Stinky murky white water only when added nutrients

Mistp65 said:

If I do find a fix I will let you know ..someone before was saying it could be a calcium build up if we are using tap water and I can see that just not the stink

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Dahlioo said:

I am running a few experimemts to find the problem, i will let you know in a dsy or two how they went and exavtly what i Did

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Dahlioo said:

Bro i am having the sam problem
I am using same nutes
Also usimg hydroton

Mu ph rasises very fast thorught the day
And rez stinks after a day or 2 and is cloudy brown

I have lots of airstones (x2 foot and Half air stones in each) running in my containers and an aircompressor that is mofe then powerful enough still having these issues

Ive tried peroxide it helps temp but not perm

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Logan Burke said:

You're using an air compressor?...While an air compressor can work, they tend to put out a lesser volume at a higher pressure, which isn't so good for roots. More airstones doesn't really mean much unless the air stone you have isn't able to handle to volume of air you're pumping through it. I use a single 2 inch wide by 7 inch tall ceramic cylindrical air stone per each 5 gallon bucket, for 4 buckets, and each bucket's air stone is hooked up to a 110lpm air pump. I cannot overstate the importance of getting a proper air pump that outputs enough for the volume of water in your system. If your system relies on an airpump for dissolved oxygen, then that truely does become one of the single most important factors to the health of your roots, the res water, and your plants. Given the times we're in I understand if you cannot get a proper air pump, but I would strongly advise that you try, and as mentioned before, you really want a pump that will provide at least 1 litre per minute of air per 1 gallon of water in your dwc system. Less air than that WILL still work, it's by no means how much is required for your plant to stay alive, but it does mean that your plant's metabolism will be slower, roots will be more vulnerable to bad bacteria, and bad bacteria will generally have a higher propensity to grow and develop in the root zone. Peroxide will provide a temporary boost in dissolved oxygen while killing bad bacteria, but if you don't correct the source of the problem, it will reoccur over and over.

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Logan Burke said:

You're using an air compressor?...While an air compressor can work, they tend to put out a lesser volume at a higher pressure, which isn't so good for roots. More airstones doesn't really mean much unless the air stone you have isn't able to handle to volume of air you're pumping through it. I use a single 2 inch wide by 7 inch tall ceramic cylindrical air stone per each 5 gallon bucket, for 4 buckets, and each bucket's air stone is hooked up to a 110lpm air pump. I cannot overstate the importance of getting a proper air pump that outputs enough for the volume of water in your system. If your system relies on an airpump for dissolved oxygen, then that truely does become one of the single most important factors to the health of your roots, the res water, and your plants. Given the times we're in I understand if you cannot get a proper air pump, but I would strongly advise that you try, and as mentioned before, you really want a pump that will provide at least 1 litre per minute of air per 1 gallon of water in your dwc system. Less air than that WILL still work, it's by no means how much is required for your plant to stay alive, but it does mean that your plant's metabolism will be slower, roots will be more vulnerable to bad bacteria, and bad bacteria will generally have a higher propensity to grow and develop in the root zone. Peroxide will provide a temporary boost in dissolved oxygen while killing bad bacteria, but if you don't correct the source of the problem, it will reoccur over and over.

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Logan Burke said:

Also, it is best to rinse your hydroton prior to your grow. I pour mine into a strainer basket and run water through it until the water shows absolutely no kind of redness in color, then I rinse the hydroton with boiling water for around 1 minute to sanitize it, then run cool water over again to cool off the hydroton and then it's ready to go into netpots. By doing this process, the hydroton's ability to interfere with your PH should be very minimal. I also would advise against using distilled. It will have higher variables in PH because the water has been purified of any and all PPM's, giving it a lesser ability to hold any ph value and more likely to shift. Tap will work fine, by rule of thumb, if it is under 250-300ppms, but ideally you want RO water. Tap should work fine though. In the case that you use RO water or any form of purified water, the application of a Calmag product MAY be neccessary, but not always.
For you Dahlioo, I would say to focus on these aspects of your grow to help solve your problem:
1. Get an airpump made for hydroponics, and match the output of air with the correct size and number of air stones. Unless you're using a giant 110lpm commercial pump like mine, 1 single medium or large size cylindrical ceramic air stone should be perfectly adequate. Too many airstones will reduce the bubbles in your water, not increase.
2. Make sure your water temps are being maintained below 70F and above 60F.
3. Try to get your hands on some Hydroguard, or another quality beneficial microbe product, OR, get your hands on some HORTICULTURAL grade h202. Regular food grade 3% peroxide may not be potent enough to sterilize your res properly, you need the plant grade 30%~ grade h202. Do NOT use h202 and beneficial microbes at the same time.


I forgot to mention this to the OP, @Mistp65 , but food grade 3% h202 is not potent enough to serve as an effective sterilizing agent when mixed with your res water. It is already diluted heavily, then you combine that with many gallons of water and it simply isn't capable.

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Logan Burke said:

Also, it is best to rinse your hydroton prior to your grow. I pour mine into a strainer basket and run water through it until the water shows absolutely no kind of redness in color, then I rinse the hydroton with boiling water for around 1 minute to sanitize it, then run cool water over again to cool off the hydroton and then it's ready to go into netpots. By doing this process, the hydroton's ability to interfere with your PH should be very minimal. I also would advise against using distilled. It will have higher variables in PH because the water has been purified of any and all PPM's, giving it a lesser ability to hold any ph value and more likely to shift. Tap will work fine, by rule of thumb, if it is under 250-300ppms, but ideally you want RO water. Tap should work fine though. In the case that you use RO water or any form of purified water, the application of a Calmag product MAY be neccessary, but not always.
For you Dahlioo, I would say to focus on these aspects of your grow to help solve your problem:
1. Get an airpump made for hydroponics, and match the output of air with the correct size and number of air stones. Unless you're using a giant 110lpm commercial pump like mine, 1 single medium or large size cylindrical ceramic air stone should be perfectly adequate. Too many airstones will reduce the bubbles in your water, not increase.
2. Make sure your water temps are being maintained below 70F and above 60F.
3. Try to get your hands on some Hydroguard, or another quality beneficial microbe product, OR, get your hands on some HORTICULTURAL grade h202. Regular food grade 3% peroxide may not be potent enough to sterilize your res properly, you need the plant grade 30%~ grade h202. Do NOT use h202 and beneficial microbes at the same time.


I forgot to mention this to the OP, @Mistp65 , but food grade 3% h202 is not potent enough to serve as an effective sterilizing agent when mixed with your res water. It is already diluted heavily, then you combine that with many gallons of water and it simply isn't capable.

Click to expand...

Logan Burke said:

Also, it is best to rinse your hydroton prior to your grow. I pour mine into a strainer basket and run water through it until the water shows absolutely no kind of redness in color, then I rinse the hydroton with boiling water for around 1 minute to sanitize it, then run cool water over again to cool off the hydroton and then it's ready to go into netpots. By doing this process, the hydroton's ability to interfere with your PH should be very minimal. I also would advise against using distilled. It will have higher variables in PH because the water has been purified of any and all PPM's, giving it a lesser ability to hold any ph value and more likely to shift. Tap will work fine, by rule of thumb, if it is under 250-300ppms, but ideally you want RO water. Tap should work fine though. In the case that you use RO water or any form of purified water, the application of a Calmag product MAY be neccessary, but not always.
For you Dahlioo, I would say to focus on these aspects of your grow to help solve your problem:
1. Get an airpump made for hydroponics, and match the output of air with the correct size and number of air stones. Unless you're using a giant 110lpm commercial pump like mine, 1 single medium or large size cylindrical ceramic air stone should be perfectly adequate. Too many airstones will reduce the bubbles in your water, not increase.
2. Make sure your water temps are being maintained below 70F and above 60F.
3. Try to get your hands on some Hydroguard, or another quality beneficial microbe product, OR, get your hands on some HORTICULTURAL grade h202. Regular food grade 3% peroxide may not be potent enough to sterilize your res properly, you need the plant grade 30%~ grade h202. Do NOT use h202 and beneficial microbes at the same time.


I forgot to mention this to the OP, @Mistp65 , but food grade 3% h202 is not potent enough to serve as an effective sterilizing agent when mixed with your res water. It is already diluted heavily, then you combine that with many gallons of water and it simply isn't capable.

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Dahlioo said:

Mine have been like this since day 2 (smell and ph rising)

About 2-3weeks . your plant looks healthy and fine and not stuntes imo

Amd mine look fine bit more roots then urs
And all super white

Maybe we are worried about smell for nothing, you ever try go call GH and ask im sure they eould help us (just a thought)

Possible we both got a bad batch of it

Process of elimination wil tell me what it is ill let you know what i figure out brother keep growing it forsure!

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Mistp65 said:

Yooo sorry I haven't replied in a minute so it's on day two and no smell and ph raise is slow now .... all I did was filled water in 4l bottle let sit for 6 to 24 hours added one nut shook it then the next same thing and last nute then I put it in res ..so far so good tbh its weird and I'm so lost to as why .. but it working ... hey does this look normal like why is the little little leaf side ways ??? Am I tripping over nothing ?

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Dahlioo said:

Looks like its stretching for light, ehat light are you using and how close it to the plant?

It should be as close as losisble without burning out over heating the plant

Im glad your issue has stopped, i taped all my lids with reflective tape to prevent any possible chance of light leak, i did experiments and pg fluctuation was xaused by the hydroton not being soaled in ph water long enough (bacteria will cause swimgs as well)

Its normal to need to re ph every couple days

The smell im not sure my, temps are fine...
I taped my lids and water changed been fine for a day will keep you updated just so you have the knowledge

I trimmed off dead roots (had some root rot one 1-2 plants)

Rest are nice and white

All plants are growing well!

Here are some updated pics

Last picture is the rot

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Mistp65 said:

Hey man I'm using a led full spectrum grow let it says its 1000w.. I used a lux sensor and I get 30,000 lux from about a foot in a half a way , I did raise it at the time cause I was worried about the light being the cause . I thought my clay pebbles were doing it to but I'm good on that end..I've been on almost a week with nutes with out a problem just let the water sit in a jug for 6 to 8 hours then add my nutes and ph down and my ph has been way more steady as well way slower on the ph raising. I hope all works out with the reflective tape please do keep me updated would love to see the progress and be able to talk about it here is an updated pic I love watching the roots grow I pic her up twice a day to take a peek at the growth and I'm really starting to see her work

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