wackygreendude
Member
Hello.
I have been interested in growing for a while now, but was to chicken to try it. I was acting paranoid, because I didn't feel like being arrested and going through that whole process. Then something happened. The economy went south, and the prices for the lovely plant I like to smoke, went up, and up, and up. So, I did some research, checked the laws for my state, and decided to take the plunge and grow some for myself. I spent about a year and a half experimenting, until I came up with a great way to stealth grow 4 to 6 ounces every 70-75 days in less than 15 cubic feet. It might not sound like allot, but once you get the system going, it is plenty for the average smoker.
I call it "My Paradise Chest" and I hope you all like it.
Before I go on, I want to put out the following disclaimer: "I am not an professional writer, electrician, gardener, craftsman or anything like that. I am just a regular guy who can read and follow instructions. I took what I found on the Web and put together a custom design that would help me grow the way I wanted to. I might not be exact in the number of amps being used, the wattage per kilowatt conversion, etc. I did my best to describe things as well as possible, so if there is anything that should be corrected, let me know."
I just built something that works, and it works well. So far, I have built 3 and they are all working as intended. There are some pros, and a few cons, but overall I think it is one of the best ways to stealth grow for yourself.
What I have done is very simple, and can be done by anyone that is enthusiastic about growing and can follow instructions. I used illustrations to demonstrate the concept for several reasons: I am paranoid about posting actual pictures of my grow area on the Web, my boxes are all full and I did not want to disturb my babies, and I am rather not have any evidence floating around that could come back to haunt me. I guess I am still a bit paranoid! LOL!
I plan to build another "Paradise Chest", as soon as I can find another chest freezer to use. When I build that, I will take photos and update this post. I hope to have the next one built before the end of this year.
Now with that being said, here we go.
Here is what you will need to start:
TOOLS:
Safety Goggles
Respirator Mask
Drill
Screwdriver
Razor Knife
Crosscut Saw
Dremel with 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit
1/2" Drill Bit
1" and 2" Drill/Auger Bit
Drill Bit with diameter just a tad bit smaller than the screws you use
MATERIAL LIST:
A) 1 Old Chest Freezer
B) 1 Intermatic HB88RC - 7-Day Programmable Outdoor Timer
C) 1 Outdoor/Weather proof 6-outlet Power Cord
D) 1 Oscillating fan
E) 1 AC Adaptor Class 2 Power Supply Input: 120VAC 60hz 15W Output 12VDC 600mA
F) 2 computer fans
G) 12 145W, 2700 Lumen CFL Bulbs
H) 6 Splitter Light Socket
I) 6 clamp lights
J) 1 3-Socket Outdoor Extension Cord, 3-6 foot length
K) 1 33" Piece of 2" PVC Pipe
L) 3 Soffit vent covers
M) 4 Wire Connectors
N) 1 Roll Black Tape
O) 1 Roll Duct Tape
P) 1 Metal Screen Material
Q) 1 Small Plastic Container
R) 1 Digital Thermometer and Humidity Monitor
S) 1 Electric Conduit Fitting
T) 1 Roll Car Heat Insulation
U) 1 Tube of Glue
V) 2 "L" Brackets
W) 16 1" Metal Screws
X) 2 1" Wood Screws
Y) 2 3" Metal Screws
Z) 1 2"x2"x6' Piece of Timber
AA) 12-15 7.5" White Zip Ties
BB) 2 Sheets of Fine Sand Paper
CC) 6 Velcro Computer Cord Ties
STEP ONE: Find a chest freezer to use. Without this you can't start!
The chest freezer I used is a standard size and can be found used at pawn shops, yards sales, at dump sites, going out-of-business sales and new at most hardware or home supply store.
Here are the specs for the chest freezer I am using:
14.8 cu. ft.
Height = 35 Inches
Width = 29.5 Inches
Length = 48 Inches
Make sure to clean out the freezer with bleach, and if any rusty spots exist on the floor of the freezer, sand them down. Since the inside of the freezer comes with shiny, white, reflective surfaces, you will not need to coat the inside of the chest with anything.
Done.
STEP TWO: Clean freezer and insulate the top.
Once the chest freezer has been cleaned, the next thing to do is remove the internal plastic lining from the inside side of the chest door. Open the chest door and use a razor knife to cut out the middle of the plastic. This will allow you to remove most of the plastic, which usually has a thermometer and power indicator light embedded in it. Toss this out. Now you will have a small plastic rim, maybe 1-2 inches left around the bottom of the door. I leave a small rim of plastic rather than remove the entire thing. You can remove the entire plastic liner, but I use it to help keep the insulation in place.
Once you have removed the plastic liner, cut a piece of the Car Heat Insulation to the exact size of the top of the chest freezer door. Using the liquid nails, glue the insulation to the underside of the door, while tucking the ends under the plastic liner. If you have removed the entire plastic liner, just glue the Car Heat Insulation, no tucking necessary.
Done.
STEP THREE: Remove the freezer compressor.
The chest freezer has a small grated door, located near the bottom of its left side, that can be opened by removing 4 small screws. Remove this door to reveal a small metal compartment containing the compressor. You now have access to the compressor and the copper pipes that connect it to the rest of the freezer. Cut through the pipes as close to the edge of the walls of the metal compartment as you can. Once this is done, you will have to unscrew the compressor from the unit and remove it. All the copper pipes connected to it will come out too, leaving you a small empty space to use for the 6-outlet power cord and excess wires to reside.
Done.
STEP FOUR: Cutting the intake and exhaust holes.
Now that the chest freezer is clean, it is time to cut two holes in the sides of the freezer box to accommodate for proper ventilation. Make sure to wear your safety goggles, gloves and a respirator mask while cutting. Foam particles and small metal shards will be generated during this step.
First, the intake hole. Take the Dremel and cut a Height 5" x Width 8" hole, from the inside of the area from where you removed the compressor and copper pipes. The freezer has metal walls filled with insulation and copper pipes, so take care when cutting the holes. Wear gloves and safety goggles so that the hot metal shards that are generated by the Dremel don't burn your hands or eyes. Don't worry if your hole is not perfect, it will be covered from both sides and will not be visible.
Next, you are going to cut a hole for the exhaust fans to be mounted. On the opposite side of the freezer, you are going to cut another Height 5" x Width 8" hole. Pick a place near the top of the side of the freezer, closer to the back, and use the Dremel to cut out the hole.
Clean up the metal and foam particles created from all the cutting and make sure that no short strands of metal remain around either of the holes.
Done.
STEP FIVE: Creating a path for electrical wires and the Thermometer sensor.
Take a drill, with a 1" drill bit, and bore a hole 3 inches under the exhaust hole you created. Make sure to wear your safety goggles, gloves and a respirator mask while cutting. Foam particles and small metal shards will be generated during this step. Once you are done, switch to the 2" drill bit.
On the inside of the chest freezer, one the floor, one side will have a small step in it. This step exists because of the small metal chamber that was used to house the compressor is located there. The compressor has been removed, and this space is to be used to house wires, the 6-outlet power cord and the excess wires. From the inside of the freezer, drill a 2" hole 3/4" from both the front freezer wall, and the edge of the step that does not connect to any wall. This hole should now connect the inside of the freezer with the small metal compartment.
Clean up the metal and foam particles created from all the cutting and make sure that no short strands of metal remain around either of the holes.
Done.
STEP SIX: Preparing for the wires.
I have been told that I might be overly worried about the electrical cables being in contact with the plants and water, but I rather be safe then sorry. So, if it seems that I might go a little overboard on some of my safety precautions, I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Cut two five foot sections of the 10 gauge wire that will be used to connect the fans to the AC adaptor. From the inside of the chest, insert the wires into the intake hole so that they can reach a half foot beyond the AC adaptor. Let the rest of the wire rest inside the main compartment of the chest while you finish this step.
Take the section of 2" PVC pipe and cut it so that it is only 33 inches long. One one side, cut a 1 inch half-circle into the edge of the pipe's wall. This will be the end that is inserted into the hole.
Before placing the PVC pipe into the hole, cut two H 6" x W 9" pieces of the metal screen material to cover the intake hole from both sides. Use your duct tape and tape the screen material to both sides of the intake hole. Be sure to seal all of the edges and to include the fan wires.
Now it is time to get your plastic container and place it in to the small metal compartment(accessible from the outside of the freezer) so that part of it is under the 2" hole. Slide the PVC pipe, grooved side down, into the hole from the inside of the freezer. Apply the liquid nails between the PVC pipe and edges of the hole it resides in, from the inside of the freezer. Let it dry for a couple hours.
What we have done here is create a path for the fan and light fixture wires to pass from the inside of the freezer to the small metal compartment where the 6-outlet power cord resides. Keeping all of the wires above the plant level, and away from moisture, is very important to me. The 6-outlet power cord will reside in the small plastic container with its cord exiting the same small hole that the original power cord used.
Done.
STEP SEVEN: Installing the exhaust fans.
On both of the exhaust fans, there will be a set of 3 wires attached to a white(usually, but sometimes brown) plastic connector. There will be one black, one red and one yellow wire. Cut off both of these white connectors and discard them. you will only need to use the red and black wires, so you can cut the yellow wire off. Cut off the AC adaptor connector on the opposite end of the side that plugs in to the electrical outlet.
From both of the fans, twist the ends of the red wires together, and do the same with the black wires. Place both of the fans into the exhaust holes facing the outside of the box. Use the liquid nails around the base and top of the fan housing to secure them in to place.
Pick up the two sections of 10 gauge wire, left on the floor from the previous step, and neatly secure it to the inside walls of the chest, about 6 inches from the inside top, and run it from the intake hole to the exhaust hole.
On the inside of the chest, connect the black wires with one of the 10 gauge wires and seal with black tape. Connect the red wires to one of the 10 gauge wires and seal with black tape.
From the inside of the small metal compartment where the 6-outlet power cord resides, connect the 10 gauge wire connected to the black fan wires to the black wire of the AC adaptor and seal with black tape. Connect the 10 gauge wire connected to the red fan wires to the black/white stripe wire of the AC adaptor and seal with black tape. Plug this in to the 6-outlet power cord, and plug the power cord into the wall. The fans should be running. If not, retrace your steps and make sure you have done everything properly.
Once your fans are running properly, unplug the power cord from the wall. Next, use the duct tape to secure any remaining 10 gauge wire, or fan wires, to the inside walls of the chest.
Cut two H 6" x W 9" pieces of the metal screen material to cover the exhaust hole from both sides. Use your duct tape and tape the screen material to both sides of the intake hole. Be sure to seal all of the edges and to include the fan wires.
Done.
STEP EIGHT: Covering the intake and exhaust holes.
The soffit vent covers have louvers on one side, and a screen on the other side. From the inside of the chest, place the screen side against the intake hole, making sure that the louvers are pointing down. Using 6 1" metal screws, secure a soffit vent cover over the intake hole. The louvers will help keep the light from escaping, and the screen will help with keeping the bugs out.
Next, from the inside of the chest, place the screen side of a soffit vent cover against the exhaust hole, making sure that the louvers are pointing down. Using 6 1" metal screws, secure a soffit vent cover over the exhaust hole.
Use the same procedure for covering the exhaust hole on the outside of the chest. Make sure the louvers are pointing down.
Done.
STEP NINE: Creating and mounting the light harness.
The design I use for mounting the lights evolved after several months of experimenting with different ideas. I like to have control over each of the lights, individually, so this set-up gives me that control. Each of the six light fixtures used in the chest, can be raised or lowered, independently of each other.
Measure the inside of your chest freezer from the front interior wall to the rear interior wall. Cut two pieces of the 2"x2" board to that length, making sure your cuts are perpendicular to the boards length. Measure the boards you just cut, and one third of the way from each end make a mark. Using the 1/2" drill bit, drill two holes on the marks you have made on each piece of wood. Make sure the holes are drilled on the same side of the wood.
Time to mount the 2"x2" boards to the inside of the chest. Each of the two boards will be mounted a bit differently due to their positions in the chest.
The first board should be mounted against the side wall that contains the exhaust fans. Place the board so that it is touching the front and back walls, while it's length rests against the very top of the side wall. The holes drilled in to the boards should be facing the inside of the side wall and the inside of the chest. Take two 3" screws and mount the board into the side wall. Place the screws as close to the front and back walls as possible.
Installing the second board will be done a little differently. The second board will be placed directly above the step, located in the bottom left of the chest, right over the edge that is facing the right interior wall. Take one "L" bracket and attach it to the very edge of each side of the second board. On what will become the side facing down, screw in the bracket. Make sure that the end of it is flush with each side of the board.
We must cut the dowels next.
Measure from the edge of the step to the right interior wall, add 3 inches, and cut each dowel that length. Insert the dowels into the holes of the already mounted board, Take the other board and place the exposed end of the dowel inside each of these holes. Now slowly wiggle the second 2"x2" board into place, while pushing the dowels into place. Once the board is in the correct position, mount it to the interior walls using the "L" brackets.
Done.
STEP TEN: Installing the lights and oscillating fan.
First, remove the clamps and reflectors from each of the six light fixtures... you won't need them. Once this is done take one socket splitter and screw it in to the light fixture. Repeat this five more times until all of the light fixtures have the capability of holding two bulbs each. Do not screw in the CFL bulbs yet.
Next, take three of the light fixture cords and loop them over each of the two wooden dowels. Spread them out a bit so that you have some space in between them. For each of the cords, take a Velcro Computer Cord Ties and wrap it around both parts of the cord, just under the dowel. Tighten the Velcro Computer Cord Ties so that the cord loop does not open up and slide up and down. Repeat this for the remaining five cords. If you make a mistake, it is easy to clip the Velcro Computer Cord Tie and start again.
Now that you have the Velcro Computer Cord Ties in place, lower each socket so that they are about 9 inches from the bottom of the chest floor. Raise the Velcro Computer Cord Tie so that it hits the dowel, but does not slide down. The Velcro Computer Cord Ties can be loosened and tightened each time you need to adjust the lights.
Take each cord and run them over to the PVC pipe. Plug 3 of the lights into the 3 socket extensions cord, and run the rest down the PVC pipe along with the extension cord. Plug these four items into the 6 socket power adapter that the PVC pipe leads to.
Adding the oscillating fan is easy. Place it in the freezer, on the step, run the cord down the PVC pipe, and plug into the power adapter.
Finally, take the Electric Conduit Fitting and secure it to the wood you used to make the lighting harness, making sure to place all of the cords beneath it. This will keep the cords from falling on to your plants.
Done.
STEP ELEVEN: Installing the thermometer.
Drill a half inch hole just below the exhaust fans. Take the wire containing the sensor for your Digital Thermometer and Humidity Monitor and run it through the hole so that the sensor is hanging about 4 inches from the bottom of the freezer floor. Next, take some duct tape and seal the half inch hole, while at the same time securing the Digital Thermometer and Humidity Monitor wire to the outer wall of the freezer.
Telling the temperature without having to open the top is a great help. This set-up allows for that.
Done.
STEP TWELVE: Turning the power on and testing.
Take the cord from the Outdoor/Weather proof 6-outlet Power Cord, which should be sticking out the hole the original plug came with, and plug it into the wall. If everything works, close the top and let it run for a while. See what your temperatures are throughout the day. Depending upon how much insulation you have in your freezer, and its ventilation, you should be able to keep this set up at the optimum temperatures... or at least, very close.
Done.
That is it. I might have skipped a few steps, and I know that the illustrations are not perfect, but I hope it helps. I will be building another one as soon as I find one for sale, CHEAP, in the newspaper.
If you have any questions, please ask. I will answer them and update this post to make it better in time.
IN CONCLUSION:
If you use this setup, be ready to LST. You can get a really good yield out of this system, and best of all it sounds just like a freezer running. I have had people walk right up to one of them, lean on it, and not even suspect it was not a freezer. I was dying to lift the lid and show them, but I didn't... although it was tempting.
Have fun!
FOLLOW UP NOTES:
Since I originally created this post, I have moved to a new location. I still have the old place until June, when it will enter foreclosure. So, I filmed a short video of the first freezer box that I built for one of my buddies. He finally gave it back to me in December of last year. I have built about 6 of these so far, and I own 3 of them. Lots of people around here have these for keeping extra meat and veggies frozen, so they are not hard to find. When they break, people take them to the dump, and I take them home! LOL.
Now back to the video. This is a short video of the out-building that is on the property I used to live in. It is located in a southern state, right next to the Mississippi... just so you know what the weather is like down here. I have already moved, so I am not so worried about this place too much.
The freezer grow is located in a storage shed with no type of temperature control. The freezer box contains 5 plants, one OG KUSH and the rest are bag seed. You an see the difference genetics make. There is a screen in the box to spread out the plants growth, and this model only has 8 150w CFL bulbs in it. The thermometer in the box is a cheap, place on the window thermometer, so it reads a bit hot(5-8 degrees).
The small box on the wall is about 34"x24"x14" in size. It is perfect for keeping one Mamma plant and a few of her babies.
This freezer box will produce about 3-5 ounces. The plants inside the freezer right now were cloned in December, and placed in the freezer in January. The buds should be ready in the next 4-5 weeks. It was a little cold in January and February, 55-60 degrees at night, so this slowed down the growth a bit. The freezer box will keep the plants about 20 degrees warmer than the outside temperature when it is in the 40's and low 50's. When it gets hot, it hangs around 85 degrees. Even last summer, when it was over 100 degrees, the box never surpassed 90.
Here is the video enjoy it. If you have any questions, post them below. I will check back in a few days. I hope you like it.
Watch the video
I have been interested in growing for a while now, but was to chicken to try it. I was acting paranoid, because I didn't feel like being arrested and going through that whole process. Then something happened. The economy went south, and the prices for the lovely plant I like to smoke, went up, and up, and up. So, I did some research, checked the laws for my state, and decided to take the plunge and grow some for myself. I spent about a year and a half experimenting, until I came up with a great way to stealth grow 4 to 6 ounces every 70-75 days in less than 15 cubic feet. It might not sound like allot, but once you get the system going, it is plenty for the average smoker.
I call it "My Paradise Chest" and I hope you all like it.
Before I go on, I want to put out the following disclaimer: "I am not an professional writer, electrician, gardener, craftsman or anything like that. I am just a regular guy who can read and follow instructions. I took what I found on the Web and put together a custom design that would help me grow the way I wanted to. I might not be exact in the number of amps being used, the wattage per kilowatt conversion, etc. I did my best to describe things as well as possible, so if there is anything that should be corrected, let me know."
I just built something that works, and it works well. So far, I have built 3 and they are all working as intended. There are some pros, and a few cons, but overall I think it is one of the best ways to stealth grow for yourself.
What I have done is very simple, and can be done by anyone that is enthusiastic about growing and can follow instructions. I used illustrations to demonstrate the concept for several reasons: I am paranoid about posting actual pictures of my grow area on the Web, my boxes are all full and I did not want to disturb my babies, and I am rather not have any evidence floating around that could come back to haunt me. I guess I am still a bit paranoid! LOL!
I plan to build another "Paradise Chest", as soon as I can find another chest freezer to use. When I build that, I will take photos and update this post. I hope to have the next one built before the end of this year.
Now with that being said, here we go.
Here is what you will need to start:
TOOLS:
Safety Goggles
Respirator Mask
Drill
Screwdriver
Razor Knife
Crosscut Saw
Dremel with 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit
1/2" Drill Bit
1" and 2" Drill/Auger Bit
Drill Bit with diameter just a tad bit smaller than the screws you use
MATERIAL LIST:
A) 1 Old Chest Freezer
B) 1 Intermatic HB88RC - 7-Day Programmable Outdoor Timer
C) 1 Outdoor/Weather proof 6-outlet Power Cord
D) 1 Oscillating fan
E) 1 AC Adaptor Class 2 Power Supply Input: 120VAC 60hz 15W Output 12VDC 600mA
F) 2 computer fans
G) 12 145W, 2700 Lumen CFL Bulbs
H) 6 Splitter Light Socket
I) 6 clamp lights
J) 1 3-Socket Outdoor Extension Cord, 3-6 foot length
K) 1 33" Piece of 2" PVC Pipe
L) 3 Soffit vent covers
M) 4 Wire Connectors
N) 1 Roll Black Tape
O) 1 Roll Duct Tape
P) 1 Metal Screen Material
Q) 1 Small Plastic Container
R) 1 Digital Thermometer and Humidity Monitor
S) 1 Electric Conduit Fitting
T) 1 Roll Car Heat Insulation
U) 1 Tube of Glue
V) 2 "L" Brackets
W) 16 1" Metal Screws
X) 2 1" Wood Screws
Y) 2 3" Metal Screws
Z) 1 2"x2"x6' Piece of Timber
AA) 12-15 7.5" White Zip Ties
BB) 2 Sheets of Fine Sand Paper
CC) 6 Velcro Computer Cord Ties
STEP ONE: Find a chest freezer to use. Without this you can't start!
The chest freezer I used is a standard size and can be found used at pawn shops, yards sales, at dump sites, going out-of-business sales and new at most hardware or home supply store.
Here are the specs for the chest freezer I am using:
14.8 cu. ft.
Height = 35 Inches
Width = 29.5 Inches
Length = 48 Inches
Make sure to clean out the freezer with bleach, and if any rusty spots exist on the floor of the freezer, sand them down. Since the inside of the freezer comes with shiny, white, reflective surfaces, you will not need to coat the inside of the chest with anything.
Done.
STEP TWO: Clean freezer and insulate the top.
Once the chest freezer has been cleaned, the next thing to do is remove the internal plastic lining from the inside side of the chest door. Open the chest door and use a razor knife to cut out the middle of the plastic. This will allow you to remove most of the plastic, which usually has a thermometer and power indicator light embedded in it. Toss this out. Now you will have a small plastic rim, maybe 1-2 inches left around the bottom of the door. I leave a small rim of plastic rather than remove the entire thing. You can remove the entire plastic liner, but I use it to help keep the insulation in place.
Once you have removed the plastic liner, cut a piece of the Car Heat Insulation to the exact size of the top of the chest freezer door. Using the liquid nails, glue the insulation to the underside of the door, while tucking the ends under the plastic liner. If you have removed the entire plastic liner, just glue the Car Heat Insulation, no tucking necessary.
Done.
STEP THREE: Remove the freezer compressor.
The chest freezer has a small grated door, located near the bottom of its left side, that can be opened by removing 4 small screws. Remove this door to reveal a small metal compartment containing the compressor. You now have access to the compressor and the copper pipes that connect it to the rest of the freezer. Cut through the pipes as close to the edge of the walls of the metal compartment as you can. Once this is done, you will have to unscrew the compressor from the unit and remove it. All the copper pipes connected to it will come out too, leaving you a small empty space to use for the 6-outlet power cord and excess wires to reside.
Done.
STEP FOUR: Cutting the intake and exhaust holes.
Now that the chest freezer is clean, it is time to cut two holes in the sides of the freezer box to accommodate for proper ventilation. Make sure to wear your safety goggles, gloves and a respirator mask while cutting. Foam particles and small metal shards will be generated during this step.
First, the intake hole. Take the Dremel and cut a Height 5" x Width 8" hole, from the inside of the area from where you removed the compressor and copper pipes. The freezer has metal walls filled with insulation and copper pipes, so take care when cutting the holes. Wear gloves and safety goggles so that the hot metal shards that are generated by the Dremel don't burn your hands or eyes. Don't worry if your hole is not perfect, it will be covered from both sides and will not be visible.
Next, you are going to cut a hole for the exhaust fans to be mounted. On the opposite side of the freezer, you are going to cut another Height 5" x Width 8" hole. Pick a place near the top of the side of the freezer, closer to the back, and use the Dremel to cut out the hole.
Clean up the metal and foam particles created from all the cutting and make sure that no short strands of metal remain around either of the holes.
Done.
STEP FIVE: Creating a path for electrical wires and the Thermometer sensor.
Take a drill, with a 1" drill bit, and bore a hole 3 inches under the exhaust hole you created. Make sure to wear your safety goggles, gloves and a respirator mask while cutting. Foam particles and small metal shards will be generated during this step. Once you are done, switch to the 2" drill bit.
On the inside of the chest freezer, one the floor, one side will have a small step in it. This step exists because of the small metal chamber that was used to house the compressor is located there. The compressor has been removed, and this space is to be used to house wires, the 6-outlet power cord and the excess wires. From the inside of the freezer, drill a 2" hole 3/4" from both the front freezer wall, and the edge of the step that does not connect to any wall. This hole should now connect the inside of the freezer with the small metal compartment.
Clean up the metal and foam particles created from all the cutting and make sure that no short strands of metal remain around either of the holes.
Done.
STEP SIX: Preparing for the wires.
I have been told that I might be overly worried about the electrical cables being in contact with the plants and water, but I rather be safe then sorry. So, if it seems that I might go a little overboard on some of my safety precautions, I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Cut two five foot sections of the 10 gauge wire that will be used to connect the fans to the AC adaptor. From the inside of the chest, insert the wires into the intake hole so that they can reach a half foot beyond the AC adaptor. Let the rest of the wire rest inside the main compartment of the chest while you finish this step.
Take the section of 2" PVC pipe and cut it so that it is only 33 inches long. One one side, cut a 1 inch half-circle into the edge of the pipe's wall. This will be the end that is inserted into the hole.
Before placing the PVC pipe into the hole, cut two H 6" x W 9" pieces of the metal screen material to cover the intake hole from both sides. Use your duct tape and tape the screen material to both sides of the intake hole. Be sure to seal all of the edges and to include the fan wires.
Now it is time to get your plastic container and place it in to the small metal compartment(accessible from the outside of the freezer) so that part of it is under the 2" hole. Slide the PVC pipe, grooved side down, into the hole from the inside of the freezer. Apply the liquid nails between the PVC pipe and edges of the hole it resides in, from the inside of the freezer. Let it dry for a couple hours.
What we have done here is create a path for the fan and light fixture wires to pass from the inside of the freezer to the small metal compartment where the 6-outlet power cord resides. Keeping all of the wires above the plant level, and away from moisture, is very important to me. The 6-outlet power cord will reside in the small plastic container with its cord exiting the same small hole that the original power cord used.
Done.
STEP SEVEN: Installing the exhaust fans.
On both of the exhaust fans, there will be a set of 3 wires attached to a white(usually, but sometimes brown) plastic connector. There will be one black, one red and one yellow wire. Cut off both of these white connectors and discard them. you will only need to use the red and black wires, so you can cut the yellow wire off. Cut off the AC adaptor connector on the opposite end of the side that plugs in to the electrical outlet.
From both of the fans, twist the ends of the red wires together, and do the same with the black wires. Place both of the fans into the exhaust holes facing the outside of the box. Use the liquid nails around the base and top of the fan housing to secure them in to place.
Pick up the two sections of 10 gauge wire, left on the floor from the previous step, and neatly secure it to the inside walls of the chest, about 6 inches from the inside top, and run it from the intake hole to the exhaust hole.
On the inside of the chest, connect the black wires with one of the 10 gauge wires and seal with black tape. Connect the red wires to one of the 10 gauge wires and seal with black tape.
From the inside of the small metal compartment where the 6-outlet power cord resides, connect the 10 gauge wire connected to the black fan wires to the black wire of the AC adaptor and seal with black tape. Connect the 10 gauge wire connected to the red fan wires to the black/white stripe wire of the AC adaptor and seal with black tape. Plug this in to the 6-outlet power cord, and plug the power cord into the wall. The fans should be running. If not, retrace your steps and make sure you have done everything properly.
Once your fans are running properly, unplug the power cord from the wall. Next, use the duct tape to secure any remaining 10 gauge wire, or fan wires, to the inside walls of the chest.
Cut two H 6" x W 9" pieces of the metal screen material to cover the exhaust hole from both sides. Use your duct tape and tape the screen material to both sides of the intake hole. Be sure to seal all of the edges and to include the fan wires.
Done.
STEP EIGHT: Covering the intake and exhaust holes.
The soffit vent covers have louvers on one side, and a screen on the other side. From the inside of the chest, place the screen side against the intake hole, making sure that the louvers are pointing down. Using 6 1" metal screws, secure a soffit vent cover over the intake hole. The louvers will help keep the light from escaping, and the screen will help with keeping the bugs out.
Next, from the inside of the chest, place the screen side of a soffit vent cover against the exhaust hole, making sure that the louvers are pointing down. Using 6 1" metal screws, secure a soffit vent cover over the exhaust hole.
Use the same procedure for covering the exhaust hole on the outside of the chest. Make sure the louvers are pointing down.
Done.
STEP NINE: Creating and mounting the light harness.
The design I use for mounting the lights evolved after several months of experimenting with different ideas. I like to have control over each of the lights, individually, so this set-up gives me that control. Each of the six light fixtures used in the chest, can be raised or lowered, independently of each other.
Measure the inside of your chest freezer from the front interior wall to the rear interior wall. Cut two pieces of the 2"x2" board to that length, making sure your cuts are perpendicular to the boards length. Measure the boards you just cut, and one third of the way from each end make a mark. Using the 1/2" drill bit, drill two holes on the marks you have made on each piece of wood. Make sure the holes are drilled on the same side of the wood.
Time to mount the 2"x2" boards to the inside of the chest. Each of the two boards will be mounted a bit differently due to their positions in the chest.
The first board should be mounted against the side wall that contains the exhaust fans. Place the board so that it is touching the front and back walls, while it's length rests against the very top of the side wall. The holes drilled in to the boards should be facing the inside of the side wall and the inside of the chest. Take two 3" screws and mount the board into the side wall. Place the screws as close to the front and back walls as possible.
Installing the second board will be done a little differently. The second board will be placed directly above the step, located in the bottom left of the chest, right over the edge that is facing the right interior wall. Take one "L" bracket and attach it to the very edge of each side of the second board. On what will become the side facing down, screw in the bracket. Make sure that the end of it is flush with each side of the board.
We must cut the dowels next.
Measure from the edge of the step to the right interior wall, add 3 inches, and cut each dowel that length. Insert the dowels into the holes of the already mounted board, Take the other board and place the exposed end of the dowel inside each of these holes. Now slowly wiggle the second 2"x2" board into place, while pushing the dowels into place. Once the board is in the correct position, mount it to the interior walls using the "L" brackets.
Done.
STEP TEN: Installing the lights and oscillating fan.
First, remove the clamps and reflectors from each of the six light fixtures... you won't need them. Once this is done take one socket splitter and screw it in to the light fixture. Repeat this five more times until all of the light fixtures have the capability of holding two bulbs each. Do not screw in the CFL bulbs yet.
Next, take three of the light fixture cords and loop them over each of the two wooden dowels. Spread them out a bit so that you have some space in between them. For each of the cords, take a Velcro Computer Cord Ties and wrap it around both parts of the cord, just under the dowel. Tighten the Velcro Computer Cord Ties so that the cord loop does not open up and slide up and down. Repeat this for the remaining five cords. If you make a mistake, it is easy to clip the Velcro Computer Cord Tie and start again.
Now that you have the Velcro Computer Cord Ties in place, lower each socket so that they are about 9 inches from the bottom of the chest floor. Raise the Velcro Computer Cord Tie so that it hits the dowel, but does not slide down. The Velcro Computer Cord Ties can be loosened and tightened each time you need to adjust the lights.
Take each cord and run them over to the PVC pipe. Plug 3 of the lights into the 3 socket extensions cord, and run the rest down the PVC pipe along with the extension cord. Plug these four items into the 6 socket power adapter that the PVC pipe leads to.
Adding the oscillating fan is easy. Place it in the freezer, on the step, run the cord down the PVC pipe, and plug into the power adapter.
Finally, take the Electric Conduit Fitting and secure it to the wood you used to make the lighting harness, making sure to place all of the cords beneath it. This will keep the cords from falling on to your plants.
Done.
STEP ELEVEN: Installing the thermometer.
Drill a half inch hole just below the exhaust fans. Take the wire containing the sensor for your Digital Thermometer and Humidity Monitor and run it through the hole so that the sensor is hanging about 4 inches from the bottom of the freezer floor. Next, take some duct tape and seal the half inch hole, while at the same time securing the Digital Thermometer and Humidity Monitor wire to the outer wall of the freezer.
Telling the temperature without having to open the top is a great help. This set-up allows for that.
Done.
STEP TWELVE: Turning the power on and testing.
Take the cord from the Outdoor/Weather proof 6-outlet Power Cord, which should be sticking out the hole the original plug came with, and plug it into the wall. If everything works, close the top and let it run for a while. See what your temperatures are throughout the day. Depending upon how much insulation you have in your freezer, and its ventilation, you should be able to keep this set up at the optimum temperatures... or at least, very close.
Done.
That is it. I might have skipped a few steps, and I know that the illustrations are not perfect, but I hope it helps. I will be building another one as soon as I find one for sale, CHEAP, in the newspaper.
If you have any questions, please ask. I will answer them and update this post to make it better in time.
IN CONCLUSION:
If you use this setup, be ready to LST. You can get a really good yield out of this system, and best of all it sounds just like a freezer running. I have had people walk right up to one of them, lean on it, and not even suspect it was not a freezer. I was dying to lift the lid and show them, but I didn't... although it was tempting.
Have fun!
FOLLOW UP NOTES:
Since I originally created this post, I have moved to a new location. I still have the old place until June, when it will enter foreclosure. So, I filmed a short video of the first freezer box that I built for one of my buddies. He finally gave it back to me in December of last year. I have built about 6 of these so far, and I own 3 of them. Lots of people around here have these for keeping extra meat and veggies frozen, so they are not hard to find. When they break, people take them to the dump, and I take them home! LOL.
Now back to the video. This is a short video of the out-building that is on the property I used to live in. It is located in a southern state, right next to the Mississippi... just so you know what the weather is like down here. I have already moved, so I am not so worried about this place too much.
The freezer grow is located in a storage shed with no type of temperature control. The freezer box contains 5 plants, one OG KUSH and the rest are bag seed. You an see the difference genetics make. There is a screen in the box to spread out the plants growth, and this model only has 8 150w CFL bulbs in it. The thermometer in the box is a cheap, place on the window thermometer, so it reads a bit hot(5-8 degrees).
The small box on the wall is about 34"x24"x14" in size. It is perfect for keeping one Mamma plant and a few of her babies.
This freezer box will produce about 3-5 ounces. The plants inside the freezer right now were cloned in December, and placed in the freezer in January. The buds should be ready in the next 4-5 weeks. It was a little cold in January and February, 55-60 degrees at night, so this slowed down the growth a bit. The freezer box will keep the plants about 20 degrees warmer than the outside temperature when it is in the 40's and low 50's. When it gets hot, it hangs around 85 degrees. Even last summer, when it was over 100 degrees, the box never surpassed 90.
Here is the video enjoy it. If you have any questions, post them below. I will check back in a few days. I hope you like it.
Watch the video
