bicit
Well-Known Member
Worthy mention. As with anything you should always understand the risks of the DIY approach.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/dealing-with-fan-failure.864460/
https://www.rollitup.org/t/dealing-with-fan-failure.864460/
the HLG-600H thread
- Thread starter BOBBY_G
- Start date
EfficientWatt
Well-Known Member
Hi bobby,
Never realized the *safe* side (for humans) of using those big CV drivers ...
Did you get an answer to your previous question (about 36V version VS 48V version):
"lets say at an extreme i tried to run 6 instead of 8: 16.7A/6= 2.78 A = 37.2 Vf. would it provide the COB only 36V? and the COB would only pull 2.04A at that voltage?"
Never realized the *safe* side (for humans) of using those big CV drivers ...
Did you get an answer to your previous question (about 36V version VS 48V version):
"lets say at an extreme i tried to run 6 instead of 8: 16.7A/6= 2.78 A = 37.2 Vf. would it provide the COB only 36V? and the COB would only pull 2.04A at that voltage?"
ELG drivers do too. When you dim a B version under 10%, they go to 0%.
bicit
Well-Known Member
Haven't had a chance to hook mine up and play with it yet. However from the data sheet the 5vsb line is supposed to be able to provide 5v@500ma.
Looks like the RC line can be controlled by opening/closing the circuit or by using a 5v signal. The 5vsb line I'm assuming is intended to provide the power for what ever 'switch' ends up being used.
The dim line is separate from the RC line and is the same old 3-in-1 dimming function.
These buggers are impressively large. On par with some of the 600w ballasts I have
loftygoals
Well-Known Member
Any definitive answer with the RC+ / RC - lines?
I'm assuming a make/break switch is used to turn it on/off?
And 5v can be used to provide power if you need it but is not necessary?
Thanks for any insight
I'm assuming a make/break switch is used to turn it on/off?
And 5v can be used to provide power if you need it but is not necessary?
Thanks for any insight
Malocan
Well-Known Member
Hi guys,
i wanne build soon a new light, i will use 10* CLU058-1825. Now i wonder if the HLG-600H-54B would be a good driver for this cobs,
11,2A / 10 COBS = 1,12A for one COB. With 1,12A one cob use around 51V (=57watt one cob).
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/HLG-600H-SPEC-806212.pdf
Looks like this driver would pretty good for this combo, my knowdledge about parallel driver is like zero. I know just a bit, because i watched a video from growmau. He explained some basics.
I would like to use this driver for 2 reasons, 1st efficiency and 2nd, i would only need 1 cable to the light fixture from the driver.
Would be nice if some guys can give me some input for my idea.
Has wiring parallel to many disadvanteges? If yes, could i fix this disadvanteges easy? Or are they no disadvanteges?
Thanks for any input
i wanne build soon a new light, i will use 10* CLU058-1825. Now i wonder if the HLG-600H-54B would be a good driver for this cobs,
11,2A / 10 COBS = 1,12A for one COB. With 1,12A one cob use around 51V (=57watt one cob).
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/HLG-600H-SPEC-806212.pdf
Looks like this driver would pretty good for this combo, my knowdledge about parallel driver is like zero. I know just a bit, because i watched a video from growmau. He explained some basics.
I would like to use this driver for 2 reasons, 1st efficiency and 2nd, i would only need 1 cable to the light fixture from the driver.
Would be nice if some guys can give me some input for my idea.
Has wiring parallel to many disadvanteges? If yes, could i fix this disadvanteges easy? Or are they no disadvanteges?
Thanks for any input
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
You might want to go with the HLG320H-C1400 and run 8 COBs. This way you can build 2 fixtures and at 320 watts each. You can still make it a remote driver. CDIweb has a few here https://led.cdiweb.com/ProductDetail/HLG320HC1400B-Mean-Well-USA/593952/
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
These are truly 350 watt drivers. Just as the 240 is 250, 120 is 125 and the 185 is 200.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Yeah, so 80 to 88 watts each is well below nominal ( 117 watts). So, say you use a 3500k 80cri, you are easily over 155 lumen per watt (sorry I don't have excel to run the #s). It will also be easier to do 2 rows of 4 than trying to figure out how to use 5.
febisfebi
Well-Known Member
I have been curious about the driver options for this chip as well. There are obviously very few choices right now as far as meanwell goes, but I have notice this tiwce now with suggested drivers. The first example is running 2 058's off an HLG-240-C2100, whic could run them up to 125w each which is supposed to be still in the 160lpw range if I remember correctly. Would be nice, but the voltage turned all the way up is 119vDC which is 3.5vdc over the max voltahge for 2 of these chips, at 56v max a piece. The second example @nevergoodenuf listed where you use 4 on the HLG-320H-C1400, again, turned all the way up, the wattage is fine, but again we are going over the max listed voltage of 56v. only by 1.15v in this case, but still, I would be worried to run it at full power, and I would imagine wiring in a small resistor to your potentiometer circuit would need to be standard practice to prevent going over voltage with these drivers, but that would also limit your wattage, also making the HLG-240-C2100A especially, but also HLG-320H-C1400A not an option for people trying to keep it simple, and skip the soldering, extra circuits, parts, and now resistors.
@Airwalker16 are you absolutely sure the HLG-320H-C1400 spits out 350w? it is rated at 320.6w according to the meanwell datasheet. I know the model numbers dont match the wattage, the HLG120HC1400s is rated at 151.2w, and is actually a decent option for 2 058's at ~75w a piece. no over voltage, as the max is 108, which is perfect. 185's is listed 200w, and 240's 250w, but I have also heard that some meanwells put out more than they are rated for, by a significant amount sometimes. I have heard of an extra 20w on the output side, and as much as 53w on the input using a kill a watt, and we would expect extra draw on the input as these drivers are "only" 94-95.5% efficient, but having said that, an extra 53w at the input of a 240 running at 94% means it is definitely pushing more than 250w.
I like the HLG-600H-54 for these chips. It is the only driver I know of that would really give you a full set of options for how hard to drive these monster cob's, as you could run anywhere from 2 058's at 300w a piece, all the way up to 12, at 50w a piece, or more if one were so inclined, and anywhere in between. Plus you can always add or remove a cob or 2 to either improve efficiency, or run em harder. the only downside is running them in parallel, but with a chip that can handle 364w that is hardly a concern if you are running 3 or more cobs on this driver. If you were crazy enough to run them that hard and had either water cooling, or a fucking massive heatsink setup, you could still have one go out, and the other 2 would be fine at 300. but if you are running 5 or 6, or more, which would be a little more realistic, you could have half your cob's go out all at once, and still be within range. The heat may be an issue, but its entirely unlikely that anyone's going to loose half their cobs, before noticing, on an assembled working fixuture anyways. there is plenty of room for people to blow out lots, or all their cob's in the building process, But that goes for any diy'er building any sort of cob fixture.
@Airwalker16 are you absolutely sure the HLG-320H-C1400 spits out 350w? it is rated at 320.6w according to the meanwell datasheet. I know the model numbers dont match the wattage, the HLG120HC1400s is rated at 151.2w, and is actually a decent option for 2 058's at ~75w a piece. no over voltage, as the max is 108, which is perfect. 185's is listed 200w, and 240's 250w, but I have also heard that some meanwells put out more than they are rated for, by a significant amount sometimes. I have heard of an extra 20w on the output side, and as much as 53w on the input using a kill a watt, and we would expect extra draw on the input as these drivers are "only" 94-95.5% efficient, but having said that, an extra 53w at the input of a 240 running at 94% means it is definitely pushing more than 250w.
I like the HLG-600H-54 for these chips. It is the only driver I know of that would really give you a full set of options for how hard to drive these monster cob's, as you could run anywhere from 2 058's at 300w a piece, all the way up to 12, at 50w a piece, or more if one were so inclined, and anywhere in between. Plus you can always add or remove a cob or 2 to either improve efficiency, or run em harder. the only downside is running them in parallel, but with a chip that can handle 364w that is hardly a concern if you are running 3 or more cobs on this driver. If you were crazy enough to run them that hard and had either water cooling, or a fucking massive heatsink setup, you could still have one go out, and the other 2 would be fine at 300. but if you are running 5 or 6, or more, which would be a little more realistic, you could have half your cob's go out all at once, and still be within range. The heat may be an issue, but its entirely unlikely that anyone's going to loose half their cobs, before noticing, on an assembled working fixuture anyways. there is plenty of room for people to blow out lots, or all their cob's in the building process, But that goes for any diy'er building any sort of cob fixture.
CobKits
Well-Known Member
what? there are dozens of choices. they make a dozen 48V constant voltage drivers that can drive these up to 3A+
and any of the regular constant current drivers like hlg-185h,240h, 320h all work fine.
it doesnt work like that. you *want* your driver voltage to be more than your cob voltage at a given current
http://www.meanwell.com/product/led/LED.html > click on HLG-320h-c > click on "REPORT" tab>select 1400mA
max current = 1.63A (note you might need 'A' version to do that - seems that B version tops out at 1.4A with dimmer leads open)
febisfebi
Well-Known Member
You are right, I suppose there are many single cob driver options, or paralell options, which is really probably a better way to go for these anyways. Might be a turnoff for some diyer's as wiring starts to get more complicated, and dimming must now be done per led, instead of being able to dim the entire panel.
I suppose I am looking too much into matching the voltage as close to the nominal as possible. Considering most people dont run their cob's anywhere near full power I suppose its a moot point.
What I dont understand is how you can, or why you "want" to go over voltage they clearly state on the spec sheet that 56v is the max voltage. In what case would you want to be running at 59, 60v etc. I thought that was the whole point of matching drivers to cob's, was to match the max voltage to number and type of cob's so you wouldnt end up blowing them out by going over voltage.
I understand that Watts = V * A and vice vice versa. and that Volts, amps, and watts are different versions of the same amount of energy. But high voltage (especially dc) will give a human a nice jolt at 400v. whereas a 12v car battery, which posses large amounts of current, but low voltage is basically harmless to humans. But no doubt there is enough energy in there to knock you on your ass if connected to a 110v AC inverter, or DC-DC converter to raise the voltage and lower the current. Why wouldnt the same be true for cob's. I'm sure its probably a simple answer. something like maybe 56.2v is the max voltage they can handle at 5.75A But I would like to know more
Okay so the A version can run at 350+w, although I cant find that 1.63 max current anywhere on that datasheet, but i'll take your word for it. its a long sheet. Good to know. Thanks
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I thought it did but after a few people explaining to look at the data sheet too, it looks like it's 320. Just thought it was stupid that it doesnt follow the same pattern as all the rest. Hlg120=125/hlg185=200/hlg240=250. But I guess hlg320=320 this time.
febisfebi
Well-Known Member
agreed, but even the 320 is not always 320w. the 700ma version is 299, and some of the other lower current ones are as well. But at 234v * 1.63A =381.42w so if the A model can really push 1.63 thats damn near 400w. no wonder people are finding more watts than they paid for
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Ya that's very interesting. That's a B model with dim leads capped off I thought? And where is 1.63 comin from? It's 1.4 then 1.75 next.agreed, but even the 320 is not always 320w. the 700ma version is 299, and some of the other lower current ones are as well. But at 234v * 1.63A =381.42w so if the A model can really push 1.63 thats damn near 400w. no wonder people are finding more watts than they paid for
febisfebi
Well-Known Member
75 is a
1.75 is a different driver. Higher amps, lower voltage.
it sounds like your looking at the HLG-320h-C-all models sheet @CobKits linked to. from that page Up at the top you need to click -> Report -> HLG320h-C1400 click on that and it should bring up the test report sheet for the 1.4A 320w spec driver. I have had some trouble finding any place where it says
But the best I can find is on page 2 "Output function test" scroll down to line item 4, and althought the spec says 700ma-1400ma but the result of their test appears to be 0.561A-1.629A. That is the best info I can find on the subject. I am curious if that is where @CobKits came up with the 1.63A. I dont see anywhere else on that sheet where it mentions anything above the 1.4a spec. so I'm guessing thats what we are talking about. I am also curious why it would only be the A version that could reach that. the numbers appear to be the result of the adjustment range
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
It would explain the extra 8% output if you cap the dimming leads.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
That's what I thought. I remember seeing you get the very highest output by using B model with capped dim leads.
CobKits
Well-Known Member
Im pretty sure A model with the manual current adjustment tops B model, i have an 185H-C1400A coming next week to run side by side.
the closed-dimming-lead bump you describe is documented in the test report and by many peoples experience here
with the current adjustable A model should be able to get up to the full 1.57A, which is 112% of output current
i know how the constant voltage "A" models work but i havent had a constant current "A" model to play with. constant voltage 185H-48A tops out at about 225W and ideally has less wasted voltage but again it depends how close your cobs are matched to the upper range of the driver current. this is why 50V citizens crush on a 48V driver that turns up to 53V - youre really hittin the limit at a realistic current
looks like for the constant current 185H-C1400 models we have
"B" = 1.4A x 143V x102-108% = 204-216W, avg 210W
"A" = 1.57A x 143V = 224.5W
That's IF you're lucky to have good driver utility on voltage, which is rare.
4 CXB3590s on a 185H-C1400B (1.47A): 205.6W
4 CXB3590s on a 185H-C1400A (1.57A): 220.8W
as you can see it works out well on the 185 which just so happens to max out at 200W which is a nice round number for the 50W cobs, but the 240 series hits 290W max and the 320 series hits 380W, so you have 30-40 unused driver watts there. none of this on the constant voltage drivers of course
^^above is all datasheet theoretical nonsense, ill report back when i get the 185H-C1400A in my hands, prob test it next weekend
the closed-dimming-lead bump you describe is documented in the test report and by many peoples experience here
with the current adjustable A model should be able to get up to the full 1.57A, which is 112% of output current
i know how the constant voltage "A" models work but i havent had a constant current "A" model to play with. constant voltage 185H-48A tops out at about 225W and ideally has less wasted voltage but again it depends how close your cobs are matched to the upper range of the driver current. this is why 50V citizens crush on a 48V driver that turns up to 53V - youre really hittin the limit at a realistic current
looks like for the constant current 185H-C1400 models we have
"B" = 1.4A x 143V x102-108% = 204-216W, avg 210W
"A" = 1.57A x 143V = 224.5W
That's IF you're lucky to have good driver utility on voltage, which is rare.
4 CXB3590s on a 185H-C1400B (1.47A): 205.6W
4 CXB3590s on a 185H-C1400A (1.57A): 220.8W
as you can see it works out well on the 185 which just so happens to max out at 200W which is a nice round number for the 50W cobs, but the 240 series hits 290W max and the 320 series hits 380W, so you have 30-40 unused driver watts there. none of this on the constant voltage drivers of course
^^above is all datasheet theoretical nonsense, ill report back when i get the 185H-C1400A in my hands, prob test it next weekend
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loftygoals
Well-Known Member
I'm running constant current HLG-600H-36A models.
HLG-600H-36A tops out at 630W for me but datasheet says it should be 601.2W
HLG-600H-36A tops out at 630W for me but datasheet says it should be 601.2W
CobKits
Well-Known Member
i think you mean what most around here would call a "constant voltage" driver (even though in reality it is CV/CC)
yes they always beat the datasheet you gotta look at the test report to see the true upper range. and again it depends on your cob voltage. is that 630W input or output?test report says that HLG600 can put out 18.78A at up to 39.6V which is over 730W. if youre running at the typ. 36V the 630W sounds like max.
youd have to run 36ishV cobs with slightly higher voltage like 3070s to max out a 36V constant voltage driver
yes they always beat the datasheet you gotta look at the test report to see the true upper range. and again it depends on your cob voltage. is that 630W input or output?test report says that HLG600 can put out 18.78A at up to 39.6V which is over 730W. if youre running at the typ. 36V the 630W sounds like max.
youd have to run 36ishV cobs with slightly higher voltage like 3070s to max out a 36V constant voltage driver
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