switching between hps and mh durring bloom.

I find this interesting as I have NEVER heard of MH being superior to HPS during flowering.
If this were true then I'm sure it would be well known by now.
Even in that link that you posted right above one of the charts it says that HPS promotes heavy flowering.
No disrespect,just never heard of this.
I agree.

Regardless of what anyone says here, no offence. I get best results using both MH and HPS during.......VEG and Bloom.
Was a sceptic........but would not go back.

I first tried this because of a book I have.

Hydroponics- by Jeffery Winterbourne

Expensive book- some $100 US approx i paid for it.............best investment I have made.
 

Trunk5

Well-Known Member
i know it is best to run both at the same time. i was just wondering if you put the mh bulb in once a week in the middle of the week would the one day of blue light help the tricome production durring flower? i dont want you guys yelling at each other over what light is better and so on. my next investment is the hortilux super hps as it has a little more accent in the blue spec then most hps lights.
 

MRsteverson

Well-Known Member
i have a 400 watt metal halide hortilux BLue mh bulb.. it says its designed to handle full growth cycle with added reds to the mh... the bulb was 100 bucks... anyone familiar with this?? i know for a fact my friend used this exact bulb ballast to grow dank nugs comparable if not superceeding the growth of the 400 w hps... i am assuming my lumatek electronic ballast helps as well... any thoughts???????
 

MRsteverson

Well-Known Member
i know it is best to run both at the same time. i was just wondering if you put the mh bulb in once a week in the middle of the week would the one day of blue light help the tricome production durring flower? i dont want you guys yelling at each other over what light is better and so on. my next investment is the hortilux super hps as it has a little more accent in the blue spec then most hps lights.
a easier way is to get like 10 27 watt cfl 2700k daylight bulbs... that will give u 270 watt of cfl ontop of your current wattage... boils down to about 18,000 lumens.. and keeping those ten cfls close will make for beastly trichome production... i tested hps vrs cfl and found that cfl produces more crystals.. added with hps u get crystals and weight.. not that cfls dont produce weight, just less efficient at high wattage
 

MRsteverson

Well-Known Member
I have no idea wht yiu are g bring Lumens into the conversation oftther than my bringing up th a 7500The charts K halide bulb. I was off on that anyway as it is the Iwaki 6500K that provides the better lighting. While yed s it does waste some light by providing more than need proportionally in the 500 to 550 range, overall it provides lighting fitting the response cure better than the other halides or the HPS. The response curve chart reflects the needs rfor amonyts of lightneeded in the different wave lengths by plants. The response curve chart reference a plants positive response in those wavelengths. It references how plants responds to lights in specific ranges required for growth. The halide shown even shows the halide dips in the small area where the response curve dips. Saying light output is a waste in that rae is ludicrous as it is a small dip in that area is ludicrous as it is not a drop to zero. Most LED systems are almost totally lacking in out put in that area. ie deficient. I have no idea what you are even trying to say in your last sentence as HPS puts out very little light in the 450 nm range so saying it absorbs most is a bit off as it should absorb more and be begging for more. HPS is deficient between 400 and 550 nm period. I have no idea why your talking lumens or CRI. The charts clearly show that halide in general covers the needs of plants over the full response curve better than the HPS. HPS provides a bit more light in the 550 to 650 nm range than the ahlide but is deficient in comaparison to the halide from 400 to 550 nm.

While yes if LED's were developed that supplied enough intensity the would be good plant lights that is not yet the case. Unless they are used for short grows like fast SOG grows from clones they really do not have much value. Even then it takes very expensive high output LED's to even provide enough lighting for SOG's, yet alone something like 18" plants. Forget about 24" or more.

I'll stick with mixed halide and HPS or primarily halide with HPS supplementation.
u seem to know alot about halides... do u know anything about the hortilux super blue metal halide??? i got two of them from a friend... is this a good bulb?
 
i have a 400 watt metal halide hortilux BLue mh bulb.. it says its designed to handle full growth cycle with added reds to the mh... the bulb was 100 bucks... anyone familiar with this?? i know for a fact my friend used this exact bulb ballast to grow dank nugs comparable if not superceeding the growth of the 400 w hps... i am assuming my lumatek electronic ballast helps as well... any thoughts???????
yes i used to use that same bulb and it was good but when i switched to the hortilux super hps my buds and yeild got way better. dank ass super hard dense buds are grown under hps. mh buds are more fluffy. that is what i have seen, smoked and experienced.:joint:
 

Huh??

Well-Known Member
i know it is best to run both at the same time. i was just wondering if you put the mh bulb in once a week in the middle of the week would the one day of blue light help the tricome production durring flower? i dont want you guys yelling at each other over what light is better and so on. my next investment is the hortilux super hps as it has a little more accent in the blue spec then most hps lights.
That bulb cost $200+ at the hydro store by me,at least the 1000w one does.
But I'm sure it's awesome.
 

fatman7574

New Member
Check out the Iwasaki 6500 output curve http://www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/articles/MetalHalideLamps2.htm and picture it combined ewith the standard HPS output and plug that into the response curve chart from the Foothills link. http://www.foothillhydroponics.com/brochure/colorhid.htm Pretty hard to beat. A adjsuted Hortilux HPD and no singkle HPS comapares with a Iwasaki combined with a standard HPS. And no other halide compares with the 6500K Iwasaki.

There are many Hlide spin offs of the Iwasaki bulb. There are some neraly identical in spectral ouput as the Iwasaki for $25 for the 250 wattt or 40 watt bulb. I don't know if they make a 1000 watt as I do not use 1000 watt bulbs. My Apogee Quantum Meter gives nearly identical readings for the cheap bulb versus the high dollar Iwasaki ($70 and up). http://cgi.ebay.com/250W-250-watt-6500K-Metal-Halide-GROW-Hydroponics-Bulb_W0QQitemZ290382904374QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439c2b7c36 http://cgi.ebay.com/400W-400-watt-6500K-Metal-Halide-GROW-Hydroponics-Bulb_W0QQitemZ350203924206QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5189c7ceee The Hortilux adjkusted HPS is still very lacking in the 400 to 550 nm range. It is better than the common HPS, just not a lot better. Better enough to show obviousimprovements in yield and plant vigor over the stab ndard bulb. Given a choice though I would use a combination of a 6500K hailde and a standard HPS. My seconf choice would be a 6500K light. My seconf choice the adjsued hortilux HPS, followed by just the 6500K halide. My last choice would be a standard HPS. I really doubt that the Hortilux metal halide is any better than the Iwasaki 6500K or its knock off 6500K's. It might be worses as it might be in the 10000K range and therefore to high in the actinic blue out put range. A good alterantive choice is y to just use the chepa lage standard HPS light and use supplemental side lighting in the blue actinic 420 to 460 nm range using compact flourescent actinic blue bulbs. http://www.marinedepot.com/96W_420nm_460nm_Actinic_Power_Compact_Square_Pin_Blue_Life_USA_SPS_96_Watt_Square_Pin_Power_Compact_Light_Bulbs-PowerCompact-PC1961-FILTBUPCSQNW-PC1998-vi.html
 

bigwheel

Well-Known Member
I've had fairly good luck using a 400 HPS coupled with a few daylight spectrum curly tail CFL's placed at strategic locations. This be for the flowering phase. Believe it does better than the HPS alone. For veg I use all CFL's which seems to work just fine.
 

fatman7574

New Member
Most CFC daylight are rated as 6500 to 6700K. So that makes perfect sense. A liitle harder to remove the heat fron CFC twist bulbs as you have both the heat from the bulb and the ballasts in the grow area. Considering how cheap they are though the added efforts is usually worth it over long tube compact flourescents. I have seen many air cooled tubes made for cfc's. Two bulbs to the tube. Plus with just HEI lighting the source of the heat is just a smaller area so it is easy to remove with cooling tubes etc. as one HEI bulb can be equal to up to 35 small twist CFC's. All lighting types and bulb types have disadvantages and advantages.
 

Bigol'Bong

Well-Known Member
i believe that u can buy a mulb w3ith both red and blue spectrum, i think they are called Conversion bulbs
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
just stick with the HPS for flower that spectrum of lighting will get you dank thick buds, you do not want airy weed. tri's are affected mostly by the nutrients that you use. if you were to switch back and forth every week you would stress the plant and could stunt the bud production a lot. the name of the game is to keep thing as constant as you can. doing too much will actually hurt the plants. GL m8 you will benefit way more by just using HPS for flower.
Do you grow?

I have used HPS from start to finish and had excellent results. You do NOT need to switch out anything. Buy the most efficient HID and stick with it.

I don't know what paradigm is more full of shit, the pH fixation or the HID color spectrum. Both MH and HPS contain both red and blue spectrums sufficient for excellent plant health. Use either or both, doesn't matter to the plant....they can't read.

UB
 

Huh??

Well-Known Member
When you look at a cmh bulb having a cri of 92 and a hps gives 20 its clear to see that a 600w hps isn't as near efficient as you first believed.
And an incandescent has a CRI of about 100,that means they're five times more efficient than a HPS?
After reading this thread I've decided to just switch to incandescent lights for veg and flower.
 
I use Hortilux Eye and Agrosun HPS bulbs,they work great.
I use a 1000 agrosun red sodium on a six foot mover...and ive been messing with a Xtra-SUN MONDO reflector. with hortilux eye 400w blue halide..this reflector is killer for supp lighting..its huge.. the spectrum of the horti is full balenced and most like the natural sunlight....i tilt the mondo reflect at a 45 with the horti blue and drop it low shining it slightly over the top my smaller adolescents and through the lower canopy of the bigger girls on a three part perpetual situation all in the flower room....pound plus every two weeks..love the hortilux..wanta try the super hps horti when i change the agrosun in a few weeks ...good ass lamps, and the mix of lamps makes em nice and sticky fat and stinky...im stoked
 
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