The LED Market's Divisions of Quality, (Apollo/SGS/AT200)

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Could be a 9V or a 12V. If it is a high quality PSU it could be 75-80% efficient. If it is a super cheapo it could be 40-50% efficient.
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Brother scotch that is some awesome work. Takes a lot to take it all apart and be organize. Just keeping your self busy I guess. Very nice!
The heatsink comparisons are great. Can't wait to be using that AT slab for my 3070's(that I have in hand :) ).

I can confirm that the Area 51 drivers are adjustable, I found out my XGS was only pulling 165 watts and Jeff told me they weren't adjusted properly at assembly.
I had a similar but opposite experience with one of my at120's, it was pulling 214w...at120, not at200. So I went in and dialed the current plug(Io) in scotches last pic of post#4, down equally on both drivers...I did it while plugged into my wattage meter and watched it go down. Maybe not perfect...but I can adjust the current on the drivers and get different wattage(up or down)...never played with the voltage though.

The meanwell plc driver can do both CC and CV(page 3 of spec sheet... http://www.meanwell.com/search/PLC-100/PLC-100-spec.pdf). Not sure how that works exactly(someone on here will)...but the spec sheet says both. Not saying AT isn't running CV...just that the drivers are supposedly capable either, and that I only adjust my current dial when I mess around with mine. Nothing more, nothing less.
 

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
Which one is the current adjustment g? Thought about bumping mine up and throwing on the 50's hehe...

Do you know what the AT200s are supposed to be drawing? (Main production version) if not would you be willing to find out and lemme know? I'm still at 167 which STILL rocks, and I'm still pretty close to your apogee readings but if I'm off from the finished products draw I'd wanna match that.

Hope your doing well brother!
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Which one is the current adjustment g? Thought about bumping mine up and throwing on the 50's hehe...
Do you know what the AT200s are supposed to be drawing? (Main production version) if not would you be willing to find out and lemme know? I'm still at 167 which STILL rocks, and I'm still pretty close to your apogee readings but if I'm off from the finished products draw I'd wanna match that.
Hope your doing well brother!
The one marked (Io)...eye ohh(phonetically)...it's the bottom one when you can read the driver . You just pull that plastic bump off(it just is a cover so things don't get adjusted by accident) and put a little phillips head down there...and start turning....plugging it into the wattage meter while you do this is a must unless you have the actual meters to use.

I asked a while ago and they said somewhere 170 range if I remember. But honestly they brags about how they can be cranked up and run great... so if more wattage is what you need, the AT has extra in there and will run perfectly when up around 200w.
Currious to see what some of the more educated than I folks say about how I adjust them.

I believe that the meanwell hlg's are going to make it into production soon and will add a little more efficiency %.
 

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
Thank you homie. I have a killawatt meter and just unscrewed the back and got settled in. I don't NEED anymore power, I think my coverage over a 3x3' was 250-350 in the corners with a solid center saturation at 28-30" and I was seriously impressed with that, but like you said- killing time brother. 'nother 335 days till I can comfortably germ anything. (Sour Kush by DNA and AoS at the top of my list) and I'd like to see if I can get up to 500 in the corners @200w even. So we'll see. I plan on doing some 3x3' graphs with these 3 panels given I find time. (355 days.... surely, so that will be the next comparison)
 

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
Alright G! I love this feature!! Wish AT would make it "legal" to do so lol

I could see myself dimming more than running them heavier, given my area's dimensions but it was wicked to watch the LEDs raise and lower accordingly.

I could go as low as 101w (which is just, awesome), and as high as 188w but settling at 186w. Hehe. All with fans (which added 3watts) I wish it did 200 even but there is probably reasoning behind it and I didn't want to take the chance of trying to turn the screws too much and stripping em or fucking somethin serious up if they can't handle that much pow'a!

I did notice a buzz from one of the drivers (the higher drawing one) when I went from low to high- one driver @48w and the other working its way to 91-92w, but as I adjusted them closer together the buzz went away in the transition. No worries.

Thank you g, very cool feature. Wonder how low of wattage I could go and still hit similar #'s as the other products....

image.jpg image.jpg
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Maybe A 51 can get the assemblers to fill out a form stating individual unit wattage and affix a sticker
 

epicfail

Well-Known Member
I can confirm that the Area 51 drivers are adjustable, I found out my XGS was only pulling 165 watts and Jeff told me they weren't adjusted properly at assembly.
Maybe A 51 can get the assemblers to fill out a form stating individual unit wattage and affix a sticker

I cant believe they made it out of the "factory" with out being tested. I guess I'm going to need to test my RW-150s to make sure of the draw.

Too bad I Killed-A-Watt before receiving the a51's. It worked for a whole run with everything plugged into it, when I unplugged the power bar I noticed the socket was melted. It never ran over 600 watts but was plugged in 10 weeks straight. When I went to use it again a few months later it no longer worked.

killed-a-watt.JPG

I will definitely try a different brand next time.
 
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