I'm not disagreeing with you or this analogy but to my understanding is, your saying don't worry about Lumens and get Purp color lighting, at least as an added color spectrum to your grow lighting situation. Post some pictures of grows aupporting this thesis; I am very interested! Especially because all the purple lighting that I have seen so far is around $7.00 for 100 watt's.want to know theses any gud...........
Introducing Nlite™ - a range of Quality Fluorescent lamps designed for PLANTS (also perfect for aquaria and reptiles).
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,Sans Serif][SIZE=+1]Control the shape and growth of your plants with light - Photoponics. [/SIZE][/FONT]
Each lamp has choice of 3 colours :- Blue and Red and PURple™.
[SIZE=+1]PURple™ ? YES. Introducing the Nlite™ PURple™[/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]PUR stands for Photosynthetically Useful Radiation.[/SIZE]
Humans are most sensitive to green light (green curve below). Wide spectrum light with lots of green appears to us as white.
Plants use a part of the sun's spectral range to grow. This is known as the PLANT ACTION SPECTRUM. (yellow curve)
Light energy in this range is measured as PAR - Photosynthetically Active Radiation.
Plants look green because they reflect most green light, and absorb most red and blue.
Plants therefore respond more to light from the RED and BLUE ends of the plant action spectrum.
PURple lamps have this ideal spectrum shaped the way plants "see" the light. (white curve) ( a little spike of green is left to allow US to see plants lit by PURple)
[SIZE=+1]PUR is the amount of the PAR that the plants use efficiently. [/SIZE]
Nlite™ lamps are made in 3 PUR colours. Plants change their growth response to different levels of these PUR colours :-
(Blue and Red Nlites™ are available here)
- PURple - The Ultimate 100% PUR. Purple is perfect for all stages of plant growth, germination, root development, tuber and bulb formation and gives lots of internodal growth, and budsites. Great for orchids, cacti, ethnobotanicals, coral, sea plants etc. A small amount of NEAR UV ensures good production of essential oils - Great for Basil and other aromatic herbs.
- BLUE. stimulates chlorophyll production more than any other colour, encouraging thick leaves, strong stems and compact vegatitive and leafy growth, keeps internodes close. Great for seedlings and cuttings. Perfect for plants cropped before flowering stage, such as lettuce and cress. With only blue light your plants stay short, and maturity takes much longer
- RED encouages maturation of fruit and flowers towards the end of growth cycle. Use exclusively for the finishing period to maximise your fruit or flower yields. Perfect for flowers, peppers, and tomatoes. Too much red and no blue early on will S...t......r....e.......t.....c....h... your plants and increase internode distance.
(By contrast HPS lamps give out 100% PAR, but only 33% PUR ! mostly they give out green and yellow and harmful infra red)
We recommend greater than 50 watts of Nlite™per 30cm x 30cm (square foot) of horizontal canopy. Light distance can be as little as 3cm, the closer the better.
All Nlites™ are T5HO ! Thats 48% more light than standard T5.
Nlite™ Fluorescents have these Features and Benefits:-
- Low Power Operation , thus saving costs and earth resources
- Low working temperature allowing more light closer to your plants because of massive heat reduction.
- 200W professional versions use separate ballasts to massively increase control over infra-red radiation (damages all plants), heat build-up, safety and humidity problems.
- Seperate ballasts reduce future Economical and Environmental costs, only replacement lamps are needed. This significanly reduces replacement costs in subsequent grow cycles.
- Separate ballasts increase light output, reduce electricity use. and run silently
- Plastic shell is made of recycled material.
- Reliable.
- 6 MONTH GUARANTEE against manufacturing defects.
- Best Quality well engineered PLANT fluorescent lamps.
- Compatible with ordinary E40 screw lighting fixture.
FAQS
What is Lumen output of these lamps ?
Though given, it is irrelevent ! Lumens are for Humans not plants ! Lumens measure how we see light. Our eyes prefer green light. Green light has the most Lumens, Red and Blue the least. Most fluorescent lamps are made to look bright for humans by adding huge spikes of greeny yellow light.
Lumens only measure how BRIGHT the light appears to us.
Lumens cannot measure light useful to plants - PUR
*What is the Kelvin colour temperature of these lamps ?
The Red and Blue lamps DO have a Kelvin colour specification, but the PURple™ does not.
The Kelvin color simply describes to which temperature a block of Carbon must be heated in order to match the apparent colour of the lamp.
It does not measure the Quantity OR Quality of the light for growing plants.
PURple™ does not appear in the Kelvin scale as it is a mix of TWO colours.
What is the CRI ?
CRI allows comparison between different lamps ability to render color, It measures how much the Red and Green and Blue reflected light, looks RIGHT to our eyes.
It does not measure the Quantity or Quality of light useful to plants - PUR
Color rating- Measured in Kelvin (K). The higher the number, the more bluish the light. 4000K-7000K is mostly on the blue side of the spectrum, while 3000K and under goes from a white spectrum, to a redder spectrum.
How much light is needed?
The minimum amount of light required by marijuana plants is around 3000 lumens per square foot. However, it's not 100% accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and reflectivity of the grow box. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens/sqft, and as long as the plants do not burn, as much light can be used as you want.
(*note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens/sqft, on a sunny summer day).
Determining lumens for your grow area:
Determine the square footage of your area (example in a 4 foot by 4 foot area, there is 16 square feet)
If you have a 1000 watt High Pressure Sodium, that produces (approx.) 107,000 lumens.
Divide this by 16 (your square footage) 107,000 / 16 = 6687 lumens per square foot.
So just divide the total amount of Lumens, by the total amount of Sq ft, and thats your lumens per square foot.
How far away from my plants do the lights go?
The lights in your grow room should be as close as possible to the plants without burning them. There is no such thing as too much, unless there is sufficient heat to dry out and burn the leaves. A good rule is to put your hand under the light, if its too hot for your hand, chances are that the plants will be too, so move the light up until your hand feels more comfortable. For seedlings and clones, I keep them a little further away from the light, because they are very susceptible to burning and drying out, at these stages.
Efficiency is very important when choosing a type of light. The wattage is not the most important thing, as you can see below, different types of light produce different amounts of lumens per watt. A 300 watt incandescent will produce about 5100 lumens. While a 300 watt Metal Halide (just an example, they do not come in 300 watts), will produce 27,000 lumens. Obviously far more efficient for growing, while still using the same amount of electricity.
Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt
Incandescent lights: Incandescents are the most popular type of lights in the world. They may come advertised as incandescent, tungsten, quartz, halogen, or simply standard. The important thing about incandescents is this: they suck.
There are some incandescents which are sold as 'grow lights.' They usually have a blue coating and usually come in 60W and 120W sizes. While they may seem like a good choice to new growers, they are next to useless; they produce some light at a usable spectrum, but only have about a 5% efficiency and generate more heat than usable light. Most of us have these in our homes right now. Don't use them for growing, instead opt for a Compact Fluorescent as a cheaper but more efficient alternative.
Fluorescent lights: Fluorescents are a lot more useful than incandescents. Their efficient enough, and cheaper than HID lights. Compact fluorescent tubes are popular with growers because of their good output to size ratio. Compared to standard 4' tubes, compact fluorescent bulbs are smaller, and more can fit into a given area. Fluorescents are good for small grows on a tight budget, and for novice growers, since they do not require any special sort of wiring or understanding of the necessary bulbs for a given fixture, and are very widely available.
Fluorescent lights come in many different Kelvin ratings; often the spectrums are labeled on packaging as being 'cool white' or 'warm white.' Cool white is more blue, and is good for the vegetative stages of growth, and warm white light is more orange or reddish, and is best for the flowering stage.
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Systems:
Mercury Vapor (MV)
Mercury vapor lights are not the most efficient light for growing free online movies[/url]. They are very bright, and relatively cheap. They do emit light at the wavelengths necessary to support your plants growth, but not nearly as good as a MH or Hps light. Much of the light emitted by MV lights is bluish-white. Street lighting is what most MV lighting is used for.
Metal Halide (MH)
Metal halide lighting systems are optimal for use in the vegetative phase of growing. They emit mostly blue light, which encourages vigorous growth of foliage. They are very efficient, but can get rather expensive to start with; fluorescents may seem more appealing because of their lower price, and they are not much different when compared on a lumen-to-lumen cost level. These lights can be used through-out the grow, but will most likely result in light, fluffy buds.
High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
High pressure sodium lights emit mostly orange, yellow, and red spectrum light, which is perfect for the flowering stage of the plants growth. They are (in my opinion) the most efficient type of light available for any application. HPS lights can be used through-out the entire grow. They produce more dense and usually larger buds than any other light.
HPS lights are generally a little more expensive than MH systems of similar wattage. They are more commonly used by experienced growers because of their ability to produce tighter buds, higher lumen-output-per-watt, and will produce from start to finish.
I'll also add this graph below, i hope this post helps some of you out.
Color rating- Measured in Kelvin (K). The higher the number, the more bluish the light. 4000K-7000K is mostly on the blue side of the spectrum, while 3000K and under goes from a white spectrum, to a redder spectrum.
How much light is needed?
The minimum amount of light required by marijuana plants is around 3000 lumens per square foot. However, it's not 100% accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and reflectivity of the grow box. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens/sqft, and as long as the plants do not burn, as much light can be used as you want.
(*note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens/sqft, on a sunny summer day).
Determining lumens for your grow area:
Determine the square footage of your area (example in a 4 foot by 4 foot area, there is 16 square feet)
If you have a 1000 watt High Pressure Sodium, that produces (approx.) 107,000 lumens.
Divide this by 16 (your square footage) 107,000 / 16 = 6687 lumens per square foot.
So just divide the total amount of Lumens, by the total amount of Sq ft, and thats your lumens per square foot.
How far away from my plants do the lights go?
The lights in your grow room should be as close as possible to the plants without burning them. There is no such thing as too much, unless there is sufficient heat to dry out and burn the leaves. A good rule is to put your hand under the light, if its too hot for your hand, chances are that the plants will be too, so move the light up until your hand feels more comfortable. For seedlings and clones, I keep them a little further away from the light, because they are very susceptible to burning and drying out, at these stages.
Efficiency is very important when choosing a type of light. The wattage is not the most important thing, as you can see below, different types of light produce different amounts of lumens per watt. A 300 watt incandescent will produce about 5100 lumens. While a 300 watt Metal Halide (just an example, they do not come in 300 watts), will produce 27,000 lumens. Obviously far more efficient for growing, while still using the same amount of electricity.
Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt
Incandescent lights: Incandescents are the most popular type of lights in the world. They may come advertised as incandescent, tungsten, quartz, halogen, or simply standard. The important thing about incandescents is this: they suck.
There are some incandescents which are sold as 'grow lights.' They usually have a blue coating and usually come in 60W and 120W sizes. While they may seem like a good choice to new growers, they are next to useless; they produce some light at a usable spectrum, but only have about a 5% efficiency and generate more heat than usable light. Most of us have these in our homes right now. Don't use them for growing, instead opt for a Compact Fluorescent as a cheaper but more efficient alternative.
Fluorescent lights: Fluorescents are a lot more useful than incandescents. Their efficient enough, and cheaper than HID lights. Compact fluorescent tubes are popular with growers because of their good output to size ratio. Compared to standard 4' tubes, compact fluorescent bulbs are smaller, and more can fit into a given area. Fluorescents are good for small grows on a tight budget, and for novice growers, since they do not require any special sort of wiring or understanding of the necessary bulbs for a given fixture, and are very widely available.
Fluorescent lights come in many different Kelvin ratings; often the spectrums are labeled on packaging as being 'cool white' or 'warm white.' Cool white is more blue, and is good for the vegetative stages of growth, and warm white light is more orange or reddish, and is best for the flowering stage.
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Systems:
Mercury Vapor (MV)
Mercury vapor lights are not the most efficient light for growing. They are very bright, and relatively cheap. They do emit light at the wavelengths necessary to support your plants growth, but not nearly as good as a MH or Hps light. Much of the light emitted by MV lights is bluish-white. Street lighting is what most MV lighting is used for.
Metal Halide (MH)
Metal halide lighting systems are optimal for use in the vegetative phase of growing. They emit mostly blue light, which encourages vigorous growth of foliage. They are very efficient, but can get rather expensive to start with; fluorescents may seem more appealing because of their lower price, and they are not much different when compared on a lumen-to-lumen cost level. These lights can be used through-out the grow, but will most likely result in light, fluffy buds.
High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
High pressure sodium lights emit mostly orange, yellow, and red spectrum light, which is perfect for the flowering stage of the plants growth. They are (in my opinion) the most efficient type of light available for any application. HPS lights can be used through-out the entire grow. They produce more dense and usually larger buds than any other light.
HPS lights are generally a little more expensive than MH systems of similar wattage. They are more commonly used by experienced growers because of their ability to produce tighter buds, higher lumen-output-per-watt, and will produce from start to finish.
I'll also add this graph below, i hope this post helps some of you out.
Since you've let everyone on this board know you are a thief,
