Swapping to LED for Summer

cronik john said:

Go with ac infinity customer service is amazing. Also rdj bouns makes some great lighting at good prices.

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markrossiter11111 said:

I looked at the Gold colored Infinity models 200/300 watts but sadly like the Blue Maxibrigjt ones they are just to big for a 2x2 space , Spider Farmer do have good ratings.

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Rocket Soul said:

I would probably try to finish with what you got, only see downsides to changing really and very little upside.
Dialing in light intensity and everything the last two weeks is going to be a nightmare which only risks the finish and end quality.
Its of course possible but i wouldnt advice it.

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cronik john said:

Here's a link to the rdj bouns light

Amazon.com

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cronik john said:

I run a Evo 8 and rdj bouns 720 in my tent. Pushing over 1k watts in a 5x5 . Currently I don't have problems with heat. Both ballasts are outside the tent. I get about 78 degrees no problem controlling the heat. Way more power than needed. I cut up the rdj bouns 720 watt to make side lighting I really won't go back to hps it's just too much to control the heat. Cheers

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HydroKid239 said:

+1 for the XS1500 pro. It’s a great light to use in a 2x2. Whether or not you will need all 150w depends on genetics and/or feeding habits. There’s always the option to dim it, and you can extend the life of the driver at the same time.
Here’s on next to a BP 1500 by bloom plus in a 27” x 27” x 62” tent. View attachment 5462455

Lots of fat tops in that harvest.
View attachment 5462456

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Rocket Soul said:

Led plants drink and transpire less than hid plants. So they may need a combo of a little more heat and sometimes a bit more nutes; not in totals but like in concentration; drinking less of a stronger juice. But in any case transpiration should be the first priority before messing with nutes; making sure that the plant has well stretched out leaves and nothing sloppy in it posture, generally running hotter temps. Can be tricky in start of veg; cant turn the ligh up too high and shock it, but then again low watts on lamp may not heat enough. Aim for +80F in veg, it wont hurt but actually thrive. Generally temps and light intensity go up at the same time as your hardening the plant. You have all the extra watts youll ever need, i would advice against trying to max wattage your first run and go very slow with raising intensity. Light stunted led plants are problematic for ages. Once you get the hang of it youll be able to give more light but i truly thing that a 50w per square foot with centre hotspot with limited height is a recipe for light stunting and bleaching.

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jimihendrix1 said:

Yeah in most applications, 50w sq/ft would be complete overkill. Better have some heavy duty ventilation/CO2 supplementation. Or they would be doomed. Especially in a tent.

I think tents can be a good idea, but I also think they are a recipe for having a hard time to get enough fresh air exchange, to use extremely high amounts of light. Im growing in a huge attic,40 x 35 x 7-10ft ceilings, depending on location in attic, and have 4 windows, and a roof ventilator. Plus a ox fan going 24/7.
Though, as if right now, Im only able to use about a 6 x 6 area, and 1 x 1000w Hortilux HPS for flowering. I vegged with a 1000w 6000k Halide.

Reason I use 40w sq/ft, is because when Gavita introduced their 1700e, it was billed as a direct replacement for a 1000w HID, in a 4 x 4 area. This was straight from them. Actually it comes out to 40.31w sq/ft.

The 1700e, is 645w. So of course I just divided 645w x 16 sq/ft, and come up with 40.3w-sq/ft. I know LED have got a BIT more efficient, but, not that much. Might be down to 38w sq/ft, with the very best of them. A 645w Gavita 1700e is 1700umol, and a 1000w Hortilux HPS, is 1650umol. So, thats how I determine what I would use, as I mainly use HID, and if I want to use an LED, I want it to have the same amount of light sq/ft, ad an HID. And its said, LED is about 1/3 more efficient. 1/3 of 1000w is 666 2/3w.

So instead of going by what people say, I just go with what Gavita has done the research on. And for sure less w sq/ft will still grow weed. I also believe one should take fresh air exchange, as a main priority vs how intense of a light to use.

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jimihendrix1 said:

Yeah in most applications, 50w sq/ft would be complete overkill. Better have some heavy duty ventilation/CO2 supplementation. Or they would be doomed. Especially in a tent.

I think tents can be a good idea, but I also think they are a recipe for having a hard time to get enough fresh air exchange, to use extremely high amounts of light. Im growing in a huge attic,40 x 35 x 7-10ft ceilings, depending on location in attic, and have 4 windows, and a roof ventilator. Plus a ox fan going 24/7.
Though, as if right now, Im only able to use about a 6 x 6 area, and 1 x 1000w Hortilux HPS for flowering. I vegged with a 1000w 6000k Halide.

Reason I use 40w sq/ft, is because when Gavita introduced their 1700e, it was billed as a direct replacement for a 1000w HID, in a 4 x 4 area. This was straight from them. Actually it comes out to 40.31w sq/ft.

The 1700e, is 645w. So of course I just divided 645w x 16 sq/ft, and come up with 40.3w-sq/ft. I know LED have got a BIT more efficient, but, not that much. Might be down to 38w sq/ft, with the very best of them. A 645w Gavita 1700e is 1700umol, and a 1000w Hortilux HPS, is 1650umol. So, thats how I determine what I would use, as I mainly use HID, and if I want to use an LED, I want it to have the same amount of light sq/ft, ad an HID. And its said, LED is about 1/3 more efficient. 1/3 of 1000w is 666 2/3w.

So instead of going by what people say, I just go with what Gavita has done the research on. And for sure less w sq/ft will still grow weed. I also believe one should take fresh air exchange, as a main priority vs how intense of a light to use.

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markrossiter11111 said:

Yeah it's a 10 week strain

" Intensity and everything "

Please elaborate as I'm still tempted as I'm running 28* c 82.4 f temp and having to run my humidifier higher to try and cool it ,

Will it be as bad as I'm fighting now ?

Feel my pain lol

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Rocket Soul said:

For a single tray, in an open space without reflective walls id do the same as you, go for 40w per foot. Theres more light lost in the sides. A tent is better at bouncing back the light. Also the gavita is a bar light (iirc) which spreads the light a bit better.

Dont know about your current situation, and tbh i wouldnt be able to give a 100% instruction on everything to change if youre already halfway thru flower. Apart from temps and rh you may need to adjust nte strength. Even leaves grow different levels of chlorophyll according to spectrum, and leds are quite different to hps spectrum. Ive only seen people change midflower a couple of times on forums and it ive not seen anyone to it without any glitch, and usually clusterfuck.

What i can o say is that its easier to do led tweaking a little bit at a time, letting environment, nutes how tall they grow adjust itself in a natural step by step fashion. If someone can coach you thru midflower change be my guest i wouldnt know how to adjust to this.

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markrossiter11111 said:

It's totally dimmable in 20% variants ,

If you can control the heat and humidity I don't believe you can give cannabis too much light ,
They grow outdoors , with our lights we are replicating the Sun.
We can't even get close to matching it so I find the to much light theory a tad ridiculous ,
Like I said I have always used hps , we get as close as possible with what the heat will allow right ?
I will be giving them as much light as possible !
Fluffy buds scare me and this isn't just strain dependant ,
If you have under power lights the result is fluffy pop corn , I know I have been there.
My air exchange is bang on

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