Pepe le skunk
Well-Known Member
Thrips are tiny, slender insects with fringed wings. The babies don't have wings but as they mature some will develop wings but not all. Other common names for thrips include thunderflies, thunderbugs, storm flies, thunderblights, and corn lice. Thrips species feed on a large variety of sources, both plant and animal, by puncturing them and sucking up the contents. And the bad news is they can bite you and feed off of you. Ever get a little pin prick on your skin and be like what they hell just bit me? Could be Thrips.
Here are what leaves look like that have thrip damage. Image 1.
Browning dying leaves that begin to curl is a very good sign but especially the dying areas lacking green clorophyl is a dead givaway. They almost look like little spots or strips on the leaf surface. This is the juveniles sucking the juices out of the leaf and stems. They seem to like the center areas on the leaf where sap/ liquid pump through the leaf. Often, their signs of damage, (leaves infested with thrips will appear brown or a mottled silver and dried rather than wilted) are more evident than sight of the thrips themselves. Studies have shown that dry plants, or plants lacking sufficient moisture are most likely to suffer attack by thrips.
First Sign: Leaf surfaces finely speckled with yellow spots. Later, a silvery metallic looking sheen may cover leaf surfaces. Not all Thrips create this sheen.
Leaves darken on the edge.
Edges appear brown in color (necrosis).
Leaves have brown spots on them.
These will be most visible on the underside of the leaves.
Leaves have white spots on them.
Most Thrips move down into soil, rockwool or other synthetic growing media to pupate. This is the first stage at which to control Thrip populations, using Predator Nematodes. Often after two months, regular application of Nematodes alone gives good control. However, for heavy or persistent infestations, we recommend using Nematodes in conjunction with above-ground controls.
Thrips are generally tiny, really tiny as juveniles (1 mm long or less as adults) and are not good flyers. They are really tiny and it is very hard to see the babies. You can only see them under good magnification. Images 2-5.
This little bugger was not even a 1/16th millimeter in size and almost look like tiny mites but are white. Sometimes you can see very tiny white things flying around and if you do I recommend you treat for them with a spray and the soil immediatly.
The adults I have seen are brown in color. See the last 2 images for what the adults look like.
Spray the leaves and drench the soil at least every 3 days for 5 treatments total if you want to get rid of them. A product that contains Spinosad will control and kill them. In addition, predatory nematodes control most thrip species and research is ongoing to develop airborne transmission methods for nematodes dispersal. Thrips have been shown to develop resistance to most insecticides used on a regular basis,yet least-toxic options like insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils can aid the gardener with thrip control but won't destroy them. So neem oil will only help control their populations. Soapy water sprays (such as Safers Soap) don't continue to kill off insects after the initial spraying.
If left unchecked they will destroy a crop and worse allow Powdery Mildew to infect the plants because the leaf area has become compromised.
Hope that helps.
Here are what leaves look like that have thrip damage. Image 1.
Browning dying leaves that begin to curl is a very good sign but especially the dying areas lacking green clorophyl is a dead givaway. They almost look like little spots or strips on the leaf surface. This is the juveniles sucking the juices out of the leaf and stems. They seem to like the center areas on the leaf where sap/ liquid pump through the leaf. Often, their signs of damage, (leaves infested with thrips will appear brown or a mottled silver and dried rather than wilted) are more evident than sight of the thrips themselves. Studies have shown that dry plants, or plants lacking sufficient moisture are most likely to suffer attack by thrips.
First Sign: Leaf surfaces finely speckled with yellow spots. Later, a silvery metallic looking sheen may cover leaf surfaces. Not all Thrips create this sheen.
Leaves darken on the edge.
Edges appear brown in color (necrosis).
Leaves have brown spots on them.
These will be most visible on the underside of the leaves.
Leaves have white spots on them.
Most Thrips move down into soil, rockwool or other synthetic growing media to pupate. This is the first stage at which to control Thrip populations, using Predator Nematodes. Often after two months, regular application of Nematodes alone gives good control. However, for heavy or persistent infestations, we recommend using Nematodes in conjunction with above-ground controls.
Thrips are generally tiny, really tiny as juveniles (1 mm long or less as adults) and are not good flyers. They are really tiny and it is very hard to see the babies. You can only see them under good magnification. Images 2-5.
This little bugger was not even a 1/16th millimeter in size and almost look like tiny mites but are white. Sometimes you can see very tiny white things flying around and if you do I recommend you treat for them with a spray and the soil immediatly.
The adults I have seen are brown in color. See the last 2 images for what the adults look like.
Spray the leaves and drench the soil at least every 3 days for 5 treatments total if you want to get rid of them. A product that contains Spinosad will control and kill them. In addition, predatory nematodes control most thrip species and research is ongoing to develop airborne transmission methods for nematodes dispersal. Thrips have been shown to develop resistance to most insecticides used on a regular basis,yet least-toxic options like insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils can aid the gardener with thrip control but won't destroy them. So neem oil will only help control their populations. Soapy water sprays (such as Safers Soap) don't continue to kill off insects after the initial spraying.
If left unchecked they will destroy a crop and worse allow Powdery Mildew to infect the plants because the leaf area has become compromised.
Hope that helps.
