The flush "myth"

coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Said it before in another flush thread, I believe people flushed to allow the plant to feed from itself and reduce chlorophyll in the leaves which ment a lesser curing time. Almost all of us were illegal growers previously and those that did commercial grows did not want to spend the time to cure their harvests, it had to be dried and out of the door as soon as possible. Leeching out the chlorophyll creates a smoother taste, the harsher taste been wrongly tied to nutrients or salts in the plant.
So its a time saving exercise, or it was.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
This will not work properly!
If you have even one little bit of a feeling, one way or the other. That is how the "test" will go! Even if it's not the right answer!

It's called "confirmation bias" = google that and learn!



Read this and read the link at the bottom - if your still on the shelf.

Your looking for post grad work. You would do better to search papers......The thing is, NOTHING in agriculture gets 'flushed" and that leads to little to no research in the area. You see, the thing is, the whole "idea" of "flushing is nonsense! Plants don't work that way! They do not take up nutrients or salts as most of you think of them! They do not "store" them in the sense you think of them! Not only that, but the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers! NO amount of "flushing" will "exchange" plant "stored" nutrition back "out" of the plant! Scientifically impossible by the way most of you guys understand......Ok, that's my word on "flushing". (No one listens to this in threads if they don't want to hear it or accept it.)

Now then, you propose the "FADE TO FINISH" method. Great idea in theory but, and this IS a BIG BUT! Remember when I said above that "the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers!" ? This shoots that theory in the ass right away. You see the main amount of stored nutrition is in either the roots and the rest in leaves and some in small amounts in transit in the phloam (the sap that actually moves the nutrients around the plant)......

Now when you "starve a plant" it will draw from it's self by actually breaking down the needed parts of it's self to do an "emergency" attempt to reproduce! (This can happen in certain plants even in veg! A kind of last ditch effort to continue the species.)

With that in mind you take the fact that the plant is not "moving" nutrients "out" of buds,but into them to speed growth and as fast as it can - "reproduce". This single minded process the plant now puts it's self on causes the plant to stress it's self. This self induced stress can, in many cases if done long enough, lead the plant to go bisexual, and produce "banana's" in a last ditch effort to reproduce and "carry on the line" and produce seeds...

Basically put, In reality you are moving nutrients that you're "attempting" to get rid of,,right to where your trying to remove them from! You are also stressing the plant in the way for "Herming" to actually happen easier!

I and many others that have tried to convey this actual plant science, are called everything you can think of and those 'impossible of understanding these facts", fight so hard against us that many of us have simply chosen to avoid the issue or don't fight to hard.

Anyway, there you are in as short and sweet and as simple/understandable as I can...

The thing is you have to understand Botany and Horticulture (and there are LOTS of subsections to those that are involved here) to truly put together the pieces of the puzzle to get your head wrapped around the idea that flushing and the "fade" don't work for what they are intended or alleged to actually do!

There you go Mods, nice, polite and to the point. (Sorry about the other thread Sunni)

There you go, Now have at it!
I'm stepping back to watch the circus.

Read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/
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I don't know why people would fight against it because it will be saving a lot of unnecessary work. Moral of the story, admitting being wrong, easier said than done.

To coincidentally admit I was wrong with ought the intention of looking like a smart ass ;p.. I did think reducing nutes toward the end for a fade would have some merit. So it seems the only path is to reduce nutes in account for the lower demand near the end but not to the point of under feeding?.
 
Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Sorry but cow shit doesn't mix well in my res and tends to plug my filters, call me foolish lol.
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Why grow hydro when the results are inferior and cost more to produce? Seems foolish to me.
I understand it's a hell of a lot easier since you have someone basically do everything for you( they even PH your nutes now) but doing things the hard way pays off.
 
Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
I do both ;). I actually like the taste of my hydro, both taste great IMO. I grow my hydro in winter (works better for me) and organic compost outdoors. Ya it's expensive but 99% of the cost is my electricity :(.
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i grow hydro too but it never compares to my organic, i got a couple RDWC water farm systems(also done coco), tried just about every type of salt based nutrient out there, still nothing compares to my ROLS grown plants that cost less by a hell of a lot.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
i grow hydro too but it never compares to my organic, i got a couple RDWC water farm systems(also done coco), tried just about every type of salt based nutrient out there, still nothing compares to my ROLS grown plants that cost less by a hell of a lot.
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What is ROLS?
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
recycled organic living soil it gets better every run, my current batch is 3 years old.
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Oh ok, ya me too lol. My batch is probably 20 lol. I just keep throwing the stuff back in the pile and add to it each spring. No recipe, just a whole bunch of everything, I even throw a bit of cormorant poop in every couple of years :). My whole farm is certified organic for milk production.
 
Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Oh ok, ya me too lol. My batch is probably 20 lol. I just keep throwing the stuff back in the pile and add to it each spring. No recipe, just a whole bunch of everything, I even throw a bit of cormorant poop in every couple of years :). My whole farm is certified organic for milk production.
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the recipe is kinda important, mainly the most important thing is what you use as your base (peat or coco ) but besides from that yea anything that's organic and can decompose works great.

Take a look at this thread, lots of good recipes on there

https://www.rollitup.org/t/recycled-organic-living-soil-rols-and-no-till-thread.636057/page-403#post-13420596
 
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Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
the recipe is kinda important, mainly the most important thing is what you use as your base (peat or coco ) but besides from that yea anything that's organic and can decompose works great.

Take a look at this thread, lots of good recipes on there

https://www.rollitup.org/t/recycled-organic-living-soil-rols-and-no-till-thread.636057/page-403#post-13420596
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Ya I'll have a look but my throwing a bunch of stuff in a pile seems to be working well with what I've been doing for 45 years lol. Last year was a struggle though, worst drought in my memory :(, one cut of hay and it was shit.
 
J

just_me

Member
All I want to say on this, is a see for yourself test. If you walk on soaked ground you will notice two things as you walk, bubbles will come up and the soil will pack. Packed soil restricts drainage, and leaves little room for air.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
just_me said:
All I want to say on this, is a see for yourself test. If you walk on soaked ground you will notice two things as you walk, bubbles will come up and the soil will pack. Packed soil restricts drainage, and leaves little room for air.
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Not sure what your getting at really, but yup that's true, compacted soil is not conductive to good growth. That's why Yoda uses peat and or coco I would guess?
 
J

just_me

Member
Budley Doright said:
Not sure what your getting at really, but yup that's true, compacted soil is not conductive to good growth. That's why Yoda uses peat and or coco I would guess?
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I guess I`m trying to say that flushing will pack the soil in the pots, slowing capillary action. Other type growers need not worry about that. Most grow in soil though.

You`re right about Yoda.
 
tstick

tstick

Well-Known Member
For me, in my garden, I can't stress enough how important it is to use soil amendments that open up and lighten the soil and create a lot of airspace so that when you water, you can push a lot of water quickly through the soil and pull in that good oxygen through the roots. I love the chunky perlite...and even regular perlite helps. Whatever your soil blend happens to be -whatever guano and meals you have in there, you just gotta open it up for those roots to have lots and lots of space to breath and then push that water through the soil quick, fast and in a hurry so that the incoming water pulls that oxygen in behind it like a piston. I'm a believer in allowing the soil to dry out between waterings -not bone-dry, but dry...and then giving them a thorough watering.

I also am a new convert to Smart Pots just because they drain fast and allow more oxygen exchange.
 
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