Still white pistils but trichomes are cloudy ?

Joker90

Well-Known Member
And what is the NPK for flowering in their schedule?

Is there any use of PK13/14 boosters or bud exploders?

What have you been feeding them additionally to the GHE?
Npk is 8-6-11 . Nope just ghe , I did use biobizz root juice and b52 during veg but stopped when flipped to flowering . Cal mag ones or twices but that was it
 

Crumpetlicker

Well-Known Member
Hey Joker90

I think the people saying a ph imbalance are correct here
Yellowing from the top down while the veins remain green is an iron deficiency.
Foliar spray with a complete fertiliser that contains Iron, Magnesium and Zinc as these three all get locked out when a PH imbalance happens.
Top dress with good quality compost and get a soluble iron chelate to water with for fast absorption then go back to just water with seaweed.
Hope this helps
 

catdaddy516

Well-Known Member
Hey Joker90

I think the people saying a ph imbalance are correct here
Yellowing from the top down while the veins remain green is an iron deficiency.
Foliar spray with a complete fertiliser that contains Iron, Magnesium and Zinc as these three all get locked out when a PH imbalance happens.
Top dress with good quality compost and get a soluble iron chelate to water with for fast absorption then go back to just water with seaweed.
Hope this helps
Foliar spray this late in the game?
 

Joker90

Well-Known Member
Foliar spray this late in the game?
I flushed the plant yesterday followed by regular feed , should I add top soil in hope
Hey Joker90

I think the people saying a ph imbalance are correct here
Yellowing from the top down while the veins remain green is an iron deficiency.
Foliar spray with a complete fertiliser that contains Iron, Magnesium and Zinc as these three all get locked out when a PH imbalance happens.
Top dress with good quality compost and get a soluble iron chelate to water with for fast absorption then go back to just water with seaweed.
Hope this helps
What's the best way to resolve a pH issues a flush? . Is the pH issue caused by salt build up in the soil or inaccurate pH reading of nutrient solution. I decided to flush the plant yesterday evening followed by a feed solution with pH of 6.2, I can try and supplement with iron I have some cre soil which has kelp in it would this do as a layer of top soil ?
 

Crumpetlicker

Well-Known Member
If its a soil ph issue you can use sulphur to lower the ph.
The real issue could be overwatering.
Always let your pots dry out between waterings.
Lift them to see how heavy they are when they are wet then wait until they feel significantly lighter but not to the point of wilting before you water them again..
It is common to overwater in the beginning.
Maybe no need for sulphur.
 

Joker90

Well-Known Member
If its a soil ph issue you can use sulphur to lower the ph.
The real issue could be overwatering.
Always let your pots dry out between waterings.
Lift them to see how heavy they are when they are wet then wait until they feel significantly lighter but not to the point of wilting before you water them again..
It is common to overwater in the beginning.
Maybe no need for sulphur.
I don't think it is a problem with overwatering , I usually check the weight and how dry the soil is . Usually every 3-4 days I water with 2 litres of solution. My ph broke and have been using pH strips until a new pen arrives so they could be off by .5 so the soil could very well be slightly acidic . Sulfur brilliant good to know . I actually have limestone as far as I can tell it regulates pH max to about 7 . Maybe an option if no sulfur? 7 a little high . I've already flushed unfortunately . But hopefully should resolve the ph issue
 

Crumpetlicker

Well-Known Member
From my reading Iron gets locked out when the ph is too high.
So if it is not overwatering then your ph is above 7 and locking out iron.
You need to lower the ph inside your containers not raise it. That is what sulphur will do.
Be sure and ph your runoff water as well.
Water until it comes out the bottom next time and take a reading of the runoff.
That will tell you what is happening inside the pot.
Also do you lift your pots after watering to make sure the water is penetrating and not just running down the sides of the pot?
Also do you have trays to catch the water and have you tried watering from the bottom directly into the trays and let the plant drink it from there?
You could dissolve garden lime or a lime product and water it in, do not topdress with it as it repels water when dry.
Lime might be the best option to start with.
The bigger issue is why is it happening.
It is most likely the nutes you are using and maybe overusing.
If you have to lower ph once the nutes are mixed then that means the mix may be drifting back up once applied.
Organics and teas made with compost, EWC, comfrey, alfalfa, seaweed meal, mollases are a good alternative to store purchased liquid nutes and cheaper as well. Not only that they are harder to overapply and ph is not an issue.
Hope this helps somewhat. Good luck.
Post some pics when you see some improvement.
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
From my reading Iron gets locked out when the ph is too high.
So if it is not overwatering then your ph is above 7 and locking out iron.
You need to lower the ph inside your containers not raise it. That is what sulphur will do.
Be sure and ph your runoff water as well.
Water until it comes out the bottom next time and take a reading of the runoff.
That will tell you what is happening inside the pot.
Also do you lift your pots after watering to make sure the water is penetrating and not just running down the sides of the pot?
Also do you have trays to catch the water and have you tried watering from the bottom directly into the trays and let the plant drink it from there?
You could dissolve garden lime or a lime product and water it in, do not topdress with it as it repels water when dry.
Lime might be the best option to start with.
The bigger issue is why is it happening.
It is most likely the nutes you are using and maybe overusing.
If you have to lower ph once the nutes are mixed then that means the mix may be drifting back up once applied.
Organics and teas made with compost, EWC, comfrey, alfalfa, seaweed meal, mollases are a good alternative to store purchased liquid nutes and cheaper as well. Not only that they are harder to overapply and ph is not an issue.
Hope this helps somewhat. Good luck.
Post some pics when you see some improvement.
Reading runoff is bad, underfeeding is bad, the dudes just needing to stop over thinking too much.
 

Crumpetlicker

Well-Known Member
Reading runoff is bad, underfeeding is bad, the dudes just needing to stop over thinking too much.
Only one problem there, they are looking for advice.
If reading runoff is bad at least cite a reason.
If the ph imbalance is from overfeeding how do your comments help then?
Are you even for real?
 

catdaddy516

Well-Known Member
Only one problem there, they are looking for advice.
If reading runoff is bad at least cite a reason.
If the ph imbalance is from overfeeding how do your comments help then?
Are you even for real?
The one way or for a better reading of ph you would need to test near the root zone.
Now as for ppms, yes can use the runoff to test from that.
 

Crumpetlicker

Well-Known Member
They look mostly clear to me. I don't think that is an iron deficiency. Maybe a Nitrogen deficiency tho. Looks good overall if you ask me.
Nitrogen deficiency starts from the bottom shade leaves and progresses upwards. Iron deficiency starts from the top and the veins remain green.
Joker has already said that the bottom leaves remain green. But call it as you see fit. That's what I try to do. :)
 

bamboofarmer

Well-Known Member
Nitrogen deficiency starts from the bottom shade leaves and progresses upwards. Iron deficiency starts from the top and the veins remain green.
Joker has already said that the bottom leaves remain green. But call it as you see fit. That's what I try to do. :)
You're right. Not sure what i was thinking.
 
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