Switching my socket CFL'S for LED grow Bulbs.

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az2000

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Where are you seeing 100w bright stiks? I can't find em online to buy
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Sam's Club. They just hit the market in the past few weeks I think (I saw it in a cNet article). They're $5 each to members. If you're not a member, you can get a pass to purchase them at $8 each.

The specs on the box sound much better (95 L/w). They're using better diodes I guess. With the cap off, this should scream. The 10w (60w equiv) is only 76 L/w on the box. But, you've seen how the design makes it so good compared to the Cree 9.5w A19 (which is about 88 L/w with the rubber protective coating removed). If removing the cap from the 16w (100w equiv) BrightStik will result in a similar gain, that's going to be like 120 L/w (by comparison).

I'll cut mine open and see if they are indeed forward-facing like the 10w GE. It's possible the design is different, maybe a circular positioning of the diodes like that Cree goudenough posted a picture of. If it's flat, that's gonna be a winner for top-lighting in a 3-4' tall space.
 
superbak3d

superbak3d

Well-Known Member
CFLs are the best for supplemental lighting vs any of those LED bulbs.

CFL emits UVB and LEDs barely emit UVB at all.

A lot of LED people overlook this and wonder why they don't get the super frosty buds like HPS and CFL does. Simple, lack of UVB.
 
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az2000

Well-Known Member
superbak3d said:
A lot of LED people overlook this and wonder why they don't get the super frosty buds like HPS and CFL does. Simple, lack of UVB.
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I got the following from LED. It's not the frostiest I've had. But, it's not like dry paper either.

led.jpg

I'm growing one right now entirely under Cree household lightbulbs. I'm running an inexpensive UVB 10 reptile bulb (the short one, like a 16w?) two hours during lights on. I'll cut it back to 1 hour by mid flower, then nothing by late flower. I'm curious to see how it looks.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Superbak3d, I'll be using 4/4 LED/Spiral CFL in my homemade hoods. I think it's going to perform very well.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
az2000 said:
Sam's Club. They just hit the market in the past few weeks I think (I saw it in a cNet article). They're $5 each to members. If you're not a member, you can get a pass to purchase them at $8 each.

The specs on the box sound much better (95 L/w). They're using better diodes I guess. With the cap off, this should scream. The 10w (60w equiv) is only 76 L/w on the box. But, you've seen how the design makes it so good compared to the Cree 9.5w A19 (which is about 88 L/w with the rubber protective coating removed). If removing the cap from the 16w (100w equiv) BrightStik will result in a similar gain, that's going to be like 120 L/w (by comparison).

I'll cut mine open and see if they are indeed forward-facing like the 10w GE. It's possible the design is different, maybe a circular positioning of the diodes like that Cree goudenough posted a picture of. If it's flat, that's gonna be a winner for top-lighting in a 3-4' tall space.
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So I bought 4 100W and 6 60w Bright Sticks from Sams club.com. they'll be here and ready on thursday. When I take the diffuser off, you were saying I need to cover the electrodes or whatever to eliminate shock potential? So are you saying I need to in-case with clear silicone, hot glue, or electrical tape that little metal square in the center of them all? Covering all the pos/negative points that are exposed metal? I'm not going to touch the bulbs ever once they're in my hood. So is it necessary even?
 

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az2000

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
you were saying I need to cover the electrodes or whatever to eliminate shock potential?
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I don't think it's possible to do. A GFCI outlet would be easier and, ultimately, safer. You can either replace a wall outlet with one. Or, make a general-purpose extension cord with a GFCI outlet on the end. (Just some 3-conductor wire; a 3-prong male plug attached to one end; a junction box attached to the other end, with a duplex cover plate and GFCI outlet contained therein.).

That will detect a short/electrocution condition and break the connection.

Having the GE BrightStiks recessed in reflectors would help prevent accidental contact too (much better than a Cree A19/21 in a reflector. They have that tall tower protrusion which begs for accidental contact.).
 
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