The far red thread

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Hey Mark, @cutter welight
I know you can do kits any chance that you could put together a far red kit with these solderless 3 led Far Red pcb's ?
a kit as in a suitable driver/drivers that would run a 'X' amount of far reds that we could scale up or down ?
the far reds we use at the end of flower for a short period 15 minutes at the end of a day cycle .
dbbl post on the 1500w thread of Supra's
 
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Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Yeah Bobby_G It seems to me those ebay led cobs are priced near what the Cree do
& at least I can ask Mark how true to this & that spec his stuff actually is
they (Ebay) are kinda unknow & from some threads here not worth what they claim
I'm just not set-up to be a Test Bunny ; funding does not allow 4 unknowns
I am thinking of getting a few 10 watters to use as replacements for my 6 outdoor white 10 watt waterproof fixtures that go unsed for the summer G/H gro
but I think the Cree might work there as well
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Thought I would chime in again. I've been using 730 nm as a phytochrome trigger for years. As the info on this has passed from one person to another it's varied from my original use. When I started using it the availability of 730 nm was limited and the quality was not near what it is now. My first lights were 10 watt floods and were recommended to run for 5 minutes after lights out and would cover a 8' x 8' area,that's 64 sq/ft and I was told that those were conservative numbers. My reason for trying them in the beginning was for increased yield by increasing my light schedule,I also found another benefit after using them was shortened flower time. I'm sure these original 730's were far less efficient than some of the quality ones available now. My point is that a little goes a long way,the old ones were capable of covering a square foot with only 15 hundredths of a watt. So when I see some of the info passed now I thought I would chime in.
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Thought I would chime in again. I've been using 730 nm as a phytochrome trigger for years. As the info on this has passed from one person to another it's varied from my original use. When I started using it the availability of 730 nm was limited and the quality was not near what it is now. My first lights were 10 watt floods and were recommended to run for 5 minutes after lights out and would cover a 8' x 8' area,that's 64 sq/ft and I was told that those were conservative numbers. My reason for trying them in the beginning was for increased yield by increasing my light schedule,I also found another benefit after using them was shortened flower time. I'm sure these original 730's were far less efficient than some of the quality ones available now. My point is that a little goes a long way,the old ones were capable of covering a square foot with only 15 hundredths of a watt. So when I see some of the info passed now I thought I would chime in.

funny most of the recent posters do not know how to read, or think its a waste of time. This thread has relatively recent recommendations for building far red flowering bars. distribution\coverage is more important than wattage.
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
I read the whole thread ,


i'm still digesting but am thinkin of the 3 led Cree pcb solderless is the direction i want to go
I just gotta figure out the best way for me to use them
I'd bet they'd run fine on Mars2 driver those push out 700ah (gotta go back watch Gromau vid on that )
heck , that would be just the $ for the Cree's
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
I read the whole thread ,
i'm still digesting but am thinkin of the 3 led Cree pcb solderless is the direction i want to go
I just gotta figure out the best way for me to use them
I'd bet they'd run fine on Mars2 driver those push out 700ah (gotta go back watch Gromau vid on that )
heck , that would be just the $ for the Cree's
ya must have missed this post http://rollitup.org/t/the-far-red-thread.867665/page-14#post-12153940

and ya must have missed this post http://rollitup.org/t/the-far-red-thread.867665/page-13#post-12089160

just get 3 or 4 of these http://www.rapidled12.com/cree-xp-e-far-red-led/
put them on a 3 or 4 foot aluminum channel or sumthing simple with an APC-12 or equivalent (like the mars driver)

Your mars 700ma driver might work, but the minimum Vf for the driver may be an issue depending on how many stars you deploy.
 
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Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
ya must have missed this post http://rollitup.org/t/the-far-red-thread.867665/page-14#post-12153940

and ya must have missed this post http://rollitup.org/t/the-far-red-thread.867665/page-13#post-12089160

just get 3 or 4 of these http://www.rapidled12.com/cree-xp-e-far-red-led/
put them on a 3 or 4 foot aluminum channel or sumthing simple with an APC-12 or equivalent (like the mars driver)

Your mars 700ma driver might work, but the minimum Vf for the driver may be an issue depending on how many stars you deploy.
no I didn't miss your posts , that's how I found the Cutter solderless PCB
you gotta a issue with me for some reason ??
 

welight

Well-Known Member
Hey Mark, @cutter welight
I know you can do kits any chance that you could put together a far red kit with these solderless 3 led Far Red pcb's ?
a kit as in a suitable driver/drivers that would run a 'X' amount of far reds that we could scale up or down ?
the far reds we use at the end of flower for a short period 15 minutes at the end of a day cycle .
dbbl post on the 1500w thread of Supra's
yes love to do that, let me know what configuration your interested in?
Cheers
Mark
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
For my 3.5x3.5x4.5 I should go with 9 xp far red and for the 4x4 maybe 12!
I was thinking less first but I would have to put them at 20in but I put my cob at 12/16in...so I will have to put those on the cob hs and lower mean less cover (but it will be only 10w more...)
CU
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
For my 3.5x3.5x4.5 I should go with 9 xp far red and for the 4x4 maybe 12!
I was thinking less first but I would have to put them at 20in but I put my cob at 12/16in...so I will have to put those on the cob hs and lower mean less cover (but it will be only 10w more...)
CU
So in other words, 3 of the 3 chip solder less ones? So you think 4 would be what a 4x4 needs?

https://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2203
Screenshot_2016-02-11-14-07-32.png
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
I use 1.9 watts of 730 XP-e over a 4x2....2x diodes @350mA ....more than enough...something like 650 mW over 8 sq. ft. I think they are near 30% efficient or a touch above @350mA....

I also run mainly 3K in flower, which usually has higher amounts of 700+ nm's, than higher K temps...

I have taken things down before 50 days with either 730nm or without...and I have also taken down things over 70 days with or without 730nm :peace:
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I use 1.9 watts of 730 XP-e over a 4x2....2x diodes @350mA ....more than enough...something like 650 mW over 8 sq. ft. I think they are near 30% efficient or a touch above @350mA....

I also run mainly 3K in flower, which usually has higher amounts of 700+ nm's, than higher K temps...

I have taken things down before 50 days with either 730nm or without...and I have also taken down things over 70 days with or without 730nm :peace:
What do you mean? Harvested at 50-70 days? And what's that help justify if it's with or without? Are they worth using? :P
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I use 1.9 watts of 730 XP-e over a 4x2....2x diodes @350mA ....more than enough...something like 650 mW over 8 sq. ft. I think they are near 30% efficient or a touch above @350mA....

I also run mainly 3K in flower, which usually has higher amounts of 700+ nm's, than higher K temps...

I have taken things down before 50 days with either 730nm or without...and I have also taken down things over 70 days with or without 730nm :peace:
And you're saying you only use 2 of those single xpe stars (not the tri pcb) for the whole 2x4? On what driver and how do you time them?
 
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