This can't be nutes burn..

miccyj

Well-Known Member
I would say start supplementing with calmag, but remember, with calmag problems, they dont stop straight away, they usually get worse before the nutes do their thing, start off at 1/2 strength and if it's still getting worse in 3-5 days, you can up the dose alittle more, but I never go full strength.

What size pots you growing in?
 
Yeah but they just ate few days ago right after I transplanted them into 5 gallon pots I wanted to flower in about a week but don't think that's possible now

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I was also thinking if using sensizyme to break down the salt build up in my roots cause of ff

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Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
Magnesium deficient. Doubt its from lockout though. If the pH where off that much then the plant would be exhibiting other signs also, not just a single issue. Foilar spray the plant with a solution of 1 tsp Epsom salts per qt of water. <quick fix You can add 1/4 tsp per gallon of water when you feed.,<long term solution.
 
Sounds good thanks a lot .. Specific Epsom salt to use? Liquid or doesn't matter and will calmag fix the problem also?

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Sand4x105

Well-Known Member
WTF????

That leaf is no way a young leaf....
What does a leaf from the top/upper new part of your plant look like?
If it's green... why are you looking for a problem?
Do you need attention?
Post a pic of the whole plant...
I would advise against doing anything....
You grow in soil....
Ph checking is a waste of time with soil....
Unless the person wants to sell you a PH checker, then it's not a waste of time, it's a sales gimmic....

If someone says: "What is the run off PH of soil?"
Run away... as fast as you can....
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
Sounds good thanks a lot .. Specific Epsom salt to use? Liquid or doesn't matter and will calmag fix the problem also?

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CalMag in your feedings will do just fine. I dont like to use it as a foilar spray though. I would just use the Epsom salts for that. Its the stuff you get at the pharmacy off the shelf to soak your feet in.
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
WE need a picture of the entire plant... a singe leaf is hard to judge..

By the looks of it, you have the leaf nice and green, and the damage is done from nutrient burn....

From the looks of that leaf, you're over nuting, and are doing so in a SOIL that doesn't need nutrients YET, which is causing the burn.
 

BigTexan

Well-Known Member
If you make your own water distillery which isnt that hard to can get rid of almost everythign in the water and you ph will should be close. mine is anyways after my water sits for 24 hours i only have to use a smidgen of PH up and boom perfect water. also dont PHout before you add your nutes i dont PH out my water until my nutes are in which is an entirely different story some nutes should balance out ph but mine dont. mine decrease the PH by a lot. so i use a concentrated PH up and a few drops can move it by a lot.
 
It was a very light feeding .. I flushed em about a week before feeding them cause if nute burn

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Bugeye

Well-Known Member
Get a TDS pen and know your ppm if you are going to go with so many products. Best advice I can give you.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
FFOF is sphagnum peat base. Peat is very acidic, including FFOF. Your problem most likely starts there. Cal/Mg is a good idea for this run, but in the future you should consider amending your soil with a liming agent like dolomite lime or oyster shell flour. You can also cut the peat with some coco coir. I do 1/2 peat 1/2 coco coir and I love the results. Peat by itself sucks IMO.
 
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