The Dons' Organic Garden

I was told by an old friend that it was the first signs of Calcium/Magnesium Deficiency. Now what I have done is add cal/mag for 1 week or two and if if doesn't clear up its strain related. I would also agree that environment stress's would contribute to that as well. Both of you are spot on with every facet of your grow and wouldn't think its a deficiency or environmentally related. Thanks for your thoughts.

Grundle
 
MyLittleGrundle said:
I was told by an old friend that it was the first signs of Calcium/Magnesium Deficiency. Now what I have done is add cal/mag for 1 week or two and if if doesn't clear up its strain related. I would also agree that environment stress's would contribute to that as well. Both of you are spot on with every facet of your grow and wouldn't think its a deficiency or environmentally related. Thanks for your thoughts.

Grundle
Click to expand...
Yea cooler temps can lead to this as well.
 
Yeah
We got chocolate and other strains straight green still.
like super green

Think it was the cooler air that one night

Um. Was gonna veg til valentines day but..
Getting BEAStLY wide!
Took a couple plants somewhere else and now even these ones are touching each other again..
Height wise ..
..About 20 inches above soil line on average right now

Was gonna shoot for 28" before flipping ..
 
2 lettuces in one pot with a plant keeping me loaded with fresh never sprayed organics..premium clean organic feels so alive and fleshy and tacky moist almost like fresh out of the shower.. Mmimage.jpgJust harvested 85% about 6 days ago and here we go again..
 
DonPetro said:
You should try kale too. Trailblazer!
Click to expand...
Sold! Def getting some blue kale..
Got a list of about 30 seeds we gonna get, all different veggies/ fruits and herbs

Can hardly wait for strawberries above all
******************************************************
A note about the lights...

Comparing
4000k vs 3500k (vero) vs china with far and deep reds

Looks like the 4000k Veros, are pumping out the darkest healthiest leaves..little less bushy, maybe, but super healthy, super deep green, super sheeny leaves.. and a little bitmore of them..
Wicked photosynthesis going on..
Beautiful Metallic paint almost type of sheen on several..almost like crystals inside the leaves..

(A buddy even thought he was looking at a fake plant..haha
Jus Had one out for a topdressing )

3500k is putting metabolisms to the test a tiny bit more it seems..
Seems, little bit less efficient at sheer photosynthesis, or maybe overbearing just a tad, but due to the warmth/extra reds/demand, they are pumping out the huge thick stems and taking the sizes up, well, shit, fattest leaves i ever seen, especially in such a short time frame, they're insane..
This is becoming my preferred light for creating size, both width/girth, and height but to keep them dark I like to rotate em under the 4000k

The china LED with its Infrareds and far reds and deep reds, seems to help lateral branching and overall metamorphosis .. I think the 660nm range impacts the morphological changes the most..

Maybe why my untrained SLch is so bushy and round and its barely been touched.. jus topped once real cleanly, cant even tell very easily at all where it was topped..hasnt been under full light either bro.. 70-80% of the light-time the other ones been getting cause the china is first to turn off if

Of course genetics and phenos and soils and temps are to be considered, as well as the stages, this is just mid and late veg.. But interesting to see the pros and cons of each spectrum..

I wonder what the violets and greens and different blues and reds do..

Just saw a video breaking down spectrums from different companies and different DIY builds, and if ...
 
DonTesla said:
Sold! Def getting some blue kale..
Got a list of about 30 seeds we gonna get, all different veggies/ fruits and herbs

Can hardly wait for strawberries above all
******************************************************
A note about the lights...

Comparing
4000k vs 3500k (vero) vs china with far and deep reds

Looks like the 4000k Veros, are pumping out the darkest healthiest leaves..little less bushy, maybe, but super healthy, super deep green, super sheeny leaves.. and a little bitmore of them..
Wicked photosynthesis going on..
Beautiful Metallic paint almost type of sheen on several..almost like crystals inside the leaves..

(A buddy even thought he was looking at a fake plant..haha
Jus Had one out for a topdressing )

3500k is putting metabolisms to the test a tiny bit more it seems..
Seems, little bit less efficient at sheer photosynthesis, or maybe overbearing just a tad, but due to the warmth/extra reds/demand, they are pumping out the huge thick stems and taking the sizes up, well, shit, fattest leaves i ever seen, especially in such a short time frame, they're insane..
This is becoming my preferred light for creating size, both width/girth, and height but to keep them dark I like to rotate em under the 4000k

The china LED with its Infrareds and far reds and deep reds, seems to help lateral branching and overall metamorphosis .. I think the 660nm range impacts the morphological changes the most..

Maybe why my untrained SLch is so bushy and round and its barely been touched.. jus topped once real cleanly, cant even tell very easily at all where it was topped..hasnt been under full light either bro.. 70-80% of the light-time the other ones been getting cause the china is first to turn off if

Of course genetics and phenos and soils and temps are to be considered, as well as the stages, this is just mid and late veg.. But interesting to see the pros and cons of each spectrum..

I wonder what the violets and greens and different blues and reds do..

Just saw a video breaking down spectrums from different companies and different DIY builds, and if ...
Click to expand...
I would say 4000k 80cri HP LED is my favorite light. Cant really go wrong with that spectrum. Can we get another comparison...say, mid-flower, @DonTesla ? That would be cool. Thanks.
 
DonPetro said:
I would say 4000k 80cri HP LED is my favorite light. Cant really go wrong with that spectrum. Can we get another comparison...say, mid-flower, @DonTesla ? That would be cool. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Np, Dp
Not at all

and yeah, 80cri wins over 90cri, hey, despite the suns value of "100"

The 4000k sure is the veg friendly go to light and what the plants want after week 2.. The question is, exactly, as you are inferring, what's the difference during flower

* how will the leaves respond
* how will the flowers
*and trichs respond*

Note to self.
Might need keep journal for at least one plant of each strain
to help learn more, faster, about lights soils waterings etc
 
Last edited:
SLch Update!

image.jpg
The woman's very impressive 2nd gen SuperLemonChernobyl, in just 7 gallons of organic soil. She's almost 3 feet wide and only 20 inches above soil line. She was really pinned down so her sub-mains could rise above and join the race. Now she has branches shooting from the soil thicker than pencils. Really fun to watch this one. She may have some serious potential. She already REAKS like pungent cheese and skunks hash.. It's f-ckin nuts
 
DonTesla said:
SLch Update!

View attachment 3599888
The woman's very impressive 2nd gen SuperLemonChernobyl, in just 7 gallons of organic soil. She's almost 3 feet wide and only 20 inches above soil line. She was really pinned down so her sub-mains could rise above and join the race. Now she has branches shooting from the soil thicker than pencils. Really fun to watch this one. She may have some serious potential. She already REAKS like pungent cheese and skunks hash.. It's f-ckin nuts
Click to expand...
Gonna be a beast come harvest. Did you end up with a BF clone too?
 
DonPetro said:
Gonna be a beast come harvest. Did you end up with a BF clone too?
Click to expand...
A real beauty on our hands here.

Yes mon
I have BlackForrest clones, 3rd generation, with roots fatter then I have ever seen in this cloner.. Wow. They are thick n CHunnnky bruh, neo style
Must be 40 times thicker than the pink roots we had. My WoRD!


Plus I have a big black forrest at a buddies, also male.. 2nd gen.
In 7 gallons.

Totally separate location from my prized females here enjoying the flip thus far..
I like it. Real clean set up here. Just need my other light. Got a 7 gallon beast under NO LIGHT!!!!
 
StangStudFarm asked a good question, I think the answer be good to post here too:

"So, a no-till would be better suited for a fungal growth and recycling soil in a bin would be better for bacterial growth? I know, I still have some reading to do!"


Long Answer:
Well Stang!
*Both LOVE the plant and its root exudates..
*Both develop symbiotic relationships..
*They even both eat carbs and sugars.
*They both are big recyclers ..

Overall tho, yes, the bacteria prefer simple carbs, "green" foods and the fungus more "brown" foods, the complex carbs and tougher dinner items (stale bun, anyone?)

As for your question, 'Stang..
I would think the no till provides larger "stadiums" for the bacteria to survive too.

for example, if you don't sustain fungal growth by adding fungal foods I'd say bacteria could easily dominate..especially if you "scratch/work" the surface.

(Your choice of aeration can impact this lots then, rice is 1 example)

Remember darkness is one of the fungi's favorite things too, easier for them to establish in beginning then to survive up top during the end. So better to create the fungi, and work it in, cause bacteria will end up dominating the topsoil more easily.

Of course, There are two mains types of fungi we love.
There is regular mycelium easily to grow with any fungal food, then there is the special genera know as myco fungi.

Myco fungi is known to increase yields up to 35% in tomatoes, a similar crop to ours.
They tap into roots, take about 5% water/juice (root exudate, their fav) in exchange for up ~45% more nutrients and water, a killer trade off!
-they're also known to increase root mass by 7-10x according to these books, that's 1000%, amazingly.

So that's some basic foodweb101 bruv..
Fungi greatly help water and nutrient-reach and are needed for all the rocks, bones and minerals..
(Monkeys right, No one wants phosphorus locked up during flower)
They also help soil structure, and therefore help not just reach for water, but retention of it, and the inherent nutrients too.

Whereas bacteria, the porn stars of the soil food web who can have up to 500, 000 offspring in just 12 hours, are "CRUCIAL" recyclers for Co2, sulphur, and carbon, and they can even (amazingly) "employ" enzymes to do work for them (break this down for us, that chain too long, we hungry, bruh)

In fact most must eat carbon ( or sulphur) to sustain themselves (no wonder chelated cats get salt lock up, they wiped out their salt eating friends on day 1). Then, Anything they eat is mineralized and bio available when they die, unless eaten by a bigger beast, of course.
And the cycle continues..

Short Answer:
Sorta maybe, but not really, dawg..
..what it basically boils down to, is that nitrogen recycling, sulphur recycling, as well as the carbon cycle, (fresh co2, anyone?) are normally taught as chemical processes, but they are all, actually, biological. For example, a byproduct of bacteria processes is fresh CO2 and therefore can have praying leaves all the time almost, without a co2 tank)

The heroes behind the scenes are the bacteria, (their enzymes), and fungi, every time.

So both are crucial, and both could dominate a no till, its more so up to us to create the environment (soil, temps, darkness vs light, foods, etc) where they can both thrive an a balanced, harmonious way.
 
Last edited:
DonTesla said:
if you don't sustain fungal growth by adding fungal foods I'd say bacteria could easily dominate..especially if you "scratch/work" the surface.
Click to expand...
What kinds of food would Myco like? I worked with cubensis and they are grass/dung decomposers, so you feed them manure. I dont understand what myco likes, so I dont know how to feed them? Thanks for putting in so much effort to explain this to me!
 
MustangStudFarm said:
What kinds of food would Myco like? I worked with cubensis and they are grass/dung decomposers, so you feed them manure. I dont understand what myco likes, so I dont know how to feed them? Thanks for putting in so much effort to explain this to me!
Click to expand...
Their favorite thing is root exudates!
So healthy roots and a nicely aerated soil that avoids compaction would be good
 
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