Transplant going horribly wrong. Please help!

I've just been researching and trying to follow everything I can find online. Sometimes that doesn't work out well as in this situation. Lol. But yeah after my first attempts for seeds to grow that never sprouted I've started using a hydrogen peroxide and water dilution 24-hour bath then putting them into pre moistened soil. I use the light warrior/perlite mix 60/40 for the seeds. All eight of my seeds after doing that have sprouted. I also sterilize the soil with hydrogen peroxide. Then everything involving watering comes from a dropper. Usually just pH'd to 6.5ish tap water mixed with a very small dose of microbe brew.
I totally forgot once it's completely dry like I can see how dry it is through the clear cup. I've been bottom watering them through the drain holes in the bottom of the cups to avoid getting the top of the soil soaked. So this is the first time I fully watered from the top and it is not worked out for me.
 

NukaKola

Well-Known Member
see stuff like that is the kind of information that would be nice to be readily available online with pictures. most of the places say as soon as you see the roots trying to come out the bottom holes of the cup that it's needs to be transplanted. On one hand it's sister plant is thriving in the new one gallon pot. Yeah in the solo cups all I've done is water with a dropper pretty much until transplant. It's good to know that they can stay in the cups longer even if their roots are trying to come out the bottom. Cuz I've got four more seedlings that I started about two weeks ago
Plants recover faster after transplanting when they have more established root mass. Your seedlings were barely producing their first set of true leaves when you transplanted which is way too soon. Roots simply coming out of the bottom is not a good indication. The root tips will die off when they start poking out of the bottom and then the lateral roots will grow, similarly to topping a plant. This is called root pruning and the reason many people use fabric pots. Once the root tips reach the edges of the fabric pot they die off encouraging lateral root growth. I only use fabric pots for my final pot though because transplanting out of them is a PITA.
 

NukaKola

Well-Known Member
Your Roots look amazing but I would definitely consider that rootbound. What root products are you using just curious :-).
No root products, straight coco being fed Dyna-Gro Protekt & Foliage Pro in Veg, and Protekt & Bloom in flower. Rootbound isn't really a concern in coco, you just increase the frequency of feed. You can grow monsters in 3 gallons of coco feeding multiple times per day.
 
Plants recover faster after transplanting when they have more established root mass. Your seedlings were barely producing their first set of true leaves when you transplanted which is way too soon. Roots simply coming out of the bottom is not a good indication. The root tips will die off when they start poking out of the bottom and then the lateral roots will grow, similarly to topping a plant. This is called root pruning and the reason many people use fabric pots. Once the root tips reach the edges of the fabric pot they die off encouraging lateral root growth. I only use fabric pots for my final pot though because transplanting out of them is a PITA.
You've been very helpful. I'm not being sarcastic. This is my first grow and I really am interested in all of the advice that anyone can give me on basically everything. I was going to transplant them from the one gallon fabric pots into five gallon fabric pots once they had obviously grown for much longer. would you recommend I would go to a 3 gal from a 1 gal or straight to the 5 gallon final pot? Now that I know how to actually transplant them without water logging them hopefully it'll go smoothly. Still weeks away from that obviously. I'm just going to let it sit in the tent and hopefully it'll dry itself out. It's covered in diatomaceous earth at this point so hopefully it'll dry reasonably quick. Stupid ocean forest and its fungus gnat problem.
 
If I have to water the solo cup every day then I transplant them.
That's a fair and reasonable way to do it. I suppose I didn't think about that. I usually watered everyday with a dropper of about 2-3 ml of pH'd water because the topsoil would always be super dry and crumbly down about an inch but since I was bottom watering every 3-4 days i probably didn't need to do that. How far down is supposed to be dry.
 

NukaKola

Well-Known Member
You've been very helpful. I'm not being sarcastic. This is my first grow and I really am interested in all of the advice that anyone can give me on basically everything. I was going to transplant them from the one gallon fabric pots into five gallon fabric pots once they had obviously grown for much longer. would you recommend I would go to a 3 gal from a 1 gal or straight to the 5 gallon final pot? Now that I know how to actually transplant them without water logging them hopefully it'll go smoothly. Still weeks away from that obviously. I'm just going to let it sit in the tent and hopefully it'll dry itself out. It's covered in diatomaceous earth at this point so hopefully it'll dry reasonably quick. Stupid ocean forest and its fungus gnat problem.
I would go from 1 gallon to 5 gallon but let the plants fill the 1 gallon. The difference from 3 gallon to 5 gallon is negligible, it’s usually a few inches larger in diameter but the same depth. Don’t go by how far down is dry. Lift the pot and go by weight, it’s the most accurate way to measure when to water.
 
I would go from 1 gallon to 5 gallon but let the plants fill the 1 gallon. The difference from 3 gallon to 5 gallon is negligible, it’s usually a few inches larger in diameter but the same depth. Don’t go by how far down is dry. Lift the pot and go by weight, it’s the most accurate way to measure when to water.
I need to buy a bigger scale. I had a small one that worked for the solo cups but kept forgetting to write the weight down when dry. I will start recording better
 
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