I have about 7 gallons of GH nutes left and half of my reservoirs use GH with protekt. While Protekt is a great product, it doesn't do anything to directly influence yields. It's a great pH stabilizer because of it's higher pH and it adds a level of resistance to spider mites. It also helps grow studier plants, but in regards to yields, it did nothing for my GH-grown plants.Homebrewer, your grow is looking amazing. I've got a couple nute questions for you.
Have you tried your old GH nute line-up with the addition of silica? I've got a feeling the silica is the main factor in your bigger yields since switching to dyna-grow.
I have compared the two and Sweet is a better product. I've found floranectar to be unstable as I had 1/2 a bottle ferment on me and sweet has a better mineral content that plants can actually use. I don't use carb products for their carbs as plants already make their own sugars and have a limited ability to pull them up from the medium. I'm using sweet this round to feed the microbes but sweet also supplies a good dose of magnesium and sulfur.Have you compared flora nectar to the sweet that you currently use? Are you convinced that the carbs help your plants, even before you started adding the bacteria. I have not found any info about plants using the carbs.
Different products all together. In regards to enzymes, people should concentrate on mastering the basics of complete plant nutrition and maintaining healthy plants until harvest day. Only then should someone look into the extra rip-off additives that are out there. I've used a lot of rip-off products throughout the years and none of them have made as much of a difference as feeding plants with ideal NPK ratios and maintaining healthy feeding levels.What do you think about enzymes? do they get the same results as bacteria? could be another test for you to run.
Normally I fill my tubs up with 15-17 gallons of water and top off with fresh water each day. Naturally as my plants feed throughout the week, the ppm drops and adding fresh water further dilutes the res. A larger res creates 'head space' issues given my flower room so I'm kinda stuck with my lower profile 15 gallon concrete mixing tub reservoirs.IcannabisHey Homebrewer,
You ever think of getting a couple of those 27 gallon rough neck totes they sell at Lowes? I read you were thinking of trying a larger Reservoir. I put 20 gallons in mine not a worry in the world there build tough. Good looking plants +rep!!!
Thanks for the link, i'll keep those in mind since at least one of those looks like it could work with my height restrictions.Hey Homebrewer. I use a Rubbermaid stock feeding tank for a res. They come in 50, 70, 100 and 300 gallon sizes and they are 25" high; they just have a bigger footprint rather than being deeper. They are cheeeeep, too, but not as cheap as your mixing tubs. This link is not for price but for example. You can buy them way cheaper at an agricultural supply center. They also can come with a drain valve and a top-off float valve.
http://www.rubbermaidforless.com/agriculture-stock-tanks-category-15_18.html
I don't think I've ever had anything on my medium that has caused any issues with or without the bennies.The buds are coming along nicely man, I was wondering, have you encountered any kind of biofilm on your media?
What's a biofilm?The buds are coming along nicely man, I was wondering, have you encountered any kind of biofilm on your media?
I was wondering because I read something on adding bennies to hydro, and it said that any harsh chemicals will kill most of them off, yet some bacteria survive, and can form a biofilm. This could have been specific to dwc now that I think of it, but really, I can't remember much of what I read so I figured I should maybe ask you... it also could have been total bs because I read it on a thread here, but either way...I don't think I've ever had anything on my medium that has caused any issues with or without the bennies.
There isn't much I can tell you that google can'tWhat's a biofilm?
They get flooded with about 2 inches of water 3 times for 15 minutes each time during each light cycle.I just glanced over several of your threads and I didn't see whether or not you stated how high your were flooding your concrete mixing trays. I was thinking that running the water up to about the .25" mark of the 6x6 cube for 1-2 minutes would allow the rockwool to soak up everything it needs. What are you doing as far as flood level, frequency, and duration?
I use the 7-9-5 grow formula because when mixed in different ratios with their bloom, it's prefect for the different stages of flower. 3-1-2 is possibly 'ideal' for veg but the vegetative stage is cake and can be done with a 1-1-1 ratio.Also, Are you running the DynaGro Foliage Pro or the DynaGrow Grow? Which do you think is ideal for a MJ plant in the vegetative state? I only ask because out of the 6+ hours of reading the posts of Fatman and Uncle Ben arguing back and forth in several threads, about the only thing that either of them agreed upon was that the 3-1-2 NPK ratio of DynaGro Foliage Pro was probably the best suited veg formula for the MJ plant and about the only thing on the market that provides that NPK as well as the other 12 essential nutrients our plants need. Thoughts?
What color spectrum in veg are you going with? I always thought the 6500k was the norm...They get flooded with about 2 inches of water 3 times for 15 minutes each time during each light cycle.
I use the 7-9-5 grow formula because when mixed in different ratios with their bloom, it's prefect for the different stages of flower. 3-1-2 is possibly 'ideal' for veg but the vegetative stage is cake and can be done with a 1-1-1 ratio.
When it comes to yield and quality, the ideal flowering NPKs and complete plant nutrition are what people should be arguing about. I think color spectrum of the bulbs in veg is much more important than specific NPK ratios. Again, 1-1-1 works fine for veg, no need to get too scientific about it, imo.
I use a few 4000k mh bulbs from my local hardware store. One of these days I'm going to test some bluer halides but 4000k work just fine.What color spectrum in veg are you going with? I always thought the 6500k was the norm...