sump pump + dehumidifier + waterproof room design to prevent h&m for underground g.r?

and do not bury your access point

u will need to get in there every few days to check on plants change the feed add water to your supply and to keep them good

the way in just needs a good locking system and camo ..............the hunting thing is just a block of concert with 2 post and a cross bar (if u hunt and enjoy it this is something for u and does not look bad )

your shack idea is off from the house that looks like mad mail bomber stuff .....................try this a camp site and a greenhouse (camp site is just fire pit someseats and paths off to set tents up

this gives u a excuse to go out and work on it and why u have power on it .................the green house can be the cover for the sound of machines running and doing the venting to the place

and this is for a vegan getting back to nature thing (if not in a area hunting works then vegan hippie stuff)

pimp the camp site up some add in lighting a horse shoe pit .........some outdoor speakers and docking system ..............this is for u and the family and friends .............u can have parties and friends out there looks good ...........they leave u look in


if u really want u could do a wired camera system and leave a connection for a cellphone hook up ...............walk out hook into with phone look at room deceide if need to go in stay out ...............or a laptop

the ip cameras that has a light snad moves are 80 bucks now adays ..............stay wired this way u aviod anyone with skills finding thesingal and hacking in ...........to see u have to plug a wire into that line

thanks for the fun design problems and something new to work on

the chillies

look at growing Ghost chilli it is the hottest on the planet they had to invent a new rating system ...............india is using them in gass and spray forms for milaty

justugh said:

and do not bury your access point

u will need to get in there every few days to check on plants change the feed add water to your supply and to keep them good

the way in just needs a good locking system and camo ..............the hunting thing is just a block of concert with 2 post and a cross bar (if u hunt and enjoy it this is something for u and does not look bad )

your shack idea is off from the house that looks like mad mail bomber stuff .....................try this a camp site and a greenhouse (camp site is just fire pit someseats and paths off to set tents up

this gives u a excuse to go out and work on it and why u have power on it .................the green house can be the cover for the sound of machines running and doing the venting to the place

and this is for a vegan getting back to nature thing (if not in a area hunting works then vegan hippie stuff)

Click to expand...

All the thanks goes to you your awesome. I want to bury it at least 3ft just for personal safety satisfaction. The way its set up I can leave for a week at a time. Plus the digging it up and filling back ins a good workout its only around 18-27cf of dirt to move.

I like the mini campsite idea for back there but the deer thing won't work. Theres hardly any deer ever in these woods and its illegal to hunt in them. So I would have to hunt other places and there gunna wonder why I went 150ft back to hang my deers when I coulda do it right st my woodsline. The campground idea however has a good alibi of being that ffar back so ima do it.

The greenhouse ima leave at my woodsline and run the ducting into it from the campsite. Two sepate romex wires will be buryed underground all the way to the cener of the crawlspace where I will connect with the existing compatable wiring down there, one for the gr and one for the campsite.

As for the sound its not that huge of a grow with a soundproof ceiling and the 6ft of dirt should conciel all the noise itit'll make.

digging and filling back in will leave a trail .........the dirt will always be discolored

if u really want to have something like that build a sliding patform of dirt so u can get in there with less then a few secs of work ..............and a week at a time u will need to check more then that do to u might get a sick plant

the trap slide is simple a tray of dirt that u can lift up or slide over .......when it goes back a inch covers the cracks and slea like ground ...........save u the digging and gives a hide spot .....someone is somehting u pop in slide that over wait 30 mins then leave

oh and a 150 feet of ducting 2 ways with pipe ...................

that is a bitch ................your best choice i can think of would be to lay a 2 foot pipe .........in this pipe u will have your intake running to it in a 12 inch ducting and the exhust out would be in a 8 in ducting ..............u will need to have booster fans on the intake every 50 feet 1 inline booster .............the extra room in the tube u can use to lay your wires in this will be a dry protected area....................when the boosters fail u can crawl in and replace it

this means a 3 and half foot deep trench 150 ft from (grow room to greenhouse ) 2 foot will be the pipe and 1 and half foot for ir covering pluse u have 2 feet of backfill not used u can dome it adding on several inches for ir proofing

that trench alone is 2 to 3 weeks 8 hours a day .............rental fee and diesel


u need to keep the cover for the venting with in a shorter distance to reduce cost ...............the power line out is already 150 ft but that is simple trench line ripper layer and 2 days dicking off 1 day really laying it ..............those things are great a powered knife in the ground u can set it at the height and just walk behide direct it then u let it lay the line and the person behide just rollers the ground and grass back in place with one of those 50lb rollers u push

justugh said:

oh and a 150 feet of ducting 2 ways with pipe ...................

that is a bitch ................your best choice i can think of would be to lay a 2 foot pipe .........in this pipe u will have your intake running to it in a 12 inch ducting and the exhust out would be in a 8 in ducting ..............u will need to have booster fans on the intake every 50 feet 1 inline booster .............the extra room in the tube u can use to lay your wires in this will be a dry protected area....................when the boosters fail u can crawl in and replace it

this means a 3 and half foot deep trench 150 ft from (grow room to greenhouse ) 2 foot will be the pipe and 1 and half foot for ir covering pluse u have 2 feet of backfill not used u can dome it adding on several inches for ir proofing

that trench alone is 2 to 3 weeks 8 hours a day .............rental fee and diesel


u need to keep the cover for the venting with in a shorter distance to reduce cost ...............the power line out is already 150 ft but that is simple trench line ripper layer and 2 days dicking off 1 day really laying it ..............those things are great a powered knife in the ground u can set it at the height and just walk behide direct it then u let it lay the line and the person behide just rollers the ground and grass back in place with one of those 50lb rollers u push

Click to expand...

I thought you saI'd that the input fan would go right in the floor to create pressure on the water, and all I would need to bury to the greenhouse would be the exaust?

ok i know u did not want to do this

but cost effect is starting to go out of the door on this


u are making a green house this is my best idiea .....................ok make the green house the same size as the room below plus the tunnel

where u put the green house u dig you hole ...........u will concret the floor then u fill use a concret form to make the walls and the pathway in .........rebar the celling and then poor it in 6 inch.........from there u back fill the top .......lvl it out and poor the concret for the green house ............the way down is sticking out where u had it there u made a hood and a slide system (looks like a compost pile) u unhook a hidden latch it slides over and u have way in

all this is done one place when u are done with hiding way in u call out the electrical ppl and have them hook place up and then the venting..........u then redirect the wiring as u need with help from a trusted electrical person....

this all means u have to sit down and design this lay out the ducting to the top the ducting to the room below/water/drain/burn system .............as the plants grow they will be your screen in and out of the room the compost slider will aloww u to get in and out fast keep it covered and they can poke in the pile all they want they need to unlatch it and slide it over (the trick is on the bottom of it u have foam so it stops that hollow knock sound) combined with the fill pile


now if something does happen the room burns u clear it out start over........if hurricane comes/bad storms u have shelter .............and to anyone else looks like a cool green house .........with peppers and jasmine combied with a carbon filter /ozone gen on exhust nothing i mean nothing will find u

this is about 3/4 of the cost u are looking at ..............................the ppl doing the venting for the green house and electrical tie into system (this is insurance and look on the up and up ) the concret u can mix self on site and not rent truck.....tho renting the truck 2 times is the quickest since u are talking about 5 yards of concert or more with 4 to 6 inch walls 12x14 feet long

green house in the winter needs lighting system and heating/venting (cold air needs to warm up) to keep the plants alive do to the lower light times

fo u to have a green house with in 25 50 feet from the under ground room the way were working is cost effect but just barely ......................but 150ft of venting path the pipe and running it doubles the costs

the green house with the concret bunnker below is cheaper and will give u all u want .................alot of it can be done yourself with the making and pouring the forms .....u coat the insiide with a seal then u are golden to grown ............the green house is your cover on power and the sound of something running and removes the mold /water issuses

pls u do not have to go as far down with it directly below the greenhouse the green house itself can hide the ir singal and the smell the plants cover along with carbon scubber


u could do a 8 inch ceiling for the room and use the top as the base floor for the green house

dylan843 said:

Well the surveyor is out of the question, and I am going to do the standard angle of repose, but the soil is very thick and damp and holds together well...typically would that call for a bigger or small A.o.r.? (Depth will be be ~14ft btw, so ill have to expand on ur estimation a tad)

I went out and found a new spot to accomidate for the new spacial requirements, and I will be renting the smallest and cheapest possible excavator that will be able to do the job effeciently for one week so that should be plenty of time toget this done with a good work ethic.

Click to expand...

there are a lot more variables than how it holds together, when you open up a hole the soil is dynamic, it will change with rain and what not... without a soil test from an engineer i still recommend the standard... one and a half times the depth.

when you dig , keep the top soil seperate so it'll help disguise and blend it in; maybe plant some stuff on top
also try a mold test after build, they sell these at home depot.
as for water,im not positive how youd do that without a well or an underground hose

just remember.. they make concrete foundations for a reason...

that moisture is going to go right through the wood IMO.. i don't think youll keep up with it... (remember your sealing the wood, it's still uninsulated)

unless before you fill in, you spray foam the whole thing, because temp difference and osmosis (sweat) will be your big problem here.

you should check out this show, its on netflix, it's called doomsday bunkers. this dude builds these steel boxes for people that think the world is gonna end tomorrow. It makes a lot of sense to build the box in a fabrication shop then just drop it in the hole cause its super strong... since you are building it on site, you gotta spend a lot of time thinking about your ceiling... a 12x14 room with 6 feet of soil above (1,008 cu ft/27=37.3 cu yds) will have to support 50.4 tons of dirt above (assuming 2,700 lbs per cu yd)

honestly if i were building this i'd dig the hole, sloped correctly for safety, pour a 16x18 concrete pad, block up the walls with standard 8" block, tar the outside and french drain hooked up to your sump pump, for the ceiling, corrugated steel pan, rebar, concrete, 6" thick. I honestly wouldnt use wood for anything but the formwork for concrete. good luck


EDIT: also... WTF. I would not be recommending using explosives for someone with minimal engineering experience. justugh are you nuts???

dont fuck around with holes i agree completely with above, the only other option IMO would be spray foam but as you know, a wood structure can't support that much weight, be careful... safety first!

justugh said:

green house in the winter needs lighting system and heating/venting (cold air needs to warm up) to keep the plants alive do to the lower light times

fo u to have a green house with in 25 50 feet from the under ground room the way were working is cost effect but just barely ......................but 150ft of venting path the pipe and running it doubles the costs

the green house with the concret bunnker below is cheaper and will give u all u want .................alot of it can be done yourself with the making and pouring the forms .....u coat the insiide with a seal then u are golden to grown ............the green house is your cover on power and the sound of something running and removes the mold /water issuses

pls u do not have to go as far down with it directly below the greenhouse the green house itself can hide the ir singal and the smell the plants cover along with carbon scubber


u could do a 8 inch ceiling for the room and use the top as the base floor for the green house

Click to expand...

should I still put gravel at the bottom with the pit and the sump? How would I lay the walls on a uneven floor like this?

I would make a 3 sided wall outline that I could press against the wall, put in rebarb, then fill with concrete and move to the next wall. (Concrete won't become attached to wood outline will it? Then on the top I do abother layer of ckncrete....

is there a way I could make the trap door, cut out a peice of concrete that can be placed ljke a puzzle piece over the trap door, then build tunnel (securing bottom to concrete with more concrete.) with 2nd door and dirt tray on top of that

NEW ROOM DESIGN PLAN TO INCORPORATE NEW POINTS MADE BY YALL...PLEASE CRETIQUE

ok so first of course dig the hole with proper sloping.

Then I will dig my sump pump hole and place the sump pump inside and run the pvc pipe.

Then I will lay down a few inches of gravel, then lll lay my foundation.

Next ill mix concrete and pour it into the floor of the hole, this shouldn't be under the foundation much, aslo will lay the floor and try to get the concrete level with the floor as possible. Making sure to put rebarb around the dwelling to stick out of the bottom concret for the walls.

Then I will consturct the rest of the wooden foundation. Then I put in the concrete walls the way I mentioned in my last post.

This will leave the top of the cc walls equal with the roof hieght. From here I will build the tunnel, then lay a layer of concrete over the roof using similar technique of the walls.

Once this drys, I will incase the tunnel inconcrete the same way as the walls on a smaller level. The top of the concrete will be level, and for the door I will have a concrete slab you have to lift up. It I made this slab decently thick the weight should make it air/water tight.

The roof of this concrete will still be 3-6ft under dirt, not sure how far down the concrete slab door will be buryed.

As for all the waterproofing of the wood...all I'm gunna do it a few layers of building paper and then roofing tar and roofsheet...with the thick concrete that should be plenty to get water out.

Let me know what I think, specially you justugh

Oh and yes the exaust and cords wil be ran through the concrete also

Bump? Comon justugh don't give up on me now!

Your kinda on the right track now, but I would think about pouring a slab of concrete on the bottom, and Bessel block walls. If your going through all this effort you Mose well do it properly, I think the wood will rot very quickly

Keffa said:

Your kinda on the right track now, but I would think about pouring a slab of concrete on the bottom, and Bessel block walls. If your going through all this effort you Mose well do it properly, I think the wood will rot very quickly

Click to expand...

Well the wood is coated in waterproofing mold resistence stain tar roof sheet polyurethane...and on the outside of all that 8imches of concrete surrounding roof and walls. I really don't think the wood will rot with all of that. Maybe like years down the line or something . Besides if I'm going concrete, the wood is pretty much a guideline ( but ill still seal and waterproof anyway).