Total Noob here - Advice Appreciated!

That FL Guy

Member
Hi Guys!
First post here, been lurking around the forums for the past few months. I'm a noob with both organic growing, and MJ as well. Will be starting my first grow (indoors) in the beginning of Oct (Hopefully). I would really appreciate some assistance with my soil mix/amendments.
Long story short, being very eager to start, and reading up on a bunch of forums, grow journals, advice, etc...I purchased FF Ocean forest. After reading more, hearing people saying it's too hot, etc, etc...I purchased a bag of Light Warrior to mix it with (50/50 ratio). I also purchased some additional EWC and Perlite to add to the mix.
Then, because for some reason I felt I needed to, I bought several soil amendments to add to the mix (I guess I was trying to create my own version of super soil), because, of course, I'm an expert from reading a bunch of forum posts! LOL
Anyway, here's my current soil mix for my 3 gal smart pot (I made a bit more than needed, mixed in a 5 gallon bucket):

Base (Measurements are approximate):
1.5 Gal FFOF
1.5 Gal FFLW
1/2 Gal Perlite
About 3-4 cups EWC (I didn't really measure the EWC, just really added it until the mix felt right)

In addition, I've added the following soil amendments:
Kelp Meal - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Alfalfa Meal - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Azomite - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Dolomite Lime - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Espoma Tomato Tone - 1.5 cups

I mixed all of the above in a 5 gallon bucket, added water until damp (not wet/moist), turned/mixed very well. The end result looks, feels and smells great. I can cake it up in my hand, but it falls apart without any effort. It seems like it will work well.

My main questions are:
1) I know this probably needs to "cook" for a few weeks, if not longer. What do you guys think is the minimal cook time required?
2) Did I go overboard with the amendments? I realize I probably should have kept it way simpler for my first grow, but, it is what it is.....live and learn.
3) I plan on germinating directly into soil (Autoflower Fem Strain - White Label Northern Lights). Should I "layer" the soil with a base organic soil, or direct sow into my mix?

I still have additional FFOF, LW and EWC on hand (as well as the amendments listed above, etc)

As a side note, I will be growing indoors in a Grow Lab GL60, 300w MarsHydro, Carbon Filter, 4" Inline

Anyway, so sorry for the long first post. I would really appreciate any and all feedback.

Thank you all in advance!!!!!!!
 
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MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Welcome to RIU!

I have been using Espoma Bio-tone, it has the added myc to it. It will take 6to8 weeks to cook. If you were in a hurry, top dress with it. It will burn less... I usually have to use tea to keep the espoma from harming my plants. It is hard to keep the leaves pretty when using espoma, but the tea really works! It is a good combination.
I am not an expert, but not that many people use Espoma on here.

I checked my cooking soil at week 5. It was still burning my hands and dryed out my skin. That is one way to see if your soil is safe lol. It will ruin your cuticles and they will peel. PH is off
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I used FFoF mixed with cheaper soil for flower. It will def get you started. Topdress about 3to4 weeks in with espoma. It should give you time for your soil to age.
I am trying to get away from using espoma soon. My next batch of it is already mixed, so I think that I will use it
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Germinate with light warrior ONLY! You already have it. Get it wet BEFORE you put it in a pot. I put it in a tub and mix it well, seeds might sink to the bottom otherwise!
 

That FL Guy

Member
Hey Mustang, thanks for the input.....
Yea, no cuticle/ dry hand issues here so far! LOL
Haven't even thought of using the espoma in a tea, but that might be a good idea. Its already mixed with my soil, so for this run, I'll prob just see what happens......
I was leaning towards just germinating in LW, then transplanting to my soil mix....just a bit concerned due to the fact that I'm growing an auto.....I've read/heard that they don't really like to be transplanted.
Anyways, thanks for the info!

And as always, any other opinions/input/info appreciated!
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Hey Mustang, thanks for the input.....
Yea, no cuticle/ dry hand issues here so far! LOL
Haven't even thought of using the espoma in a tea, but that might be a good idea. Its already mixed with my soil, so for this run, I'll prob just see what happens......
I was leaning towards just germinating in LW, then transplanting to my soil mix....just a bit concerned due to the fact that I'm growing an auto.....I've read/heard that they don't really like to be transplanted.
Anyways, thanks for the info!

And as always, any other opinions/input/info appreciated!
Autos dont have a veg period, so stunted growth will mean stunted harvest. I ran autos with my first run. I also grew all of the regular freebees under the same light.
I didnt say that I made tea out of espoma, but top dress and add EWC on top and use tea when the leaves start to twist. Tea will straighten it out and give you dark green leaves
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I was using dolomite, then switched to glacial rock dust. I think that I will get oyster or crab next time... These are the PH up for organic. Metals like Magnesium and calcium will give you a positive charge and raise the PH. Took me a while to figure it out

This section seems kind of slow today. There are usually more exp people that can explain it better.
 

That FL Guy

Member
No, its all good, I understand...
That's why I added Dolomite....from what I've read, even though FFOF has oyster shells, the Ph can be a bit unstable (depending on the batch), so better to be on the safe side. Again, I have no personal experience with FFOF or a FFOF/LW mix, just the info I've read off this board and countless others.....:-)
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys!
First post here, been lurking around the forums for the past few months. I'm a noob with both organic growing, and MJ as well. Will be starting my first grow (indoors) in the beginning of Oct (Hopefully). I would really appreciate some assistance with my soil mix/amendments.
Long story short, being very eager to start, and reading up on a bunch of forums, grow journals, advice, etc...I purchased FF Ocean forest. After reading more, hearing people saying it's too hot, etc, etc...I purchased a bag of Light Warrior to mix it with (50/50 ratio). I also purchased some additional EWC and Perlite to add to the mix.
Then, because for some reason I felt I needed to, I bought several soil amendments to add to the mix (I guess I was trying to create my own version of super soil), because, of course, I'm an expert from reading a bunch of forum posts! LOL
Anyway, here's my current soil mix for my 3 gal smart pot (I made a bit more than needed, mixed in a 5 gallon bucket):

Base (Measurements are approximate):
1.5 Gal FFOF
1.5 Gal FFLW
1/2 Gal Perlite
About 3-4 cups EWC (I didn't really measure the EWC, just really added it until the mix felt right)

In addition, I've added the following soil amendments:
Kelp Meal - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Alfalfa Meal - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Azomite - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Dolomite Lime - 1TB/Gal (3 TB)
Espoma Tomato Tone - 1.5 cups

I mixed all of the above in a 5 gallon bucket, added water until damp (not wet/moist), turned/mixed very well. The end result looks, feels and smells great. I can cake it up in my hand, but it falls apart without any effort. It seems like it will work well.

My main questions are:
1) I know this probably needs to "cook" for a few weeks, if not longer. What do you guys think is the minimal cook time required?
2) Did I go overboard with the amendments? I realize I probably should have kept it way simpler for my first grow, but, it is what it is.....live and learn.
3) I plan on germinating directly into soil (Autoflower Fem Strain - White Label Northern Lights). Should I "layer" the soil with a base organic soil, or direct sow into my mix?

I still have additional FFOF, LW and EWC on hand (as well as the amendments listed above, etc)

As a side note, I will be growing indoors in a Grow Lab GL60, 300w MarsHydro, Carbon Filter, 4" Inline

Anyway, so sorry for the long first post. I would really appreciate any and all feedback.

Thank you all in advance!!!!!!!
Ok. You got a solid start here. Lets just go through your ?'s 1st.
1. 3-4 weeks cook time when raw organic material is added. Which is basically all your amendments.
2. You making basically 1/2 cf of soil. My math says you'll be fine on amendments. 3-4cups / cf plus 2-4 cups minerals. / cf. but you ffof has plenty already so I think your good to go. Careful with dolo lime. Not my favorite.
3. Ok. My best advice for you. Do NOT germ I'm this soil! Do yourself a favor and get seed starter plugs or start In a 2 oz bathroom cup of light warrior only. Full the roots them transplant into say a 1/2 g pot, still just plain soil, no need for nutrients yet. Once your plant is established and has many nodes I would ten go into your 3 gallon flowering pot.

So basically don't layer anything, start in small pots and transplant as needed.

Get a "dummy" pot to hold the place for your last transplant. Then your can "cook"your soil right in your final pot, I like give my cooking soil a Ewc tea once. This jump starts the soil food web. And when your adolescent plants hit this soil which hasn't been disturbed! They jump into action!

But long term. I would keep ffof for veg or emergency. And start a super soil. 33%each peat, perlite, Ewc. 4 cups nutrients. 2-4 cups minerals.
Good luck and welcome to organics. Stick to it! It's te only way to grow !
 

That FL Guy

Member
Ok. You got a solid start here. Lets just go through your ?'s 1st.
1. 3-4 weeks cook time when raw organic material is added. Which is basically all your amendments.
2. You making basically 1/2 cf of soil. My math says you'll be fine on amendments. 3-4cups / cf plus 2-4 cups minerals. / cf. but you ffof has plenty already so I think your good to go. Careful with dolo lime. Not my favorite.
3. Ok. My best advice for you. Do NOT germ I'm this soil! Do yourself a favor and get seed starter plugs or start In a 2 oz bathroom cup of light warrior only. Full the roots them transplant into say a 1/2 g pot, still just plain soil, no need for nutrients yet. Once your plant is established and has many nodes I would ten go into your 3 gallon flowering pot.

So basically don't layer anything, start in small pots and transplant as needed.

Get a "dummy" pot to hold the place for your last transplant. Then your can "cook"your soil right in your final pot, I like give my cooking soil a Ewc tea once. This jump starts the soil food web. And when your adolescent plants hit this soil which hasn't been disturbed! They jump into action!

But long term. I would keep ffof for veg or emergency. And start a super soil. 33%each peat, perlite, Ewc. 4 cups nutrients. 2-4 cups minerals.
Good luck and welcome to organics. Stick to it! It's te only way to grow !
Thanks so much for the info, Green!
Well, looks like I'll be starting in the Light Warrior, as suggested.
I have about a weeks cook time on the soil, will def give it at least another 3 as you suggested. I'm eager to get going, but no sense burning a plant if it can be avoided.

And yes, I will definitely sticking with the organic method.....so much info out there, so much to learn!
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Good luck! Best way to learn is jumping in head first. And here's my number one rule of organic gardening. If your ever about to do anything! (Feed, water, transplant, clone et ) just stop and wait a day. Might sound counter intuitive but trust me on this. It give you time to read up, think through what your doing and maybe stop you from making big mistakes. The plant isn't going anywhere. It grows perfectly fine without us-humans interfering a well set up organic grow can potential be watered 2x a week( less for much of grow cycle)And basically ignored. Hit me up with any questions. ! Three are lots of knowledgable awesome people here in organics.

You have a step up over most of us Ex chemicle growers. I always regret not doing soil from day one. Ugh so much headache and wasted$ you wouldn't believe. And than after indoctrinated with bottled nutrient style growing its 10x harder to go back to organics. Anyway. Good luck. Peace
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
No, its all good, I understand...
That's why I added Dolomite....from what I've read, even though FFOF has oyster shells, the Ph can be a bit unstable (depending on the batch), so better to be on the safe side. Again, I have no personal experience with FFOF or a FFOF/LW mix, just the info I've read off this board and countless others.....:-)
what I would do to be safe is "water" down your mix more with the LW.
for that amount of soil and most of it being fortified< i'd be a lil apprehensive using that much nutrients on it, also I believe both mixes are already "limed" so you may have too much dolomite lime.
important to remember it's like making soup, you can ALWAYS add, but NEVER subtract.
A soil mix that is lightly amended will grow cannabis just fine, but a mix that is too rich or hot, and you have stunted plants... and you are growing autos, stunted autos=wasted time/tiny yields. So i'd lean more to the lighter side.
I would add another 2 gallons of the LW, at least.
 

That FL Guy

Member
Good luck! Best way to learn is jumping in head first. And here's my number one rule of organic gardening. If your ever about to do anything! (Feed, water, transplant, clone et ) just stop and wait a day. Might sound counter intuitive but trust me on this. It give you time to read up, think through what your doing and maybe stop you from making big mistakes. The plant isn't going anywhere. It grows perfectly fine without us-humans interfering a well set up organic grow can potential be watered 2x a week( less for much of grow cycle)And basically ignored. Hit me up with any questions. ! Three are lots of knowledgable awesome people here in organics.

You have a step up over most of us Ex chemicle growers. I always regret not doing soil from day one. Ugh so much headache and wasted$ you wouldn't believe. And than after indoctrinated with bottled nutrient style growing its 10x harder to go back to organics. Anyway. Good luck. Peace
Yea, I initially started thinking I was going to do the whole liquid nutes route, but after reading about the organic route, I totally changed my mind. Glad I did. I'm sure it will take alot of time and self education (along with the great info everyone here has provided). But, I think the results will be worth it.

Good advice with the "wait one day" rule.....might have to apply that to some other decisions in my life as well!! LOL

Thanks again for the assistance!
 

That FL Guy

Member
what I would do to be safe is "water" down your mix more with the LW.
for that amount of soil and most of it being fortified< i'd be a lil apprehensive using that much nutrients on it, also I believe both mixes are already "limed" so you may have too much dolomite lime.
important to remember it's like making soup, you can ALWAYS add, but NEVER subtract.
A soil mix that is lightly amended will grow cannabis just fine, but a mix that is too rich or hot, and you have stunted plants... and you are growing autos, stunted autos=wasted time/tiny yields. So i'd lean more to the lighter side.
I would add another 2 gallons of the LW, at least.
Yea, I was afraid I went a bit overboard with my amendments. I do have more LW on hand, so I can definitely add more to lighten up the mix.
I know the ocean Forrest has oyster shells for PH control, but I read a whole bunch of posts from some people claiming the PH was low out of the bag. I really should have just tested the soil PH myself, instead of assuming.....
Typical noob move I guess....lol
;-)
 

That FL Guy

Member
Good luck! Best way to learn is jumping in head first. And here's my number one rule of organic gardening. If your ever about to do anything! (Feed, water, transplant, clone et ) just stop and wait a day. Might sound counter intuitive but trust me on this. It give you time to read up, think through what your doing and maybe stop you from making big mistakes. The plant isn't going anywhere. It grows perfectly fine without us-humans interfering a well set up organic grow can potential be watered 2x a week( less for much of grow cycle)And basically ignored. Hit me up with any questions. ! Three are lots of knowledgable awesome people here in organics.

You have a step up over most of us Ex chemicle growers. I always regret not doing soil from day one. Ugh so much headache and wasted$ you wouldn't believe. And than after indoctrinated with bottled nutrient style growing its 10x harder to go back to organics. Anyway. Good luck. Peace
Another question for ya.....
I have some Black Strap Molasses on had. Would it be wise to add a bit to my soil mix while it cooks? I know it helps feed the beneficial bacteria in the soil, just not sure if I should just hold off until I actually start my grow.
Just a thought......
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Another question for ya.....
I have some Black Strap Molasses on had. Would it be wise to add a bit to my soil mix while it cooks? I know it helps feed the beneficial bacteria in the soil, just not sure if I should just hold off until I actually start my grow.
Just a thought......
I apply bsm but only in a compost tea setting. 1tbsp/g bsm. 1 cup/g Ewc. Sometime kelp meal and alfalfa me in there as well. Bubbled 24-48 hours. Strain and apply. Just dont soak you soil. Little goes along way when no plant there to drink.
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Another question for ya.....
I have some Black Strap Molasses on had. Would it be wise to add a bit to my soil mix while it cooks? I know it helps feed the beneficial bacteria in the soil, just not sure if I should just hold off until I actually start my grow.
Just a thought......
But yes. I apply aact to all my flower pots before plant reaches soil. Sometimes a month ahead if I'm on top of my game. This is what I consider quasi- no till. Give the whole soil food web, especially fungal growth time to explode long before transplant. The difference is notable compared to standard transplanting. And that bsm and Ewc tea jumps starts micro life.
 

That FL Guy

Member
But yes. I apply aact to all my flower pots before plant reaches soil. Sometimes a month ahead if I'm on top of my game. This is what I consider quasi- no till. Give the whole soil food web, especially fungal growth time to explode long before transplant. The difference is notable compared to standard transplanting. And that bsm and Ewc tea jumps starts micro life.
OK cool....thanks again!
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
But yes. I apply aact to all my flower pots before plant reaches soil. Sometimes a month ahead if I'm on top of my game. This is what I consider quasi- no till. Give the whole soil food web, especially fungal growth time to explode long before transplant. The difference is notable compared to standard transplanting. And that bsm and Ewc tea jumps starts micro life.
Fairly replicating what nature does outside over winter. It's leaf mold there and red worms.
 
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