GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
I use neem but can't on the flowers. Spinosad/BT impossible to find over here.
Switching from HPS to LED mid-flower?
- Thread starter GrOwThMoNgeR
- Start date
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
Are you sure it's thrip damage?
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
What is the EC, and your feed schedule? LED lighting doesn't typically burn unless the plants are touching the LEDs, they will more likely bleach the tips.
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
1st day flower 22 Dec. EC was 1400 but crept up to 2200 overnight. PH went from 6.1 to 6.7. The water is 7ph 600ppm already out of the tap and 410 out of the water filter. Very hard even with hard water Canna A+B to get the pH to even 6.1 because the ec goes up. Even with ph down. Idk what to do. New nutes?
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
Get a RO filter.
You mentioned EC and ppm in the same statement. Which are you measuring, EC or ppm?
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
They are similar but it's an EC/TDS meter. Just push a button but here I'm referring to .6400 and .4100.
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
IF you want to increase trichome why wouldn't you just lower your temps and or incorporate Metal Halide bulbs in the fixtures? Unless you spend a lot of money on quality LED you will most certainly lose yield. Another thing, there are different strains that will produce more trichomes or "frost" regardless of lighting.
Environment will always be important but for example I can put my Gorilla Breath in my 1000W DE HPS flowering room whereas before it was under a 300 watt Mars-Hydro Amazon LED and the resin production is the same, the real key to not having "greasy" buds and having more sticky frosty buds is keeping the temperatures low and not literally cooking your resin off. Anything above 80-85 F will start to cause terpenes and other oils to vaporize off.
In short: Switching from HPS lighting to LED lighting will not improve your quality, having good genetics and environment is what will affect your quality, also making sure you have proper lighting to begin with.
Environment will always be important but for example I can put my Gorilla Breath in my 1000W DE HPS flowering room whereas before it was under a 300 watt Mars-Hydro Amazon LED and the resin production is the same, the real key to not having "greasy" buds and having more sticky frosty buds is keeping the temperatures low and not literally cooking your resin off. Anything above 80-85 F will start to cause terpenes and other oils to vaporize off.
In short: Switching from HPS lighting to LED lighting will not improve your quality, having good genetics and environment is what will affect your quality, also making sure you have proper lighting to begin with.
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
.6400 and .4100 on which scale, ppm or EC? How does that resolve to "EC was 1400 but crept up to 2200 overnight"?
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
Funny they super overcharge for those.
Yes ec was 1.4 and crept up to 2.2.
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
A lot of growers here use these same leds. I was aiming to lower temperatures which I did, but you didn't read the thread. My temps hover between 73 and 79 in led tent and 78-81 in the hps tent. I'm in a perfect spot for vpd and on the tent I schwazzed it has recovered completely and doing the stretch atm.
Honestly I don't understand your point at all. I'm not trying to I crease anything except keep values right. If you really care about helping you can tell me how to fix my dwc. I haven't done DWC for cannabis in years but I grow my own veggies and in veg had zero problems. Now in flower I believe I am getting K lockout from PH swings which can be seen on the leaves. IF someone would help, I'm trying to lower my PH. PJ suggested an RO filter (very sound advice because in previous grows I used distilled water as it was cheap) where I live it's not. Like I said I raised the lights to the top of the tent and Only got pH down to 6.4 so today I should find a filter or distilled water so my ec will drop and the nutes will lower my PH.
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
I need to stay off the radar here. In other places I've lived I've always used 600w hps + 600w mh and got the highest quality of all my grows. I am trying out led for power savings but hoping to get similar results, though not expecting potency to be as high.
My last grow I used a mars hydro ts1000 led and 400w hps which worked well now is 2x240w. You speaking of led quality...there are more than 500 leds of which like 490 are 301b's which are the same no matter the light. Cheap or not it's par we look for.
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
5L of distilled water was 60 krona but I got my pH to 5.5 
Was a K lockout so recovering.
Looking pretty "schwazzy"
The schwazzed needed some water after 4 days but looking great Not freaked out at all anymore haha.
Kushash
Well-Known Member
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
After awhile, you'll be able to hear them.
Jahfarmer95
Active Member
Burnnnnnnn
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
PH has been steady 5.9 and ec 1.2 so been really happy after buying 125L of distilled water for about 80 Krona 
and the plant is recovering and bulking. Just been seeing a little thrip damage so not too worried as they aren't so bad to turn the leaves colors like in another smaller tent 
.
So I've finally had to start tying branches to maximize light penetration and prevent them from floppy donging.
The schwazzy tent has recovered really well despite the attack by mold mites while they were weak from schwazzing. In retrospect, to avoid stressing them so much would also prevent attacks while weakened as bugs like weak plants. I am hoping for a decent harvest despite the problems.
That is today and here is what it looked like before on the 19th of Jan:
and here is what it looked like 4 days after schwazz under heavy attack:
Have a great weekend and will update soon!
and the plant is recovering and bulking. Just been seeing a little thrip damage so not too worried as they aren't so bad to turn the leaves colors like in another smaller tent . So I've finally had to start tying branches to maximize light penetration and prevent them from floppy donging.
The schwazzy tent has recovered really well despite the attack by mold mites while they were weak from schwazzing. In retrospect, to avoid stressing them so much would also prevent attacks while weakened as bugs like weak plants. I am hoping for a decent harvest despite the problems.
That is today and here is what it looked like before on the 19th of Jan:and here is what it looked like 4 days after schwazz under heavy attack:
Have a great weekend and will update soon!
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
Glad things are looking up for you
Plants respond super well to shwazzing if they are healthy, no bugs, and a good nutrient. Bummer your girls got attacked when they did
Plants respond super well to shwazzing if they are healthy, no bugs, and a good nutrient. Bummer your girls got attacked when they did
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
How far into flower are your girls?
GrOwThMoNgeR
Well-Known Member
Sorry, meant 800 krona haha, too many images, hmm page loading slower so will have to put thumbnails so I can actually edit without lagging out haha.