The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Skunk Baxter said:
Hi, Greenthumbs!

This is the first time I've ever used them for a cure, but because this is such a complicated harvest I thought it might make things easier. Since this is a pheno hunt, I'm not just harvesting everything into one big pile - I'm separating out the buds from about 5 different plants, and will weigh each plant's output individually when the cure is finished. That means I need to keep the buds from the possible mothers in their own jars for a few weeks, separate from each other, until they can be properly smoked and evaluated.

So I've got a lot of different jars with different quantities of weed, many of them harvested a week or two apart, and it's a challenge to maintain them all at optimum moisture levels. I have a record of when each plant was harvested, so I know that Jar #3 is three days farther along in the cure than Jar #1, and Plant #7 was cut a week before Plant #2 and a week and a half before #3 (and so on) but none of the primary mother candidates were harvested on the same day. Since the Boveda packs are supposed to absorb extra humidity as well as release it as needed, I thought they might help me keep every jar at a uniform level.

So far, it really seems to be working. They all smell incredible; I usually suck at curing, but these are really making it go more smoothly. I think I'll be doing this on a regular basis from now on. Only thing I'll change is get some larger sized packs for tubfuls, because the little 60-grammers aren't well-suited for a pound or a pound and a half in one container.
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i have used them with a split harvest, sure made things easier.
You still have to remember to burp the jars until you get the right texture and pliability you desire. I am totally sold on them.
GR
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
since1991 said:
Look up what greenhouse veggie growers do to c ombat fungus gnats
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Where do you find that info?
I have been using BTi crumbled and scattered over the top of the coco, and added some to a feeding to get it directly into the seed bed.
I have used nematodes for protecting turfgrass from soil porn pathogens with great success.
GR
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
GreenThumbsMcgee said:
ok, I have yet to find that perfect time to jar them up. Its really about timing. To early or to late can screw ya. Better to early then late tho, and i know that in my head, so i think I am always overly paranoid and scared to let them even come close to 7 days drying on the hangar. I usually go about 3 days, then into tubs with a loose fit lid, half way on half way off, and let them set there anothere day or two, until they stay under 70%, then to jars.
also, when exactly do you put the packets in? right off the get go? or after you get them to a stable 70% or lower?
I do realize this thread is about Canna products, so sorry to be off topic, just saw your post earlier, and it made me think about it. I never can remember the questions i have if i dont ask right away. thanks again dude.
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GTM, I had gone the worry route during drying until I started using Bovedas. I to never go seven days on the hangers or in the hanging trays. As you say, most is 3 to 4 days, then I begin putting them in plastic containers, starting at 12 hrs in, 3 hrs out, and I repeat as necessay till my buds or the right texture and pliability. Then I put them into jars with the Bovedas and once a day I open them check for pliability, if needed I will shake the open jar and leave it open for a short time the close it. I do this until i get my buds to where I want them , and I seal the jars and open them once a week to check them and burp as needed.
Once they are where I want them I vacuum seal the jars and begin my checking every two to three months. Have not had a failure yet.bongsmilie

GR
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
Hopefully this is the place to ask this.
May plan to date! I will be running Canna Coco in two to three gallon smart pots. My cabinet, 4 X 2.5 X 6' is in my garage and in the summer it get quite warm. My air intake comes from inside the house so keeping the inside cabinet cool is not an issue, will be running a 6" fan outside the cabinet with the filter in the cabinet.
What I think will be an issue is the drip irrigation system. I plan on having my res inside the house where my intake air line is located and running a flexline through the wall and fasten to the main feed line out side the cabinet. Once inside the cabinet the set up is something like this, got this pic online I hope they don't mind me using it.

I want it set up so the feed line drains back into the res to aerate before being pumped to the plants again. Do I have to worry about the flex line heating up and causing the water/nutes to heat up? I expect no more than 18" of flex line and probably less. I would think that the water/nutes being delivered would cool the flex line rapidly causing no harm.

Another question please, I will not be using emitters on the lines, just open feed hose, probaby 3/16" ID. If i have the lines drain back to the res could that cause a issues?
My mighty grow space!


Thanks y'all!
GR
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
If your running a top feed/drip type system and using any media except clay balls i wouldnt bother with recirculating the nutrient solution. Get rid of that runoff. By the time do a rez change (7-14 days) out you waste the same amount of solution running drain to waste. Except for flood and drain and of course NFT..aero..dwc..i drain to waste. Have been for years. Especially coco coir...peat mixes and rockwool drip systems. Theres a reason why the pros topfeed drip in an open non recovery setup. Not just cannabis growers either.
 
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gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
since1991 said:
If your running a top feed/drip type system and using any media except clay balls i wouldnt bother with recirculating the nutrient solution. Get rid of that runoff. By the time do a rez change (7-14 days) out you waste the same amount of solution running drain to waste. Except for flood and drain and of course NFT..aero..dwc..i drain to waste. Have been for years. Especially coco coir...peat mixes and rockwool drip systems. Theres a reason why the pros topfeed drip in an open non recovery setup. Not just cannabis growers either.
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Thanks for the response! I am sorry I am not trying to recover the solution, just drain the unused back to the res to keep it from heating up in the line and causing damage to the plants. I do plan on DTW. Sorry if I was not clear. From my readings on this I definitely know this is the route to go. I hope to be able to ask questions of you as I learn this method.
GR
 
Skunk Baxter

Skunk Baxter

Well-Known Member
OK, one more time for some Canna Coco bud porn. I finally harvested today the last plant of that pheno hunt I've been doing since January. 16 weeks for this last plant to finish, and honestly I could have kept it going another week or so if I'd wanted... but enough is enough. Out with the old and in with the new, I need the space.

The top cola on this is just over 20 inches long, and 16 inches in diameter. I held a bottle of Super Thrive in front of it for scale.

Canna. Nutes .Rock. 78.jpg
 
Blue brother

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
can I use bio Canna with Canna coco in a drain to waste set up, wanna do a couple plants with vecanic nutes but don't want no soil. Thanks, cool thread
 
Eric Pettit

Eric Pettit

Member
jberry said:
Another really important fact about canna nutrients that i should have posted in the first page is that:

Canna designs their nutrients for tap water with a ppm of 200, and they are counting on the majority of it being cal/mag...

This is crucial if you want to get the results you deserve... After all these nutes arent cheap, and they wont work and be stable the way they are suppose to, unless you have that 200 ppm of cal/mag...

Idk why canna doesnt make this more well known?

~jb
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is there a way to know how much calcium is in your tap water?
 
Abucks

Abucks

Well-Known Member
So here are some pics from harvest day one. These are bubblegum tops grown in canna with canna coco nutes. Easiest grow I've done in the last 20 years. Total nutrient cost for this 2k watt grow was under $300. Color me a canna man for life. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Abucks

Abucks

Well-Known Member
sky rocket said:
Nice grow man. Did you only use the whole canna line?
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Thanks! Yup, I used only canna. Canna bricks, canna coco a+b, rhyzo, cannazyme, and PK 13/14. I fallowed the nute calculator on their site, started veg with the light feed schedule, and worked my way to the heavy feed schedule during flowering. By far the easiest system I've ever worked with, and the best results.
 
sky rocket

sky rocket

Well-Known Member
Abucks said:
Thanks! Yup, I used only canna. Canna bricks, canna coco a+b, rhyzo, cannazyme, and PK 13/14. I fallowed the nute calculator on their site, started veg with the light feed schedule, and worked my way to the heavy feed schedule during flowering. By far the easiest system I've ever worked with, and the best results.
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Did you use the canna boost?
 
Abucks

Abucks

Well-Known Member
sky rocket said:
Did you use the canna boost?
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Nope. In all the research Ive done, I can't come up with concrete proof that it is worth the cost. It seems a 50/50 split, some live it and some say it's a waste of money. I was thinking about trying it on this next grow, but that depends on how well I do on this harvest.
 
sky rocket

sky rocket

Well-Known Member
Abucks said:
Nope. In all the research Ive done, I can't come up with concrete proof that it is worth the cost. It seems a 50/50 split, some live it and some say it's a waste of money. I was thinking about trying it on this next grow, but that depends on how well I do on this harvest.
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Based on your pics looks like you don't need it. Did you run c02 in your setup?
 
Abucks

Abucks

Well-Known Member
sky rocket said:
Abucks did you follow canna's site as far as flushing or did you just use just water?
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This is an email from canna clearing up the same question I had about flushing. This is especially important if you are reusing your coco (which is highly recommended).
Thanks for the question. The reason you need to maintain the minimum level of nutrient application is to finish displacing the ions given off by the coco so that it washes out and does not affect the nutrient ratio and subsequent uptake. At the end, you really need to flush for 3 days to 2 weeks based on things like feed levels and crop grown. This also resets the Phosphate buffer so that it performs as a new medium again at crop start. It will not specifically affect microlife levels except as follows as you continue to set up the old coco medium for reuse.

After crop, it is a great idea to pull the medium out of direct production for a couple weeks, up to a month is really good. Then, before reuse, you give it a re-hydrating watering with a nutrient slurry at beginning levels, and allow it to drain well. Then plant the new plants and irrigate again fully with a full beginning feed as is normal. Yes, live things die out, but the spores remain to come back again. Also, this will hold down the excess salts and insure they drain properly.

So I lightly flushed with water and cannazyme for the last week. Will know the results in a few days :)
 
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