Stealth LED Array light .

guod

Well-Known Member
with current flows throu the fan we see a voltage drop over D1+R2, just enough to open Transistor Q1. this will fire up Led D2. (green).
the base of Q4 has now nearly the voltage of Vb, so this transistor is closed.
if the fan failed, no current flow, there is no voltage over D1+R2 so Q1 is closed.
now we have a current flow from the base of Q4 over R5+R4 and the green led.
Q4 is now open and the led D3 (red) will fire up

R2 needs some fine tuning,
zip file contains the .ASC file for Ltspice.

fan-check.jpg
 

Attachments

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
with current flows throu the fan we see a voltage drop over D1+R2, just enough to open Transistor Q1. this will fire up Led D2. (green).
the base of Q4 has now nearly the voltage of Vb, so this transistor is closed.
if the fan failed, no current flow, there is no voltage over D1+R2 so Q1 is closed.
now we have a current flow from the base of Q4 over R5+R4 and the green led.
Q4 is now open and the led D3 (red) will fire up

R2 needs some fine tuning,
zip file contains the .ASC file for Ltspice.

View attachment 3274061

Oh my ..
I think I'll have just a red led inside the box ..
A bit of light to manually check the fan ,through the vent grills .

Big,thanx Guod.
I'll save this for future use .

Cheers.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
A " testing assembling " of the case ..(just the case )

I need some tools ...
Without 'em ,my designs , will look very "home-made' ...

Next tools I've to find and get :
-A powder coating painting system ...
- A small laser cutter ...!!!

Anyway ...

PA151665.JPG

PA151668.JPG

PA151669.JPG



Ahh ...
' They ' just don't make 'em like that anymore ...

Or ....

:P
Maybe I'm just gettin' better by time ..

Cheers.
:peace:
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Well ..Had some spare time ...

Trivial job done ,though ..

I've un-installed a red 20mA led from the rear panel ..
I had put it there ,firstplace,to shed some light into the inner of the fixture ,
so that manual inspection of the fan would be easier ...

But light was pretty dim ...

So,I've installed...ten red leds on the top lid (hood) .

Still only one lights at a time ...

PA161679.JPG


A ten led ' chaser' circuit .Powered directly from 12 V ,using a 555 timer IC and a 4017 decade counter/divider IC ..
( google led chaser for schematics ) .

Not a "knight -rider " but " led chaser "..
Like that ..One way ...(a tad slower than the vid's ..)

To give that "retro robo " feel ...
And be able to check the fan ...
:P
...
Cheers
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I want to try something ....

The Noctua NF-A14 FLX used in the fixture is a 3-wire fan ...
The third wire apart the power wires ,is the 'Tach ' wire ...
Usually it outputs a 12 VDC 'high' signal ,twice per rotation of the fan ...
So at fan speed of 1200 rpm ,it will output 2400 "high"'s per minute ..
Or 40 'high' pulses per second .

I'm going to try a simple circuit ...
A 4017 decade counter/divider along with a 10x led bar graph ..
And try to 'visualise' the fan's tach signal in a 10x led 'chaser' bar ....

Have that as a "fan OK " indication ...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
The circuit ...
tach bar meter.JPG


Pins 8,15 and 13 are grounded (connected to - ) ..
Pin 12 stays unconnected.
Pin 14 is the input signal from fan's yellow (tach ) wire ..
Pin 16 is connected to 12 V .
Circuit and fan have to be powered by the same PSU.
R1 is the leds' current limiting resistor . (600-1000 Ohms )
C1 is a noise bypass cap (100nF ceramic ) ,to smooth out power spikes /noise .

4017 pin connection.JPG

pin 4017.JPG

How it works :

Every time a high signal (+12 VDC ) inputs the pin 14 (clock input) of the 4017 IC ,
a led lits up in sequence.The previous one goes off.After the tenth led goes off ,the
sequence repeats from first led.
The high input signal is provided by the fan's yellow "tach" wire .timing.JPG

"Reset" and "clock inhibit" (pins 15 &13 ) have to be grounded (brought to low ).
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
The parts needed :
-1x BC 4017 IC ( decade counter / divider ) : ~$1
-1x 10 led bar graph (kingbright ) : ~$2
-1x 600-1000 Ohm resistor : $0.1
-1x 100nF ceramic capacitor : $0.1
(optional : 3pin connector )
PA181689.JPG


And a custom pcb for a 'clean-slick' job ..
Comin' up !!!
PA181688.JPG

Cheers.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Amazing work SDS! Now you need to mount it on the front :)
No,Mo !
It stays under the vent ...

:P

Also ..
Instead of a 10x led bar graph ,a seven segment led numerical display can be used ..
seven-segment_0.jpg

The 4017 decade counter ,has 10 outputs that can drive small 20mA leds (like 10 bar graphs & 7-segs ) .
A single seven seg ,has seven leds plus the DOT ,eight .
The 4017 offers two 'moves' more ...
So ,it can be for example a sequence of ( 4017 output # / segment ) :
1=a
2=f
3=g
4=c
5=d
6=e
7=g
8=b
9=a
10= h

and repeat ...

If put horizontally ...
.....:!:
It will make the symbol of infinity.
And afterwards a dot ..
(a big bang ! ) ...:mrgreen:
....
And then again infinity ..
Again a dot ...
...
Circling ,making drunk ,laid down " eights" and dots ,like Life-Death to Infinity ...
Meaning that the silent wind still blows ,towards the heat ,that light generates ...

..............

And then again .....
I've probably to go easy with the herb ...:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

It becomes kinda " occult " ,IYKWIM .....
:-P

Cheers !
:peace:
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
The owner of the ' SDS-IV-14 ' was kind enough to let me shoot some photos ....

Ambient temperature = 27°C
PA251721.JPG



Driving mode of the four CXA3070 Z4 : Nominal at 2100 mA .
Tc aver. = 41.5 °C ,4x Fans at max setting ( ~ 13,5 V )
Total fixture power dissipation ( at plug ) : 400 W

PA251728.JPG

Chocolopes,acapulcos & a couple of hazes ,all at 2nd day of 2nd week of flowering ....
PA251722.JPG

PA251724.JPG

PA251726.JPG


The grower here ,seems that likes heavy de-foliating !!
(Myself I'm totally against that practice,after a few test tries ...)
PA251729.JPG

Cheers.
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Well ,some progress ,at last ...

The drivers are sprayed ,with isolating-protecting special laquer ( Teslanol T7 ),
to protect their circuits from a humid / moist environment.
PA291730.JPG

Then ,they are installed at the 'engine plate " ...
:mrgreen:...
PA291731.JPG





And finally the heatsink attached to the 'engine plate'...
PA291734.JPG

PA291735.JPG

Cheers.
:peace:
 
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