Things to Know About Lighting

Lacy

New Member
Absolutely tahoe. I agree with you. It is sometimes difficult to get objective opinions here at times because you have those growing for profit and those growing for personal. It took me a while to distinquish the two and what intentions were behind some people's motivation but now I keep this fact in mind when inquiring.

When i was first introduced to this idea of having the dual system, my initial thought was that it produced less lumens so how could it be better. I'm starting to understand more each day.
My poor plants are like :cuss::cuss::cuss:"helloooooooo..we need ore lihgt in here. The system I bought last night is by sun systems not sun beam. i made it sound like a hair dryer.:?

this search for the "perfect" analog for natural sunlight is really interesting and I believe we are still not really there. the fundamental objective of the indoor growers has been yeild and speed, and not necessarily quality. that does not mean indoor stuff is crap...it just means that if you talk to oldtimers...ok, yea I'm one, the indoor weed pales in comparison to the excellent outdoor weed we had in the 70's. then add the physics of light and a couple of other principles and you start to see where the shortfall might be coming from. integral with this discussion is the debate over the "pupose" and evolution of the trichome. this has helps us better understand the how and whys? I am one that is going to try the UV thing once I get myself better organized. I also like the idea of the double HPS/MH bulb. So in my case and for my space (currently a 400W super HPS), I will be looking to put in 2 x 250W (HPS and MH) or theere is also a single dual bulb (400W or 600W) and I will likely also add the UV (either 160W or 300W).

For whatever reason, it still just is not that simple. I was looking at a bulb called the SloarMax (1000W)...and yet when you talk to other growers they say the ones they have been using are better. But it really does come down to what ur objective is. In my case, I obviously want a decent yeild, and I don't want to wait forever for it.....but my prime objective is quality of smoke.

Good luck Lacy....:blsmoke:
 

Leijababe

Active Member
ok so this is all the greatest information i have read in years, but can you tell me how many hours of light the plants need. and if you had any explaination of veg stage. i know what flowering is. and how to make a mother from a plant. anything like that would be so great. thanks so much

Color rating- Measured in Kelvin (K). The higher the number, the more bluish the light. 4000K-7000K is mostly on the blue side of the spectrum, while 3000K and under goes from a white spectrum, to a redder spectrum.

How much light is needed?
The minimum amount of light required by marijuana plants is around 3000 lumens per square foot. However, it's not 100% accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and reflectivity of the grow box. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens/sqft, and as long as the plants do not burn, as much light can be used as you want.
(*note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens/sqft, on a sunny summer day).

Determining lumens for your grow area:
Determine the square footage of your area (example in a 4 foot by 4 foot area, there is 16 square feet)
If you have a 1000 watt High Pressure Sodium, that produces (approx.) 107,000 lumens.
Divide this by 16 (your square footage) 107,000 / 16 = 6687 lumens per square foot.
So just divide the total amount of Lumens, by the total amount of Sq ft, and thats your lumens per square foot.

How far away from my plants do the lights go?
The lights in your grow room should be as close as possible to the plants without burning them. There is no such thing as too much, unless there is sufficient heat to dry out and burn the leaves. A good rule is to put your hand under the light, if its too hot for your hand, chances are that the plants will be too, so move the light up until your hand feels more comfortable. For seedlings and clones, I keep them a little further away from the light, because they are very susceptible to burning and drying out, at these stages.

Efficiency is very important when choosing a type of light. The wattage is not the most important thing, as you can see below, different types of light produce different amounts of lumens per watt. A 300 watt incandescent will produce about 5100 lumens. While a 300 watt Metal Halide (just an example, they do not come in 300 watts), will produce 27,000 lumens. Obviously far more efficient for growing, while still using the same amount of electricity.

Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt

Incandescent lights: Incandescents are the most popular type of lights in the world. They may come advertised as incandescent, tungsten, quartz, halogen, or simply standard. The important thing about incandescents is this: they suck.
There are some incandescents which are sold as 'grow lights.' They usually have a blue coating and usually come in 60W and 120W sizes. While they may seem like a good choice to new growers, they are next to useless; they produce some light at a usable spectrum, but only have about a 5% efficiency and generate more heat than usable light. Most of us have these in our homes right now. Don't use them for growing, instead opt for a Compact Fluorescent as a cheaper but more efficient alternative.

Fluorescent lights: Fluorescents are a lot more useful than incandescents. Their efficient enough, and cheaper than HID lights. Compact fluorescent tubes are popular with growers because of their good output to size ratio. Compared to standard 4' tubes, compact fluorescent bulbs are smaller, and more can fit into a given area. Fluorescents are good for small grows on a tight budget, and for novice growers, since they do not require any special sort of wiring or understanding of the necessary bulbs for a given fixture, and are very widely available.
Fluorescent lights come in many different Kelvin ratings; often the spectrums are labeled on packaging as being 'cool white' or 'warm white.' Cool white is more blue, and is good for the vegetative stages of growth, and warm white light is more orange or reddish, and is best for the flowering stage.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Systems:

Mercury Vapor (MV)
Mercury vapor lights are not the most efficient light for growing. They are very bright, and relatively cheap. They do emit light at the wavelengths necessary to support your plants growth, but not nearly as good as a MH or Hps light. Much of the light emitted by MV lights is bluish-white. Street lighting is what most MV lighting is used for.

Metal Halide (MH)
Metal halide lighting systems are optimal for use in the vegetative phase of growing. They emit mostly blue light, which encourages vigorous growth of foliage. They are very efficient, but can get rather expensive to start with; fluorescents may seem more appealing because of their lower price, and they are not much different when compared on a lumen-to-lumen cost level. These lights can be used through-out the grow, but will most likely result in light, fluffy buds.

High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
High pressure sodium lights emit mostly orange, yellow, and red spectrum light, which is perfect for the flowering stage of the plants growth. They are (in my opinion) the most efficient type of light available for any application. HPS lights can be used through-out the entire grow. They produce more dense and usually larger buds than any other light.
HPS lights are generally a little more expensive than MH systems of similar wattage. They are more commonly used by experienced growers because of their ability to produce tighter buds, higher lumen-output-per-watt, and will produce from start to finish.

I'll also add this graph below, i hope this post helps some of you out.

:leaf:
 

Lacy

New Member
My sun system 1000 swtchable MH/hps fell through. It was going to cost buddy $200 to ship it and he made a mistake when placing the ad and it quoted my only $16. I just can'y afford to pay $200 in shipping. I could buy a brand new one for that price combined.

Now I am looking at a 400 watt system for very little and it isn't very far away to drive. I'm calling them tomorrow to see about getting it.
I'm wondering if getting a 400 watt hps and a 400 watt MH and running them together would be close to getting a dual ballast system.

Does anyone know? That is what I am thinking now. And at least if I get them separately, then later if I want 2 grows rooms I won't have to get more wattage.

I have my 100 sun system coming this week so that will put my up to close to 300 watts of light. They are not looking too bad now.

Thanks everyone :)
 

Mikezxcvbnm

Active Member
I have a general question about yield. If I take 10 clones of AK-47 and veg. for 4 weeks with a 600 watt Metal Halide before flowering roughly how much finished product will I get. BTW I'm flowering with either a 500 or 750 HPS. What about 6 weeks ? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated
 

Puffs

Well-Known Member
I've been reading alot but, I'm still confuzed... What would be the best light for veging and the best for flowering?
 

kagenical

Well-Known Member
I've been reading alot but, I'm still confuzed... What would be the best light for veging and the best for flowering?
Technically, a Metal Halide (at least 50w per plant, more if you can deal with the heat) for vegging, and a HPS for flowering (same wattage recommendation)... But a HPS works for both really.
 

justsmoked

Well-Known Member
Technically, a Metal Halide (at least 50w per plant, more if you can deal with the heat) for vegging, and a HPS for flowering (same wattage recommendation)... But a HPS works for both really.
ive been growing these with 650w hps through the whole grow...gonna start transition soon. i also got a florescent on the side.
 

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PKNL

Well-Known Member
just a simple question from what ive read and heard and experienced, a MV lamp is more efficent for lighting plants keeping the node short encuraging vegitive growth times 5 then floros ive used floros HPS and MV small town here no MH so i cant judge on that one but my question is what if any are the downsides of useing MV for veg stage,PS only on fairly mature plants no clones/seedlings
 

PKNL

Well-Known Member
i got 3 plants under 3 70watt HPS . HPS is the way to go for flowering all the wayits been exactly 16 days since i started this batch and already i have nice bud formation, ive also been useing a high P low N medium K formula , i was looking over the earlyer posts about UVB and UV producing higher resin production and all , as to my preveous post the MV put out the UV so i will have further info on that after this first set is finished
 

BizarroOH!

Well-Known Member
what do you guys think of using a 400 watt MH as well as a 400 watt HPS for flowering someone told me that the duel lighting was good for budding, what you you think?
 

melushell

Active Member
led are not good at all for growin bud
you have any experience with that??? or you just 'know'??


LED Grow Lights.com Home Page
i am looking a lot lately into it, tough i still need to find relevant facts about the flowering stage
honestly i think it will be the future of artificial growing, NASA is already putting a lot of research into it

LED and aerogrow.....thats the future myfriends:hump:
 

evon610

Active Member
I'm waiting on a 150W LED array (14Wx11) which should replace my 400W HPS with much less heat. Check out homegrownlights.com. their kits are a god deal - keeps high brightness and intensity by not spreading the LEDs out over a large area.
 

COD4

Well-Known Member
I have a Q I'm on my first plant I have one 150 watt givin me 2700 lumens my plants only a week an a half old

How long will this work HELP

Unless you're doing one of those SOG setups, you will want to seperate those two plants before they get roots tied up.

And is that a warm white light or a day light? Looks kinda like warm white...
 
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