#1Raiderfan420
Well-Known Member
8 ml of eachAm I supposed to add soil a/b 8ml of both or each?
8 ml of eachAm I supposed to add soil a/b 8ml of both or each?
so i take it you dont use air stones or h202. if that is the case how do you oxygenate your water? or is that not nesicary with h&g or is it the method of growing that lets you not use airstones?why add more cost?
lol
why??!!?!!! i just dont understand it.
long as you keep your shit clean and pathogen free which is easy unless you are injecting air into your reservoir and keep warm water, you wont need it.
roots like cold water and high DO (dissolved oxygen) levels, not warm water and h2o2.
i take back my previous post. so what do you mean when you say you use mechanical force? this sounds awesome but i'm not understanding how its done.that is up to you.
i run no air pumps. air pumps cause wild pH and EC. hella fluctuation. it can also inject airborne spores and pathogens into the res no bueno
i use mechanical force and waterfall with fast flowing water to create my DO.
i try to keep my res @ 65F or less.
Dissolved Oxygen is relative to temps. So it doesnt matter if you have a 2hp air pump on your res....or if you pouring 30mL of 50% h2o2 in your res.....it wont matter. You know why? your res temps are @ 72F. The warmer water gets, the quicker it saturates. So at 72F res temperature you can only get maximum 8 mg/L aka ppm or LESS into 72F water.
colder water can dissolve the gas (o2) more.
If the water becomes too warm, even if 100% saturated, O2 levels may be suboptimal for many species of life
In other words, oxygen can be present in the water, but at too low a concentration to sustain life
After that comes anaerobic bacteria (the bad stuff) when you have warm water, it creates a nice breeding ground. Anaerboic bacteria (the bad stuff) doesnt like air much. nor cold temps. Pythium aka Root Rot begins to thrive and bam.... then this is when people will start using h2o2.... which will kill them. but not all by itself. it is only a bandaid.
this is why i always said, roots like cold water and high DO levels, not warm water and h2o2
anything over 68F in hydro is subpar in my not so humble opinion. as the reason we do hydro is for the increase water supplements and bucoo crazy roots to take advantage, we must control it.
then we wont need pathogen control
i dont even use it. dont rinse my res out between res changes. none of that extra shit. i have one of the cleanest running res i've ever saw
H202 after 24 hours is dissolved into the h20 source, just more 02 in the system. You can then add beneficial bacteria at that point. No flush necessaryYour PPMs are way too high...I never suggest never going over 1000. Some strains can take more, some can't. H202 will kill the Roots Excelurator and the enzymes such as Bud XL and Multi Zen. Here is some info on the Roots XL...... Roots Excelurator has beneficial bacteria in it….Would you put your secret recipe online? I don’t think so….
This product is without a doubt the most powerful rooting stimulant available. It works by forming a membrane around roots and protecting them from harmful bacteria and fungus. Roots Excelurator will not only protect your plants from harmful root disease, but it will also cure existing cases of root rot.
Derived From: Organic biological organisms, Ammonium Nitrate, and Potassium Hydroxide.
Ingredients Explained: This amazing biological water and/or soil treatment protects the root zone by ridding the plant of unwanted microbial pests. This beneficial root stimulator will easily out perform all other root simulators! Roots Excelurator is packaged in an aluminum canister to preserve organic ingredients and beneficial organisms.
Application: Add 1.1 ml of Roots Excelurator to every gallon of water in the nutrient solution. Administer at every feeding during the first two weeks of the rearing cycle. At 1.1 ml/gallon, Roots Excelurator is the least expensive root stimulant, per dose, on the market.
So the pretty silver bottle is not for looks….This protects the bacteria by staying colder than plastic. Peace and good luck
Yes you can do this....however....only a couple times per run....other wise you will constantly kill the beneficial bacteria colonies that Root Excelurator builds up within the root mass.H202 after 24 hours is dissolved into the h20 source, just more 02 in the system. You can then add beneficial bacteria at that point. No flush necessary
Yeah...but....Don't you want that crazy root growth that the Roots Excelurator causes?I was to lazy to read through all the answers to your question but YES there are bennies in the root excel. You will also kill most if not all of the enzymes/microlife in the BudXL, Multizen & GreatWhite if you use h202. I would say try to maintain a cool res temp and use a circulation pump rather than an airstore (obviously not possible in DWC) for best results. After using any type of peroxide it is a good idea to reinnoculate after it has been dumped/disolved. I'm starting to believe Dutchmaster is right about running a bacteria free system in Hydro. I see the benefits in soil clearly but it is so hard to build up any type of sustainable colony of microlife in hydro it is almost not worth the effort/money IMO.
you actually can run completely organic hydro with a few different nute lines...but there is nothing wrong with running a sterile rez...Whatever your thing is....House and Garden just has some great products which are enzyme based and can't be used with H202....the only thing i want growing in my rez is roots. i just dont understand the concept of organic+hydro, its one or the other, not both
The great white is causing the setiment. The H&G will run clean without it. I wouldn't worry about the setiment unless it is causing problems with your pumps. I usually only run the GW the first couple weeks of veg to give them a good start, then cut it out. I use the algen extract, root excel, and drip clean with my AB in veg with great results.i been using h n g for a few weeks and i cant seem to get the mixing down right. im getting sediment in the bottom of my res. is there a better way of doing it?
im using aqua flakes a and b with great white and thats it
i mix a first and let sit for like 5 min and then mix b and let sit for 5, ppm and ph then add great white
i mix 15 gal a time and i always have a reddish sediment in the bottom a day later wtf? +rep for any creditable info
It is normal for ph levels to climb for the first day or two after you ad your nutrients. The plants uptake water faster or slower than they take up nutrients at different times through out the grow. So it is normal to have ph fluctuations and even more so with RW. I usually adjust my ph about an hour after adding nutrients and then again the next day. A climbing ph is a good thing.Hey, i use House & Garden , the complete line , i am currently doing hydro with rock wool, water - to - waste with drip lines with a 45 gal res. And i am experiencing some daily fluctuations with the pH levels which I want to know are normal.
I use Reverse Osmosis, i add Cal Mag [150 ppms] back into the water, then i add Aqua Flakes A & B and then pH the water. Usually its about 4.1 so i pH up to 5.5 - 5.8. I then add the supplements which take the pH up to 6.1 - 6.6. Finally, i pH down to 5.5 - 5.8 and im done.
The next day the pH goes up to about 6.2 , should i bring it down everyday or just let be? And are the fluctuations normal
?
Thanks Everyone :]
Damn Bro, first let me say being an ass man, I love the avatar. House and Garden are not all OMRI. I would use the entire line per the feeding charts for best results. If you haven't been to their official site check it out http://www.house-garden.us/ . Damn, I sound like a fuckin H&G salesman now, where the hell is my commision check? lolIs H&G a chemical nute, ie, non organic? Also, what products would I want for the easiest feeding?
But im running water - to waste, so the amount of nutrients the plants take in cannot fluctuate the pH because the run off water does not go back into the res.It is normal for ph levels to climb for the first day or two after you ad your nutrients. The plants uptake water faster or slower than they take up nutrients at different times through out the grow. So it is normal to have ph fluctuations and even more so with RW. I usually adjust my ph about an hour after adding nutrients and then again the next day. A climbing ph is a good thing.