS go anaerobic on me (left my tub sealed..), it had a terribly powerful ammonia smell. I must have added too much water to my already damp FFoF. I decided I would lay it out with fans blowing over it and let it dry while turning it half-hourly overnight, and by morning the ammonia smell was gone. Later that day I added another pound of mycos and stirred it, put it on a tarp in the grow room with heating pads under it and let the fans blow over it for another day while turning it every 2-3 hours. Today there is no ammonia smell at all, however I'm not getting the mycos webbing I did when it was in the tub. I get some condensation on the tarp when the heating pads are on (they switch on with the lights) however, so it's not dry. I haven't stirred it in 2 days, I'll give it another week, but should I see anything? Should I turn the heating pads off? It's in the 30s outside and this is in the basement on cardboard to insulate it; however I think that might be too cold for it to re-"cook" in the couple (3-4?) weeks I have before I transplant into 7 gallon tubs. The seedlings are only 2 weeks old right now, think it'll be ready?

[Most] mycorrhizal fungi wont grow without a host (plant roots). Mycorrhizae products are best applied during transplants, directly to the roots.

Any "webbing" you see (mycelium) is from saprophytic fungi; saprophytes live on and breakdown dead organic matter. Such fungi are endemic to soil, humus, compost and may also be found in earthworm castings. Products which contain mycorrhizal fungi might also contain Trichoderma sp. which is a very common genus of saprophytic fungi, with species which are considered to be plant symbionts (mutually beneficial between living organisms).

Also, if you put enough organic N in there and you have a large enough pile of soil it should actually heat up a little bit (or a lot) on it's own.

Thank you, Nullis... I was about to write what you just wrote... Saved me some typing...

Another note... Trichoderma are fungi that actually feed on other fungi. It's best to avoid products with both, so that your mycorrhizal fungi can germinate (TOUCHING LIVING ROOT!) and establish themselves before you unleash an army of faster-germinating Trichoderma, which actually INHIBIT germination of mycorrhizal fungi.

Trichoderma ARE helpful, but best added after mycorrhiza are already established. This is based on my research (peer-reviewed scientific articles, not pot growing sites).

Hey thanks for the replies guys. My soil still seems to be void of any ammonia smell. It's got no webbing on it either, but of that's unimportant I wont worry about it.

Edit: Question; I've already got all of my plants transplanted in 1 gallon tubs. Am I essentially stuck until I transplant again as far as inoculating the plants?

You can inoculate with a compost tea.

I wouldn't bother trying to water mycos in, when you transplant next time add it directly to the roots. The earlier and more directly you can inoculate the roots, the better and more effective mycos can be.

the cooking process will kill any beneficials.

^No it wont. Thermophilic composting is possible because of heat-loving bacteria\archae (thermophiles). Their metabolism is heating up the pile. You can keep turning the pile to encourage the aerobic decomposition and eventually it will cool down. During the thermophilic phase some of the organisms that can't tolerate the higher temps will die off, especially deeper in the pile where it is hottest. However, enough of the other\mesophilic bacteria do survive to repopulate after the heat subsides.

I transplanted into this soil after letting it lay for for the last two weeks. So far I haven't seen any burn (roots were planted on 1" FFoF, mycos and perlite on top of 75% or so SS in the bottom 2-3" of the pots). It's been about four days since than with vigorous growth on four plants and normal growth on everything else.