Starting imputs of rols

PrometheanLeaf

Well-Known Member
Anyone with rols and no till experience, IF YOU were starting today from scratch in an urban enviorment, what inputs/insects would you purchase. And how would you go about implementing the soil.

Would you use SIP planters or pots for individual plants.

I've never done rols, and I'm not sure I will anytime this year. But I'm finding researching the topic fascinating and worthy of further knowledge from people who have been though the process.

Anything you guys have learned that you'd like to share, it would give me other point tp research; as well as additional questions.

Cheers
~PL
 

Dryxi

Well-Known Member
I am doing a No-Till Grow right now and really enjoying it. It is a 4x4 planter bed sip. It is really nice not worrying at all about nutes during the grow. Kinda just do as I feel with no specific schedule
 
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PrometheanLeaf

Well-Known Member
How do you determine when to water with a sip setup? I'm very unsure of the watering and the reammendment process without a soil test seems hard without experience.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I am doing a No-Till Grow right now and really enjoying it. It is a 4x4 planter bed sip. It is really nice not worrying at all about nutes during the grow. Kinda just do as I feel with no specific schedule
Do you feed weekly with microbial teas and top dressing?

Do you feed it anything elese

How soon after a grow can you restart the next grow.
 

Dryxi

Well-Known Member
Bi-weekly I gave them a tea and top dressed only twice (once a week before flip and then 2 weeks into flip). They are currently 4 weeks into flower.

It's my first run in this soil but I have heard you can start again right after. Maybe top dress again right after harvest.
 

Dryxi

Well-Known Member
How do you determine when to water with a sip setup? I'm very unsure of the watering and the reammendment process without a soil test seems hard without experience.
I have been mostly just filling it the day after a tea. Otherwise I don't worry about it and just watch plants. I haven't ever seen the res dry up so far.
 

PrometheanLeaf

Well-Known Member
What recipe did you use? And how many cu ft did you end up with?

Do you use a covercrop or any other special things?
 

Dryxi

Well-Known Member
What recipe did you use? And how many cu ft did you end up with?

Do you use a covercrop or any other special things?
Look up some grow journals. They normally answer all those questions. There's some on this site for no till.

And I use crimson clover as cover crop.
 
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PrometheanLeaf

Well-Known Member
Kind of why I was directing this thread to be more experienced organic growers to go over what they would do if they were to start over/what they wish they knew when they started.

I just thing the topic has quite a few answers and starting a conversation and civil discussions on the differences between grower methods.

I'm not really looking to copy a recipe as a go to right now. I'd want to fully understand every imputs and why before I started with doing it myself. As much as I respect people around here, I can't find myself trusting anyone without doing the research myself.
 

LinguaPeel

Well-Known Member
I would love a 17 bullet point list clearly defining what each nutrient/mineral does regarding the various pathways in the plant (and half a dozen most common sources of these nutes.) Thats the sort of thing I expected when I came on the internet to straighten these things out, after moving into an urban area where there is no greenery or humus . Moving indoors has been a nightmare. These forums are pretty backwards and the whole thing became a joke in my mind after seeing the kind of crap they grow in the city, where hydro stores are a thing. You'll find a list of every possible input on earth with a static nutritional value assigned to each. Potheads don't think like that! And you'll find a lot of argument equivalent to "Monster is a better energy drink than Redbull because I like the logo and got a free sample from a rep at a skateboard competition"

My experience has been outdoor hillbilly style, non growstore/forum influenced, eyeballing everything and going by instinct picking quality humus and ferments/manures. Shit rolls down hill, so mountain gullies and lake coves is where most my inputs came from. Cow patties, leaf mold and buckwheat hulls for aeration. I never differentiated much between compost manure and ferments, its the texture that matters. Its all about the microbes otherwise.

The one thing I know for sure is lactic acid bacteria makes things work without you needing too much of a clue. More soil, more bacteria: less nute input. Soil analysis didn't exist for thousands of years. Growers like MustangStudFarm, willing to post soil analysis, should be hot topic on the forums but it seems to shut everyone up. E-growing hath becometh religious dogma and senseless superstitious tradition, vane repetition to appease the manmade idols.

Microbes are definitely more important than trying to get a perfect balanced nute profile. Who even knows what a perfect balance is? The bottled products sure don't have it. Growers need to realize what's generic to plant science and what's specific to organic Cannabis where secondary metabolites are the focus, not plant fiber. Thats where I get my disdain for lab science. I know for a fact that "what you are is what you eat" applies to phenotypic expression of plants like Cannabis. Fermented grapes produce a different flavor than fermented herbs,etc. Garlic farmers have known for a long time that different varieties come from different farms due to the soil and the microbe population that soil attracts, the microbes the surrounding plants attract. The gases those plants put off.. It was 2017 before I heard a Cannabis grower suggest the same. I dont understand this lack of open brainstorming in the online grow "community". The only time I put slaughterhouse scraps in my soil the cats dug it up. I convinced myself you dont need all that extra crap. Pretty sure bones and shells are loaded with phosphorus. For micro nutes I've been using b stock knockoff brand minerals from the ConcenTrace factory. A little cheaper but still feeling like a sucker buying bottled product (since I can't find an explanation on a better way to replenish the soil without sodium overload.)

Why do I use micro nutes? Who the hell knows. Won't find an answer on RIU. The microbes respond well to them that's all I know. Which helps solidify my lunatic theory that plants grow at the will of microbes, to do their bidding, to exude their delicious carbs and make the smells they use to communicate (terpene is the oldest language in the universe). Plants are just carb factories built by microbes in my mind. I once saw a Ted talk say something similar about animal life, that microbes make us what we are. And it makes sense. A sweaty armpit doesn't smell like a sweaty fore head under a headband, yet lab science wants to claim its the same skin bacteria eating the same exudates. Its obviously not,or your forehead would smell like garlic onion funk. Different exudates, different bacteria for different parts of the factory.
 
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PrometheanLeaf

Well-Known Member
I've seen a few tests through buildasoil that shows levels of compost should be closer to 7-10% than 30%. To reach a more balanced value of phosphorus and calcium/sodium. I wonder if you are getting that problem from having an overabundance of compost as a starting point.

I'm going to look at that link for kis organics tomorrow when I'm off ANF have more time than looking at some spreadsheets of test values Jeremy( I think that's his name) had ran.

The microbial life I'm very unfamiliar with, so I feel like I'm not the one to speak up on that right now. I can however read bok and micro reports and match that to what synthetic nutes should be over my planned veg time. All subjective with no expertise though.

I'm decent at knowing what I don't know at least
 
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