Things You found Out on your own

GroErr

GroErr

Well-Known Member
1) I've learned that the pursuit of growing that perfect specimen is an obsession...
2) I've learned that the perfect specimen doesn't really exist, there's always room for improvement…
3) I've learned to deal with 1) and 2), by sampling *almost* perfect specimens…
4) I've learned that 1-3 go in a loop, so in reality, I've learned nothing at all…

Mostly, I've learned that 1-4 don't matter because this shit is too much fun :)
 
burgertime2010

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
The plants respond to my certainty of success....staying strong and calm helps. Saving money is an art in itself. Light should be increased at the last 2 weeks to increase density and yield. Genetics are the biggest contributing factor. The focus of any good grower are the health of his mothers and veg....a strong start is everything. Coco 50% rockwool mini-cubes 25% and perlite 25% works great for ebb and flow. I love Silica.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Or was it fixed then break it. Oh heck I forgot.

Seriously, I learned the biggest problems experienced by new growers are over feeding, over watering, over heating and under lighting.

pH DOES matter.

there is no substitute for good genetics.

Clean grows are easier to keep pest free.

And for fucks sake people keep the shedding pets OUT of room and change clothes if hairy. I know, I have dogs. LoL
 
zeerocool

zeerocool

Well-Known Member
1. High pressure aero is easy. Easier than soil IMO.
2. T8s work just fine for veg cost less, use less energy and no excess heat to cool.

3. Hang drying the whole plant with most the leave on results in a much better aroma.
4. Trimming pounds by yourself sucks ass.
5. Never go more than about 12 hours with out checking your grow. Equipment failures can be devastating if not caught in time.
 
S

stonedu

Well-Known Member
Log everything
change only 1 thing at a time
pH meters can fail and give you very wrong readings
when things go right growing is fun, when things go wrong growing is stressful.
 
guardogz

guardogz

Member
well my latest learning exp/mistake is that hps lights need to be much farther away from the plants than induction and t-5 s. i had an auto that was flowering and went from the induction to 600w hps. thought it would really finish strong but did nt. so after 2 weeks the yellow leaves started to show...easy fix tho...hope the plant can recover.
 
AimAim

AimAim

Well-Known Member
Don't believe 90% of the bullshit you read on any website, this one included. Most advice is offered up by teenagers, whose Mothers would be shocked to know the fruit of their womb knows the least bit of shit about growing any type of plant.
 
TonightYou

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
guardogz said:
well my latest learning exp/mistake is that hps lights need to be much farther away from the plants than induction and t-5 s. i had an auto that was flowering and went from the induction to 600w hps. thought it would really finish strong but did nt. so after 2 weeks the yellow leaves started to show...easy fix tho...hope the plant can recover.
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So just to make sure I'm hearing you right, you updated to hps from floros and in two weeks your leaves yellowed. Your takeaway was put your light further away. That was the lesson you learned?
 
guardogz

guardogz

Member
yes tonight. moved the light away and turned it down for awhile. leaves r still yellow, buds and new growth r looking better. first time w hps.
 
crazyhazey

crazyhazey

Well-Known Member
burgertime2010 said:
Side light for the last 10 days of flower kills popcorn, gives density, and bigger yield.
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or scrog/LST until all nodes are equally exposed during flower. or the more common method of cutting off the top buds first and letting the bottom run longer(id rather dry it all together though).
 
TonightYou

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
guardogz said:
yes tonight. moved the light away and turned it down for awhile. leaves r still yellow, buds and new growth r looking better. first time w hps.
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It was sounding more like a nitrogen deficiency is why I posed my question. Light bleaching creates more of a white/yellow spots from being too close.

I take it you've fertilized since moving the light, you got pics? Don't misattribute one thing for another is all.
 
guardogz

guardogz

Member
TonightYou said:
It was sounding more like a nitrogen deficiency is why I posed my question. Light bleaching creates more of a white/yellow spots from being too close.

I take it you've fertilized since moving the light, you got pics? Don't misattribute one thing for another is all.
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well i m about 10 days from potential harvest so they could b hurting from low nitro, or lockout. but since i dried out the the 2 nugs closest to the light, and the bleached out leaf is .5" below that... growin in the revs soil, the plant has had slight nute burn all along. terrific strong growth or would ve flushed more. some top dressings of fresh soil and worm castings. bout 10 days into flowering. banana tea is the last application. gonna use a lighter version of that soil next time. thanks for the input, i need all the help i can get.
 
TonightYou

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
guardogz said:
well i m about 10 days from potential harvest so they could b hurting from low nitro, or lockout. but since i dried out the the 2 nugs closest to the light, and the bleached out leaf is .5" below that... growin in the revs soil, the plant has had slight nute burn all along. terrific strong growth or would ve flushed more. some top dressings of fresh soil and worm castings. bout 10 days into flowering. banana tea is the last application. gonna use a lighter version of that soil next time. thanks for the input, i need all the help i can get.
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No worries mate, just didn't want you to maybe mistake one thing for another. No disrespect. Pictures always help. I veg and clone and put directly into hps with zero problems. So that's why I mention perhaps a N deficiency was taking place.
 
guardogz

guardogz

Member
scroga i moved the circ fan rt next to the plant so she s getting better air flow. and due to the discussion to a closer look towards the bottom of plant. she s defn using up the nitrogen. but i m ok w that for now as its close to harvest. her companion plant is still a dark green, so i ll have to compare the two. ur comments provide direction, and are appreciated :hump:
 
GreenSanta

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
del66666 said:
i found out thast 12-12 from seed rocks...............
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Thanks Del, this 12/12 from seed shit really sped up the learning process for me. It helped me grow so many strains and really learn what I like best and what work best in my growing conditions, I always have a few 12/12 from seed plants kicking around in my garden.

I found on my own that LEDs can grow AMAZING big hard frosty nugs, dont care what people say, swing by my thread if you dont believe me.

I found on my own that big containers = big buds, even if the information is out, I found that one on my own, for those of you wanting to try 12/12 fs in soil, transplant your seedlings into big containers, they will have plenty of time to develop a decent root system before budding.

Thanks for the thread OP.
Cheers
 
burgertime2010

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
crazyhazey said:
or scrog/LST until all nodes are equally exposed during flower. or the more common method of cutting off the top buds first and letting the bottom run longer(id rather dry it all together though).
Click to expand...
I do training extensively and it gets to a point where access is limited because of the dense canopy and massive volume of flowers.....I had the options to cut the tops but also had room to use a side light.
 
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