Switch to RO System

ntg908

ntg908

Well-Known Member
Im considering buying an RO system, my tap water as im told is pretty fine at 120ppms but i never "de chlorinate" or anything for 24 hours and some people tell me differing things about it. I have all the supplements i would need already, as i have a full GH line, but was wondering if its worth spending the extra money and if i will see a noticeable difference
 
Bucsfan80

Bucsfan80

Well-Known Member
ntg908 said:
Im considering buying an RO system, my tap water as im told is pretty fine at 120ppms but i never "de chlorinate" or anything for 24 hours and some people tell me differing things about it. I have all the supplements i would need already, as i have a full GH line, but was wondering if its worth spending the extra money and if i will see a noticeable difference
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How big of a rez? I thought about R/O, my tap water comes out 50-60 ppm but still worried about pathogens. So I got a filtration system that takes out the chloramine and pathogens supposedly. So pretty much bottled water out of the tap.its about 35-40 ppm. It says it leaves the good minerals and shit but I don't know because I don't have a test for all that. Long story short it works and don't have a limit on gallons per day. She seems to love it!
 

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dwc420letsgo

dwc420letsgo

Well-Known Member
i used uc roots which is the same but i can get expensive. I used like two caps (like 3mL) on a 5gal rez. How much of a gap did u leave between water and netpot? And did u have an air pump with stones?
 
ntg908

ntg908

Well-Known Member
I got 5 gallons but people say to set an air stone in the tap overnight to get the chlorine out, some people say tap is fine because it has micros and with ro you need a ton more additives. Was just wondering if there is any benefit aside from knowing exactly everything in the water
 
dwc420letsgo

dwc420letsgo

Well-Known Member
It helps keeping a stable ph and starting at 0ppm so u know exactly what is in. If ur tap water source is at that ppm, I wouldn’t bother personally unless u had hard water.
 
Bucsfan80

Bucsfan80

Well-Known Member
ntg908 said:
I got 5 gallons but people say to set an air stone in the tap overnight to get the chlorine out, some people say tap is fine because it has micros and with ro you need a ton more additives. Was just wondering if there is any benefit aside from knowing exactly everything in the water
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I never let mine sit over night when I used tap but that don't mean it dont help. Kinda just sounds like more work to me lol I wish you luck how ever you end up running.
 
Mookjong

Mookjong

Well-Known Member
So from what I gather, I too want an RO setup, the more stages and filters you use the more the ph will drift downward. I think the cheat code here is to only use the R/o filter and not all the other filters. Aiming for 30-50 ppm for a more neutral ph that doesn't drifts as hard and pure 0 ppm can. I guess the more oxygen 0ppm water gets, the more it can drift downward or become acidic. I think that little bit of ppm actually helps us by preventing that drift. I just don't have the experience to say if this is good practice. Just my current understanding. This is the setup I am looking into buying. Hoping someone could point out what I'm overlooking.
https://hydrobuilder.com/hydroponics/water-filtration-and-treatment/reverse-osmosis-ro-water-filters/hydro-logic-micro-75-gpd-revese-osmosis-filter.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw16KFBhCgARIsALB0g8J9iGAs-WCeQloydFBbReao5FEkSz1XUvlzhpemvylJVMw7HO2yUCgaArYHEALw_wcB

I have the money to get more stages but i think it may just add more unnecessary work. Hoping to learn enough from someone who does now so I can just buy this thing or something similar.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
Mookjong said:
So from what I gather, I too want an RO setup, the more stages and filters you use the more the ph will drift downward. I think the cheat code here is to only use the R/o filter and not all the other filters. Aiming for 30-50 ppm for a more neutral ph that doesn't drifts as hard and pure 0 ppm can. I guess the more oxygen 0ppm water gets, the more it can drift downward or become acidic. I think that little bit of ppm actually helps us by preventing that drift. I just don't have the experience to say if this is good practice. Just my current understanding. This is the setup I am looking into buying. Hoping someone could point out what I'm overlooking.
https://hydrobuilder.com/hydroponics/water-filtration-and-treatment/reverse-osmosis-ro-water-filters/hydro-logic-micro-75-gpd-revese-osmosis-filter.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw16KFBhCgARIsALB0g8J9iGAs-WCeQloydFBbReao5FEkSz1XUvlzhpemvylJVMw7HO2yUCgaArYHEALw_wcB

I have the money to get more stages but i think it may just add more unnecessary work. Hoping to learn enough from someone who does now so I can just buy this thing or something similar.
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I would avoid those hydro logic units. The filter life is absurdly short before they start pushing out 70ppm water after filtration. And the exchange ratio is 2:1 so you're dumping 2 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of RO. I'd recommend this 4 stage 150gpd water saver unit with a 1:1 exchange ratio. While you may not need to make 150gpd due to the size of the unit you will quickly make water when you need it and the filters will last you at least 1 year before you need to replace the carbon blocks and sediment filter which are cheap. I don't believe they offer a smaller gpd unit in the water saver models. I love mine and didn't have to service any of the filters for 1 year with the exception of the DI resin in the 5th stage. $12 if I remember right.
 
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